Baselworld 2009: Patek Philippe Ref. 5153J Calatrava Officer’s Watch
Earlier this year at Baselworld 2009 Patek Philippe introduced yet another instant classic with the unveiling of the latest addition to the iconic Calatrava watch collection, the Reference 5153J. Redolent of the complex Ref. 5159 Perpetual Calendar the piece features an elegant new silvered opaline dial with a hand-executed guilloche center section. The stunningly simplistic casing is hewn from yellow gold and presents an enlarged 38mm officer’s case with a precisely adjusted hinged caseback.
Inner Beauty
A slight application of pressure on the finely polished hinged back cover and you are rewarded with an awe-inspiring view of the self-winding 324 SC caliber beneath a sapphire crystal exhibition window. The movement, manufactured in-house by Patek Philippe, is relatively simplistic by their standards and features a date display, and a sweep center seconds function. The freely-sprung Gyromax balance with its “masselotte” weights completes 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Poetry In Motion
Powering the spring barrel to a full power reserve of 45 hours, with that trademark Swiss efficiency, is a a 21-karat gold central rotor, decorated with circular Cotes de Geneve patterns which winds the mainspring in a single direction of rotation. As you would expect from one of the most esteemed watchmakers in the world, the caliber displays painstaking dedication to the decorative standards which has long associated Patek Philippe movements with the prestigious Geneva Seal.
Stunning Design
The design of the The Patek Philippe Ref. 5153J Calatrava Officer’s watch is refined and masculine, taking its cues from the now-discontinued Ref. 5053 watch. Larger in diameter than this well-received predecessor, the Ref. 5153J shares in common the elegant case design with a polished bezel, turban-style winding crown, and slender straight lugs that hold the crocodile strap via screwed gold bars.
Flawlessly complementing the aesthetic design of the casing the silvered dial features the previously mentioned guilloche pattern in concert with famous Calatrava signatures such as faceted gold hour markers and a cabochon minute track.
Water resistance of this new Patek Philippe timepiece is 30 meters. The watch is fitted with a curved sapphire crystal, and a folding clasp in 18-karat yellow gold.
The Final Word
Patek Philippe is known throughout history for producing some of the most simplistically stunning pieces to ever grace the horological world and this piece is certainly no exception. If I could find one fault its that the case is yellow gold making the watch seem slightly dated but in a way this also adds to its classic appeal. These watches are designed for true lovers of craftsmanship and have been created as much to be worn as they have admired.
This may not be the ideal Patek Philippe watch for you but I think secretly we all have a favorite from this incredible brand on our wish list, I know I do! (Several in fact, but don’t tell my bank manager!)
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Instant classic.