Category: Interviews

Interview With Guy Lucas de Peslouan – The Master Behind The Lens

| October 13, 2010 | 1 Reply

Guy Lucas de Peslouan

Guy Lucas de Peslouan. Although you may not immediately recognize the name, this extremely talented individual is single-handedly responsible for so many of the photos of some of the world’s most desired timepieces, including offerings from brands such as Richard Mille, Thomas Prescher, Audemars Piguet and Van Cleef & Arpels that you would almost certainly already be familiar with his work, even if you didn’t know it. Not only an internationally praised photographer, he has also co-authored 6 major books on the most prestigious brands of the watchmaking industry, illustrating again and again that he is one of the most talented photographers in his field in Europe.

It was truly a pleasure therefore, when we were granted the opportunity to meet and have a drink with him in a cosy lobby in Paris, a few meters down from the Place Vendôme. This was our chance, we hoped, to learn more about this rather remarkable individual.

And we were not disappointed.

At the beginning of this year Guy successfully published his second book on Richard Mille, and so this seemed a good a place as any to start exploring his exceptional career.

“Richard wanted something unconventional, with very little text, and mainly focused on the technique and architecture of his watches. As soon as he saw the first shots, he gave me free reign to work.”

Richard Mille
Richard Mille Pignons © Guy Lucas de Peslouan

TWL : Surely it must have been near impossible to capture accurately the detail of the incredibly tiny parts that operate within these Racing Machines ?

GL : Indeed, some parts are immeasurably small ! That’s the very specificity of my job in horology, especially compared with jewelery where creations are, for most part, at the scale of the centimeter. The other challenge  lies with the materials themselves and the angles. Gold, titanium, platinum, etc., react in different ways to the light. Some parts of the watches have curves that, combined with these materials, are a real challenge to shoot. I remember in particular a piece from Laurent Ferrier whose horns gave me a great deal of difficulty !

TWL : How do you capture these stunning images?

GL : A Nikon D3X. I’ve always been a Nikon man. It’s a 24.5 million pixels camera, that I bundle with a macro 105 mm lens with a constant opening at 2.8. Before that, I used to work with a D2X, but it was only capable of 12 million pixels. Today I have two times that, files are bigger and clients can easily plan other uses than pure commercial shots, for instance, including advertising and everything in large format.

Honestly, Canon  had on display a 21 million pixel camera two years before Nikon, but not all the cameras are compatible with all lenses. With a Nikon, I can chose any lens I want and bundle it with any camera, even from the 50′s !

Richard Mille
The complex beauty of Richard Mille © Guy Lucas de Peslouan

TWL : Technology these days has made it far easier for more and more people to retouch and alter photos. Do you think that, someday, the photo itself will simply become a starting point, easily modifiable by anyone with Photoshop ?

GL : This is the age old question! These days, indeed, we have to admit that young Artistic Directors think right from the beginning in terms of Photoshop. They have less and less appreciation for photographic culture, and, actually, I  think we won’t ever get back to the earlier days. Nevertheless, what makes the difference in an accomplished artwork of photography is the way you envision the picture right from the beginning as it should be in the end, and not as you could possibly transform it with the use of software.

Moreover, I’m in favor of allowing pictures to have some flaws, as this gives life to them, and in my opinion makes them more authentic. Like the traditional watchmakers I work with, I am a craftsman of photography.

Lastly, no matter how much artificial work is done, there are still some things that 3D simply can’t recreate.

Thomas Prescher Triple Axis Tourbillon
A close-up of Thomas Prescher’s mind-blowing triple-axis tourbillon © Guy Lucas de Peslouan

TWL : When did you switch to a digital camera?

GL : Precisely when I started in horology. Some parts are so small that I needed a high level of zoom, which was impossible with silver photography as, if I zoomed in beyond a certain point picture would become too grainy. With the digital technology, I can zoom without any limit.

TWL : No regrets with silver ?

GL : They are different universes, with different uses. Digital can’t deal with too much contrast in a picture, that’s why it’s highly recommended for horology. On the contrary, jewelery pieces display multiples reflections due to the presence of precious stones, that’s why I prefer silver photography for them. In fact, some clients, such as Cartier, expressly ask me to work with silver, this is not a coincidence.

Boucheron Montre Snake
Dazzling – Boucheron’s Montre Snake © Guy Lucas de Peslouan

TWL : To what degree do you retouch your own pictures ?

GL : I’m not a specialist in computer graphics. I will do most of the corrections and editions by myself, but when it becomes too complicated, I will call in a professional to help me. I’m still using the CS3, and, like many, I only use 25% of its capacities !

TWL : Who would you like to work with next ?

GL : Lange & Söhne, for the timeless elegance of their pieces. Amongst major brands, Jaeger-LeCoultre. And amongst the independent watchmakers, Roger Smith.

DeBethune
Capturing the simplistic sophistication of De Bethune © Guy Lucas de Peslouan

TWL : You’re a critical link in the chain of horological communication. How do you think this area should continue to evolve?

GL : There is a fundamental shift to the watchmakers themselves that needs to take place, their job, the very core of their creations. We can’t be satisfied with just product-based communication any more, it has to be linked with their creators. Each brand has its own personality, most of the time inspired by its respective creator. Mille has very technical, masculine brand positioning, De Béthune is imbued with style and sensuality, and so on. I like to switch from one universe to another, but it’s critical that it’s personified.

Some brands have already taken the first steps, like Vacheron Constantin who focused specifically on the jobs of lacquering, or Van Cleef & Arpels that did an important work on “dressing” its watches with jewellery parts.

Big brands are locked into their own image and territory of communication, which is like and uncrossable boundary to them for fear that their clients won’t be able to associate with the brand any more. The problem is that clients get change, and so too must the brand.

Independent watchmakers have this freedom of communication, and they have to take it. If they want to be there in the next couple of years, it’s now or never.

A special thanks to Guy Lucas for speaking with us – please be sure to visit his official website at www.artsight.fr

Guy Lucas de Peslouan, le sculpteur de lumières

| October 13, 2010 | 1 Reply

Guy Lucas de Peslouan

Il est l’auteur de tant de clichés chez Richard Mille, Thomas Prescher, Audemars Piguet ou encore Van Cleef & Arpels, que vous avez nécessairement déjà vu son travail. Auteur de 6 ouvrages de références sur les plus prestigieuses marques de l’industrie horlogère, Guy Lucas de Peslouan a réussi à s’imposer en Suisse comme l’un des incontournables photographes de place horlogère.

Nous avons eu le plaisir de partager un verre avec lui à quelques mètres de la place Vendôme pour faire plus ample connaissance.

Guy a publié en début d’année son second ouvrage sur Richard Mille. Il commence par nous en donner les grandes lignes.

“Richard voulait un ouvrage hors norme, avec peu de texte, et centré principalement sur la technique et l’architecture de ses montres. Après lui avoir montré les premières épreuves, il m’a donné carte blanche.”

Richard Mille
Richard Mille Pignons © Guy Lucas de Peslouan

TWL : N’a-t-il pas été trop difficile de capturer l’image des si petites pièces de ces Racing Machines ?

GL : Si, certaines pièces sont vraiment d’une infinie petitesse ! C’est ce qui fait la spécificité de mon métier dans l’horlogerie, notamment par comparaison à la joaillerie où les créations sont au minimum à l’échelle du centimètre. L’autre défi, ce sont les matériaux et les courbes. L’or, le titane, le platine, etc., réagissent différemment à la lumière. Certaines parties des montres offrent parfois des angles qui, associés à ces matériaux, sont un vrai challenge à photographier. Je me souviens notamment des cornes d’une Laurent Ferrier qui m’avait singulièrement donné du fil à retordre !

TWL : Avec quels moyens capturez-vous ces images ?

GL : Un Nikon D3X. J’ai toujours été Nikon. C’est un 24,5 millions de pixels, que je couple à 105 mm macro, en ouverture constante à 2,8. Avant, je travaillais avec un D2X, mais qui n’offrait que 12 millions de pixels. Aujourd’hui j’ai plus du double, les fichiers sont plus lourds, et les clients peuvent donc se permettre d’autres usages que l’illustration pure de livres ou supports commerciaux, notamment la publicité et tout ce qui est grand format.

Très honnêtement, Canon proposait un 21 millions de pixels plus de 2 ans avant Nikon, mais les boitiers ne sont pas tous compatibles avec les objectifs. Chez Nikon, je peux choisir n’importe objectif sur n’importe quel boîtier, même des années 50 !

Richard Mille
The complex beauty of Richard Mille © Guy Lucas de Peslouan

TWL : Le traitement numérique des images se démocratise de plus en plus. N’avez-vous pas peur que bientôt la photo ne soit qu’un simple point de départ, modifiable à volonté par Photoshop ?

GL : Eternelle question ! A présent, il faut effectivement reconnaître que les jeunes Directeurs Artistiques raisonnent dès le départ en Photoshop. Ils ont de moins en moins de culture photographique, et a priori, on ne reviendra pas en arrière. Mais ce qui fait la différence dans une prise de vue réussie, c’est de penser et de concevoir la photo telle qu’elle devrait être au final, pas telle que l’on pourra la retoucher avec un logiciel.

D’autre part, je suis partisan de laisser certaines imperfections qui donnent vie à la photo. Je fais, à l’image des maîtres horlogers, un travail d’artisan.

Enfin, et même si d’énormes progrès ont été réalisés, il y a encore un certain nombre de choses que la 3D n’arrive pas à reproduire.

Thomas Prescher Triple Axis Tourbillon
A close-up of Thomas Prescher’s mind-blowing triple-axis tourbillon © Guy Lucas de Peslouan

TWL : Quand êtes-vous passé au numérique ?

GL : Précisément quand je suis passé à la photo horlogère. Certaines pièces sont si petites qu’elles exigent un niveau de zoom qui, en argentique, finissait par laisser entrevoir le grain de la photo. En numérique, je peux zoomer sans limite.

TWL : Aucun regret par rapport à l’argentique ?

GL : Ce sont deux univers différents, pour des usages différents. Le numérique ne supporte pas les contrastes trop excessifs, c’est pourquoi il est tout à fait recommandé pour l’horlogerie. A l’inverse, pour les pièces de joaillerie offrant de multiples reflets assez intenses propres aux pierres précieuses, je préfère l’argentique. D’ailleurs, certains clients, comme Cartier, me demandent expressément de travailler en argentique, ce n’est pas par hasard.

Boucheron Montre Snake
Dazzling – Boucheron’s Montre Snake © Guy Lucas de Peslouan

TWL : Jusqu’à quel point retravaillez-vous vous-même vos photos ?

GL : Je ne suis pas infographiste. Je fais la plupart des retouches et montages moi-même, mais lorsque cela devient trop complexe, je fais appel à l’un d’eux. Je suis toujours à la CS3, et, comme tout le monde, je n’utilise que 25% de ses possibilités !

TWL : Avec qui aimeriez-vous travailler ?

GL : Lange & Söhne, pour l’élégance intemporelle de leurs modèles. Dans les grandes marques, Jaeger-LeCoultre. Et dans les indépendants, Roger Smith.

DeBethune
Capturing the simplistic sophistication of De Bethune © Guy Lucas de Peslouan

TWL : Vous êtes l’un des maillons essentiels de la communication horlogère. Comment celle-ci devrait-elle évoluer, selon vous ?

GL : Il y a un travail fondamental à faire sur les horlogers eux-mêmes, leur métier, l’essence de leur création. On ne peut plus se satisfaire d’une pure communication produits, il faut qu’elle soit associée à leur créateur. Chaque marque à sa propre personnalité, le plus souvent insufflée par son créateur. Mille a un univers très technique, très masculin, De Béthune est très empreint de finesse et de sensualité, etc. J’aime passer d’un univers à l’autre et il est essentiel qu’il soit personnifié.

Certaines marques ont déjà franchi un cap, comme Vacheron Constantin qui s’est concentré sur les métiers des laques, ou Van Cleef & Arpels qui a fait un important travail sur l’habillage.

Les grandes marques sont le plus souvent enfermées dans leur propre image de marque, qu’elles ne veulent pas transgresser, par peur que leurs clients ne s’y reconnaissent plus. Le problème, c’est que les clients vieillissent, et la marque aussi.

Les horlogers indépendants, eux, ont la liberté de communiquer, il faut qu’ils la saisissent. C’est maintenant qu’il faut communiquer si l’on veut durer.

Guy Lucas de Peslouan – www.artsight.fr

A Special Interview With Meehna Goldsmith – The Luxury Timepiece Expert

| September 27, 2010 | 3 Replies

Meehna Goldsmith

Many of you that are regular readers of The Watch Lounge, and indeed any number of other well known publications, will no doubt already be familiar with the name Meehna Goldsmith. Not only are we fortunate enough to have her contribute to this on-line magazine, she also writes for a number of other exceptional outlets, such as the Financial Times and HH, the official magazine of the Fondation de la Haute Horologerie. Some of you may even have taken advantage of her exclusive services as highly respected timepiece consultant and stylist.

Meehna is held in the highest esteem by major players in the industry, not only for her in-depth knowledge and extensive experience, but also for her professional and positive attitude. And so it is with great pleasure that we take this opportunity to provide you with an exclusive insight into the life of this most charming and accomplished woman.

We hope you enjoy!

TWL: How did you get your first start in the watch industry?

MG: I trace my journey in the watch industry to a bit over five years ago. I started out as an enthusiast really. I wanted to buy myself a serious watch so I began hanging out on the forums to educate myself. After some time passed, a person asked a question I thought I could help answer. After posting my response, a note arrived in my personal email box from a very well respected watchmaker who has been in the business over 30 years. He said my writing was so articulate, educational and entertaining and that most watch writing tended to be rather dull. Had I ever considered writing about watches professionally?

Well, I was pretty flattered and decided to give it a try, not really thinking it would become my fulltime profession. My first published article was on Ulysse Nardin’s the Freak, which is an extremely technical watch. I still can’t believe I took this on as my first attempt! If I had actually thought to myself, I’m going to gain credibility writing about watches, I would have been too intimidated to move forward. Needless to say, this one electronic missive changed my life.

Ulysse Nardin Freak
Ulysse Nardin’s “The Freak”; a complex masterpiece.

TWL: What drives your passionate interest in luxury watches?

MG: I’ve been fascinated by watches since I was a young girl. I still find myself inexplicably drawn to them and I can’t quite put my finger on why. Those little mechanisms are so enchanting and technically mesmerizing, particularly when you get into the more complex constructions. And that’s just the movements. When well done, the dials are miniature portraits of time. More than just being a beautiful piece of kinetic sculpture, I also love the symbolic significance held in a watch. It goes beyond a numeric tracking. Within those ticking hours, minutes and seconds are held the stories of our lives.

As for focusing on luxury watches, well, I’ve always been attracted to quality. My parents used to complain, “Meehna always wants the best of everything.” I prefer one great and meaningful piece to a few mediocre ones across the board. I want to really love, appreciate and cherish something and I’m willing to wait to get what I want. There’s just a different quality and aura when you’re dealing with luxury watches. You can see and feel it in the design, construction, movement finishing, and choice of materials. What differentiates a luxury watch is longevity; it’s made with thought, care and to last. Somebody loved it before I did. That feeling needs to be there. Most important, I think that the right luxury watch imbues you with power. It’s subtle but it’s there.

TWL: Not only are you a well-respected professional watch journalist and speaker, but you’re also a luxury timepiece consultant and stylist. How did this all come about and how do you find time to fit it all in?

MG: The idea to work as watch matchmaker, which is what I realized I’m doing, came about gradually. People began asking me for my advice on which watches to wear or purchase. I thought there are consultants for wine, for art and for clothes, why not for watches? Particularly in the styling arena, watches are pushed into the same category as fashion. Watches are a different discipline altogether. It really makes me flinch when I see an actor in a film, or a model in a magazine dressed to great effect—and then they are wearing the wrong watch! You’ve got this whole scenario carefully thought out in terms of projecting an environment, image, style, personality and mood and then there’s a watch that absolutely doesn’t go with the look and feel of the whole. It’s like a fly crash-landing in my soup. It ruins the whole meal for me.

And to your questions, how do I manage such a hectic schedule? You know the old saying, If you want something done, give it to a busy person. I subscribe to that notion. The busier I am, the more productive I get!

Meehna Goldsmith
Meehna with Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of Hublot.

TWL: Can you talk us through the role you play as a luxury timepiece consultant and stylist?

MG: Working as a consultant and stylist is really matchmaking a person to the proper watch. I want to get to know whom I’m working with. What is their style? Are they somebody who likes a trendy fashionable look that announces, “I am here” with flash and dash or do they like something more low key and under the radar, a piece that the cognoscenti will nod their heads and know what it is. What type of music do you listen to, what are your hobbies, habits, what environment do you work in, do you like reading twisty mysteries or the latest serious biography of a historical figure, even perhaps if you’re a dog or a cat person. All these things let me know about a person.

Another crucial factor is, what does the person want the watch for? Is it an everyday piece or one for more formal occasions? Watches have a personality and certainly putting one on one person’s wrist will have a different effect than when it’s on another. The two combine to make your own unique statement. Moreover, the relationship between a person and his or her watch is very personal. You wear the watch next to your body on your wrist, which is an erogenous zone. You want to make the right decision.

TWL: Who are your clients? Are they experienced collectors with specific ideas of what they want, novices requiring some guidance, or a mix of both?

MG: I get a mix of both. I enjoy working with experienced collectors because it’s an active conversation and I love the exchange of ideas. They usually know what they want and really just want to talk through what they’re thinking about buying and confirm it’s the right choice for them. For me, it’s really fun to work with someone who has style, expertise and sophistication in other areas but doesn’t have a lot of knowledge or awareness about timepieces outside of the big brands that spend a fortune on advertising. That’s not to say there aren’t some solid timepieces from those brands. However, I enjoy opening people’s eyes to other possibilities, providing them the opportunity to be unique with their choice rather than just follow the pack.

TWL: What factors do you take in consideration when advising a client on the purchase of a new timepiece?

MG: I take into consideration a lot of factors, including a client’s style, personality and the statement he or she wants to make. Also, it’s important to know what environment my client wants to wear the watch in. You don’t wear a sport watch to the opera or take a perpetual calendar to the beach. I like to set up realistic expectations, just like in any relationship. Of course, I also advise on what I feel are best choices within a price range. Very few of us have unlimited budgets, myself included, sadly!

Meehna Goldsmith
Meehna with Jerome Pineau, Community Manager for Marvin Watches.

TWL: How do they find you? Is it mostly word of mouth recommendations or do you actively advertise your services?

MG: Mostly people have come to me through word of mouth or have found me on the internet through my writing or when there is something written about me. I haven’t yet done any formal advertising of my services.

TWL: What has been the most memorable client purchase you have been involved in and why?

MG: My most memorable client purchase came completely randomly. A doctor from Minnesota contacted me recently. He had read my work and found me on the internet, where he started following my blog. He liked what I had to say and my perspective on watches, so he thought it would be a fun experience to have me help him choose another watch to add to his collection. He really took to the watch matchmaker concept. He thought it was original and special and he liked the high level of personalized service. We did the whole process via phone and email. What made this client so special is that he trusted me without having met me. My knowledge, reputation and writing stood on their own merit. I’m a sentimental person and that meant a lot to me. Plus, this guy is really a super person. I feel like I made a new friend.

TWL: Who, in your opinion, are the top three up-and-coming brands or watch-makers to watch (no pun intended) and why?

MG: This is a tough one, Tom. The luxury watch market offers a lot of choice and yet it’s a tight field with lots of brands vying for attention. What I look for in a brand is something they do better or different to make them stand out in a positive way, whether it’s design, philosophy, or an interesting approach or mechanism. I also love a great story behind a watchmaker or brand. With that said, I’ll take a stab at it.

It might surprise you to hear me say Cartier. Although a historic name and a producer of watches and iconic designs for over a century, up until the last few years, Cartier was not a movement maker. In terms of combining both design and interesting mechanisms and materials (at their own manufacture), they are an up-and-comer in my book. Under the leadership of Carole Forestier-Kasapi, Cartier has released exciting technical implementations while staying true to their beautiful and characteristic aesthetic.

I think Hublot is going to be another one to watch. With the new manufacture and the talent acquired from BNB, not to mention the forward-thinking Jean-Claude Biver at the helm, Hublot is poised to show us some interesting things. Plus, I think they’ve done some wonderful women’s watches, combining technical aspects with pieces that are colorful and pretty as statement accessories. I’m a big proponent of women and haute horlogerie and like to open up women to the beauty of mechanical movements.

And, my next choice is an independent: Roger Smith. He creates a true handmade watch, piece by piece in his workshop on the Isle of Man. He comes from the pocket watch tradition so you can appreciate the 3-D architecture of his work without a loupe. Many of the greatest horologic achievements came from Englishmen and these men inspire Roger. His goal is to revive the English watchmaking tradition. Let me tell you I’m revived by his watches. I can only hope to own one some day. They don’t come cheap!

Meehna Goldsmith
Meehna with independent watch-maker extraordinaire Roger Smith.

Before I bring this question to a close, I must mention the clockmaker David Walter. He’s a watchmaker too, so I think it still counts. David does the most magnificent clocks and he makes all his own parts, even cuts and grinds his own sapphire in his workshop. He creates truly amazing technological mechanisms that update a clock to a must-have modern piece, in my opinion. I certainly covet owning one of them.

TWL: What advice do you have for would-be collectors who are looking to purchase their first serious piece?

MG: Buy the watch magazines, spend time on the forums and blogs and learn. Find out what your taste is and trust it from an aesthetic perspective. Don’t let other people convince you what is the hottest or coolest thing. Only you know what will suit you best. There’s always going to be someone who doesn’t like your choice. There are always naysayers, just like with a piece of clothing art or even a mate. You’ll know when you’ve found your proper match. Trust yourself. I’d also emphasize waiting until you can afford that quality piece that makes you excited. Don’t just buy something mediocre because you’re impatient or think this watch will be alright for now. That doesn’t mean you need to spend tens of thousands of dollars either—though it’s nice to have that budget because it gets really interesting and exciting at this level. You can get some really good stuff to start a collection at around 4-5K plus or minus.

TWL: Finally, a favorite question of ours, what watch is on your wrist right now and why?

MG: I’m wearing a Parmigiani Kalpa Grande Limited Edition Quality Fleurier. I’m a fan of the Parmigiani brand. I think they do top quality finishing, are very exclusive and a bit under the radar, which appeals to me. In my opinion, this watch is very sleek and classic. It has design elements based upon Fibonacci’s Golden Ratio too, which I find interesting, a bit intellectual and romantic at the same time. Plus, I like the technical aspects of it having to pass the Quality Fleurier test to get the seal. It’s harder to pass than the test for the Geneva Seal.

For all the latest information from Meehna and to request her superb services as a luxury timepiece consultant please visit her comprehensive and regularly updated website: www.meehnagoldsmith.com

Interview With Ludovic Ballouard: Creator Of The Upside Down Watch

| June 11, 2010 | 1 Reply

Ludovic Ballouard

Puzzling. Ludovic Ballouard is a puzzling man. Everything that this young and brilliant watchmaker does systematically goes against conventional wisdom. While most talented entrepreneurs dream about the development and expansion of their business, he just wants to work alone and not create more than 100 pieces per year. When they buy a new Porsche, he prefers… model aircraft. When others organize prestigious exhibitions to show-case their creations, Ludovic takes his clients out…for a beer at the local bar in his village.

And despite the allure of state-of-the-art Ateliers and luxury houses, Ludovic maintains that he wouldn’t leave his village and his dozen or so dogs and cats for anything.

Welcoming, authentic and modest, Ludovic’s unassuming attitude belies the exceptional career he has carved out in the luxury watch industry, masking the truly outstanding wealth of knowledge and expertise he possesses.

As a former employee of Franck Muller and then F.P. Journe, he admits, albeit with a hint of embarrassment, that he has almost “done it all”. Realizing the depth and breadth of his exceptional talent, clients of these two prestigious companies urged him to develop his own range of pieces.

And so, in 2009, Ludovic launched his business. His first idea took just 15 minutes to crystallize. He took a few more to scribble it down on a post-it note and so the soon-to-be legendary Upside Down watch was born.

Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down watch
©Wai Shan Lam

We recently had the great pleasure to spend a few moments speaking with Ludovic, an experience that stays with you long after you have left this charming, thoughtful man.

Even still, charismatic as he is, conducting a traditional style interview with him is quite a challenge. A business plan? He never gave it a second thought. Future projects planned? Sure, about thirty. Examples of specific sources of inspiration? Not really; it can be a tree, a road, or a dream had in the night.

Still, at least we can tell you what motivates Ludovic Ballouard. Passion and instinct. Nothing more, and nothing less.

So, let us meet with an ordinary man who makes extraordinary things.

TWL: Hello Ludovic. So, how was the experience of your very first creation, the Upside-Down?

LB: Very good, thanks! I am very happy to say that in the last few weeks, all 12 units have been delivered. Each of them is unique, as every model from 1 to 12 is identified with its figure in red directly on the dial of the watch.

TWL: How was the watch received by the very first, specially selected, 12 new owners?

It was a very warm welcome. And even an anticipated welcome you might say, as the Number 1 was acquired even before his owner saw any plans or sketches!

Now they have all been delivered to the right hands. This is very important to me. My watches are the extension of my own personality, and so my clients want to know who is really behind the brand Ludovic Ballouard. It’s important to them, and it’s important to me.

Ludovic Ballouard
©Ian Skellern

TWL: Why did not you create a brand? Today, Ludovic Ballouard is simultaneously a man, a brand, and a product. It must be hard to manage…

LB: For the same reasons as before. For me, there always has to be a link between the watchmaker and his creation. A brand created from scratch has something very impersonal that does not reflect me as a person. Today, my business associate and I know personally each of the 12 owners. It’s like a club, there is a connection that unite us.

TWL: Talking about this, what’s the typical profile of a Ludovic Ballouard watch owner?

LB: It’s hard to define a unique profile. The amateur of something very unique indeed. Someone looking for authenticity, also, as well as a watch proposed at its real value.

TWL: What do you mean?

LB: I create high end watches, yes, but I don’t add a zero to their price to have them figure artificially on the list of super exclusive brands. I don’t understand these brands that create watches with a steel bezel and a movement produced in the millions and then they sell them for over 100.000 CHF. It’s stupefying, it exasperates me.

TWL: Is the same then for high mass events such as BaselWorld?

LB: Not quite but let’s just say simply that I’m not interested in them. Moreover, I’m always afraid to see other watchmaker’s creations, I’m afraid it has an unconscious influence on me! Other people’s ideas might slow down my creativity.

Sometimes I participate in professional trade shows, but I only work with independent artisans, who are all friends of mine, and it works perfectly like this. As for the opportunity to meet new clients? Well, let’s just say it’s not a great necessity for me at the moment! As I had the privilege to work on the Grande Sonnerie for FP Journe, I acquired a kind of a legitimacy in the industry as well as somewhat of a profile that gave me access to contacts and orders from Paris, London, Sydney or Singapore.

TWL: Consequently, you can remain independent?

LB: Yes, and it’s essential for me. I like total independence, I don’t owe anything to anyone, and I’m financially self-sufficient.

Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down Watch
©Wai Shan Lam

TWL: What are your projects for the future?

LB: My plans are to deliver one new model every two years. Thus, in 2012, the Upside-Down will be joined by a new watch, for which I already have about thirty ideas! I have to refine the project, but so it is going well. In principle, I’ll stay quite close to the Upside-Down, but key evolutions are not defined yet. Each new model will have a pre-production of 12 units, which will be first and foremost proposed to the 12 owners of the Upside-Down.

To introduce this model to them, I’d like to organize a weekend get-together somewhere in the world, although I don’t know where yet at this stage. I don’t like traveling though, so I’ll have to make a great effort as I don’t feel comfortable with long distances!

TWL: What can we expect from this new model?

LB: I don’t know yet, but, however, nothing to do with a tourbillon or a chronograph!

TWL: Why?

LB: I don’t know, I’m just not interested in them, it’s not in the spirit of my creations. It doesn’t match with the way I see things. To be honest though, I don’t have any creative plans or even a business plan, I work purely on instinct…

Interview With Christophe Claret – One Man, One Vision (Part. 1)

| June 1, 2010 | 2 Replies

Christophe Claret

Unless you are an astute observer of the luxury watch industry it is very likely that you have never even heard the name Christophe Claret, or at the very least don’t fully appreciate its significance. You are, of course, not to blame for this as many of his customers in the past have chosen to downplay his involvement in the development of their projects (although it is generally common knowledge in the industry.) You see Claret, along with his state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities, has been behind some of the most mind-blowing, exceptionally complicated watches ever made.

Don’t believe us?

Well, there was the groundbreaking Chapter One for Maîtres du Temps, the Opus 4 and Tourbillon Glissiere for Harry Winston and let’s not forget that his company has produced every single eye-popping piece for the Jean Dunand collection so far. Keep in mind though that these are just a few recent examples of the high-end brands that actually acknowledge the integral role he has played in the creation and realization of their timepieces.

There are many more, including larger mainstream brands, who also seek out his expertise with high end complications although they’ll never say it publicly.

Last year Christophe Claret SA celebrated 20 years of existence and took the first real steps towards creating their own identity in the market with the release of the highly anticipated Dual Tow. Last week Mr. Claret took some time to sit down with us and reflect on how far his business has come, how they’ve weathered the financial storm and what the future may hold for this extraordinary company.

TWL: A belated Happy Birthday, Mr. Claret!

CC: Thanks! We reached 20 years last year, and to celebrate we created the Dual Tow. However, we did not achieve this in a single day. After the first decade, when we were still relatively small, we spent 5 years from 2000 to 2005 building the brand, and saving money so that we could have financial reserves at our disposal. Following this we invested a further 5 years in development and expansion, focusing especially on our production tools.

We were just 35 staff back in 2005. Now we are 105!

Jean Dunand Shabaka
The sublime Jean Dunand Shabaka, made a reality by Christophe Claret © Christope Claret SA

TWL: Wow, your company is growing very fast! Some observers say that universities can deliver around 50 very high level watchmakers per year, while in reality the industry requires around 10 times more. How do you face this challenge?

CC: We have built relationships with many universities around the world and are very active in this area. We send our own experts around the world to find the best students and hire them as trainees. And sometimes they come back with one or two as employees!

TWL: Remaining independent is key to you, isn’t it ?

CC: Yes. We produce 80% of the final product in house.  I’m the only shareholder of Christophe Claret SA. I don’t rely on any bank, and don’t contribute any additional funds. I run the company purely on the cash flows it generates. I am using the company’s cash reserves to ride out the uncertainty of the crisis.

TWL: Which represents…?

CC: Approximately another 2 years of funding requirements. But I do hope that the crisis won’t last until then!

TWL: Do you think it will, though?

CC: I’ve learnt a lot from the past 1998 crisis. For now, I think things will improve within two years. By 2015, we should see a return to strong market of 2006-2007.

TWL: So, how does the company look today?

CC: We have 18 customers for which we produce movements all year long. We lost a very limited number of them during the crisis, but I’m quite confident that new ones will arrive pretty soon.

For our clients, we work simultaneously on 40 different movements. At the same time, we create 5 new movements per year. Our maximum was recently reached when we created, in one single year, 8 new movements! Currently we produce around 400 units per year, for a revenue of 20 million CHF in 2009.

TWL: How many new movements have you produced so far?

CC: Around 64 since inception.

Christophe Claret
Highly complicated movements are manufactured and put together by the best watch-makers in the industry. © Christope Claret SA

TWL: What process is required for these movements to go from concept to reality?

CC: We have a strong Design / R&D department, of around 10 people (the industry average is around 3! – Ed.).As I am first a watchmaker, and then a manager, I am actively involved in the entire creative process.

Up until 2009, we only produced movements to order, based on the specific requests of our clients. Since this year, we have started creating our own movements, which our clients then discover once they are finalized. Now we have currently 5 movements under creation. 2 to 3 will be presented to our clients, the remaining will be for our own production.

TWL: This could be a bit risky! Are you sure your clients will buy these new movements without having seen their plans before?

CC: No I’m not. But I have more than 20 years experience in this field working simultaneously with the clients of Christophe Claret; consequently, I feel I have quite a good overview of the market trends…!

TWL: Talking about market overview, what are your thoughts on this crisis, is it really over?

CC: We’re not through yet, but we’re heading in the right direction. To get through it, some companies bet on their iconic models. Some reduced their production. For my company, I put the emphasis on our manufacturing equipment. This will be key to our success when the crisis is truly behind us. Certainly though some suppliers of movements will fail under bankruptcy proceedings and there will certainly be (and already have been) market adjustments to reflect these difficult times.

In the end though, when demand rises again, there will be a strong need for companies that are able to react very quickly and produce movements in a very short timeframe. Companies such as Claret, that already have all the required equipment in house and ready. In addition, having our own in-house equipment allows us to remain completely independent.

TWL: Do you think the rise of Asia will impact the traditional economic model?

CC: Asia has two different faces for us. First, as a client; Chinese millionaires continue to grow more numerous year after year, that’s a fact – even if the Chinese market is quite hard to enter for a small company like us.

Second; as competitors. Yes, China presented its very first tourbillon recently but, you know, I’m not too worried about it. The tourbillon is currently their most prestigious complication. At Christophe Claret, it’s the basis of all our models….

On top of that, we must not forget that once the US emerges from the crisis, they will be back with their strong appetite for high end luxury goods, fulfilling the potential we all know exists there. And both Christophe Claret SA and the Dual Tow are already there in the market ready for this and we have invested heavily in our equipment to meet this demand.

Christophe Claret
The company has invested heavily in developing state of the art equipment. © Christope Claret SA

TWL: You seem to be very involved with the production equipment?

CC: Definitely. It is the key to the success of our business. We spent months in the R&D of our own industrial machines, for instance developing the technology to laser cut gold, titanium, etc. It’s a co-development in partnership with companies like BC Technologies or Biwi.

TWL: Are these machines then patented by Christophe Claret?

CC: No, or only in the case of key innovations specifically developed for our own needs. But it’s not in the interest of industry to patent innovation.

TWL: But doesn’t allowing your competitors to buy the machines you’ve spent months developing give them the opportunity to achieve the same level of execution as you?

CC: You know, when competitors buy these machines, it’s good for the company that builds them, and consequently it’s good for the whole market. That’s our philosophy.

Moreover, you know, when they buy the machines we co-developed, it means we already have them in house for months or even years! I know that companies like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Greubel Forsey have bought some units. Patek bought 3O units of one of them, for instance. Greubel Forsey also bought one but they sold it.

Having a high end machine is one thing, knowing how to use it properly is something else entirely…

TWL: Do you plan to bring the whole process of creating and realizing a watch 100% in house?

CC: No, 80-85% is good. It lets some key suppliers live. It’s important for the market that they remain alive and well, it’s not in our own interest to be fully independent. It’s a question of ethics to provide good, faithful suppliers, with long term orders.

Read Part.2 of this special interview where Mr. Claret talks to us about this week’s Wow Watch – the Dual Tow!