Taking the reins during the early part of this year, Manuel Emch, the new CEO of Romain Jérôme, did not have much time to add to the company’s watch collection before Baselworld 2010 in March. He was, however, able to design and finish one watch to unveil at the fair. Aggressively titled the “Moon Invader”, the form and function of the piece has been inspired by actual Moon landings, resulting in a very unique looking timepiece.

New CEO, New Approach (Well, Sort Of)
It’s fair to say that this latest release departs considerably from the look of previous DNA of Legends timepieces, which have become quite visible in the media during the past couple of years, but still remains true to the RJ ideals. The most obvious difference occurs on the 46mm case. It is not exactly round, has a less pronounced bezel, and is actually a cushion shape, like a square with rounded sides.

In fact, at first glance it almost appears square like a Bell & Ross Instrument.

One thing that remains the same as prior RJ models is the use of extremely rare materials. Spare parts from the Apollo 11 mission are integrated into the case components and represent just one of the numerous aspects that link the Moon Invader to lunar landing missions.

The case itself is actually modeled after a lunar landing pod with the specialized corners depicting the landing gear and work somewhat in the same way by pivoting to adjust to the terrain. In this case the terrain is the wearer’s wrist. This feature is meant to have the function of increasing comfort by automatically adjusting the shape of the case-back to your wrist.

It was hard to tell from the prototype how effective this function will actually be as the pivoting feet were not fully operational, but I can imagine how it could prevent the considerable size of the watch from rolling or bouncing around too much on the wrist.

The back of the case displays more lunar landing symbolism. The most obvious element is a silver medallion that is embedded into the steel. This object is made of pure silver that is infused with authentic moon dust. It is sculpted to resemble the moon’s surface and purposely left untreated and prone to oxidization. Oxidization is a concept that RJ is very fond of thanks largely to the influence of former CEO Yvan Arpa.

The dial of the Moon Invader displays the distinctive RJ “X.” It is applied on a metal mesh that is inspired by the material used to make the tires of the lunar roving vehicles. The subsidiary dials, RJ logo, X structure, and graduated outer ring of the dial are applied to the mesh and offer a cool, robust-looking relief.

The quality of the construction and finish of all the dial’s elements are recognizable as high-grade. Although the mesh background ties in well with the overall concept and has a peculiar charm, I would love to see what the face would look like with a more exotic-looking material like carbon fiber as its background.

It’s All In The Design
There is a specific category of luxury watches where plenty of attention is paid to the manufacturing of the case. Romain Jerome fits in this league with the likes of Graham and Hublot watches. RJ goes a step further by sprinkling extremely rare substances into the mix. It is obvious from the finishing and the complexity of the case that a lot of ingenuity and work is packed into the body of the Moon Invader.

Also in accordance with other brands making this style of watch, the mechanical movements inside the watches are comparably mundane, albeit reliable and of high quality. Like all RJ calibres, the ones that power the Moon Invader models are modified third-party movements, provided by ETA in this case.

The Romain Jerome Moon Invader series is composed of several different variations combining black PVD coated stainless and 18 karat gold. Each model will be produced in limited numbers as is usual with the company’s creations.

The Final Word
Whether it was intended or not, the Moon Invader also represents a formal introduction of Romain Jerome’s new CEO to the market and gives some insight as to what we might be able to expect going forward.  Obviously he remains supportive of the use of extremely rare materials in the construction of their timepieces, such as moon dust and spare parts from the Apollo 11 mission in this instance.

At the same time, this watch very much distinguishes itself from previous “DNA of Legends” models, allowing Emch to step out from the shadow of his predecessor and squarely make his mark on the brand. Based on this latest model perhaps the future will hold a shift to a more eclectic design approach for this young company?

We will certainly be watching.

Matt Baily – Watches Canada

If you’re looking for something truly distinctive you’d be hard pressed to go past some of the absolutely stunning creations by Spanish watch maker Franc Vila. Characterized by unconventional designs and alternative materials, Franc Vila’s watches are bold and adventurous and to be honest, probably quite unlike anything you have seen or worn before. One particular model that really caught our eye at this year’s Basel World was the brand’s new concept watch; the FVa35 SuperSonico 5 Minutes Repeater.

SuperLigero Concept Collection
Back in 2008 the company celebrated the inauguration of a new line known as the SuperLigero Concept collection with the presentation of the first model from this collection, the FVa Nº 6, a skeleton tourbillion with a 5 day power reserve. Essentially the concept revolves around the development of different masterpieces that all share the characteristic of being very light whilst at the same time extremely robust thus providing lovers of Haute Horlogerie a collection of contemporary and complicated watches that able to withstand even the most demanding of sport activities.

Each of the timepieces introduced under the SuperLigero concept share a common element; the use of Lightnium, an aluminum-lithium based alloy used in state of the art aeronautical engineering. Its main characteristics are lightness combined with high-tensile strength, allowing structural weight reduction and an increase in the elastic modulus performance. These characteristics allow for the development of very robust movements like the FV Nº 6 skeleton tourbillon or the FV Nº Cuatro SuperLigero chronograph tourbillon.

Superior Performance
The all new FVa35 SuperSonico also belongs to this category and as the name suggests this new piece features an exceptionally sophisticated complication, a 5 Minutes Repeater. What’s really impressive though is that the company has found a way to use Lightnium to enhance the quality of the sound produced. Without wanting to go into the technical specifications in too much detail essentially the rigidity of Lightnium, coupled with its low density and elastic modulus are optimal to ensure the best possible sonority.

Therefore to maximize the benefits of using this material and to ensure the best sound possible the inner part of the watchcase are constructed from Lightnium, which is in charge of transmitting the sound with the lowest possible loss of energy to the outer part of the watchcase, made in high-grade titanium. This combination of titanium and Lightnium ensures optimal sound qualities for the repetition complication.

Given the complexity of the movement it is very exciting to see that Mr Vila has decided to forgo a traditional dial in favor of a very basic skeleton approach, thus affording the wearer an uninterrupted view of the sonnerie complication complete with gongs and hammers. The movement itself is a self-winding hand finished Caliber FV35 complete with the exclusive Franc Vila Gold Concept Rotor and features a power reserve of 42 hours.

The piece will be presented in a limited edition of 88 pieces and I imagine will be phenomenally expensive.

The Final Word
This somewhat extreme timepiece will certainly not suit all tastes but I commend Mr Vila for creating his own, original style and having the courage to stick to it. Too often we see brands simply regurgitating ideas taken from other brands with minor changes but no real sense of unique identity. Hate them or love them Franc Vila’s watches are distinctive and all but guarantee that their owners will be too.

Now that all the excitement has died down and a bit of time has passed, it’s time for a look back on the 2010 Baselworld Fair. I didn’t get a chance to see everything I wanted, neither did I get the time to write everything down, but before this year’s event passes into the annuls of history there are a few points to bring up.

The AHCI booth was a great place to visit and Thomas Prescher looks like he is really beginning to make headway, perhaps he will be the next member to break-out onto his own stand and area, the models look good and remain affordable. Saskia maaike Bouvier is a nominee for membership and will be the first female individual member; she makes very exciting watches for ladies, I hope to visit her soon so more to come on her.

The general mood seemed to be very positive around the show, though some areas did seem to be a little less visited than others. I think that to survive in this difficult but improving marketplace it is more important than ever to have the right marketing, the right products and the right pricing, the middle-ground remains a difficult place to be.

We don’t really cover the major brands here on The Watch Lounge, but the new Patek Phillippe models look good. There seems to be some price speculation going on and purchases made in the hope that they will yield a good return at some point in the future. I have always had some concerns about this behavior, a watch should be worn on your wrist not stuck in a safety deposit box, but historically Pateks have retained their value so who can say what will happen.

It is a little disappointing that there are still “fashion” brands mixed in with manufacturers. Booths are allocated by length of time at the show, so unless a company goes bankrupt your place remains your place forever. There will be some changes to the Halls for next year’s show as a new hall is to be built and Hall 1 is upgraded so there could be some jockeying for position coming up over the next few years.

If you have never been to Baselworld or haven’t been for many years, I would recommend a visit, it is the one thing every watch fan should do at least once in their life no matter how far away they live. But whatever you do don’t try to see everything in one day, you can’t. Attempting the impossible will only give you sore feet and a frayed temper, take your time, get a hotel room for a couple of nights (if you can) and avoid the weekend.

Can’t wait for next year!!

At this year’s Baselworld fair the resurgence of vintage styles and return to classic values was more evident than ever, nowhere more so than in the new collection from Bell & Ross. Officially unveiled at the show, the stunning new Vintage collection from B&R will eventually replace the original Vintage (and Geneva) lines. These funky looking new pieces strive to replicate the unique look of professional timepieces of four to six decades ago whilst at the same time infusing them with instantly recognizable modern Bell & Ross traits.

Brand New Vintage
Prior to the advent of the BR Instruments, Bell & Ross watches were more or less split into two categories: Vintage and Professional. While many people were not aware of the French brand before the conspicuous square BR-01 came to be, their original creations attracted a strong following thanks to their high quality and clean designs and served as a base for Bell & Ross’ important expansion into the BR niche.

The new Bell & Ross BR Vintage watches offer a design that looks authentically like a military watch manufactured between the forties and sixties. The difference is in the quality of the materials and the manufacturing. The domed crystal is a very subtle, yet striking example of a quality upgrade. Before the Eighties, synthetic sapphire was not used in watchmaking. Acrylic plastic was used instead, as it is very easy to work with and does not shatter like glass.

Because of its structural weakness, the acrylic crystals were often domed or raised in order to protect the watch from impact, but were prone to crack in the process. Scratching a plastic crystal is also very easy to do. Today sapphire has become the standard for luxury watches and Bell & Ross devised a way to sculpt the extremely hard corundum (the mineral name for sapphire) into the elevated shapes of the past. The sapphire crystal’s irregular form is both esthetically pleasing and structurally strong thanks to its thickness and shape.

Classic Style
Under the nostalgic, domed crystal lies a dial that is a key element in defining the BR Vintage models as Bell & Ross watches. A side-by-side comparison between the BR V123 Heritage and BR-03 92 Heritage (seen at the end of the video posted below) shows this very clearly.

The new Bell & Ross collection presented to SwissTV at Basel World 2010

The beige numeral and index hour markers and bold hands are a direct product of the company’s design philosophy – the same philosophy that links every Bell & Ross watch to the clean, highly legible design of professional instruments.

Bell & Ross design principles are also captured on the case. The flat, strong bezel and black “carbon finish” mirror those on the square BR timepieces. The strap that was conceived for the Vintage BR is thicker and is punched with rectangular holes giving the new models an even more distinct character.

The movements, while very important, don’t bring much new to the table. The BR Vintage models are equipped with the same Swiss, automatic movements that are already in use in other Bell & Ross watches. As before, “123″ will identify an automatic three-hand configuration with small seconds and date window at six o’clock, and “126″ denominates an self-winding chronograph with date at four thirty.

The Bell & Ross BR Vintage collections draw inspiration from professional watches of the past, the distinct design principles of the manufacturer, modern advances in watchmaking, and the original Bell & Ross Vintage collections that helped elevate the company to the level of a world class brand in the first place.

The Final Word
The BR Vintage 123 and 126 Heritage shown in the video on www.bellross.com are the flagship pieces for the new collections. They capture the vintage style especially well thanks to beige hands and markers. For years companies have been reviving styles of the past. Fender makes “vintaged” Relic Guitars, the Dodge Charger and Chevy Camaro have been remodelled to reflect their origins in more detail.

Whether it be by reissuing vintage models or imitating the effects of time with the use of beige markers and hands to emulate the discoloring of white tritium over time, the watch industry itself has taken notice: the products that so many of the world’s affluent consumers enjoyed their youth with are making their way back.

Marco is a specialist of Bell & Ross watches at Matt Baily

For the last week of Baselworld I wanted to do something a little different, the constant round of parties and entertainment were beginning to take their toll. As a journalist we are often in a very privileged position, we are able to swan around the show and sometimes people are happy to see us and sometimes not. However, I have never myself had the opportunity to take the stand on a watch fair and so I thought that it was about time I put my money where my month was and got on the other side of the table for a change.

I should point out first that I have done this at other trade shows for computers so I’m not a novice, but not for many years and those intervening  years have not been altogether kind both  physically and mentally. Secondly after the weekend the crowds are considerably lighter so I certainly wasn’t going in at the front-end of the war!!

I had mentioned this idea to Peter Speake-Marin and he very kindly agreed to let me loose on his clients and friends, which if you’ve ever met me is a pretty brave thing to do. The choice of PSM was not at random, by choosing an English watchmaker I was reducing the client’s expectations that I speak good French, but also I wanted to learn much more about the people and personalities that inhabit the world of independent watchmakers up close and PSM knows a lot of people.

So bright and early, 10:00am is early to me, I presented myself at “The Dream Factory”, washed, brushed and ready to go. As we’ve discussed previously “The Dream Factory” is the Baselworld home to Urwerk, MB&F, Christophe Claret and Speake-Marin situated in “The Palace” which was a superior tent arrangement opposite the Ramada hotel. The room was pleasant at 10:00, but the weather forecast was for warm temperatures for the next few days, the tent had heating but no air-conditioning, it was going to get warm!

It soon became clear that the main task for the two days was to keep everything moving smoothly. Watches are needed from the safe, from the front display cabinets and coffee keeps the wheels turning. The main halls at Basel are extremely busy, and if you want to see a watch there are plenty of people to help you, but at the big brands you will never meet a watchmaker face-to-face and never learn the real details; marketing yes, talking movements and cases? Rarely.

The independents are very different and rightly so. To spend thousands on a watch you want to know where your money is going and so if you want to shake the hand of the man who made it, it’s literally no problem. Here you will find the specialist press, for instance The Watch Lounge, all languages and cultures, investigating what they hope is the cutting edge of the industry. The big brands do make an appearance from time to time, not sure if it is just general interest or scouting out what is going on, and the opportunity to lock horns with a big brand’s marketing manager is a fun thing to do.

A custom made Speake-Marin Serpent Calendar hand-engraved by master engraver Kees Englebarts.

There are several things that I would take away from my time on the stand, first it’s hard work; standing for that length of time is tough on the back. How some of them manage to do the whole show I don’t know.

Then there is the fact of being nice to so many people for such a long time, no matter what they say or ask; you know it’s not that hard. I would say most of the people, on the other stands, clients and friends are some of the nicest and most genuine people you could wish to meet. People who search out these watchmakers have a lot of traits in common and this makes them interesting. In my two days I don’t think I met anyone I wouldn’t want to meet again, and I met a lot I would very much want to meet again.

Next are people from the other brands; what a great bunch of guys they are and certainly a lot of fun, a mine of interesting information and people who are lucky enough to do a job they quite clearly love. I won’t detail some of the conversations, I see no reason to smear the guilty, but doing this job you will learn a lot.

The Final Word
Should you ever find yourself lucky enough to get a chance to do this I would thoroughly recommend it, the days are long, wear comfy shoes, drink plenty of fluids, don’t drink too much alcohol in the evenings and keep smiling. You will get to borrow a brand watch to where on the stand, hooray, and then give it back, boo, and feel like a million dollars in-between.

I would like to thank Peter Speake-Marin for the fantastic opportunity to help out, and I hope I didn’t put off any buyer. To all our readers out there if someone in the future gives you the same chance I had take it, your feet will hurt but you will have a great time

The 38th Baselworld Show has wound up with smiles all round: firstly from the Swiss exhibitors, with confirmation of the signs of recovery recorded in January and February of this year; then from the visitors in their response to the superb pieces created by Switzerland’s watch and jewellery makers; and, finally, with attendance up on last year, from the organisers.

Recovery confirmed for Swiss watchmakers
2010 started out on a positive note, with Swiss watch exports on the rise for the first time in fifteen months (+ 2.7% in value terms in January and + 14.2% in February), and these signs of recovery were confirmed at Baselworld, the sector’s most important barometer. While performance varied from one brand to another, there was one constant, irrespective of markets or positioning: the large stocks that have weighed on retailers’ budgets since the end of 2008 are being absorbed. There is now an urge to buy, made possible by a renewed availability of liquidity.

Another significant feature of the show was the return of American buyers, who had practically deserted it in 2009. Beyond the obvious business perspectives, their very presence symbolises a general upturn, considering that it was in the United States that the financial crisis began before spreading around the world. Backed by these signs of a lasting recovery, Swiss watchmakers are banking on second-half
growth this year comparable to the figures achieved in 2007 and 2008, depending on the region.

Watchmakers opt for a blend of tradition and innovation
This year’s timepieces display considerable mechanical originality, as though Switzerland’s watchmakers wished to pay tribute to the impressive patrimony they all share. While the crisis put an end to any kind of ostentation, 2010’s creations focus on the métiers d’art. Rarely has finishing achieved such heights of
sophistication in watches of unpretentious refinement. Discretion, moreover, seems to be a must where elegance is concerned, as testified by the ladies’ watches, with brands opting for small, even ultra-small, models to highlight their precious character. The men’s 2010 models, like those for women, display a refined
aesthetics, the guarantee of good taste capable of defying the dictates of fashion.

Switzerland’s jewellers
Results for Switzerland’s jewellers have been more mixed. While brands benefiting from a strong name have skilfully overcome these difficult times, designers with small advertising budgets have had trouble making any impact. Getting people to buy has proved more difficult, especially as stocks remained relatively high, which is not the case in the watch sector. Despite a certain overcautiousness amongst buyers – Europeans mainly – exhibiting at Baselworld has proved to be an imperative for Switzerland’s jewellers. Getting oneself known, communicating and making contacts today appear to be the determining factors for success tomorrow.

True to their values, our jewellers have confidence in the future and are committed to putting quality and reliability above everything else. This year’s Swiss jewellery pieces at Baselworld embody the most striking expression of this philosophy: aesthetic research, new alloys offering original nuances in gold, palladium or platinum and, above all, extraordinarily fine hand-finishing work.

Related branches confident in the recovery
Once again, Europe has confirmed its position as the manufacturing centre for the watch and jewellery sector, while South America continues to grow in importance, confirming the trend started last year. There were, however, fewer visitors from the Gulf and Asia at the related branches’ stands. In general, the crisis has prompted a certain wait-and-see policy, shown by a hesitation to invest in production tools.

Nevertheless, the recovery in the watch sector should have a knock-on effect in the related branches over the next few months. While this is bound to take some time, there have already been encouraging signs among suppliers on the job front.

A “good show”
Baselworld 2010 will go down as a “good show” for the Swiss exhibitors, even though there was no repeat of the records attained in 2007 and 2008. The size, quality and reputation of the show, the attendance figures and holding it during the first three months of the year have all laid the groundwork for a robust and lengthy upturn for the whole watch, jewellery and related branches sector. See you next year at Baselworld 2011, from 24 to 31 March !

BASELWORLD 2010 in figures
> Date 18 to 25 March 2010
> Visitors 100,700 | + 7%
> Media representatives 2,900
> Exhibitors 1’915
> Swiss brands 456
> Exhibition space 160,000 m2
> Dates 2011: 24 to 31 March
> Dates 2012: 8 to 15 March
> Dates 2013: 25 April to 2 May

The second week of Baselworld is much more relaxed than the first, there are less people and the staff feel less under pressure. This usually means more time spent with the watches and the chance to ask more questions.

DeWitt is of course not a an entirely new name in the market, but having been founded in the last five years they have come a long way. Their products are not always widely distributed so you might struggle to find a shop near to you, but if you have a supplier I would recommend looking them up.

Previously my major interaction with the brand has been that their factory is on my way to work at the radio station; it’s a largely anonymous grey/blue building in an industrial estate, but with the wonderful DeWitt branding of wheels and cogs on the side of it.

For my money the new Twenty-8-eight (shown above), so-called because it was designed on August 28^th, is the highlight of this year’s new offerings. The proportions seem right, the ratio of height to diameter is good, the weight is excellent, not too heavy and dial’s just fantastic.

The guilloche is of the finest quality having been created by the in-house team on 18^th and 19^th century tools. I think these give a far superior finish compared to modern machines, deeper and crisper. This is finished off with a black gold which brings out the ridges and valleys into higher relief. You have a choice between a tourbillon or a straight automatic, and personally I would go with the automatic. DeWitt calls it an “urban classic” and I would have to agree with that, it’s a very classy timepiece.

Whilst still highly attractive the tourbillon is just a little less appealing in my eyes and the bump in price certainly makes it seem not as good value for money. A nice touch though is the tribute to the founder with the guilloche in a beautiful “W” pattern.

DeWitt’s superb Academia Tourbillon Force Constante A Chain

One of the more unique aspects of the brand’s approach to manufacturing is that each watch is assembled by one watchmaker from start to finish, and to mark this, each watch sports a plate with the engraved signature of the maker.  So if you are the owner of one of DeWitt’s fine watches you can even go and meet the person who made it and perhaps shake their hand.

A trend that has to be taken seriously over the next few years is the use of constant force. The tourbillon isn’t quite ready to step down as the high complication of choice, but most constant force movements are considerably cheaper to manufacture if a little less flashy. The other big development at this year’s Baselworld is the use of the chain and as a technical “tour de force” DeWitt have put all three into one watch; the Academia Tourbillon Force Constante A Chaine.

The in-house built tourbillon passes power to the constant force mechanism from where the force is provided to the movement at the same level regardless of the amount of winding. The chain, made from 192 individual parts, is assembled by machine; this is a very difficult thing to accomplish as the force used to bind the chain must remain constant for each link otherwise the chain will buckle and stick during operation. The chain operates an intermediate wheel which, when the watch is wound, moves the power reserve indicator which slides against an enameled scale.

The Final Word
The future looks good for DeWitt, the new models appear to feature the right functions coming to the market at the right time. I hope sometime in the near future to take a trip around the factory, maybe on my way home from work one summer’s evening.

As our exclusive coverage of Basel World 2010 draws to a close we thought we would save the best to last. Ian Skellern, reputed photographer and industry consultant, has suggested that if this particular piece was not the absolute highlight of the show it certainly ranks as one of the best new creations this year and we tend to agree. The watch we are talking about of course is the all new Rebellion T-1000 from Swiss watch-maker Rebellion. If you’re wondering what the ‘1000’ in the title stands for you’ll soon find out.

Breaking All The Rules
This is the second piece we covered from Rebellion here on The Watch Lounge, with the first being the Predator we told you about here. Like the Predator, the all new T-1000 takes its design cues from motor racing and has also been created in conjunction with world famous watch designer Eric Giroud (whom we interviewed here just a few months ago.)

However, its not the T-1000’s looks that make it truly unique, although they certainly do stand out in their own right and will be discussed in more detail later, it’s the movement that sets this timepiece apart from others.

The generally accepted power reserve level for a manually wound movement is typically somewhere between 48 and 72 hours, although some movements do offer a slightly higher reserve. The Rebellion T-1000 has a mind-blowing power reserve of 1,000 hours! (hence the name). That means you can wind it today and it would still be keeping perfect time in over a month’s time!

And in case you were wondering, yes it is some kind of record, a world record in fact.

In order to generate this truly impressive power-reserve Rebellion designed a patented system that uses no less than six (that’s right, six!) mainspring barrels that are wound by a specially designed lever that hinges up-wards from the case. When the lever is not being used to wind the movement it sits flush on the top of the case and simply becomes part of the watch’s unique aesthetic appeal. In order to distribute the energy generated evenly the six barrels are wound in parallel via a central prop shaft which drives two small chains. In order to maintain the regular power supply to the regulator at an optimum level, however, the mainsprings discharge in series (2 x 3).

It all sounds very complex and trust us it is. So rather than trying to go into any more detail about how the winding process works and so on, we’ve just included this very cool video from Ian Skellern of how it looks:

The design itself is another matter altogether. Time is displayed via a vertical roller-display and the wearer can observe the double balance tightly controlling the release of power at the 6 o’clock position. Because of the unique design of the movement it almost appears like the time display is floating in the middle of the case and the font and presentation style are very reminiscent of race cars. Although this is a highly complex piece it is incredibly legible and very easy to read which is hugely important in racing, even if this particular piece is never likely to see any track time.

Making sure that you can keep an eye on the unwinding of the immense power store, a window in the side of the case reveals one of the mainspring barrels, with markers providing a natural “Fuel Gauge” of the state of the power reserve.

The Final Word
The T-1000 is one of those special pieces that truly transcends modern watch-making. Hate it or love it from an aesthetic perspective it is impossible to deny the technical and mechanical achievements that this amazing piece represents. As Bill Gates once famously said, “innovate or die”, and it seems that the very intelligent people over at Rebellion have got the right idea.

This is not just about creating a timepiece with a 1,000 hour power reserve, this is about the realization of a concept that was previously thought to be unworkable and bringing it to fruition to a point where it is ready to be taken to the market. If companies like Rebellion stop pushing boundaries and breaking the rules, then the industry will stagnate and eventually cease to be relevant.

So with that in mind, we take our collective hats off to these veritable geniuses who dare to have a vision.

A special thanks again to Ian Skellern for his fantastic photography and video.

One of our favourite brands here at The Watch Lounge is Maîtres du Temps. It’s difficult to put one’s finger on exactly what the attraction is, but I think it is two things; the watches are very classy and the people behind the company are so nice. After a great meeting with them during SIHH this year, I had the chance to catch up with them again at Baselworld and see what they have been up to.

Chapter One Round
Sadly no “Chapter 3″ to see this year, but they did have the “Chapter 1″ movement in a new case. The first models of both “Chapters” were housed in a tonneau case and personally I like this almost oblong case, although it is not a shape typically in favor with the market. I think it is an inherently balanced design and has a strong Art Deco feel with the sculptured case and the heavily domed top. It is strongly reminiscent of classic Longines 9L cases and other curvex models of the 20s and 30s, but of course larger, heavier and more expensive!!

The new case for the “Chapter One” is a return to the more traditional round shape with extensions on the top and bottom to hold the “roller” complications. This gives the watch a far more aggressive look and at the same time further contributes to its solid make. Not sure if this is absolutely necessary given that the original tonneau case is already big and certainly takes no prisoners, but there can be no doubt that the new case will appeal to a wider audience. It’s still big, and perhaps slightly heavier, but still generates that feeling of quality that we have come to expect from Maitres du Temps.

The Final Word
So what can we look forward too? Well, we will see a number of variations based around the rollers. While devilishly complicated to make, we can expect to see language variations such as Russian and Chinese, plus a few more ideas they aren’t quite ready to talk about.

Can’t wait!!

It’s possible you may have never heard of them before but Swiss watch-maker Milus has been creating exceptional masterpieces for just under a century, and at Basel World this year they carried on this proud tradition with the presentation of the breathtaking Tirion Répétition Minutes TriRetrograde.

Engineering Art Work
At Milus the company’s watch-making philosophy of combining art with mechanical complexity permeates throughout all of the brand’s creations. This latest piece is no exception and represents the culmination of over 2 years of intense development. Not only does it look sensational but it also firmly secures the brand’s position as a complicated watch-maker, showcasing their impressive technical credentials.

Offering an in-house calibre which features a combination of minute repetition and tri-retrograde complications the all new Tirion represents a significant milestone for Milus. Whilst the Minute Repeater is by no means a new complication, proficient execution of this novelty is considered by many to be one of the greatest challenges in modern day mechanical watch-making.

It’s All In The Sound
The achievement of a pure tone and a full, rich sound is only possible through the craftsman’s exceptional skills and precise attention to detail during manufacture, representing the absolute pinnacle of watch-making and ensuring that top quality Minute Repeaters are highly desired by watch connoisseurs the world over.

The two steel hammers of the striking mechanism are positioned on stainless steel bearings and create a deep tone for the hours, a high and deep double strike for the quarter-hours and a high tone for the minutes when they strike the two gongs wound around the movement causing them to vibrate. In order to ensure a pure sound, the gongs must not touch one another.

As one might expect the length of the gongs as well as the securing of the base to the bottom plate must be adjusted to the desired “a” and “c sharp” notes in several steps to ensure the best sound possible. As each piece is individually manufactured by hand, minimum tone variations can occur therefore giving each watch its own individual sound.

As a final touch, the Minute Repeater complication is activated by a push-piece at 9 o’clock with an engraved clef instead of the more traditional slide mechanism. And in keeping with the brand’s philosophy of combining art with mechanical brilliance the flywheel which regulates the striking rhythm and guarantees perfect time can be observed through the sapphire viewing glass on the back of the watch.

Keeping It In-House
As we mentioned earlier, the Tirion is animated by an in-house calibre, more specifically the superbly decorated M08-35RM calibre which has been certified by COSC and produced exclusively for this timepiece. Representing the use of the latest in micro-technical technologies and innovative materials this is a movement that has been designed to perform at a consistently optimum level. Add to that the double complications and a power reserve of 90 hours and we see that this latest piece really is a celebration of Milus’ watch-making prowess.

Attention To Detail
Equally as impressive is the brand’s meticulous attention to detail in the aesthetic design of this unique piece. The movement base is circular-grained, the bridges are finished with a sunray pattern and the steel parts have been treated to a traditional high-gloss polish with zinc. The 46mm round case is comprised of nine individual parts and is presented in 18K red gold.

The dial itself is quite simplistic looking and semi-skeletonized, allowing for uninterrupted views of the spectacular calibre below, as well as the fascinating play of the three hands which spring back at 20-second intervals. Positioned at 6, 10 and 2 o’clock, the flying dance of the blued hands is completed with virtuoso ease. Once one of the hands has passed through its 20-second path, it jumps back to its original position whilst the next hand starts its journey. The date is indicated by a blued hand whose counterweight is designed in the form of the Milus sign.

Presented in a limited edition of just 50 pieces the Tirion comes equipped with a hand-sewn strap in the finest alligator leather.

The Final Word
Undeniably this new piece from master watch-makers Milus is a celebration of the brand’s technical achievements and demonstrates resoundingly just what they’re capable of. Importantly though the brand has remained true to its own philosophy and has not sacrificed aesthetic appeal in the name of technical competence or vice versa, rather the two complement each other to create a truly exceptional timepiece. Furthermore, the placement of the retrograde functions within the centre of the dial ensure that it is still remarkably easy to read the clean dial whilst at the same time enjoying the complex show that is happening in the middle.

This all new Tirion Répétition Minutes TriRetrograde is a real winner for us and we look forward to seeing more of these creations from this under-the-radar watch maker.