Archive for the ‘BaselWorld 2010’ Category:
Wow Watch Wednesday: New Romain Jerome CEO Unveils Moon Invader at Baselworld 2010
Taking the reins during the early part of this year, Manuel Emch, the new CEO of Romain Jérôme, did not have much time to add to the company’s watch collection before Baselworld 2010 in March. He was, however, able to design and finish one watch to unveil at the fair. Aggressively titled the “Moon Invader”, the form and function of the piece has been inspired by actual Moon landings, resulting in a very unique looking timepiece.
New CEO, New Approach (Well, Sort Of)
It’s fair to say that this latest release departs considerably from the look of previous DNA of Legends timepieces, which have become quite visible in the media during the past couple of years, but still remains true to the RJ ideals. The most obvious difference occurs on the 46mm case. It is not exactly round, has a less pronounced bezel, and is actually a cushion shape, like a square with rounded sides.
In fact, at first glance it almost appears square like a Bell & Ross Instrument.
One thing that remains the same as prior RJ models is the use of extremely rare materials. Spare parts from the Apollo 11 mission are integrated into the case components and represent just one of the numerous aspects that link the Moon Invader to lunar landing missions.
The case itself is actually modeled after a lunar landing pod with the specialized corners depicting the landing gear and work somewhat in the same way by pivoting to adjust to the terrain. In this case the terrain is the wearer’s wrist. This feature is meant to have the function of increasing comfort by automatically adjusting the shape of the case-back to your wrist.
It was hard to tell from the prototype how effective this function will actually be as the pivoting feet were not fully operational, but I can imagine how it could prevent the considerable size of the watch from rolling or bouncing around too much on the wrist.
The back of the case displays more lunar landing symbolism. The most obvious element is a silver medallion that is embedded into the steel. This object is made of pure silver that is infused with authentic moon dust. It is sculpted to resemble the moon’s surface and purposely left untreated and prone to oxidization. Oxidization is a concept that RJ is very fond of thanks largely to the influence of former CEO Yvan Arpa.
The dial of the Moon Invader displays the distinctive RJ “X.” It is applied on a metal mesh that is inspired by the material used to make the tires of the lunar roving vehicles. The subsidiary dials, RJ logo, X structure, and graduated outer ring of the dial are applied to the mesh and offer a cool, robust-looking relief.
The quality of the construction and finish of all the dial’s elements are recognizable as high-grade. Although the mesh background ties in well with the overall concept and has a peculiar charm, I would love to see what the face would look like with a more exotic-looking material like carbon fiber as its background.
It’s All In The Design
There is a specific category of luxury watches where plenty of attention is paid to the manufacturing of the case. Romain Jerome fits in this league with the likes of Graham and Hublot watches. RJ goes a step further by sprinkling extremely rare substances into the mix. It is obvious from the finishing and the complexity of the case that a lot of ingenuity and work is packed into the body of the Moon Invader.
Also in accordance with other brands making this style of watch, the mechanical movements inside the watches are comparably mundane, albeit reliable and of high quality. Like all RJ calibres, the ones that power the Moon Invader models are modified third-party movements, provided by ETA in this case.
The Romain Jerome Moon Invader series is composed of several different variations combining black PVD coated stainless and 18 karat gold. Each model will be produced in limited numbers as is usual with the company’s creations.
The Final Word
Whether it was intended or not, the Moon Invader also represents a formal introduction of Romain Jerome’s new CEO to the market and gives some insight as to what we might be able to expect going forward. Obviously he remains supportive of the use of extremely rare materials in the construction of their timepieces, such as moon dust and spare parts from the Apollo 11 mission in this instance.
At the same time, this watch very much distinguishes itself from previous “DNA of Legends” models, allowing Emch to step out from the shadow of his predecessor and squarely make his mark on the brand. Based on this latest model perhaps the future will hold a shift to a more eclectic design approach for this young company?
We will certainly be watching.
Matt Baily – Watches Canada
3 Great Comments. Leave one too. | Filed under BaselWorld 2010, New This Week, Watch Reviews, Wow Watch Wednesday
Weird Watch Wednesday: Franc Vila FVa35 SuperSonico 5 Minutes Repeater
If you’re looking for something truly distinctive you’d be hard pressed to go past some of the absolutely stunning creations by Spanish watch maker Franc Vila. Characterized by unconventional designs and alternative materials, Franc Vila’s watches are bold and adventurous and to be honest, probably quite unlike anything you have seen or worn before. One particular model that really caught our eye at this year’s Basel World was the brand’s new concept watch; the FVa35 SuperSonico 5 Minutes Repeater.
SuperLigero Concept Collection
Back in 2008 the company celebrated the inauguration of a new line known as the SuperLigero Concept collection with the presentation of the first model from this collection, the FVa Nº 6, a skeleton tourbillion with a 5 day power reserve. Essentially the concept revolves around the development of different masterpieces that all share the characteristic of being very light whilst at the same time extremely robust thus providing lovers of Haute Horlogerie a collection of contemporary and complicated watches that able to withstand even the most demanding of sport activities.
Each of the timepieces introduced under the SuperLigero concept share a common element; the use of Lightnium, an aluminum-lithium based alloy used in state of the art aeronautical engineering. Its main characteristics are lightness combined with high-tensile strength, allowing structural weight reduction and an increase in the elastic modulus performance. These characteristics allow for the development of very robust movements like the FV Nº 6 skeleton tourbillon or the FV Nº Cuatro SuperLigero chronograph tourbillon.
Superior Performance
The all new FVa35 SuperSonico also belongs to this category and as the name suggests this new piece features an exceptionally sophisticated complication, a 5 Minutes Repeater. What’s really impressive though is that the company has found a way to use Lightnium to enhance the quality of the sound produced. Without wanting to go into the technical specifications in too much detail essentially the rigidity of Lightnium, coupled with its low density and elastic modulus are optimal to ensure the best possible sonority.
Therefore to maximize the benefits of using this material and to ensure the best sound possible the inner part of the watchcase are constructed from Lightnium, which is in charge of transmitting the sound with the lowest possible loss of energy to the outer part of the watchcase, made in high-grade titanium. This combination of titanium and Lightnium ensures optimal sound qualities for the repetition complication.
Given the complexity of the movement it is very exciting to see that Mr Vila has decided to forgo a traditional dial in favor of a very basic skeleton approach, thus affording the wearer an uninterrupted view of the sonnerie complication complete with gongs and hammers. The movement itself is a self-winding hand finished Caliber FV35 complete with the exclusive Franc Vila Gold Concept Rotor and features a power reserve of 42 hours.
The piece will be presented in a limited edition of 88 pieces and I imagine will be phenomenally expensive.
The Final Word
This somewhat extreme timepiece will certainly not suit all tastes but I commend Mr Vila for creating his own, original style and having the courage to stick to it. Too often we see brands simply regurgitating ideas taken from other brands with minor changes but no real sense of unique identity. Hate them or love them Franc Vila’s watches are distinctive and all but guarantee that their owners will be too.
Reflecting On The Show That Was: Looking Back At Basel World 2010
Now that all the excitement has died down and a bit of time has passed, it’s time for a look back on the 2010 Baselworld Fair. I didn’t get a chance to see everything I wanted, neither did I get the time to write everything down, but before this year’s event passes into the annuls of history there are a few points to bring up.
The AHCI booth was a great place to visit and Thomas Prescher looks like he is really beginning to make headway, perhaps he will be the next member to break-out onto his own stand and area, the models look good and remain affordable. Saskia maaike Bouvier is a nominee for membership and will be the first female individual member; she makes very exciting watches for ladies, I hope to visit her soon so more to come on her.
The general mood seemed to be very positive around the show, though some areas did seem to be a little less visited than others. I think that to survive in this difficult but improving marketplace it is more important than ever to have the right marketing, the right products and the right pricing, the middle-ground remains a difficult place to be.
We don’t really cover the major brands here on The Watch Lounge, but the new Patek Phillippe models look good. There seems to be some price speculation going on and purchases made in the hope that they will yield a good return at some point in the future. I have always had some concerns about this behavior, a watch should be worn on your wrist not stuck in a safety deposit box, but historically Pateks have retained their value so who can say what will happen.
It is a little disappointing that there are still “fashion” brands mixed in with manufacturers. Booths are allocated by length of time at the show, so unless a company goes bankrupt your place remains your place forever. There will be some changes to the Halls for next year’s show as a new hall is to be built and Hall 1 is upgraded so there could be some jockeying for position coming up over the next few years.
If you have never been to Baselworld or haven’t been for many years, I would recommend a visit, it is the one thing every watch fan should do at least once in their life no matter how far away they live. But whatever you do don’t try to see everything in one day, you can’t. Attempting the impossible will only give you sore feet and a frayed temper, take your time, get a hotel room for a couple of nights (if you can) and avoid the weekend.
Can’t wait for next year!!
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