Author Archive: Ian Ellery

Ian Ellery is a guest contributor on The Watch Lounge. When he’s not writing about watches he presents his technology radio show in Geneva, collects vintage watches and attends auctions.

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SIHH 2012: Lange & Sohne

| January 17, 2012 | Reply

Lange & Sohne Grande Lange 1

I have always been a big fan of Lange & Sohne, interviewing a previous CEO was one of my first professional watch jobs, so they will always have a special place in my heart. In 2012 our favorite German watch brand is making the most of its Saxony roots with artisan skills going back to the 12th Century.

The Grande Lange 1
There are three new watches for this year; since the reformation of Lange & Sohne in 1994 the Lange 1 has been the lynchpin of the company, therefore making any change was going to be a risk.

Lange & Sohne Grande Lange 1

To retain the key elements of pure elegance of the Grand Lange 1 while at the same time freshening up the overall look required a new movement – the L095.1. This enables the thickness to be reduced to 8mm down from the 11mm of the original. One big internal change is that the twin barrel has been removed and replaced by a single thinner mainspring. The new dial has a larger date window and no overlap of sub-dials results in a clean, open look.

Available in yellow and red gold at 31,000 euros (approx. US$39,600) and platinum for 47,000 euros (approx US$60,000).

The Lange 1 Tourbillon
Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Tourbillon

Next up is the Lange 1 Tourbillon which brings together a series of different complications to create the most sophisticated Lange 1 to date. The most immediate difference between this and almost every other similar watch is that you can’t see the complexity from the front, only the back. This keeps the dial clear for the perpetual calendar; retrograde day at 9 o’clock, moon phase and seconds at seven o’clock, and the leap year indicator at six o’clock. The month ring and all of the calendar elements have to move simultaneously and this requires a lot of power. This is provided by a power reserve that builds up over the course of the month to be released at the stroke of midnight.

Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Tourbillon

On this watch the main sub-dial is on the right indicating an underlying automatic movement, the L082.1.

Available for 240,000 euros (approx. US$307,000) for pink gold and platinum 270,000 euros (approx. US$345,000).

The Datograph
Lange & Sohne Lange Datograph

There are have been many column inches about the new Datograph (including our brief spiel here) but the chance to see one up close is a rare treat. The Datograph Flyback is one of the most beautiful chronograph movements ever made, slightly bigger than previous models at 41mm and 13mm thick, with the bigger indicators as before. An interesting addition is a new power reserve at the six o’clock position, subtle but a welcome addition.

Lange & Sohne Lange Datograph

Available for 69,000 euros (approx. US$88,000).

The Final Word
A strong showing from Lange & Sohne this year, the proportions and finish have been sharpened up, and the whole is much improved, an excellent 2012 selection.

For more information please visit www.alange-soehne.com.

SIHH 2012: Richard Mille

| January 16, 2012 | Reply

Richard Mille RM050 tourbillon split second chronograph Felipe Massa

They may only produce 2,700 watches per year but Richard Mille always manage to put on a show. This year the presentation was in 3D which is a first for me and the added dimension certainly made for an unusual experience.

So, what’s new for 2012?
Well for starters, after spending a number of years in development, the Richard Mille in-house movement CRMA1 is finally available in the RM037. All operations are available through the crown and the various actions can be selected by the pusher and indicated on the dial, winding (W), neutral (N) and seconds (S).

In fact the crown isn’t directly attached to the movement, it is decoupled by a washer and gearing improving the seals and making the crown very easy to detach – important during the repair process.

For the RM050 tourbillon split second chronograph Felipe Massa (pictured at top) they have included the newly designed RMCC1 manual wind movement. While the case shape may be familiar the material is not being a polymer case impregnated with carbon nanotubes giving it huge resistance to stress while at the same time being extremely light.

There is also another version of the Felipe Massa this year called the RM56. Remarkably the case of this piece is made entirely from sapphire. This is extremely difficult from a technical viewpoint as there is no room for error – the material is extremely hard and unyielding and therefore it has no give at all for fitting.

Richard Mille RM056

As you would expect the work is highly specialized and each one takes more than 1,000 hours to produce, meaning that not only will they be extremely expensive but they’ll also be extremely limited. Expect to pay 7 figures if you’re lucky enough to get your hands on one the only 5 to be made.

For those who are looking for something a little more daring, take a look at the RM052. There are many skull watches out there, most have an artistically created dials but not the RM052. Here the skull is the baseplate and the movement hangs off this supported by arms from the corners forming a skull and crossbones motif. The ruby of the tourbillon can be seen through the jaws of the skull and the entire construction is in grade 5 titanium. 21 pieces will be made in total, 15 in titanium and 6 in red or white gold depending on customer preference.

Richard Mille RM052

The Final Word
For a small brand Richard Mille often seems to punch above its weight, the range is beginning to mature and evolve into a truly coherent selection. True they aren’t for everyone, they’re large and masculine, but they are honest, top quality products.

For more please visit www.richardmille.com.

Introducing The New Speake-Marin Spirit – Get One, Now!

| November 10, 2011 | 2 Replies

Speake-Marin Spirit

The Fall is a busy time in the watchmaking world, multiple shows, auctions, Christmas promotions and preparations for the New Year’s SIHH and Baselworld.

It can be difficult to make a big noise when you are an Independent watchmaker but through sheer determination, dedication, and masterful skill, even in these difficult economic times Peter Speake-Marin continues to produce and successfully sell some magnificent watches.

Peter’s first commercial watch, the Piccadilly, used a modified ETA movement, but when Swatch Group decided they no longer wished to sell movements to other makers, Peter decided to make his own. This essentially brought an end to the Piccadilly but launched the highly successful Marin range.

Due to the cost of development and the low volume nature of these new watches prices had to rise above the approximate 12k CHF entry price of the Piccadilly, but Peter always held on to the idea of making his watches available to a wider audience; compromises might be needed but he knew he could do it.

The new Speake-Marin “Spirit” achieves this and so much more, everything we have come to expect from a Speake-Marin is here; readable dial, strong lines and the “topping tool” logo. There are a few changes from the original Piccadilly; the hands are filled with Super LumiNova rather than blue steel, the dial is now beautifully screen printed rather than enamel, but the case is essentially the same and that’s a good thing.

As with the original Piccadilly an ETA 2422 movement has been used but is significantly altered with new German silver parts lifting it above the commonplace. Every change is made with Peter’s core values that should ensure it lasts several lifetimes.

Speake-Marin Spirit

The back of the case has the familiar, small sapphire window showing the signature “topping tool” German silver rotor. However, the markings on the back are considerably different, much more like the Marin 2, but the biggest difference is a new motto along the bottom inside edge “Fight, Love & Persevere” something perhaps to which we all should aspire.

Especially worthy of mention is the strap, this is strong, bold statement, a warm brown with contrasting white stitching and much thicker than normal. It has been available as a special order on Peter’s other watches but nice to see as the default offering here.

With a retail price of 9800CHF and a limited production run of 68 this is a serious Independent watch at an affordable price, if you have been thinking about buying one of Peter’s watches now might be a good time. Expect sales to be brisk, probably best not to wait too long to decide.

For more visit www.speake-marin.com.

Editor’s Note: For those who would like to hear more from Speake-Marin himself, Daniel Katz – the host of DanTown – will be interviewing him via Skype on November 14th at 12:30pm (EST) on www.thatchannel.com.

On The Wrist Review – Marvin Sebastien Loeb Special Edition Chronograph

| August 11, 2011 | 2 Replies

Marvin Sebastien Loeb Special Edition Chronograph

A few weeks ago I wrote an ‘on the wrist review’ of the Clerc Hydroscaph and so it seemed like a good idea to follow it up with a watch I have been looking forward to trying for some considerable time, Marvin Watches’ Sebastien Loeb Special Edition Chronograph.

Marvin has a complete range of watches at a range of price points offering both quartz and mechanical movements. It should therefore be possible to find something in the line-up to suit everyone’s tastes, but as I had a choice I went for the top of the range. Limited to 777 examples it is still only 3030CHF and offers a lot of watch for your money.

As befits a World Rally Champion this watch has a solid, strong look; black with red and white accents. Ergonomically everything is where you need it to be, the screw down crown has three functions, wind, Day and Date adjustments, and I am pleased to say that the size of the crown is large enough to manage the adjustment without rubbing against your wrist. There seems to be a trend developing for small, thin crowns, nicely vintage but sharp on the fingers.

Marvin Sebastien Loeb Special Edition Chronograph

The case is a nice mix of cut edges and smooth inner curves which gives it a slightly aggressive look, but not over the top. This balanced design extends to the red and black color scheme; you know this watch means business but it doesn’t shout at you and for some companies that is a difficult trick to pull off.

There are some very nice touches, between the case and the main strap, with a nod to Seb Loeb’s rally car, are four red springs, imitating shock absorbers and the springs really work. On the side the Chronograph buttons are fashioned as rally car pedals and are well done, a good firm “click” tells you that the function has been activated.

The weight is very good, not too heavy but nice and chunky. Readability is high and there is a good level of contrast between the hands and dial. A welcome addition is the inclusion of Superluminova making night time reading very easy.

I sometimes think straps are a neglected part of a watch, get it wrong and you will quickly tire of your new purchase. Luckily here the rubber strap is a quality item and along with a PVD coated buckle gives a nice snug fit.

Marvin Sebastien Loeb Special Edition Chronograph

One thing that Marvin is known for is having great presentation boxes and the Seb Loeb is no exception. The outer box in black with a chequered flag motif around it makes way for a black curved inner box with commemorative plate and the watch itself. This box puts all others at this price point to shame and many others costing considerably more.

This is a very easy watch to wear and from my experience will attract a fair number of positive comments.

The Final Word
Most people will never be able to afford a high priced exotic watch, what is needed is a well made watch at an affordable price; enter Marvin. The range is wide enough so that you should be able to find something you like, at a price point you would be happy with.

Marvin takes social media very seriously and its website is excellent, all of the information you need is available directly and if you don’t have a Marvin reseller nearby, all models are available from their online store.

To see the model I tested go to:

http://shop.marvinwatches.com/collection/loeb-special-edition/mechanical/m121/m121-13-44-94.html

On The Wrist Review: Clerc Hydroscaph

| June 28, 2011 | 5 Replies

Clerc Hyrdoscaph

Last year a fascinating and at times feisty exchange took place on this site regarding the role and professionalism of bloggers. This subject has reappeared on other forums since then, suggesting that we don’t do our research before we write. So, to counter that we’ve decided today to take an educated look at the Clerc Hydroscaph.

The Facts In Brief
Founded in 1874 and still owned by the Clerc family, the main product lines are the Odyssey and Hydroscaph watches. Both are unashamedly large, these are eye-catching time pieces, but I am going to discuss the Steel version of the Hydroscaph and what it is like to live with.

The Hydroscaph
The Hydroscaph is big; as you can see from the picture probably a bit too big for my scrawny wrists but it still fits very nicely. While the lugs aren’t articulated they do reach around the wrist making  the fit snug and and it hugs the wrist. As befits a true diver’s watch the strap is rubber, but in the two weeks I have been wearing the watch it has never once been sweaty or uncomfortable even in a Geneva summer. It has a nice quality feel and is wide and thick enough that it doesn’t look like it is going to perish or crack.

If you prefer it is available with a hornback crocodile strap which is very nice at a small extra cost, but seriously only buy it if you aren’t going diving.

The multi-part case is rated to a depth of 1000m and is constructed using a number of gaskets with all fittings being of the screw-in variety to maintain the seal. The main body has a brushed finish, but the crown is a mixture of both polished and brushed surfaces and this gives it a very superior look and feel. The bezel also rotates and rather than moving freely is altered with a fold out clasp at the 1 o’clock position.

The dial is time, date and GMT and Power Reserve; the first two of which are controlled via the stem while the GMT display at 12 o’clock is set by using the screw-down pusher located between 10 and 11 o’clock. This version came with the lime green hands which I have to say I prefer and are very much on trend. It is not overly done – some other models literally plaster the color all over – but just enough to accentuate the right bits. The dial is split horizontally, textured black to the top and white at the bottom, and whilst some may argue that this could slightly compromise readability I have to say I don’t care as I really like this design very much.

There is an issue that must be addressed with any steel watch – the weight. For the Hydroscaph I would say it is weighty rather than heavy, and although there is a titanium version if you prefer, when I’m buying a diver’s watch I want it to be solid, it has a job to do after all. I don’t think at any point I felt that it was too heavy and my daily watch is considerably lighter. Go with the steel.

I really enjoyed wearing this watch, it’s easy to wear, feels like it would last a lifetime and will not look out-dated in 5 years time. I don’t dive so I might be tempted by that fancy hornback crocodile strap for that extra bit of class but I think that would be my only request.

The Final Word
I am  extremely lucky I get to try out watches on a fairly regular basis but not for some considerable time has a watch provoked so many positive comments from colleagues and friends. This is a quality product, makes a very bold statement while having the cache of being uncommon and reasonably priced, a difficult trick to pull off. This watch would certainly make my Christmas wishlist.

To see more from Clerc please visit their official website: www.clercwatches.com

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