Archive for the ‘BaselWorld 2010’ Category:
EXCLUSIVE UPDATE: Hands On With The New Thunderbolt Calibre From MB&F
In one of those moments of good fortune that don’t come along very often I found myself yesterday in the right place at the right time. The right place being the MB&F atelier in the centre of Geneva talking with Maximilian Büsser, and the right time is 2 hours after the release the first pictures of the ‘Thunderbolt’ movement to the world.
A passing comment from me asking to see the new movement was met with a more positive “Yes” than I had expected, especially given that Basel is now only a few days away. My pulse began to race in anticipation as soon as he left the room to find an example. As Max explained “when we launch the new watch people won’t necessarily be looking at the movement”, so the company decided to release the details of the movement only first so that people would truly appreciate the craftsmanship involved.
A wise move I think as it’s not too hard to imagine that the importance of the movement will be overshadowed by the unveiling of an all new piece, especially when one considers the designs of his other Horological Machines. Still, I can’t help but think what a shame that will be as I gaze at this truly mind-blowing new movement.
So you’ve seen the pictures, but what is it really like?
Well the version I saw was only a prototype, I say ‘only’ a prototype, but the finish was exemplary. If more manufacturers, who will remain nameless, finished their products as well as MB&F prototypes, well I think you can finish the sentence.
Despite have a passing resemblance to a fighter from the ‘Star Wars’ movies, it is the aesthetics of the machine that sets this apart. There is an innate balance between size, function and design that is no accident.
The use of Computer Aided Design allows modern designers free range for their thoughts, which is evident throughout the MB&F range, but at some point the real world must intrude and while pushing the boundaries of what is possible is exciting, compromises must be made. It may not be possible to make all of the parts to the defined size; one compromise may mean another, it is this balance that MB&F has historically got so right, and I am pleased to say that by all accounts they have again this time.
The machine is largely enclosed, this is no skeleton movement, the plates are chunky and have a very architectural look about them. If this was the 1960s perhaps we’d describe them as being slightly ‘brutalist’. Wheels and pivots poke out at you, and more appear as you look from different angles and turn the movement over hinting at the work going on inside.
This just leads to temptation, if only I had my screw set with me, just a quick look inside, but sadly not this time.
Unfortunately I can’t tell you about the weight, but MB&F don’t use a large amount of synthetic materials in their watches so not featherweight, but who cares? All Horological Machines are created with the express desire to make them serviceable in 100 years time which means sticking to traditional steel and brass etc.
This approach also adds to the overall feel of permanence and solidity, it also makes you want to pick it up and run it through your fingers; I decided not to, I’m not crazy, do you have any idea how much these cost?
If you are lucky enough to be going to Basel World be sure to go visit “The Dream Factory” and have a look for yourself. I promise you won’t regret it. In addition to MB&F there will be Speake-Marin, Urwerk and Christophe Claret all exhibiting in the Palace, opposite the Ramada Hotel.
The enduring thought I had after leaving the MB&F atelier was if that’s the movement, what’s the watch going to look like!!
To see all the pictures of the new Thunderbolt movement from MB&F check out our story on it here.
What do you think? Leave a comment. | Filed under BaselWorld 2010, Exclusives and Previews, New This Week
MB&F Releases First Images Of The All New Thunderbolt Calibre For HM No.4
It’s here! Well sort of. Today, MB&F have released the first images of their brand new movement, aptly named the “Thunderbolt”, which will form the engine of the highly anticipated HM No.4. Unfortunately no images are available of the HM No.4 as yet, but these pictures of the movement alone are enough to make us go weak at the knees!
According to Maximilian Büsser, Founder and Creative Director of MB&F, the whole ethos of the brand is about “creating ‘kinetic art which gives time’, this HM4 engine symbolizes pretty well our creative philosophy.”
Just looking at the images its not hard to understand why MB&F have chosen to release details of only the movement first. It is an absolute work of art in itself, a complex piece of machinery comprised of hundreds of carefully constructed, intricate parts. This is like no other calibre you have ever seen before and represents a complete departure from any watch movement known today.
Whilst the “Thunderbolt” movement itself will be exhibited at Basel World next week, HM No.4, said to be MB&F’s most radical machine to date, sadly will not be unveiled until July 2010.
Fingers-crossed we can wait that long!
If you would like to find out more about MB&F check out their official website. And for all the latest updates make sure you become a fan on Facebook.
Classic And Classy – The New Longines Column-Wheel Chronograph
We tend not to cover mainstream brands too often here on The Watch Lounge. It’s not that we don’t like them, indeed we admire many of their exceptional pieces, it’s just that we feel there are already a number of great sites out there that do a more than a sufficient job of covering these brands, like Perpetuelle, FratelloWatches and Ablogtoread. However, when we saw this stunning, stylish new piece from Longines we simply could not help ourselves. So enjoy!
Classic Style
Scheduled to be officially launched as part of Longine’s new collection at Basel World this year, the new Column-Wheel Chronograph exhibits all the characteristics an instant classic should. Subtle and refined in its style the dial looks superb and is clear and uncluttered, just as a chronograph should be. Presented in muted tones that provide just the right level of contrast, this new piece is an absolute pleasure to behold.
The polished stainless steel case is perfectly sized at 39mm, and also is available in rose gold. The brown alligator strap with buckle ensures this piece is both elegant and versatile. This is a watch that can be worn in the boardroom, on your yacht or even on the golf course, the choice is yours.
However, it’s not just timeless looks that this piece has going for it.
Technically Astute
At its heart beats the very exclusive L688.2 column-wheel chronograph movement launched in 2009. Mandated and financed by Longines, ETA developed this exclusive new automatic column-wheel movement for a wrist chronograph, designed to provide an exceptional degree of user comfort without comprising on accuracy or reliability.
For those of you who are after something a little sportier, there is also the Column-Wheel Sports Chronograph (pictured above) presented in a slightly larger 41mm stainless steel case with a black or grey ceramic bezel. Powered by the same movement, the Sports version is offered on your choice of rubber or steel bands.
No word on pricing as yet but expect it to be between $2,000 – $4,000.
The Final Word
Although Longines gives you two choices here the clear winner in our eyes is the classic Column-Wheel Chronograph. It is an exceptionally well-made timepiece and its distinguished yet refined style will ensure it’s never out of place on your wrist, regardless of the occasion. Plus it has the technical credentials to back up its classic good looks.
This is definitely one for the collection.
New Book: The Hands Of Time – Celebrating 25 Years Of The AHCI
With Basel World only a days away now, we are beginning to see more and more press releases for new products, but just as exciting we will also have some great books to read. We’ve already told you about the launch of the wonderful new book from Elizabeth Doerr “The Twelve Faces Of Time”, now it gives us great pleasure to introduce a new book from master watcher maker Peter Speake-Marin and celebrated writer and photographer Ian Skellern; “The Hands of Time”.
Away from the glitz and the glamour often associated with the world of horology are a group of artisans producing some of the most fantastic watches available today. These makers are at the cutting edge of the watchmaking world, often to be found head down at the bench working on their latest prototypes. Many of these individuals are members of the Académie Horlogère Des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI); which is celebrating 25 years this year. To commemorate this exceptional achievement the first ever AHCI book is now available, representing over two years of solid work from the book’s authors.
Conceived by master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin and written by ace horological photographer Ian Skellern it features 200 pages of the best independent horological instruments available today. The book is beautifully bound and the paper has a nice quality feel and a classy shiny UV coating, this helps the contrast and really makes the pictures stand out from the page.
Celebrating the launch of the new book in style. © Speake-Marin
Rather than going for a more common photo of a watch movement the cover is a very classy white with red accents and the AHCI logo. This can probably be put down to the egalitarian nature of the AHCI which continues inside the book. Each member has the same number of pages to explain their watchmaking vision and display their creations, and the members are listed in the order in which they joined the AHCI rather than say a more normal alphabetical listing.
While many of the names maybe unknown to you, you will recognize the likes of Peter Speake-Marin, Felix Baumgartner (Urwerk) and F.P Journe who are becoming increasingly well-known in the mainstream marketplace. The book displays their products very well but it is the chance to see pieces from smaller makers like Andreas Strehler and Christian Klings that really appeals. The last entry in the book is the McGonigle brothers, two rising stars of the watch world. The text is especially interesting as I didn’t know Stephen also worked at Somlo Antiques in London, which is where Peter Speake-Marin also started, funny how things come around.
I can’t say that it is the sort of book that you would pick up and read cover-to-cover, but it is a great book for dipping into, and you are likely to learn something every time you read it. The only problem is that the pictures just make the credit card itch, oh to be a little bit richer!! Without a doubt this is a book you should have in your reference library.
The “Hands of Time” is available for purchase from the AHCI stand at Basel World from the 18th March until 25th March or from the dedicated website www.ahcibook.com for a very reasonable 60CHF.
Weird Watch Wednesday: Chopard L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon
In a highly competitive market, such as the luxury watch industry, participants need to evolve constantly, trying new things and finding new ways to get the upper hand on their competitors. Sometimes these new concepts are beautifully executed and work out well and sometimes they just fail dismally. Fortunately for high-end luxury watchmaker Chopard their latest creation, to be presented at Basel World later this month, sits firmly in the first category.
A Podium Finish
Exquisitely different from anything the brand has attempted before, this new piece only serves to reaffirm Chopard’s impressive capabilities as a watchmaker. True to the brand’s motor racing themed heritage, the shape and design of new Engine One Tourbillon is reticent of an engine block. In fact, almost everything about this new piece has been inspired by motor racing in some way or another.
The manually wound L.U.C 1TRM tourbillon calibre is COSC-certified and has been made completely in-house by Chopard and specially shaped to fit within the unique case. It is equipped with a 60-hour power reserve and is mounted within the case on shock-absorbing blocks much like a race car engine. Three lever-arms inserted into the middle of the case hold it in place and ensure absolute stability.
As the name suggests the piece features a tourbillon complication, which is exposed on the stunningly simplistic dial, sitting just below the power reserve indicator. The tourbillon cage completes one revolution every 60 seconds and the bridge has been beautifully skeletonized, maximizing the visual appeal of this highly desirable novelty.
Subtle Yet Distinctive
The distinctive case is crafted from titanium and measures 35.4mm in width by 44.4mm in length. Showcasing a striking combination of polished and brushed surfaces, the sides of the piece reveal contrasting brushed flanks and strongly curved lugs, creating a case that is both aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortably fitting. Adding to that comfort is a hand-sewn black alligator strap with a titanium buckle, a welcome change from the rubber straps many luxury brands have been favoring on their high-end sports pieces.
A quick look at the dial and you could be forgiven for thinking you had just opened the bonnet of an expensive sports car. The satin central section and vertically striated outer sections work together to create the impression of engine rocker covers and provide a very unique look without cluttering or over-complicating the dial. The power reserve indicator sits on a slightly elevated area at 12 o’clock, looking every bit the gas-gauge it has been designed to emulate.
As a an added touch the hour markers and indices are located directly on the shaped sapphire crystal, as opposed to the dial which is the more common practice, and this in turn creates an appealing three-dimensional effect while at the same improving the overall legibility of the exceptionally refined dial.
As the brand is celebrating its 150th birthday this year, the L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon will be offered in a limited production of just 150 pieces and the price is expected to be in excess of $100,000.
The Final Word
There are many things to love about this new piece from Chopard. Its original design, the fact the movement is made completely in-house, the adherence to the brand’s racing heritage, the list goes on. But what truly impresses us, however, is the fact that the brand has been willing to try something bold and different and has really pulled it off.
This watch doesn’t need to use cheap tricks and bright colors to stand out, it is its simplicity that makes it truly distinctive.
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