Category: Basel World

Basel World 2012: Hands-On With The MRC Tempovision Big Date

| March 29, 2012 | Reply

MRC Tempovision Big Date

It’s been over two years now since Rodolphe Cattin parted ways with the Franck Muller group under what can only be described as strained conditions (read our exclusive interview with Rodolphe about the split here). Now, after a hiatus of sorts he has made his triumphant return to Baselworld, this time under his own brand name, Manufacture Rodolphe Cattin and I, for one, was curious to see exactly what the new manufacturer was all about…

Manufacture Rodolphe Cattin
As far as I can tell the lines of the Manufacture Rodolphe Cattin range are weighted 60/40 in favor of ladies models which is a bit of a change from many brands nowadays, especially considering MRC (as we will now refer to them!) produce in-house movements for their men’s pieces (though I believe with a little help from Soprod and Concepto).

The various gem set ladies models were quite fetching but I was far more interested in seeing what they had to offer us discerning horologically obsessed gentlemen and so after a quick ‘pit-stop’ for a much need cup of coffee (walking through miles upon miles of exhibition halls takes its toll you know!) I sat down and went through the lines with Thomas Meyer, co-founder of the brand.

MRC Tempovision Big Date

The World’s Biggest ‘Big Date’
One piece that really stood out to me was the Tempovision Big Date GMT. You can probably deduce the complications from the name but even that is inadequate to describe just how big this big date is! Taking up a vast amount of space in the center of the semi open-worked dial there are 2 huge metal discs displaying the double digit date in a very legible manner, not only for the wearer but also for curious bystanders standing several blocks away (ok, maybe that’s a slight exaggeration).

The numbers are cut outs, and a colored base highlights the current date at the 3 o’clock position. The size of these discs means that a large amount of power must be generated in order for it to function correctly and without fault. The movement I am told is made completely in-house and has been tested ‘to breaking point’ to ensure the changeover is smooth and instantaneous.

MRC Tempovision Big Date

What Caught My Eye
I have to say I was really impressed with the finer details and finishing of this watch. For example the way the brushed date discs contrast nicely with the polished hour and minute hands make reading the time quite a pleasant experience. Similarly the unusual indents on the oversized crown actually help to grip it and change the time/wind the watch (useful if you are as clumsy as I am!) and the bridges on the movement are matte finished complete with Mr Cattin’s signature, which you can also find on the front in the lower left corner of the sapphire crystal.

In addition to this MRC have added a GMT function, shown with a blue skeletonized and bevelled hand which points to a 24 hour marked track outside of the date discs. Again it’s pretty useful and the coloring is a must to ensure it doesn’t get lost in the dial. Blue is actually a bit of a signature color for the brand and appears again on the underside of the movement and the strap.

MRC Tempovision Big Date

Retail price is quite reasonable starting at somewhere around the $10,000 mark, and the watches are available in a mixture of materials (steel, rose gold, DLC treated) and shapes (round or square).

The Final Word
The Tempovision Big Date is a very solid offering from MRC and represents excellent value for money for those looking for an entry-level piece with an in-house movement and unique styling. It’s also great to see Cattin back in the game after a few years on the side-lines and I really look forward to seeing what he can do with this exciting new brand.

Be sure to tune in next time when I get hands on with the MRC Tempovision Tourbillon and of course if you would like more information please visit the brand’s official website: www.manufacture-rodolphe-cattin.ch.

It’s All In The Metal – URWERK’s UR-110 TTH and UR-110 ST

| March 19, 2012 | 1 Reply

URWERK UR-110 TTH

Earlier this year URWERK unveiled a gorgeous rose gold variant of their highly successful UR-110. Now the Geneva favorite has taken it a step further at the Baselworld fair, introducing a further two slick variations; the UR-110 TTH and UR-110 ST. Keeping in line with the brand’s futuristic approach to watch-design, each variation incorporates the use of a high-tech material to create two very distinct looking new timepieces.

The UR-110 TTH
The veritable ‘tough-guy’ of the new releases, the UR-110 TTH (shown above) boasts an incredibly robust bezel crafted in tantalum, a particularly hard and dense metal, well known for resistance to corrosion and for its bio-inertness. Unlike some other tough talkers though, the UR-110 TTH has the goods to back it up.

Its armored bezel, attached to the titanium case by six screws, is 4.10mm thick as opposed to the other UR-110 models that have a bezel thickness of 2.40mm, making it incredibly resilient to hard knocks. According to the brand the strength of the sapphire crystal has also been upgraded accordingly and finished off with a military-esque registration number etched on the sapphire crystal at 8 o’clock.

As a final touch the decision was made to leave the natural bluish-gray tint of the tantalum relatively untouched, utilising only the techniques of satin-finishing and sand-blasting to help to enhance the natural beauty of this highly unusual material.

URWERK UR-110 ST

The UR-110 ST
The new look UR-110 ST sees the brand return to a material we are more familiar with; AlTiN – or Aluminum Titanium Nitride to the uninitiated. Originally designed for industry applications an AlTiN coating less than 4 microns thick has the effect of multiplying the resistance of the underlying metal to scratches, shocks, oxidation and even acids.

Unlike the smooth UR-202 AlTiN the titanium case of the UR-110 ST features a series of undulating grooves, coated entirely in AlTiN and contrasting wonderfully against the perfect smoothness of the sapphire crystal. According to Martin Frei, URWERK’s co-founder and artistic director, this effect was intentional with the case of the UR-110 ST designed to encourage its wearer to touch.

“A watch worn on a daily basis should be a source of pleasure – the primal pleasure of possession, naturally, but also the pleasure of the experience of it on the wrist,” he explains. “There is a quote I like from French poet and diplomat Paul Claudel: ‘Sculpture is the need to touch.’ I very much hope the UR-110 ST creates this need.”

The Final Word
Dress it up however you like, the UR-110 is one seriously cool watch. With these latest variations URWERK has ensured it has something to suit all tastes whilst also demonstrating the versatility of one of our favorite timepieces through the clever use of unusual materials.

For more information please visit the official URWERK website: www.urwerk.com

Baselworld 2012: Claret X-TREM-1 – First Impressions

| March 17, 2012 | 1 Reply

Claret X-TREM-1

You’ve seen the press release, the pictures and Tom’s detailed description of the watch, but what is it really like? Well, first off it is smaller than you might expect given the stature of previous models, but the real surprise? The weight. There just isn’t any.

The back is silky smooth, the leather strap supple, the deployment clasp has a satisfying click which you know means it’s never going to come loose. When you put it on – yes, they did let me try it on – it seems to disappear. It is quite simply one of the nicest fitting watches I have ever worn.

But it is the little things that really impress, things that don’t show up in the photos. Despite what anyone tries to tell you there are no wires inside the hour and minute tubes moving the balls up and down, this really is the first mechanical watch where the time indicators are unconnected to the movement.

Then there is the subtle button at the top of the watch that manages all of the functions; once you see it it’s obvious, but it is just so well done that it blends harmoniously into the rest of the case.

Of course what people are really interested in is the time mechanism. I suspect that for a complete answer a degree in Physics might be in order, but there are some excellent reasons why magnets are not normally used in watches. The challenge here is to focus that magnetism to a narrow space where it’s influence can be minimalized. The use of exotic materials throughout the watch helps as well.

In fact the amount of magnetic force used is quite small, so small that a good jolt will send the indicators to the bottom of the tube. Of course while the balls themselves may have moved the magnets have not, all that is needed is to simply give the watch a little shake and they return to their previous position. Simple really.

The Final Word
The sheer time, effort and expense of making this watch means that it will, by necessity, be limited to only 10 pieces of each case type. Even with prices around 260,000CHF it seems certain that the range will be sold out pretty quickly thus enabling Christophe Claret to amaze us all over again next year.

Baselworld 2012: Maitres du Temps Chapter Three Reveal (VIDEO)

| March 13, 2012 | Reply

Maitres du Temps Chapter Three Reveal

After taking a step back from the limelight during the last year and a half, luxury watch-maker Maîtres du Temps is back and ready to woo connoisseurs again with a remarkable new timepiece. Following on the success of their Chapter One and Chapter Two collections the brand unveiled the all-new Chapter Three Reveal at Baselworld this year, showcasing the superb talents of independent watch-makers Kari Voutilainen and Andreas Strehler.

A Different Direction
The Chapter Three is so unlike its predecessors that one almost questions if it has come from the same book. For a start the case is round, instead of the tonneau style the brand has become associated with and at just 42mm it is tiny compared to its elder siblings. Whilst this makes it slightly less distinctive on the wrist (from a distance at least) the upside is that the more conventional design makes the timepiece far more accessible and attractive to a wider market, which in my opinion is definitely a good thing.

There are a couple of key similarities however, which denote this timepiece as an undeniable product of Maîtres du Temps. For a start, like both Chapter One and Two before it, the Chapter Three is the result of a unique partnership, conceived and created by the brand in collaboration with two highly celebrated independent watchmakers. In this case; Mr. Kari Voutilainen and Mr. Andreas Strehler. Secondly is the use of rollers, a trademark of the brand designed to be both functional as well as aesthetically pleasing.

Maitres du Temps Chapter Three Reveal

Hidden Secrets
Given that the Chapter Three doesn’t have the bold design or large wrist presence that defined the previous models, it had to find another, more subtle way, to stand out. The solution? Ingeniously hidden second time-zone and day-night indicators.

At first glance the gorgeous blue guilloche dial displays hours, minutes, seconds, date, and phase of the moon. Everything has its place and each indication is well laid out and easy to read, successfully striking the delicate balance between clutter and functionality. I would even go so far as to say that adding any additional indications, whilst potentially useful, could in fact detract from the attractiveness of the dial.

And I would be wrong.

Let’s face it, generally speaking access to a second time-zone indicator is not always essential but for frequent travellers it can be quite useful. That is why two very clever watch-makers; Strehler and Voutilainen, have devised a manner in which the Chapter Three can provide this additional information but only when it is necessary, thus preserving the harmony of the dial.

When the need arises the wearer simply activates a pusher set into the crown, which magically lowers two invisible panels in the dial to reveal the two previously hidden indications: the second time zone indicator at six o’clock and a day/night indicator at 12 o’clock, both displayed on Maîtres du Temps’ signature rollers. Check out the live video below via WatchAnish to see how it looks in action:

I particularly like the ornate day/night roller, which rotates in 24 hours and features engraved, polished, printed, and hand-painted icons: the sun to symbolize day and the night sky to represent night. Although it may seem a bit frivolous at first this indication is as actually quite useful in conjunction with the second time zone as it enables the user to see at a glance if it is day or night at their home time-zone. Plus it’s quite pleasant to look at.

The second time zone is adjusted by using a quick-set pusher at 9 o’clock, with each push advancing the roller by one hour. According to the brand the time zone and day/night rollers are permanently synchronized with each other and can adjust both forwards and backwards in time through the crown. To maximize legibility the second time zone is displayed on two separate rollers: hours 1–6 on one and 7–12 on the other. Using two rollers instead of one means that only six numbers have to be displayed around the circumference of each roller, enabling them to be twice as large, so twice as easy to read.

As you can see in the video, when the rollers transition (forwards or backwards) between 6 and 7 or 12 and 1, the superseded roller slides horizontally out of the way and the new roller moves into place. This innovative mechanism was designed specifically for the Chapter Three and has been awarded a patent.

Maitres du Temps Chapter Three Reveal

Keeping It In-House
In a first for the brand the movement has been made completely in-house, allowing for the rollers to be integrated directly into the caliber and thus saving space. Developed by Voutilainen with refinements and technical solutions by Strehler, the Caliber SHC03 is also the first movement Voutilainen has developed for a brand other than his own and took more than three years of collaborative work.

At present the Chapter Three Reveal is only offered in an 18k gold case, with matching 18k solid gold hands and blue guilloche dial, however one would think that future models will offer different metal and color selections.

The Final Word
The Chapter Three Reveal is definitely the most subdued piece to be produced by Maîtres du Temps to date and represents a more accessible timepiece, yet one that still embodies something special. Arguably it has sacrificed some of the elements that made the previous models stand out so much however this has more than addressed by the understated elegance and high quality craftsmanship, not to mention the unusual complication.

Whilst it may not be as grandiose as the Chapter One, I see the Chapter Three as being a very smart and probably necessary move by Maîtres du Temps, providing a real anchor piece for the brand and increasing its appeal to a wider audience.

For more information please visit the official website: www.maitresdutemps.com

BaselWorld 2012: Blancpain Villeret Skeleton 8 Days

| March 11, 2012 | Reply

Blancpain Villeret Skeleton 8 Days

It’s been a while since we’ve featured a classic, skeletonised timepiece here on The Watch Lounge and so when Blancpain unveiled their new Villeret Skeleton 8 days at this year’s Basel World we just knew we had to share!

Housed in a 38mm white gold case, the manual wind Blancpain Calibre 1333SQ, which boasts an incredible 8-day or 192 hour power reserve, has been completely skeletonized and hand-decorated to the highest degree on both the front and back.

Blancpain Villeret Skeleton 8 Days

The finished product is a stunning visual treat for the observer, providing a gentle reminder that relatively simplistic traditional techniques can still produce truly breathtaking results.

For more information please visit Blancpain’s official website: www.blancpain.com

Next Page »