Archive for the ‘Exclusives and Previews’ Category:
Korona K0 From Stepan Sarpaneva – A Guaranteed Knock Out!
© Guy Lucas De Peslouan
Finland has long been known for its contributions to industrial design and handicrafts, and indeed their architecture is famous around the world (in the right circles anyway), but watch-making? Not quite. In fact, historically speaking the only notable time-telling devices Finland has been responsible for creating have come attached to Nokia cell-phones. That was until Stepan Sarpaneva returned to his country of birth after spending several years studying and working in Switzerland for companies like Piaget, Parmigiani, Vianney Halter and Christophe Claret.
With his latest creation, the Sarpaneva Korona K0, Stepan shows us once again that there is more than one country in the EU capable of producing exceptional, high quality and above all, original timepieces.
A Different Perspective
One of the great things about Stepan is that he is not Swiss and so his reference points and design influences are completely different. Don’t get us wrong, we are absolutely enamoured with Swiss made watches and Swiss watch-makers (heck, we’ve pretty much built a website dedicated to spreading their message) but the simple fact is that this means that his bold creations are often unlike any of the other pieces you regularly see gracing these very pages. This does not necessarily mean they are better or worse, just simply that they are different.
The Korona K0 is no exception. Even at first glance it appears at once familiar and yet simulataneously so unlike anything you’ve seen before. The design is daring and bold but at the same time evenly tempered, in typical Finnish fashion. Still, understated or not, the exceptional quality and craftsmanship Sarpaneva is so well known for is obvious in every aspect of this new timepiece.
© Guy Lucas De Peslouan
The trade-mark spider-web like black diamond coated stainless steel dial features Superluminova indexes and the 46mm case is crafted from Grade 2 Titanium and rated to 200m water resistance with a subdued matte finish that only serves to further enhance the subtle use of color on the inner-rotating bezel.
Even just the shape of the case itself is different enough to draw your attention without being offensive and gives off a decidedly rugged, sporty vibe complemented by the rubber strap. Yet, at the same time you get the distinct impression that it would look just as at home in the board room as it would on the sports field.
What really makes this piece special though is the concept of integration. You see, Stepan has been clever enough to modify the mainplate in the Soprod A10 calibre automatic movement to incorporate the function of rotating the internal bezel. Whereas as most watches with internal rotating bezels require two crowns (one to set the time and the other to rotate the bezel) the stainless steel, diamond coated Imperial Blue timer ring on this piece is manually adjustable by moving the bajonette screw-down crown to the first position.
Very practical but also very cool.
No word on pricing as yet with availability scheduled to be sometime in 2011.
© Guy Lucas De Peslouan
The Final Word
Sometimes different can be very bad, and sometimes it can be very good. To date Stepan Sarpaneva’s unique creations have always belonged to the second category and judging by the new Korona K0 he intends to continue this trend. We can’t help but be impressed by his bold design choices and clever integration of functionality, producing timepieces that are both highly attractive and at the same time extremely practical.
Then again, he is from Finland.
To find out more visit the official website – www.sarpanevawatches.com
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Laurent Picciotto Of Chronopassion Talks Brand Selection
© Stéphane de Bourgies
Ever wondered how some of your favorite, high-end boutiques select which brands they will stock in their exclusive stores? We certainly did and so to find out we sought the insight of one of the most well-known characters in the industry, Laurent Picciotto, Founder and Proprietor of the iconic Parisian boutique, Chronopassion.
Laurent was kind enough to explain to us in his own words the personal process he goes through every time he selects a new brand.
Please note this article is also available in French. Please click here.
Laurent Picciotto – Choosing New Brands For Chronopassion
Above all it’s a question of conviction. You can only really know whether a choice is good or bad either too early, or too late. As far as I’m concerned, my choices are made based upon a mix of the emotions elicited by the watches, and the intimate knowledge I have of our customers, who already have well established tastes.
If we are talking about an institutional (mainstream) brand, then it’s always possible to get information on the circuit of resellers. Nonetheless, this information can sometimes be misleading as a particular watch that has sold very well one place may never achieve any success at Chronopassion, especially because we offer such a highly selective, specialist range. For example, we have twice bowed to the insistent requests from Cartier to enter our selection. And twice, with 15 years in between, we had to stop because our clients were not interested in this brand, even though it is clear that Cartier is well sold all over the world and remains a brand with no equivalent.
It’s all about what I call the client formula. For example, we record incredible performances on some niche brands, such as Urwerk, whereas at the same time, our colleagues, even if they are also highly specialized, are unable to achieve the same results. It’s a complex alchemy.
Urwerk CC1
One thing is clear though; there is no miracle recipe in the art of selecting brands.
Moreover, what is right today may become wrong tomorrow, and sometimes within an incredibly short period of time. That’s the reason why, sometimes, we have had to drop some brands which have performed very well in the past but for whatever reason have now fallen out of favor with our clients.
For me, niche brand or not, I think the choice has to be driven emotionally by the design, the quality, and what really makes the watch different. In a certain way, these pieces have to evoke astonishment from both the amateur and the connoisseur alike, resonating on multiple levels of sophistication and understanding.
The people behind the brand also play a major role. It’s always better if there is empathy, if the brand’s vision is clear and if its organization is efficient. But once again, it’s a long-term process, sometimes we have good surprises…and sometimes we have bad.
For example, take the three latest choices I have made.
Glashütte Original Senator Diary
Glashütte Original
I discovered this brand, and worked on building a steel collection in order to create a reasonable range of technical pieces for amateurs at an affordable price. The constant will of technical innovation is particularly noticeable on the “Diary” watch, which allows the wearer to schedule an alarm up to 30 days in advance; similarly, the seconds reset which can be found on some of their models utilizes a step-by-step minutes positioning movement, in order to have the big seconds indicator perfectly align with the minutes index at the top.
The collections are deeply consistent, sober but efficient, and bring something really new to what we had already seen before.
Zenith El Primero Foudroyante 1/10th Chronograph
Zenith
After a great deal of work to reducing a range of over 600 references, M. Dufour has done a great job of redesigning and innovating, in order to take the brand where it was expected to be. The tenth of a second chronograph complication is testament to this as are the more simple and classic pieces which look like they come straight from Sinatra’s Las Vegas, exhibiting a very efficient and attractive neo-vintage look.
Ulysse Nardin Moonstruck
Ulysse Nardin
It’s not a brand, it’s a legend. Previously we worked with them for 10 years, until 2000 when we stopped for business reasons. Nonetheless, I kept on visiting the team booth in Basel every year, always smart in their way of designing very stylish and technical pieces, such as the perpetual calendar “El Toro”, or the “Moonstruck”, which has no equivalent on the market and now…we work with them again!
The Final Word
We’ll have to talk again in the future to really know if these choices have been good or not. I assume they’re all good in one way or another, in so far as all these pieces are really wonderful watches. Nevertheless, to make this concrete they must translate into successful sales because there are no ingenious or exceptional watches that remain unsold – if there are, than there is a real problem! But that’s the topic of another discussion…
Laurent Picciotto is the Founder and Proprietor of the Chronopassion Boutique in Paris. Visit their official website for more information – www.chronopassion.fr
Laurent Picciotto de Chronopassion lève le voile sur la sélection de ses marques
© Stéphane de Bourgies
Vous vous demandez probablement comment votre revendeur choisit ses marques parmi les plus élitistes qui soient. Nous aussi. C’est donc auprès de Laurent Picciotto, fondateur et propriétaire de l’incontournable Chronopassion à Paris, que nous sommes allés chercher l’éclairage d’un des passionnés les plus connus de la place horlogère. Laurent a eu la gentillesse de nous expliquer les motivations qui président au choix des marques avec lesquelles il s’engage.
Laurent Picciotto, le choix de nouvelles marques pour Chronopassion
C’est avant tout une affaire de conviction. On ne peut voir qu’un choix est bon trop tôt, ou trop tard. Pour ma part, les choix que je fais sont un mélange d’instinct par rapport aux émotions que procurent les montres d’une collection, et de la connaissance de notre clientèle qui à des gouts déjà bien établis.
S’il s’agit d’une marque institutionnelle, il est toujours possible de sonder le marché, mais c’est un renseignement approximatif car ce qui se vend bien chez l’un peut être très diffèrent chez nous, dans la mesure où nous offrons une sélection très spécialiste. Par exemple, nous avons cédé à deux reprises à la demande de Cartier, qui voulait être présent chez nous. Et les deux fois, à 15 ans d’intervalle, nous avons dû arrêter car nos clients ne s’intéressaient pas à cette marque alors qu’il est clair que Cartier se vend bien dans le monde entier et reste une marque sans équivalent.
Cela touche ce que j’appellerai le format client. Par exemple, nous avons des performances remarquables sur certaines marques de niches, comme Urwerk, que certains de mes confrères même très spécialisés n’atteignent pas … L’alchimie est complexe, et je crois qu’en terme de succès de sélection de marques, il n’y à pas de recette.
Urwerk CC1
De plus, ce qui est vrai aujourd’hui peut ne pas l’être demain, et parfois avec une incroyable rapidité. Ainsi, pour ce que je qualifierai de dérive par rapport à notre clientèle, nous avons parfois dû abandonner certaines marques avec lesquelles nous avions pourtant fait de bonnes performances par le passé.
Pour moi, marques de niche ou pas, je crois que le choix doit être émotionnel sur le dessin, la qualité, et sur ce qu’apporte cette marque au sujet. Il faut d’une certaine façon que les pièces étonnent aussi bien le novice que l’amateur pour que ce choix soit suivi d’écho (à différents niveaux).
Les personnes en face de nous jouent également un rôle déterminant. Il est souhaitable que l’empathie des équipes soit au rendez vous, que la vision de la marque pour l’avenir soit claire, que son organisation soit efficace. Mais encore une fois, cela se joue sur la durée et parfois les surprises se passent bien ou mal.
Prenez par exemple les trois derniers choix que j’ai fait.
Glashütte Original Senator Diary
Glashütte Original
J’ai découvert que cette marque, travaillé une collection en acier pour mettre à la plus grande portée des amateurs des pièces techniques à un prix attractif. Le soucis de la novation technique se traduisait de façon remarquable sur la montre “diary” qui permet de programmer une alarme sur les trente prochains jours ; de même, le reset seconde qui équipe certaines de leurs montres était complété par une crantage de la mise à l’heure des minutes, pour que la grande aiguilles des minutes soit également positionnable au top horaire de manière parfaitement alignée avec l’index des minutes. Il y a une grande cohérence des collections, sobre mais efficace et apportant véritablement quelque chose de plus à ce que nous connaissions déjà.
Zenith El Primero Foudroyante 1/10th Chronograph
Zenith
Apres un travail de recentrage de 600 références, Monsieur Dufour a fait un travail formidable de relookage et de novation pour emmener la collection là où elle était attendue. Témoin, le chronographe au dixième de seconde, mais aussi des pièces simples et classiques dignes de Franck Sinatra à Las Vegas, c’est-à-dire avec un coté neo-vintage d’une grande efficacité.
Ulysse Nardin Moonstruck
Ulysse Nardin
C’est une marque mythique avec qui nous avions travaillé pendant dix ans pour arrêter en 2000 pour des raisons commerciales. Mais chaque année je passais quand même devant leur vitrines à Bale pour rejoindre l’équipe qui brille toujours par ses nouveautés très typés et techniques, comme le calendrier perpétuel “El Toro” ou la “Moonstruck” sans équivalent sur le marché…et aujourd’hui je retravaille avec eux.
En conclusion
Il faudra se revoir pour savoir si ces choix sont bons ou pas ! Mais, intrinsèquement, ils le sont déjà, car toutes ce montres sont merveilleuses. Toutefois, pour que ce soit patent, il faut qu’elles aient un succès commercial, car il n’y à pas de génie méconnu ou d’excellentes montres qui ne se vendent pas, ou alors quand cela se produit il y à un vrai problème ! Mais ce sera l’objet d’une autre discussion…
Laurent Picciotto est le fondateur et propriétaire de la boutique Chronopassion à Paris. Pour plus d’informations, visitez leur site web à l’adresse www.chronopassion.fr
Behold: The Phoenix 10.1, By A. Favre & fils
When you represent 10 generations of watchmakers it is more than understandable that you may feel a little pressure. However, if he does, Laurent Favre does not show it. Instead, he gives us a timepiece of exceptional quality and refinement; the utterly unique Phoenix 10.1.
Representing the culmination of nearly three centuries of watch-making know how, the Phoenix will both deceive you with its simplistic design and at the same time delight you with its hidden complexities.
Keeping It In The Family
Laurent can trace his watch-making heritage all the way back to 1718 thanks to an official document saved in the Neuchâtel State Archives. This document is in fact a contract between Abraham Favre and the master watchmaker Daniel Gagnebin, in which Gagnebin committed to teach Favre the profession of watch-making to the extent of his knowledge for a period of three years, thus marking the beginning of the Favre watch-making history.
Over the ensuing centuries the Favre name has continued remained involved in watch-making in one capacity or another. Now, after a lifetime of grooming Laurent has become the 10th generation of Favre’s to heed the watch-making call. Although centuries of knowledge flow through his veins, Laurent wisely chose to spend the first years of his career learning the industry, working as the Head of Communication and later on as the Head of Product Development for a well-known Swiss brand.
Once he felt he had learnt all that he needed to, he was ready to step out and design his first piece under the A. Favre & fils’ name.
The result?
The Phoenix 10.1. A gorgeous timepiece that showcases Favre’s remarkable abilities both as a watch-maker and a product designer.
The Phoenix 10.1
Quite obviously the first thing you notice when you look at the Phoenix is that one quarter of the dial is dedicated to the date display. Called the Quantième à Grand Affichage Rotatif, this big date display is an original and patented development designed in-house by Favre. The purpose of this unique system is to optimize the number of components, therefore increasing reliability, by reducing the number of moving parts to the minimum: in this case, just two.
Not only is it supremely easy to read, it is also completely unlike anything you will find on another timepiece, ensuring that your watch stands out from the crowd for all the right reasons.
However, whilst the large date display may be the most obvious example of what makes this piece special, it is by no means the only one. To illustrate, the seemingly simplistic 41mm case is actually quite a complex assembly designed based on the principles of the Golden Ratio (φ) and the Golden Number (7) from the Pythagorean School. Unfortunately it is too difficult to explain these concepts in detail, however, the brand’s website contains an excellent series of diagrams which will walk you through the process.
Housed within the 18k white gold or Palladium 150 case and visible through the sapphire case back is a superb, manual-wind in-house calibre DB 1334/1 HENRY (a tribute to Henry A. Favre, 8th generation of the Favre watchmakers) beating at 28,000 variations per hour. A combination of modern technology and centuries of watch-making history, the exceptionally well-made movement is treated to a number of traditional finishing techniques including; chamfering, drawing, circular graining, sinks entirely done by hand, and a “Rayons de la Gloire” (Rays of Glory) machine finish on the bridges.
Parallel twin barrels with direct depth offer up to 84 hours of power reserve when fully wound, with a power reserve indicator visible through the sapphire case-back.
The Final Word
Although the Phoenix 10.1 is an exceptional timepiece, what truly makes it attractive is its relative anonymity. So far the piece has received limited coverage in watch media, although everything that has been written is, not surprisingly, very positive. As such, this represents a unique opportunity for you to acquire a piece that will not only be the envy of your peers but also truly showcase your credentials as a fine timepiece connoisseur.
Be warned though, it won’t take long before this piece becomes a big hit.
To find out more visit the brand’s official website at: www.afavrefils.com
Who Wants To Look Amazing? Introducing The Benzinger Boutique Collection
A while ago we introduced you to the truly exceptional, one-of-a-kind Minute Repeater 2 timepiece from master craftsmen Grieb & Benzinger Platinum. Now, it gives us great pleasure to announce the all new Benzinger Boutique Collection, a unique combination of pure beauty and intricate craftsmanship designed to completely enthrall the wearer.
Think we’re exaggerating? Read on and decide for yourself.
The Benzinger Boutique Collection
Offered in white gold, pink gold and steel on request these stunning new timepieces are mostly based on manually wound movements from Unitas and showcase the extraordinary talents of Jochen Benzinger and Georg Bartkowiak. Characterized by hand-skeletonized movements, genuine hand-guilloché dials and technical modifications such as the striking position of the hour and minute displays above the dial, the Boutique Collection represents a superb combination of traditional craftsmanship and modern design.
We’ve picked out some of our favorites which we think you’re going to love too. First up is the aptly named and extremely desirable ‘Beauty and the Beast’ Collection:
The White Dragon (Beauty):
White mother-of-pearl dial, hand-created and applied dragon, white leather strap, diamond bezel, 18K White gold case, 42 mm, movement set with pavé diamonds, €32.500,00.
The Black Dragon (Beast):
Black sterling silver dial, hand-created and applied dragon, black hand-sewn alligator leather strap, 18K White gold case, 42 mm, oignon-style crown, hand-skeletonized, hand-engraved and hand-guilloché movement with flame-blued screws; black and gold finish, €20,500.
However, if you are a true connoisseur of skeletonized dials than you cannot go past the phenomenal Fancy Blossom collection. Presented in three different variations (Cherry Blossom, Coffee Blossom and Ice Blossom) these are no longer timepieces, they are superb works of art!
The Coffee Blossom
Movement completely skeletonized, engraved and engine-turned by hand, 18K White gold case with leather strap, 42 mm, diamond bezel, €25.500,00
The Final Word
It seems like more and more we are seeing a return to the traditional values of exceptional craftmanship, quality and individuality in the watch industry as high-end consumers continue to raise their expectations and demand highly-customized, unique pieces.
Whilst the new Boutique collection is designed to be more accessible (relatively speaking) than the Grieb & Benzinger Platinum series, you can be almost guaranteed you will not see a similar piece on anyone’s else wrist given the highly limited production numbers (approximately 100 pieces a year maximum). Beautifully executed, every piece in the collection demonstrates the standard of quality and attention to detail that Benzinger are renowned for.
Plus gentleman if you treat yourself to a Black Dragon and your lovely partner to a White Dragon everybody wins. Same goes for you too ladies!
If you would like to know more get on to the official Benzinger Boutique website: www.benzinger-boutique.com
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Latest Comments
- Nick Orloff: Beautiful piece, regrettably a little (?) out of my price range. I’d love to...
- Olivier Muller: Thanks, BMW
Stay tuned ! - Jack: Looks like a really nice watch for the price!