Basel World 2011 – Hands-On With Urwerk

Urwerk UR-110 “Torpedo” – © Urwerk
I have a small confession to make. I have never actually had the pleasure of meeting Felix Baumgartner; which is surprising really given that last year I spent three days on the Speake-Marin stand only 10 metres from Urwerk. He wasn’t ever available such are the demands on his time. This is no great trial though as Yacine, the Urwerk marketing lady, is as kind and generous with her time as you could wish for. My aim today is to try out the new Urwerk 110, the “Torpedo” and the last of the 202 range, dubbed the “Full Metal Jacket” with its metal bracelet, a first for Urwerk.
Considerable praise and press coverage has been garnered by their latest creation, and rightly so, the pictures and videos have been spectacular. But test versions have been in short supply, and I wasn’t able to get to their exhibition during the week of SIHH, so this is the first real opportunity to actually try it on.
This is only the second Urwerk model I have had the opportunity to wear, the story of how the first one ended up on the floor has passed into legend and if I were to relate it they may never let me near their watches ever again!!
The UR-110 Torpedo
So the 110, what’s it like?
Light, bright and very cool. The two versions, bright brushed titanium and black powder coated, while of course basically the same watch, each cut a, very different, dash. The brushed version is predominantly white and this gives it a very readable quality; while the black is a bit more stark but no less impressive for that.
The fit on the wrist is perfect, a casual look at photos might lend you to think that it would sit proud of the wrist, but this is not the case, the wide strap and long case make it hunker down and lie surprisingly flat and sits much more snugly to the arm than some other Urwerk models.
The action of the hands is very clever and extremely smooth, readability is very high and the minutes and hours do peek out of the end of a shirt cuff making the time quite a bit easier than a standard watch which is a little surprising given the inherent complexity.

Urwerk UR-202S with AlTiN coating – © Urwerk
The UR-202S Full Metal Jacket
While the 110 is at the beginning, the 220S is coming to an end and it is determined to go out with a bang! Sporting the first metal bracelet ever used by Urwerk it cuts a striking figure. You may say what’s so special about a metal bracelet? Well as with anything from Urwerk nothing is quite as it may first appear. It has only six links which are the same, all the others can only be placed in one position which means that while most manufacturers order thousands to be produced, Urwerk asked for about 100. You can imagine the look on the face of the maker!! That means every link is precision made, the articulation is smooth with no hint of play and beautifully finished. Quite a parting statement.
The Final Word
Prices may have been raised from previous models, but it is clear where the money has been spent, and on this basis alone the Urwerk 220S would be worth the money. But should you buy this watch it is likely that it will never tell the exact time as you will have people constantly asking you to show them how it works. This will require you to take it off, release the crown and make the hands move. As a result you will probably need to wear a second watch in order to keep the correct time.
Might we perhaps suggest a UR-110?
Category: Basel World & SIHH






