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Van Cleef & Arpels et la montre pour femme : l’histoire d’amour continue
Quatre ans après la création des Complications Poétiques, Van Cleef&Arpels a annoncé, lors d’une conférence de presse dans son fief de la Place Vendôme, trois nouvelles évolutions de cette gamme majeure pour le joailler.
L’esprit reste inchangé : proposer aux femmes une nouvelle approche du temps, véritablement conçue pour elles, qui ne soit pas une émanation d’une approche masculine. D’ailleurs, Laurent Picciotto, créateur de Chronopassion et ambassadeur de la collection, n’y va pas par quatre chemins : « Trop longtemps, la Suisse a été mysogine et macho ». Au moins, les choses sont dites.
Au départ, il y a la manière de concevoir le produit : on ne part pas de la technique, mais de l’idée créatrice, et l’on voit ensuite si elle est réalisable. « Tout commence donc au bureau de design », souligne Louis de Meckenheim, Directeur Marketing Horlogerie chez Van Cleef&Arpels. « La conception débute avec les designers joaillers, puis on se rapproche de concepteur du mouvement pour savoir ce qui est réalisable, et ce qui risque d’être problématique », souligne-t-il.
La marque propose donc des variations poétiques autour du temps, matérialisées par des montres pour lesquelles la technique pure est reléguée au second plan. L’amour, la féérie, Paris, le ciel étoilé, sont autant de variations des Complications Poétiques qui permettent à chaque femme d’appréhender le temps selon sa propre sensibilité. « D’ailleurs, il serait bien difficile de définir le profil type de nos clientes ; nosplus jeunes ont moins de 30 ans ! » , s’amuse-t-on chez la joailler. De même, « alors que nous pensions offrir aux femmes une expérience d’achat isolée, on s’aperçoit que certaines de nos clientes reviennent année après année pour découvrir quelles nouvelles variations autour du thème du temps nous avons imaginées pour elle ». Aujourd’hui, Van Cleef&Arpels propose une vingtaine de références de ses Complications Poétiques, éditées en moyenne chacune à 100 exemplaires par an.
Toutefois, que l’on ne s’y trompe pas : si la poésie dégagée par la montre reste ce qu’il y a de plus important, la technique n’est pas en reste. Un argument qui ne manquera pas de séduire le public masculin, bien souvent présent aux côtés de leur moitié pour l’achat des modèles les plus aboutis. Ainsi, la plupart des modèles présentés aujourd’hui, sur base ETA notamment, comportent des mouvements à rattrapante. A aiguille rattrapante ? Assurément, non. L’aiguille n’existe pas dans les Complications Poétiques. On parle de baguette magique, de papillons, d’étoiles, d’ailes de fée. Chez Van Cleef&Arpels, on ne regarde pas l’heure, on regarde le temps. Et ça n’a rien à voir.
« Nous avons voulu créer des montres qui accompagnent nos clientes dans l’évolution de leur vision du temps », analyse Louis de Meckenheim, Directeur Marketing Horlogerie. « A 30 ans, on n’a pas le même rapport au temps qu’à 60 ans. Nous avons donc conçu nos modèles de façon à ce qu’ils puissent offrir différents niveau de lecture du temps, pour rester en harmonie permanente avec la vie de nos clientes ». La collection est donc pensée pour accompagner leur propriétaire tout au long de sa vie. Chaque cliente découvrira au fil du temps une foule de détails conçue par Van Cleef&Arpels : du rubis qui ne se dévoile qu’une fois par an un certain jour de mai, en passant par les vibrations des papillons des secondes, ou au fugace baiser des amoureux, chaque montre recèle un nombre infini de détails qui se dévoileront au fil du temps.
En conclusion
Difficile de ne pas adhérer à la présentation faite par Van Cleef&Arpels de ses Complications Poétiques 2010. C’est aujourd’hui une collection mature, d’une exécution remarquable et d’une cohérence sans faille. La marque tire le meilleur parti à la fois de son ADN joailler et horloger. Chaque pièce propose un univers poétique inédit, subtil, d’une élégance rare, et est dotée d’une vraie personnalité propre, tout en s’intégrant avec harmonie dans une collection complète. A se demander pourquoi la montre pour femme n’a pas toujours été pensée comme cela… .
What do you think? Leave a comment. | Filed under Brands In Focus, Exclusives and Previews, New This Week
Maîtres du Temps– The Story Of The Masters Of Time (Part 2)
Chapter One represented advancements in watch making never before thought possible.
Welcome to Part Two of our two-part special on Master Watchmaker Maîtres du Temps. If you missed Part One earlier this week, you can find it here.
Selling The Dream
“When Steven first told me about his idea, I think I may have laughed…” chuckles Peter Speake-Marin, an extraordinary independent watch maker in his own right and (as he would become) a hugely important member of the Maîtres du Temps team.
This unintended reaction was expressive of Speake-Marin’s incredulity at what Holtzman was proposing. Whilst the concept seemed straightforward the reality was far different.
The proposed groundbreaking collaboration would mean the constant juggling of a myriad of ever present complexities, not the least of which were conflicting schedules and ideologies. Yet the allure of what could potentially be achieved was simply too much to resist.
“It definitely wasn’t easy”, reflects Holtzman, “there were a lot of people out there who thought what I was proposing simply could not be done.” Unperturbed, however, he pushed on, calling on the innumerable contacts he had amassed within the industry over his extensive career.
Thanks to his long-standing relationship with master watchmakers Roger Dubuis and Christophe Claret, Holtzman was able to form the core of his first collaborative effort. In a flash of brilliance he recruited the talented Speake-Marin to manage the project and act as a medium between the two master watch makers, both students of very opposing schools of thought.
Almost from the outset though, the new team faced considerable challenges. “Effectively we had brought together three different styles, three different schools of watchmaking if you will and so everyone wasn’t always on the same page” Holtzman reveals.
The Masters at work – Daniel Roth and Peter Speake-Marin (right) review finishing details on the Chapter Two movement – image courtesy of Maîtres du Temps.
Each maker had a different point of view on the correct design, manufacture and assembly protocols and so often unexpected issues arose. He credits Speake-Marin’s direct approach and experience with ensuring that the project kept on track, praising his willingness to tackle tough issues and force decisions to be made.
On the flip side, however, it was also this creative process that Holtzman found the most rewarding. Each of the members of this elite team knew each other previously but not well and whilst they initially displayed some reluctance to working together, they soon realised how much they had to share with and learn from each other.
“It was truly a gift” Holtzman recalls, “to be able to watch them teach other and pass on unique skills they had acquired in their own experiences. To witness it all coming together and seeing these people learning and working together was simply amazing.”
The Culmination of Collaboration
The end result of the first piece created by Maîtres du Temps was nothing short of mind-blowing. Representing advances in watchmaking not previously thought possible, Chapter One was the first wristwatch to ever feature a tourbillon with mono-pusher column wheel chronograph, retrograde date, and retrograde GMT, as well as moon phase and day of the week on their own rolling bars.
What is even more impressive, however, is the legibility of a piece that is so exceptionally complex. The ease of both reading and adjusting Chapter One’s many indications disguises the fact that this is a world-first combination of complications crafted from 558 components.
Chapter One – a world-first combination of complications crafted from 558 components.
Chapter Two was equally as impressive featuring an instantaneous triple calendar, big date, day indication on roller, month indication on roller, sub-seconds and an automatic winding mechanical movement. It was this movement that really established the technical qualifications of Chapter Two, incorporating the mechanism responsible for driving the rollers. Whilst appearing almost simple the instantaneous change of big date, day, and month on the trademark rollers represents a truly incomparable level of mechanical complexity and attests to the inventiveness of three masters involved in the process.
It was not just the watches that proved successful, however, Holtzman’s was also able to realise his other grand idea to stunning effect. Accompanied by Daniel Roth, a highly regarded independent watch maker and one of the visionaries behind Chapter Two, Maîtres du Temps went on tour.
The tour included a presentation to a select number of individuals at the Sincere Watch Academy in Singapore. Here a guest of the colloquium is pleased to meet legendary master watchmaker, Daniel Roth – image courtesy of Maîtres du Temps.
“It was fantastic” exclaims Holtzman, “being able to watch collectors sit in awe as they listened to Roth speak, lining up to get his autograph afterward. He was as mesmerized by them as they were by him, disbelieving at the attention he was receiving. It was truly a remarkable experience!” And one that he plans to replicate with each new Chapter.
The Final Word
The story of Maîtres du Temps is a truly fascinating one, filled with exceptional achievements and seemingly insurmountable hurdles. Yet throughout it all Steven Holtzman and his outstanding team have maintained their incredible focus and sense of indomitable optimism, even in the face of some of the most inconceivable challenges. Not only have they successfully created horological history and redefined the way we view high-end watchmaking, they’ve also proved that conventional wisdom doesn’t always hold true.
Where there is a will, there is almost certainly a way.
Perhaps what is most exciting though, is that with six Chapters in total planned and the release of Chapter 3 still several years away this journey is still very much at its beginning. The anticipation of what this pioneering Marque will do next is almost unbearable, but you can be absolutely certain of one thing: it will take your breath away!
Dare I say that the best is still yet to come?
* Special thanks to Steven and his team for giving me this opportunity to share with you this insight into what is a most captivating Marque. For more information please visit the official Maîtres du Temps website.
Maîtres du Temps – The Story Of The Masters Of Time (Part 1)
The superb “Chapter Two” timepiece developed and created by Master Watch Makers Peter Speake-Marin, Roger Dubuis and Daniel Roth.
The concept of Maîtres du Temps is as unique and ambitious as the spectacular timepieces the company has created. More than just a brand, Maîtres du Temps represents a mind altering shift in the way we perceive the notion of traditional, high-end watchmaking. A revolution several years in the making, this pioneering Marque has created horological history by bringing together the world’s best independent watchmakers to create timepieces that truly delight and astound.
Technically and aesthetically superior in every way, these works of art represent what is possible when masters of their craft come together to share a vision of unbridled excellence and innovation.
A Brief History
Launched to great fanfare in 2008 the company’s first piece, the magnificent Chapter One, was an instant hit with collectors and aficionados the world over. Highly lauded for its mechanical complexities and stunning visual appeal the Chapter One validated the brilliance of one man’s exceptional vision.
That man was Steven Holtzman, Founder and CEO of Maîtres du Temps and, in the eyes of some, a true genius.
Breathtaking – “Chapter One” created by Master Watch Makers Christophe Claret, Roger Dubuis and Peter Speake-Marin
Yet, this almost instant success belied the years of careful planning and consideration, the sleepless nights and the tension filled meetings which culminated in the birth of Maîtres du Temps. This journey was certainly anything but easy. Still, if anyone was up to the challenge, it was Holtzman. A veteran of the watch industry, he first made a name for himself as a key player in instilling the family-owned Gruen firm to the enviable position of the largest independent multi-brand watch distributor in North America. He then went on to found Helvetia Time, a company that specialized in the distribution of high-end watches within the United States, following this up with the establishment of Roger Dubuis North America.
It was this invaluable experience in the retailing of high-end timepieces that would go on to form the basis of Holtzman’s vision for his own brand. Having obtained an insight into the mind set of collectors and enthusiasts that many other companies can only dream of, he was now ready to take on his most ambitious challenge yet: the creation of his own watch company and the introduction of a watch the likes of which the world had never before seen.
The Vision
It is important to understand that Holtzman’s vision was multifaceted, his desire was to change the way watchmaking is perceived in more ways than one. Undeniably the basis of the brand is collaboration, bringing together the world’s best independent watchmakers and challenging them to make something truly exceptional. Yet, this concept of collaboration extended far beyond just the watchmakers.
In a complete deviation from traditional thinking rather than trying to create a product first and then sell it, Holtzman took a completely unique approach.
The First Collaborators – (L-R) Roger Dubuis, Peter Speake-Marin and Christophe Claret
At every step in the process he sought feedback from his long list of associates in the high-end watch retail business. “My thinking was that these retailers are the next closest thing to the consumers themselves” explains Holtzman. “They could give me opinions and insights that I simply could not obtain anywhere else.”
This information proved invaluable and played an instrumental role in shaping the final product. It also ensured that the pieces would appeal to as wide an audience as possible, a challenge often faced by many of the exclusive high-end independent watchmakers.
Perhaps the most ambitious of all his ideas though, was Holtzman’s dream to take his watch makers on tour. He wanted to give collectors and enthusiasts the ultra rare opportunity to meet the faces behind their highly coveted timepieces.
“Many of these watchmakers have never left Switzerland, let alone Europe. They have no concept of the high esteem they are held in or how their pieces are received around the globe” says Holtzman, expounding on the reasoning behind his bold plan. “This would be their chance to convey to enthusiasts how they feel about their creations and the challenges they faced in bringing them to fruition.”
New variations of the sublime “Chapter Two” have recently been released.
This ideology formed part of the inspiration for the brand’s identity; the Master’s of Time and flowed through into the naming of the watches. Each piece would represent a ‘Chapter’ in the story of this watchmaking journey, telling a different tale about the watchmaker and their own experiences both as an independent and as a collaborator on the Maîtres du Temps collection.
And for the first time this story would be told on an international stage by the watchmakers themselves.
It would not be easy though.
Update: Part.2 of this exclusive insight into a truly fascinating watch maker has now been published on The Watch Lounge, read it here!
Brand In Focus: Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe S.A is easily one of the most famous and expensive brands of wrist watches in the world. Over the years their incredible timepieces have been worn by a number of notable individuals, including members of royalty, movie stars and tycoons. For example, Albert Einstein was known to be a regular member on the customer list. To this day their stunning creations continue to delight and astound their wearers.
Where Did It All Begin?
The history of this masterful timepiece creator is indeed a long one with more changing over time than just the name. Today it is this rich history that guides the brand into the future.
On May 1st, 1839 two Polish immigrants, Antoine Norbert de Patek (Salesman) and François Czapek (Watchmaker) joined forces to found “Patek, Czapek & Co”. In 1844 Mr. Patek met the French watchmaker, Mr. Adrien Philippe in Paris where the latter presented his pioneering stem winding and setting system using the crown. In 1845 when Czapek decided to leave the company and to continue his activity on his own, the company name changed to “Patek & Co”.
Later on, in 1851 Mr. Philippe became officially associated with the company and it was re-baptised “Patek Philippe & Co”, before changing once more in 1901 to “Ancienne Manufacture d’Horlogerie Patek Philippe & Co, S.A.” Quite a mouthful, I’m sure you’ll agree.
Now, in 1932, the company was purchased by Charles and Jean Stern, two brothers and since then, “Patek Philippe S.A.” has remained a family owned firm, with 3rd and 4th generations at the helm in Mr. Philippe Stern, President and Mr. Thierry Stern, his son, Vice-President.
The hallmark or symbol of Philippe Patek S.A. is the Calatrava Cross. The name Calatrava has deep historical roots that plunge back to the middle-ages when in 1158 a Spanish religious order defended the Calatrava citadel against the moors. At the end of the nineteenth century, Patek Philippe adopted the emblem of the brave Spanish knights as its brand symbol, which adorns all Patek Philippe watches today.
A Rich History Of Success
The achievements of this phenomenal manufacturer throughout its storied history are as numerous as they are impressive. Patek Philippe is the creator of the most complicated mechanical watch ever made, the Calibre 89, created for the 150th anniversary of the company in 1989.
It holds 33 complications, including the date of Easter, a thermometer, time of sunrise, equation of time (the equation of time is the difference, over the course of a year, between time as read from a sundial and a clock), sidereal time (sidereal time is a measure of the position of the Earth in its rotation around its axis), and many other indicators. The Calibre 89 is also able to add a day to February for leap years while leaving out the extra day for every 100 year interval.
In addition to this they have also pioneered other revolutions in watch-making such as the perpetual calendar, chronograph, and minute repeater. However, as with every super luxury brand one of the key drawcards of the watch house to its incredibly savvy clientele is its exclusivity.
In the 150 year history of the company, they have produced approximately 600,000 timepieces in total – less than the annual production of Rolex. Please note that this is in no way intended to cast dispersions on Rolex as that brand’s heritage as a master watchmaker is indisputable. However, it does highlight the very different goals of each.
The Final Word
In my opinion Patek Philippe is unequivocally the best high-end luxury watch brand in the world. Its rich heritage and superior achievements in the world of master watchmaking set it apart from other brands and further increase its desirability. Many will never experience the chance to even hold one of these amazing timepieces let alone own one, but we can dream.
Brand In Focus: Cartier
Cartier watches are synonymous with luxury and timeless elegance. Aided by its illustrious background as a jeweler of incomparable prestige, the House of Cartier has successfully introduced watches which have transcended their time of introduction to become truly legendary.
A Brief History (That’s Not Really Brief At All!)
The jeweler was originally founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier. In 1874 his son, Alfred Cartier took over the administration of the company, but it was his sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, who were responsible for establishing the famous world-wide brand name of Cartier.
Louis retained responsibility for the Paris branch, moving to the Rue de la Paix, in 1899. He was responsible for some of the company’s most celebrated design innovations, like the legendary mystery clocks, high fashion wristwatches and exotic orientalist Art Deco designs, including the daringly colourful “Tutti Frutti” jewels. Jacques took charge of the London operation and eventually moved to the current location at New Bond Street.
Pierre Cartier established the New York Branch in 1909, moving in 1917 to the current location of 653 Fifth Avenue, the Neo-Renaissance mansion of Morton Freeman Plant, son of railroad tycoon Henry B. Plant. The Cartier flagship mansion was purchased by the company from Morton Plant and his wife, in exchange for a pearl necklace, valued at the time at $1 million.
The Turning Point
After Louis Cartier designed a wristwatch for famed Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, Cartier timepieces rapidly became known and celebrated. Throughout the early years of the 20th century, designs such as the Tank, Tortue, and the Pasha were introduced, their appeal enduring to the present day, where they still remain as timeless as ever, and are continually enriched by new and sparkling variations.
The Final Word
Today, the house of Cartier continues to be a leading force in the world of high luxury. Aficionados of prestigious mechanical watchmaking can find much to admire with Cartier, whose elite Privee collection includes timepieces that feature such horological masterpieces as the tourbillon, the minute repeater, and the perpetual calendar. At the same time, Cartier remains dedicated to creating fresh and fashionable new designs which is evidenced in every new timepiece they create.
Truly a brand of distinct and distinguished tastes.
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