That’s right Australian aficionados and collectors, you did not misread the title, we have just received official confirmation today that the highly prized Chapter Two by Maitres du Temps is available right now in Australia. However, you will have to be quick, as there is only one!

Why Does This Matter To You?

It’s simple really.

One of the most common complaints we hear from our Australian readers is that a disproportionate number of the exceptional timepieces we feature here on The Watch Lounge never quite make it to their distant shores. As a result many are forced to venture overseas, when possible, to satisfy their cravings for high quality craftsmanship and unparalleled expertise.

However, all that is about to change, thanks in large part to the incredible vision of one man who will be opening a brand new luxury boutique in Sydney later this year (and no, that man is not me.)

Whilst we can’t divulge too many details, what we can tell you is that this man has a superb eye for quality and a strong desire to give sophisticated Australian consumers the opportunity to buy timepieces that have never before been seen in this country let alone been available for purchase.

Which brings us back to Maitres du Temps and the Chapter Two. For those of you not familiar with the brand we strongly recommend that you read the in-depth two-part special feature we published on the brand earlier this year in conjunction with their Founder Steven Holtzman (read Part.1 here and Part.2 here.)

Some of our Melbourne and Sydney-based readers may recognize the name Peter Speake-Marin (another famed independent watch-maker) who visited Australia recently and was also one of the watch-makers behind the Chapter 2.

Now on to the piece itself.

Images are for illustration purposes only and are not of the actual piece for sale.

The Chapter Two
The Chapter Two is the result of the collaboration of two master watch-makers; Daniel Roth, a veteran of the Swiss watch industry renowned for his incredibly complicated timepieces and Peter Speake-Marin, one of the industry’s best up-and-coming independent watch-makers.

The goal was to produce the most readable triple calendar wristwatch on the market through the use of two specially made (and deceptively complex) rollers which display the month and the date. The rollers and big date are instantaneous, so the custom built automatic movement was designed to store enough energy during the day to move all of the date functions at the same time, which by all accounts took a great deal of expertise and ingenuity to perfect.

Presented in a very attractive tonneau case, the Chapter Two features bright, diamond cut, solid gold hands, small seconds and a two-disc big date indicator at the 12 o’clock position, which finishes off the watch very nicely.

As with many high-end watches, it is the little touches that really set it apart. For example, the 22K solid-gold winding rotor has a beautiful basket weave pattern (panier guilloche) engraved upon it. What many people don’t know though is this exceptional finishing is thanks to the skills of a retired master engraver known to Daniel Roth, who was persuaded to help them out only three days before he was due to dispose of all his tools. What a way to finish a career!

Images are for illustration purposes only and are not of the actual piece for sale.

What You Need To Know
As the piece has arrived early it is being offered by the seller as a pre-sale piece ahead of the opening of their brand new, Sydney-based boutique later this year. The Australian retail price of the Chapter Two is $95,000 AUD (inc GST) and as we mentioned before there is only one available for sale in Australia, so if you are interested you must act quickly.

Please submit all expressions of interest to us via email and we will put you in immediate contact with the Sydney based seller.

Please feel free to email us also if you would like any further information and stay tuned for further updates on the pending announcement of Sydney’s newest luxury boutique.

The Final Word
This is a very unique opportunity to purchase an outstanding timepiece conceived and realized by two of the world’s greatest living watch-makers. For collectors and admirers alike this timepiece is an absolute must and will undoubtedly take your breath away every time you marvel at its mechanical complexity and superior craftsmanship.

If you are interested in acquiring this piece please email us now and we will gladly connect you with the seller.

Think of one of the most unique, innovative and just down-right cool timepieces you have ever seen and then imagine it dressed in all black. That’s exactly what super exclusive luxury watch-maker Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps (MCT) have done and the result, the all new Sequential One All Black, is nothing short of superb.

In fact, quite frankly, we think this is one of the most sophisticated and seductive timepieces we’ve ever seen. However, don’t take our word for it, read on and judge for yourselves.

MCT Watches
If you’re not familiar with MCT Watches then you have most certainly been missing out. Comprised of an extremely talented team of watch-makers led by their pioneering founder Denis Giguet, MCT’s first creation, the highly acclaimed Sequential One, became an instant hit with collector’s and connoisseurs the world over.

And it’s not hard to see why.

The Sequential One is a complex masterpiece where each function is based on a combination of elements rotating on three dimensional axes, at different speeds and moments. It is more complicated than a tourbillion and each timepiece takes many days to assemble in MCT’s Geneva Atelier.

Conceived by Giguet and then designed in conjunction with another very famous player in the industry, watch designer extraordinaire Eric Giroud (read our exclusive interview with him here) the Sequential One represented the culmination of everything Giguet had learned during his time as the Head of Production at Harry Winston, overseeing the production of the famous Opus series (1 – 6).

A self-confessed passionate student of the last 200 years of Swiss high horology Giguet says he has a great respect for the watches made by his peers but at the same time acknowledges his ever present desire to create his own vision.

“I aim to ‘change the face of time’ by using new and quite unique movements and visual displays, always featuring a large and distinctive Hour indicator” he explains. “Many expensive watches have appeared with weird and wonderful designs but they often have very little functionality. Our customers tell us that they now want to buy “real” watches, not pure objects of fantasy.”

Even still, we can’t help but think there is something distinctively magical about this latest offering. Perhaps even…Black Magic?

The All Black Treatment
Available from June this year as a very special limited production model of just 20 pieces a year worldwide, we predict the Sequential One All Black will be an even bigger success with collectors than the original model.

Don’t believe us?

Well, the first 10 pieces for 2010 have already been pre-sold, so if you are considering adding one of these exceptional timepieces to your collection our advice would be not to wait too long. If you’re not yet convinced, read on and we think you might change your mind.

As you can see the distinctive case has received a carbon black DLC treatment using Gold as the base metal, resulting in an elegantly sculpted, sophisticated timepiece without compare. The black alligator leather strap, complete with dynamic red stitching, ensures that the Sequential One All Black fits snugly to your wrist, held in place by the unique MCT gold deployment buckle which is presented in a mix of gold and gold with black DLC treatment.

Just like the original model the stunning dial display comprises over-sized Hour numerals on 12 prism faces and a jumping, sapphire crystal dial, which combines with a single gold hand to indicate the Minutes. However, in this limited edition the prism faces have received a special dark coating which may seem like a minor detail but it really makes the large numerals stand out in contrast.

On the rear of the watch a sapphire exhibition case-back allows for unobstructed views of the breathtaking in-house designed and assembled movement which has been coated with Black DLC and contrasts superbly with the gold highlights.

It’s important to take a moment here to fully appreciate the significance of an in-house designed and assembled movement as it is rare these days that companies design such complex masterpieces themselves, preferring instead to outsource this task. However, for Giguet, this was never an option;

“The starting point for me in designing Sequential One was to develop and build an exclusive in-house MCT movement which we have called the ‘Jumping Sequential Hour’. It is rare for Swiss watch brands to have their own movement but for me it is a pre-requisite for any authentic, high horology company.”

As such, whilst some external suppliers were utilized to machine some of the parts required, the design and assembly process as well as quality-control testing was performed in-house by Denis and MCT’s own team of watchmakers, comprising head watch-maker Jérome Marcu, Baptiste Guye and Alexandre Bonnet. Therefore, for those fortunate enough to own one of these outstanding machines, they will have the peace of mind knowing that all servicing will also be conducted in-house by Jerôme and his highly trained team.

The Final Word
It is not often that we see limited edition re-imaginings of original models that really capture our imagination and cause us to re-examine everything we thought about their original incarnations. The MB&F HM 3 ‘The Frog’ is such a timepiece, as is the Urwerk UR-CC1 Black Cobra. Now, we have a third watch to add to this extremely exclusive list, the Sequential One All Black.

Never could we have imagined that MCT could do anything to this masterful timepiece to make us desire it any more than we already did (which was a lot for the record!) and yet they have. Not by making it more complicated or fancy, but instead by refining it and allowing its ever present elegance and sophistication to truly shine through.

What ever form of magic is at play here, black or otherwise, we have most certainly fallen under its enchanting spell.

To learn more visit MCT’s official website – www.mctwatches.com

The unveiling of MB&F’s HM No.4 on July 7 is arguably one of the most highly anticipated events on this year’s holological calendar. After presenting the mouthwatering HM4 engine at Basel World earlier this year, speculation has been raging as to what could be in store for the brand’s die hard enthusiasts the world over.

The movement itself was 3 years and 311 parts in the making, all of which were created, even the balance wheel and hairspring, specifically for this piece. Now it gives us great pleasure to present to you the very first image of all the new HM No.4 (above). Precious few details can be gleaned from the picture other than we know we want one already!

It doesn’t help things when the brand’s founder and design visionary, Maximilian Büsser, declares that the Horological Machine No4 THUNDERBOLT will be the brand’s most radical creation to date… And if you think we’re exaggerating, why don’t you check out the most recent piece MB&F unveiled just over 2 months ago, known simply as ‘The Frog‘.

All we can say is bring on July 7!

As if you needed another reason to be completely enthralled by Swiss watch-maker Urwerk. Be careful though, this one bites! Officially announced yesterday the mind-blowing UR-CC1 has shed its grey gold skin to unveil a lethal black cobra beneath. As dark as it is mesmerizing, the UR-CC1 in black AlTiN will entrance you with its aggressive style and baffling mechanical complexity. Not for the faint hearted, this is one timepiece that must be approached with respect and caution.

Superbly Complex
The stealth-like styling and relatively simple display of this truly sensational piece from Urwerk mask just how superbly complex the mechanism actually is. Holding the piece face on you confronted with two very unusual but nonetheless simplistic looking indications: jumping hours and retrograde minutes. You see, on the UR-CC1 the hours and minutes count down the time by moving linearly.

To the uninformed that sounds like a rather unremarkable statement. Right now you’re probably looking at the clean, yellow dials and thinking “sure, it looks cool, but should I really be that impressed?” The answer is a resounding yes because the mechanism you see in front of you is so deceptively complex that it took the brilliant team at Urwerk more than three years of research and development and ten prototypes to overcome the technical challenges involved in indicating the hours and minutes in a linear fashion.

Why?
We’re glad you asked!

There were three main engineering challenges standing in the way:

• The movement could develop enough energy to operate the imposing minute cylinder, which is much heavier than a traditional hand, but where to find the additional energy to function the jumping hour cylinder?

• A toothed rack moves vertically to rotate the minutes, but how to ensure that it operates smoothly in all positions, despite the varying effects of the immutable laws of gravity?

• Having solved the power issues related to operating the jumping hours, how to ensure that there is enough energy available for the world-premiere digital seconds?

Still, these seemingly insurmountable challenges were not enough to deter the team from achieving their goal, and here’s how they did it.

Let’s Get Technical
A toothed rack/lever, visible through a display panel on the side of the “Black Cobra” transfers energy from the movement to the minute cylinder. The honeycomb structure of the lever offers the two seemingly contradictory properties of lightness and rigidity. Rigidity to accurately convey the profile of the triple cam to the minute cylinder, and extremely light/low mass so as to consume as little energy as possible and so that position, gravity and shocks have minimal effect.

The mechanism used is reminiscent of those seen in automata. A toothed segment at the end of a rack exactly moves up and down following the path drawn by the triple cam – a path that has been plotted from 104 reference points. Each of the three cams drives the rack for exactly 60 minutes. At precisely 60 minutes the rack drops on the cam provoking the opposite tooth-end of the rack to fall, which triggers the retrograde mechanism and rotates the minute cylinder. And all of this happens in just 1/10th of a second!

The energy released by the retrograde mechanism is recovered and used to power the rotation of the jumping hour cylinder. Visible through a display panel in the side of the case, a 12 pointed star and positioning spring are the only distinguishable components of this innovative mechanism for recycling energy.

Two essential elements, the disk for the digital seconds and the honeycombed rack, anchor the “Black Cobra” in cutting-edge technology. Photolithography was the only method able to provide the degree of accuracy and low mass required by these two critical components – the seconds’ disk weighs just 0.09 of a gram!

The Final Word
Felix Baumgartner, Urwerk’s ingenious Master watch-maker sums it up by saying; “We have created a monster that is hungry (for energy) so we have ensured that all forces can be recycled and reused. It is a very delicate balance as we work within fixed constraints, i.e. available force, mass, and current production technology, and then we go beyond our capabilities.”

…wow.

A special thanks to Urwerk for making all this excellent technical information available to us so that we could share it with you. Make sure you jump on their Facebook Page to get all the latest updates from this truly amazing company!

Auctions and vintage watches in general are typically not an area we are well versed in, and so often we prefer to leave the topic to our far more enlightened friends over at Hodinkee.com. However, recently we became privy to some exclusive news that has not yet been formally announced to the public and so we felt the need to share it with you. Whilst it won’t appeal to all our readers, we know that we have at least one Rolex fan here on The Watch Lounge and so if nothing else, this is for him.

So What’s The News?
The upcoming auction presented by the UK-based auction house, Fellows & Sons, of course! The auction is scheduled for the 5^th of July and will include a number of exceptional second-hand timepieces from well-known brands such as Patek Philippe, Breitling, Cartier, Omega and of course Rolex. The full catalog is available to view on-line here, and we highly recommend you check it out.

Of special note for us are a couple of very well-known vintage Rolex timepieces which we think are sure to generate some buzz amongst collectors and enthusiasts alike. First is a 1973 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Explorer II superlative chronometer, with an estimate of between £8,000 and £12,000.

Although it’s probably not widely known outside of collector circles this particular model was often unofficially referred to as the Steve McQueen Explorer, which was in fact rather misleading (click here to read why). Still, misconception or not, this misnomer did cause the value of these Explorers to sky-rocket and they are still very popular with collector’s today, meaning that it may just increase in value as time goes on and so could possibly be construed as “a good investment.” (Just in case you needed a reason to buy it.)

Rolex had originally designed the watch specifically for adventurers and cave explorers, introducing more complex distinctions such as a 24 hour fixed bezel. This stainless steel 1655 model, with black matt dial and luminescent markers, is also one of the few Rolex watches which can also be used as a compass making it one of the first ultimate precision time pieces.

However, don’t put away you cheque book again just yet, as also up for auction is this superb and not to mention quite rare 1977 Rolex Comex (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertise) Diver Superlative Chronometer with an estimate of £20,000 – £30,000.

This special version of the 1665 Rolex Sea-Dweller model was created for the French commercial diving company after they experienced a technical problem with a previous model . This very special watch is suitable for some of the greatest sea beds with a depth rating of 2000 feet and was (and still is) highly regarded for its unique Triplock crown which protects the movement. Another one sure to be a big hit with collectors the iconic ‘COMEX’ logo is displayed prominently on the dial.

The Final Word
Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a novice enthusiast the Fellows & Sons watch auction is sure to have something for you. So don’t delay, check out their on-line catalog now and start making your list of all the pieces you want to add to your collection! No matter where you are in the world the excellent people at Fellows will ensure that you can participate in the auction and will not be disadvantaged in any way by distance. And don’t forget, as the saying goes, you have to be in it to win it!

Happy bidding and good luck!

Finland has long been known for its contributions to industrial design and handicrafts, and indeed their architecture is famous around the world (in the right circles anyway), but watch-making? Not quite. In fact, historically speaking the only notable time-telling devices Finland has been responsible for creating have come attached to Nokia cell-phones. That was until Stepan Sarpaneva returned to his country of birth after spending several years studying and working in Switzerland for companies like Piaget, Parmigiani, Vianney Halter and Christophe Claret.

With his latest creation, the Sarpaneva Korona K0, Stepan shows us once again that there is more than one country in the EU capable of producing exceptional, high quality and above all, original timepieces.

A Different Perspective
One of the great things about Stepan is that he is not Swiss and so his reference points and design influences are completely different. Don’t get us wrong, we are absolutely enamoured with Swiss made watches and Swiss watch-makers (heck, we’ve pretty much built a website dedicated to spreading their message)  but the simple fact is that this means that his bold creations are often unlike any of the other pieces you regularly see gracing these very pages. This does not necessarily mean they are better or worse, just simply that they are different.

The Korona K0 is no exception. Even at first glance it appears at once familiar and yet simulataneously so unlike anything you’ve seen before. The design is daring and bold but at the same time evenly tempered, in typical Finnish fashion. Still, understated or not, the exceptional quality and craftsmanship Sarpaneva is so well known for is obvious in every aspect of this new timepiece.

© Guy Lucas De Peslouan

The trade-mark spider-web like black diamond coated stainless steel dial features Superluminova indexes and the 46mm case is crafted from Grade 2 Titanium and rated to 200m water resistance with a subdued matte finish that only serves to further enhance the subtle use of color on the inner-rotating bezel.

Even just the shape of the case itself is different enough to draw your attention without being offensive and gives off a decidedly rugged, sporty vibe complemented by the rubber strap. Yet, at the same time you get the distinct impression that it would look just as at home in the board room as it would on the sports field.

What really makes this piece special though is the concept of integration. You see, Stepan has been clever enough to modify the mainplate in the Soprod A10 calibre automatic movement to incorporate the function of rotating the internal bezel. Whereas as most watches with internal rotating bezels require two crowns (one to set the time and the other to rotate the bezel) the stainless steel, diamond coated Imperial Blue timer ring on this piece is manually adjustable by moving the bajonette screw-down crown to the first position.

Very practical but also very cool.

No word on pricing as yet with availability scheduled to be sometime in 2011.

© Guy Lucas De Peslouan

The Final Word
Sometimes different can be very bad, and sometimes it can be very good. To date Stepan Sarpaneva’s unique creations have always belonged to the second category and judging by the new Korona K0 he intends to continue this trend. We can’t help but be impressed by his bold design choices and clever integration of functionality, producing timepieces that are both highly attractive and at the same time extremely practical.

Then again, he is from Finland.

To find out more visit the official website – www.sarpanevawatches.com

Ever wondered how some of your favorite, high-end boutiques select which brands they will stock in their exclusive stores? We certainly did and so to find out we sought the insight of one of the most well-known characters in the industry, Laurent Picciotto, Founder and Proprietor of the iconic Parisian boutique, Chronopassion.

Laurent was kind enough to explain to us in his own words the personal process he goes through every time he selects a new brand.

Please note this article is also available in French. Please click here.

Laurent Picciotto – Choosing New Brands For Chronopassion
Above all it’s a question of conviction. You can only really know whether a choice is good or bad either too early, or too late. As far as I’m concerned, my choices are made based upon a mix of the emotions elicited by the watches, and the intimate knowledge I have of our customers, who already have well established tastes.

If we are talking about an institutional (mainstream) brand, then it’s always possible to get information on the circuit of resellers. Nonetheless, this information can sometimes be misleading as a particular watch that has sold very well one place may never achieve any success at Chronopassion, especially because we offer such a highly selective, specialist range. For example, we have twice bowed to the insistent requests from Cartier to enter our selection. And twice, with 15 years in between, we had to stop because our clients were not interested in this brand, even though it is clear that Cartier is well sold all over the world and remains a brand with no equivalent.

It’s all about what I call the client formula. For example, we record incredible performances on some niche brands, such as Urwerk, whereas at the same time, our colleagues, even if they are also highly specialized, are unable to achieve the same results. It’s a complex alchemy.

Urwerk CC1

One thing is clear though; there is no miracle recipe in the art of selecting brands.

Moreover, what is right today may become wrong tomorrow, and sometimes within an incredibly short period of time. That’s the reason why, sometimes, we have had to drop some brands which have performed very well in the past but for whatever reason have now fallen out of favor with our clients.

For me, niche brand or not, I think the choice has to be driven emotionally by the design, the quality, and what really makes the watch different. In a certain way, these pieces have to evoke astonishment from both the amateur and the connoisseur alike, resonating on multiple levels of sophistication and understanding.

The people behind the brand also play a major role. It’s always better if there is empathy, if the brand’s vision is clear and if its organization is efficient. But once again, it’s a long-term process, sometimes we have good surprises…and sometimes we have bad.

For example, take the three latest choices I have made.

Glashütte Original Senator Diary

Glashütte Original
I discovered this brand, and worked on building a steel collection in order to create a reasonable range of technical pieces for amateurs at an affordable price. The constant will of technical innovation is particularly noticeable on the “Diary” watch, which allows the wearer to schedule an alarm up to 30 days in advance; similarly, the seconds reset which can be found on some of their models utilizes a step-by-step minutes positioning movement, in order to have the big seconds indicator perfectly align with the minutes index at the top.

The collections are deeply consistent, sober but efficient, and bring something really new to what we had already seen before.

Zenith El Primero Foudroyante 1/10th Chronograph

Zenith
After a great deal of work to reducing a range of over 600 references, M. Dufour has done a great job of redesigning and innovating, in order to take the brand where it was expected to be. The tenth of a second chronograph complication is testament to this as are the more simple and classic pieces which look like they come straight from Sinatra’s Las Vegas, exhibiting a very efficient and attractive neo-vintage look.

Ulysse Nardin Moonstruck

Ulysse Nardin
It’s not a brand, it’s a legend. Previously we worked with them for 10 years, until 2000 when we stopped for business reasons. Nonetheless, I kept on visiting the team booth in Basel every year, always smart in their way of designing very stylish and technical pieces, such as the perpetual calendar “El Toro”, or the “Moonstruck”, which has no equivalent on the market and now…we work with them again!

The Final Word
We’ll have to talk again in the future to really know if these choices have been good or not. I assume they’re all good in one way or another, in so far as all these pieces are really wonderful watches. Nevertheless, to make this concrete they must translate into successful sales because there are no ingenious or exceptional watches that remain unsold – if there are, than there is a real problem! But that’s the topic of another discussion…

Laurent Picciotto is the Founder and Proprietor of the Chronopassion Boutique in Paris. Visit their official website for more information – www.chronopassion.fr

Vous vous demandez probablement comment votre revendeur choisit ses marques parmi les plus élitistes qui soient. Nous aussi. C’est donc auprès de Laurent Picciotto, fondateur et propriétaire de l’incontournable Chronopassion à Paris, que nous sommes allés chercher l’éclairage d’un des passionnés les plus connus de la place horlogère. Laurent a eu la gentillesse de nous expliquer les motivations qui président au choix des marques avec lesquelles il s’engage.

Laurent Picciotto, le choix de nouvelles marques pour Chronopassion
C’est avant tout une affaire de conviction. On ne peut voir qu’un choix est bon trop tôt, ou trop tard. Pour ma part, les choix que je fais sont un mélange d’instinct par rapport aux émotions que procurent les montres d’une collection, et de la connaissance de notre clientèle qui à des gouts déjà bien établis.

S’il s’agit d’une marque institutionnelle, il est toujours possible de sonder le marché, mais c’est un renseignement approximatif car ce qui se vend bien chez l’un peut être très diffèrent chez nous, dans la mesure où nous offrons une sélection très spécialiste. Par exemple, nous avons cédé à  deux reprises à la demande de Cartier, qui voulait être présent chez nous. Et les deux fois, à 15 ans d’intervalle, nous avons dû arrêter car nos clients ne s’intéressaient pas à cette marque alors qu’il est clair que Cartier se vend bien dans le monde entier et reste une marque sans équivalent.

Cela touche ce que j’appellerai le format client. Par exemple, nous avons des performances remarquables sur certaines marques de niches, comme Urwerk, que certains de mes confrères même très spécialisés n’atteignent pas … L’alchimie est complexe, et je crois qu’en terme de succès de sélection de marques, il n’y à pas de recette.

Urwerk CC1

De plus, ce qui est vrai aujourd’hui peut ne pas l’être demain, et parfois avec une incroyable rapidité. Ainsi, pour ce que je  qualifierai de dérive par rapport à notre clientèle, nous avons parfois dû abandonner certaines marques avec lesquelles nous avions pourtant fait de bonnes performances par le passé.

Pour moi, marques de niche ou pas, je crois que le choix doit être émotionnel sur le dessin, la qualité, et sur ce qu’apporte cette marque au sujet. Il faut d’une certaine façon que les pièces étonnent aussi bien le novice que l’amateur pour que ce choix soit suivi d’écho (à différents niveaux).

Les personnes en face de nous jouent également un rôle déterminant. Il est souhaitable que l’empathie des équipes soit au rendez vous, que la vision de la marque pour l’avenir soit claire, que son organisation soit efficace. Mais encore une fois, cela se joue sur la durée et parfois les surprises se passent bien ou mal.

Prenez par exemple les trois derniers choix que j’ai fait.

Glashütte Original Senator Diary

Glashütte Original
J’ai découvert que cette marque, travaillé une collection en acier pour mettre à la plus grande portée des amateurs des pièces techniques à un prix attractif. Le soucis de la novation technique se traduisait de façon remarquable sur la montre “diary” qui permet de programmer une alarme sur les trente prochains jours ; de même, le reset seconde qui équipe certaines de leurs montres était complété par une crantage de la mise à l’heure des minutes, pour que la grande aiguilles des minutes soit également positionnable au top horaire de manière parfaitement alignée avec l’index des minutes. Il y a une grande cohérence des collections, sobre mais efficace et apportant véritablement quelque chose de plus à ce que nous connaissions déjà.

Zenith El Primero Foudroyante 1/10th Chronograph

Zenith
Apres un travail de recentrage de 600 références, Monsieur Dufour a fait un travail formidable de relookage et de novation pour emmener la collection là où elle était attendue. Témoin, le chronographe au dixième de seconde, mais aussi des pièces simples et classiques dignes de Franck Sinatra à Las Vegas, c’est-à-dire avec un coté neo-vintage d’une grande efficacité.

Ulysse Nardin Moonstruck

Ulysse Nardin
C’est une marque mythique avec qui nous avions travaillé pendant dix ans pour arrêter en 2000 pour des raisons commerciales. Mais chaque année je passais quand même devant leur vitrines à Bale pour rejoindre l’équipe qui brille toujours par ses nouveautés très typés et techniques, comme le calendrier perpétuel “El Toro” ou la “Moonstruck” sans équivalent sur le marché…et aujourd’hui je retravaille avec eux.

En conclusion
Il faudra se revoir pour savoir si ces choix sont bons ou pas ! Mais, intrinsèquement, ils le sont déjà, car toutes ce montres sont merveilleuses. Toutefois, pour que ce soit patent, il faut qu’elles aient un succès commercial, car il n’y à pas de génie méconnu ou d’excellentes montres qui ne se vendent pas, ou alors quand cela se produit il y à un vrai problème ! Mais ce sera l’objet d’une autre discussion…

Laurent Picciotto est le fondateur et propriétaire de la boutique Chronopassion à Paris. Pour plus d’informations, visitez leur site web à l’adresse www.chronopassion.fr

When you represent 10 generations of watchmakers it is more than understandable that you may feel a little pressure. However, if he does, Laurent Favre does not show it. Instead, he gives us a timepiece of exceptional quality and refinement; the utterly unique Phoenix 10.1.

Representing the culmination of nearly three centuries of watch-making know how, the Phoenix will both deceive you with its simplistic design and at the same time delight you with its hidden complexities.

Keeping It In The Family
Laurent can trace his watch-making heritage all the way back to 1718 thanks to an official document saved in the Neuchâtel State Archives. This document is in fact a contract between Abraham Favre and the master watchmaker Daniel Gagnebin, in which Gagnebin committed to teach Favre the profession of watch-making to the extent of his knowledge for a period of three years, thus marking the beginning of the Favre watch-making history.

Over the ensuing centuries the Favre name has continued remained involved in watch-making in one capacity or another. Now, after a lifetime of grooming Laurent has become the 10^th generation of Favre’s to heed the watch-making call. Although centuries of knowledge flow through his veins, Laurent wisely chose to spend the first years of his career learning the industry, working as the Head of Communication and later on as the Head of Product Development for a well-known Swiss brand.

Once he felt he had learnt all that he needed to, he was ready to step out and design his first piece under the A. Favre & fils’ name.

The result?

The Phoenix 10.1. A gorgeous timepiece that showcases Favre’s remarkable abilities both as a watch-maker and a product designer.

The Phoenix 10.1
Quite obviously the first thing you notice when you look at the Phoenix is that one quarter of the dial is dedicated to the date display. Called the Quantième à Grand Affichage Rotatif, this big date display is an original and patented development designed in-house by Favre. The purpose of this unique system is to optimize the number of components, therefore increasing reliability, by reducing the number of moving parts to the minimum: in this case, just two.

Not only is it supremely easy to read, it is also completely unlike anything you will find on another timepiece, ensuring that your watch stands out from the crowd for all the right reasons.

However, whilst the large date display may be the most obvious example of what makes this piece special, it is by no means the only one. To illustrate, the seemingly simplistic 41mm case is actually quite a complex assembly designed based on the principles of the Golden Ratio (φ) and the Golden Number (7) from the Pythagorean School. Unfortunately it is too difficult to explain these concepts in detail, however, the brand’s website contains an excellent series of diagrams which will walk you through the process.

Housed within the 18k white gold or Palladium 150 case and visible through the sapphire case back is a superb, manual-wind in-house calibre DB 1334/1 HENRY (a tribute to Henry A. Favre, 8th generation of the Favre watchmakers) beating at 28,000 variations per hour. A combination of modern technology and centuries of watch-making history, the exceptionally well-made movement is treated to a number of traditional finishing techniques including; chamfering, drawing, circular graining, sinks entirely done by hand, and a “Rayons de la Gloire” (Rays of Glory) machine finish on the bridges.

Parallel twin barrels with direct depth offer up to 84 hours of power reserve when fully wound, with a power reserve indicator visible through the sapphire case-back.

The Final Word
Although the Phoenix 10.1 is an exceptional timepiece, what truly makes it attractive is its relative anonymity. So far the piece has received limited coverage in watch media, although everything that has been written is, not surprisingly, very positive. As such, this represents a unique opportunity for you to acquire a piece that will not only be the envy of your peers but also truly showcase your credentials as a fine timepiece connoisseur.

Be warned though, it won’t take long before this piece becomes a big hit.

To find out more visit the brand’s official website at: www.afavrefils.com

A while ago we introduced you to the truly exceptional, one-of-a-kind Minute Repeater 2 timepiece from master craftsmen Grieb & Benzinger Platinum. Now, it gives us great pleasure to announce the all new Benzinger Boutique Collection, a unique combination of pure beauty and intricate craftsmanship designed to completely enthrall the wearer.

Think we’re exaggerating? Read on and decide for yourself.

The Benzinger Boutique Collection
Offered in white gold, pink gold and steel on request these stunning new timepieces are mostly based on manually wound movements from Unitas and showcase the extraordinary talents of Jochen Benzinger and Georg Bartkowiak. Characterized by hand-skeletonized movements, genuine hand-guilloché dials and technical modifications such as the striking position of the hour and minute displays above the dial, the Boutique Collection represents a superb combination of traditional craftsmanship and modern design.

We’ve picked out some of our favorites which we think you’re going to love too. First up is the aptly named and extremely desirable ‘Beauty and the Beast’ Collection:

The White Dragon (Beauty):

White mother-of-pearl dial, hand-created and applied dragon, white leather strap, diamond bezel, 18K White gold case, 42 mm, movement set with pavé diamonds, €32.500,00.

The Black Dragon (Beast):

Black sterling silver dial, hand-created and applied dragon, black hand-sewn alligator leather strap, 18K White gold case, 42 mm, oignon-style crown, hand-skeletonized, hand-engraved and hand-guilloché movement with flame-blued screws; black and gold finish, €20,500.

However, if you are a true connoisseur of skeletonized dials than you cannot go past the phenomenal Fancy Blossom collection. Presented in three different variations (Cherry Blossom, Coffee Blossom and Ice Blossom) these are no longer timepieces, they are superb works of art!

The Coffee Blossom

Movement completely skeletonized, engraved and engine-turned by hand, 18K White gold case with leather strap, 42 mm, diamond bezel, €25.500,00

The Final Word
It seems like more and more we are seeing a return to the traditional values of exceptional craftmanship, quality and individuality in the watch industry as high-end consumers continue to raise their expectations and demand highly-customized, unique pieces.

Whilst the new Boutique collection is designed to be more accessible (relatively speaking) than the Grieb & Benzinger Platinum series, you can be almost guaranteed you will not see a similar piece on anyone’s else wrist given the highly limited production numbers (approximately 100 pieces a year maximum). Beautifully executed, every piece in the collection demonstrates the standard of quality and attention to detail that Benzinger are renowned for.

Plus gentleman if you treat yourself to a Black Dragon and your lovely partner to a White Dragon everybody wins. Same goes for you too ladies!

If you would like to know more get on to the official Benzinger Boutique website: www.benzinger-boutique.com