Archive for the ‘Interviews’ Category:
Maximilian Büsser Tells Us About The New HM No.2 SV!!
The HM No.2 SV © Ian Skellern
As you are no doubt aware by now, Maximilian Büsser recently unveiled the latest and most daring variation of the already exceptional Horological Machine No.2, aptly named the SV (for Sapphire Vision). If you were living under a rock (or worse still, not a subscriber to The Watch Lounge!) and you missed the announcement, you can read all about it here.
Well today we have something extra special for you. Despite the horrendous schedule he is facing in the lead up to BaselWord 2010 (which is less than 2 months away!) Maximilian has very kindly taken some time out to tell us more about his latest creation and share with us the ups and downs of attempting the impossible!
We hope you enjoy it! Please note that if you prefer, the interview is also available in French.
TWL: Firstly, let us say congratulations Maximilian as this latest piece is absolutely mind-blowing! But tell us, what motivated you to create such a challenging masterpiece from a material that is so notoriously difficult to work with? Did you ever stop to think “what am I am doing here, this is crazy!?”
MB: Thanks Tom! From day one when we created HM2, I felt it was an immense pity not to show the 349 part engine, which is not only completely three dimensional, but also designed alongside the cases’ codes and of course beautifully hand finished by Jacques Rochat’s team in the Vallée de Joux. We started experimenting on an open case top on the Only Watch Sage Vaughn version – which was already quite a challenge… and then Serge Kriknoff (my partner in the company) and I thought “what if we took it one step further…?”. And that is when the REAL challenge (ordeal ?) started!
TWL: How long did it take you to find someone that was game enough to take on the exceptional task of crafting the crystal-clear sapphire case?
MB: We contacted close to ten sapphire manufacturers (in Switzerland and outside) – three accepted the challenge. Two out of those three could not come up with a viable prototype after six months and finally only Martin Stettler, owner of Stettler in Lyss (Switzerland), managed to deliver a beautiful piece only three months ago…
© Ian Skellern
TWL: Was there ever a moment when you thought that it would simply not be possible to create this piece? How did you overcome these setbacks?
MB: I remember in September 2009 looking at Serge and asking “Now what do we do or what can we do???”, and he just raised his eyebrows and answered “wait…” and sighed. The wait was indeed extremely unnerving….
TWL: What was the most challenging aspect of creating this piece and bringing it to reality? What was the most enjoyable?
MB: It takes approximately 55 hours to complete one of these sapphire plates – between the machining, drilling, assembly and anti-reflection treatment. And three out of four prototypes broke in the process… Most time consuming is the carving out of a massive block of sapphire. Most delicate is the drilling of the 8 holes that host the case assembly screws. The plate being 3,6mm thick the diamond drills take a very long time to get through – and as it is very close to the side, 50% of the plates crack in that process. The most enjoyable is when of course you receive that first good plate and assemble the first prototype…It is like a baby being born after a very long a difficult labor.
TWL: Does the end result resemble what you originally envisioned in your mind, or is it completely different?
MB: It’s pretty much what I had in mind. The blue water resistance gasket was decided once we had done a mock up with a Plexiglas piece. Indeed with a black gasket, the whole piece was a mix of grey and black – which led to the eye not being able to focus on anything in particular, as if you mixed great tasty ingredients into a blender. So we went for this electric blue which works as the frame to the work of art.
© Ian Skellern
TWL: When you look at your final creation, what do you see? What would you like others to see in it and how would you describe this to them?
MB: It makes me think of a city seen from above through an airplane’s window. You cannot distinguish everything but discern the three dimensionality, parts of the city and certain amazing details which stand out.
TWL: Are there any specific features that you would like to especially point out to admirers that may not be immediately obvious at first glance?
MB: I would just ask them to look at the piece from far, then up close, and finally to wonder how many different machining operations were necessary to create the bloc of sapphire protecting the movement.
TWL: Looking back now on the whole process would you have done anything different in the creation of this piece? Why?
MB: No, because the result is what I had in mind, and that even though we had some sleepless nights wondering if Stettler would manage, it is now a reality, which will start deliveries in May.
TWL: Finally, what aspect of this remarkable new vision of HM2 are you most proud of and why?
MB: That it actually exists…
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Maximilian Büsser nous en dit plus sur la nouvelle HM No.2 SV!!
The HM No.2 SV © Ian Skellern
TWL: Avant tout, Maximilan, permettez-nous nous de vous redire toutes nos félicitations pour cette dernière pièce qui est absolument stupéfiante ! Dîtes-nous, qu’est-ce qui vous a motivé à relever le défi d’un mouvement si complexe, à partir d’une base réputée si difficile à travailler ? N’avez-vous jamais eu une petite voix pour vous dire “mais qu’est-ce que je suis en train de faire , je suis fou ?” ?
MB: Merci Tom! Depuis le premier jour où j’ai décidé de créer le HM2, j’ai senti que ce serait vraiment dommage de ne pas montrer le moteur du mécanisme 349, qui n’est pas seulement en trois dimensions, mais également dessiné en même temps que le boîtier et bien sûr superbement fini à la main par l’équipe de Jacques Rochart dans la vallée de Joux. Nous avions commencé à travailler sur un boîtier ajouré sur la Only Watch Sage Vaughn version – qui représentait déjà un beau défi; c’est alors que Serge Kriknoff, mon associé, et moi, nous sommes dit : “et pourquoi ne pas aller un cran plus loin ?”. Et c’est ici qu’a débuté le vrai défi, voire la véritable épreuve !
TWL: Combien de temps cela vous a pris pour trouver le professionnel qui n’aie pas peur de s’atteler à la réalisation de cette tâche exceptionnelle qu’est le boîtier transparent en verre saphir ?
MB: Nous avons pris contact avec près d’une dizaine de fabricants, en Suisse comme ailleurs, et trois seulement ont relevé le défi. Deux d’entre eux n’ont pu présenter de prototype viable après une période de six mois, et c’est finalement Martin Stettler, propriétaire de Stettler, à Lyss (Suisse), qui est parvenu à livrer cette pièce magnifique il y a seulement trois mois…
© Ian Skellern
TWL: Y-t-il un moment où vous vos êtes dit que cette pièce ne serait tout simplement pas réalisable ? Comment avez-vous surmonté ces revers ?
MB: Je me souviens en septembre 2009 avoir regardé Serge en lui demandant “Bon, on fait quoi maintenant, qu’est-ce qu’on peut faire ?”. Il a juste levé les sourcils et répondu “attends…”, et soupiré. L’attente était en effet assez déconcertante.
TWL: Qu’est ce qui vous fut le plus difficile et le plus stimulant à créer ?
MB: Il faut à peu près 55 heures pour réaliser un des trois verres saphir, de l’usinage, le perçage, jusqu’à l’assemblage et le traitement anti-reflets. Et trois de nos quatre prototypes se sont brisés avant de voir le jour… . Ce qui prend le plus de temps est de rendre incurvé un si gros bloc de saphir. Le plus délicat est de percer les 8 trous destinés à accueillir les points de fixation. Etant d’une épaisseur de seulement 3,6 mm, le perçage au diamant prend un temps considérable; et comme ces trous sont très près du bord, 50% des pièces se brisaient durant l’opération. Le moment le plus appréciable est bien entendu lorsque l’on reçoit un verre fini et que l’on assemble le premier prototype. C’est comme la naissance d’un enfant après un travail long et douloureux.
TWL: Est-ce que le résultat final correspond bien à l’image que vous vous en étiez fait ?
MB: Oui, c’est assez ressemblant avec ce que j’avais en tête. Le joint de résistance bleu marine fut pensé alors que nous avions fini le montage avec un joint Plexiglas. Avec un joint noir, la pièce dans son ensemble aurait été de gris et de noir – ce qui n’aurait pas conduit l’oeil à se focaliser sur un point précis, comme si l’on mélangeait de savoureux ingrédients tous ensemble. Nous avons donc opté pour ce bleu électrique qui intervient un peu comme une trame supportant le travail d’art à proprement parler.
© Ian Skellern
TWL: Que voyez-vous lorsque vous regardez la création une fois finie ? Qu’aimeriez-vous que les autres voient et comment la décririez-vous ?
MB: Cela me fait penser à la vue aérienne d’une ville, prise depuis un hublot. On ne peut pas tout voir, mais on peut distinguer la trois-dimensions, certains endroits de la ville ainsi que des détails significatifs qui en ressortent.
TWL: Y’a-t-il des spécificités sur lesquelles vous aimeriez attirer le regard de certains amateurs pourtant avertis ?
MB: Je leur demanderai simplement de regarder la pièce de loin, puis de près, et pour finir de se demander combien d’opérations différentes il aura fallu pour produire le bloc de saphir qui protège le mouvement.
TWL: Rétrospectivement, y’a-t-il des choses que vous auriez-fait différemment ?
MB: Non, parce que le résultat final est conforme à ce que j’avais en tête, et ceci même si nous avons passé des nuits blanches à nous demander si Stettler allait réussir, ce qui est maintenant une réalité et permettra des premières livraisons au mois de mai.
TWL: Au final, qu’est-ce que vous rend le plus fier dans cette nouvelle vision de la HM2 ?
MB: Qu’elle existe…
Traduction française Olivier Muller – © The Watch Lounge
Interview With Carlos Carvalho, Founder Of The Prometheus Watch Company
The Ocean Diver Automatic – image courtesy of Jittery Jim at the Watchuseek Forum.
A few weeks ago we told you about a relatively new watch company and the rather unique story behind the creation of their first piece, the Ocean Diver Automatic. We are of course referring to the Prometheus Watch Company, a Portugese based company that has produced a very impressive (not to mention affordable) diving watch. So intrigued were we by this innovative little start-up that we decided to learn more and who better to tell us than the founder himself, Mr Carlos Carvalho?
So we hope you enjoy this interview with a man who had both the vision and the drive to turn his humble dream into a reality.
TWL: What was the catalyst that prompted you to establish the Prometheus Watch Company in 2008?
PW: I have always worn watches for as long as I can remember, in fact I don’t think I can recall a time when I was without one! Initially they were all digital watches such as the Casio alarm/chrono types, and later on, of the Timex Indiglo variety. At that age analogue, three hand watches seemed a bit boring to my curious child mind. However that viewpoint changed when around the age of 16 my parents gave me a Swatch analogue chronograph with a tachymeter.
It was through this watch that I discovered analogue watches had a lot more to offer than I previously realized. After that Swatch I didn’t go back to digital, although I was still wearing quartz powered watches. From the Swatch I transitioned to Seiko: a Kinetic stainless steel with a light blue dial, which at the time was my best watch to date. It became my daily wearer and I couldn’t imagine myself without it during those times.
Some time passed and the inevitable transition into mechanical watches commenced. A few years after living on my own and working hard I saved enough to acquire an IWC Flieger Chronograph, which sealed the deal for me: from that point onwards I would only ever wear mechanical watches. I became fascinated by how such small machines were able to endure so many challenges on a daily basis (shocks, bumps, temperature differences, etc.) and still be so reliable and consistent. As my interest grew I felt certain that one day I would have my own watch brand.
Whilst I always kept this idea in the back of my mind, it was a few more years before this became a reality. Through reading watch forums I found that others like me had done the same thing and successfully started their own watch companies. After seeing the success of others, I made the decision to take the risk and fulfill my dream and so here we are now.
Designed by Brian Green – image courtesy of Jittery Jim at the Watchuseek Forum.
TWL: What first inspired you to make the Ocean Diver Automatic? Was it something you thought about for a long time before taking the steps to make it a reality?
PW: As a matter of fact the Ocean Diver has a cool story behind it. I wanted to make a watch that would create bonds between people and allow them to feel that they had been part of its conception through the contribution of their own ideas. In short, I wanted people to feel that a part of the watch was theirs too.
So, to facilitate this process, I came up with the idea of launching a design competition on the Watchuseek Watch Forum. This proved to be very successful, with many people participating and Brian Green winning it overall with his great design.
TWL: What were the biggest challenges you faced in setting up the brand and actually making a high quality product?
PW: In bringing the Ocean Diver to reality we endured a number of difficulties. Initially we were thinking to produce the watch in China but after many trials we decided that the quality was simply not up to our requirements. Therefore we had to scrap the project twice until we finally found a team in Switzerland that could bring the concept to reality without compromising on quality.
TWL: The origins of the design of the Ocean Diver are quite unique in the sense that final look of the watch was the result of a design competition run on the Watchuseek forums. How did you come up with this great idea and do you think you will run future competitions?
PW: As I mentioned before we really wanted to get people involved in the design of the watch and give them the opportunity to develop a bond with it and so it seemed to me that this would be the best way to do that. Obviously this we’ve had some success following this approach and so we do something similar again in the future but it’s hard to say at this stage.
Right now we are just focused on delivering the rest of the Ocean Diver collection, which includes a GMT model and a Chronograph model.
A nice close-up – image courtesy of Jittery Jim at the Watchuseek Forum.
TWL: Given the incredible success of this initial competition will all future designs Prometheus watches come from competitions, or will you perhaps produce a mix of both your own ideas and concepts and those of enthusiasts?
PW: Whilst not all future designs may come directly from competitions, they will certainly come from communicating with our customers and that’s where our official forum on Watchuseek comes in. It allows us to listen and interact with our customers so that we can listen and respond to their needs and from there produce the product they are looking for.
TWL: How valuable was it being able to get regular feedback from forum members during the design and manufacturing process? Do you think that listening to this feedback has helped to improve the sales of the final product?
PW: We think that is a win/win scenario. By giving members a chance to participate and discuss ideas we were able to produce a product that meet the requirements of what they were actually looking for.
TWL: As you are based in Portugal, how difficult was it to organize suppliers and manufacturers in Switzerland?
PW: Thanks to the internet it became easier. The internet allowed us to start to work in a more virtual way, thus reducing the need for a physical presence at the manufacturing site. I am in touch almost daily with the manufacturer in Switzerland and therefore I am able to get things organized from my office in Portugal.
TWL: Looking back now is there anything in the process you would have done differently? Why?
PW: Looking back now I can see how hard it was to reach stage we are at now but it was definitely worth it. It has been a great learning process with every mistake presenting an opportunity to improve. Throughout the process we have learnt a lot of lessons that we feel will allow us to provide better and better products in the future.
TWL: What is the next step from here? Will you introduce another dive watch or will you look to increase the breadth of your product offerings?
PW: At the moment we have our Ocean Diver collection that consists of three models (day/date, GMT, chrono). A surprise will also show up soon but can’t divulge too much right now. (*Editor’s note: the watch Carlos is referring to has now been announced, check it out here.)
TWL: Finally, what is your favorite feature of the new Ocean Diver Automatic Day/Date?
PW: What I really like is its simplicity and way it wears. It is such a comfortable watch to wear that it has become my daily wearer and I’m not just saying this because it’s my watch!
Interview With Master Watchmaker Thomas Prescher
*Please note that thanks to the excellent work of Olivier Muller this interview is also available in French
A few weeks ago we told you about the amazing Qatar watch from Master Watchmaker Thomas Prescher. Held in the highest international regard for his exceptional skills, Mr Prescher has created some of the most awe defying timepieces ever seen, including the Triple-Axis Tourbillon. Renowned for his creativity and determination, Mr Prescher recently took a break from his busy schedule to talk to us about his career as a watch maker, the challenges he’s faced and essentially what drives him to do what he does.
Not be missed, please enjoy our interview with Master Watchmaker Thomas Prescher.
TWL: Have you always been passionate about watches and watchmaking? Where do you think this passion comes from?
TP: When I was twelve an aunt of mine presented me with some crystals. They became my hobby. I decided to become a goldsmith to work more with crystals. While I was still in school I did some work experience in a Jeweller shop and this is where I came into contact with watches for the first time. It became my new passion. Two years later I decided to start my career as a naval officer. I quit the navy after six years to realize my true dream and about a year later begun my apprenticeship as a watchmaker.
TWL: When you were first starting out did you ever think “Yes, I can become a Master Watchmaker and create some of the most complicated movements the world has ever seen?” Did you ever think that you would not succeed in achieving this goal?
TP: The first time was during my apprenticeship when my master asked me behind closed doors if I have done private work without asking his permission beforehand. I swore that I had not and asked why. He said that he found a complicated lever of an old chronograph in the cleaning machine. I wanted to know why this guided him to me. He said “you are the only one who has the skills to make this by hand, all the others would have asked me if they had found this”. Well it came out that it was somebody from another department but it told me that he saw something special in my work.
The second time I knew I could achieve great things was when I was able to finish my four year apprenticeship in three years. I was the first ever to be granted this special permission in IWC and I also managed to submit the best exam in Switzerland that year.
Last but not least, I was given permission to make my first Tourbillon as part of my apprenticeship, an almost unheard of challenge for an apprentice watchmaker!
Thomas Prescher Calendar QP1
TWL: What other watchmakers do you admire and why? Is there anyone in particular who stands out in your mind as having made a significant contribution to your knowledge and success?
TP: I would prefer to describe more what I admire as opposed to whom, and so in this way it will be impossible for me to miss anyone’s name out!
I admire strength and discipline in following ideas and visions to fruition, as well as the patience to realize things, even if that takes a long time. I also admire the strength and determination required not to give up, even if the target is not realistic.
I must make special mention though of several people who had a particular influence on my professional career. The person who made the most significant contribution to my handcrafting skills was my master, who taught me to continually search for improvement. I would also like to acknowledge Richard Habring, who not only convinced my master to grant me the opportunity to attempt the construction of a tourbillon but also gave me basic plans for the movement. And for sure Richard Daners who answered all my questions when I got the chance to make my first handmade watch as an employee.
In large part the knowledge I have now I got from many old books, networking and also most importantly from trial and error. I have also learnt an incredible amount from the restoration work I have done on the watches of old masters, who taught me through their watches what could work and what was better not to do.
TWL: What inspired you to create the first ever double axis tourbillon pocket watch and a double axis tourbillon wristwatch?
TP: I saw the picture of Randal and Goods multi axis Tourbillons in a table clock in a Tourbillon book and I thought to myself how nice but senseless this is to equilibrate different position in a clock which does not change positions. This must be done in a portable watch.
I started with a pocket watch but upon presentation to the public I learnt that the world was not waiting for pocket watches. I created the Triple Axis Tourbillon wrist watch for the next year, because the same people who originally said that the double was impossible were now asking for a third axis, again with the intention that this should be impossible for me to achieve.
Triple Axis Tourbillon Regulator Sport – The tourbillon with three axis – first and second axis turn once per minute, third axis turns once per hour
TWL: After the stunning success of those two remarkable pieces in 2003, you followed them up with the Tourbillon Trilogy at Baselworld 2004, where you unveiled the first ever triple axis tourbillon wristwatch. Did you ever think that you would not be able to achieve this remarkable feat?
TP: I knew it was possible but several times during the process I was ready to go throw it in Lake Biel. However, I refused to give up and instead continued to squeeze the piece, so to speak, and force it to give up its resistance. Finally I won the battle with the Triple. Making it is still like riding a full blood Arab Horse. Very difficult but it brings fun and satisfaction.
TWL: What were the greatest challenges you faced when conceiving and realising these pieces? How did you overcome them?
TP: To create the watch as an entire piece of art. From a technical perspective the greatest challenge was to realize that a constant force in the carriage is more or less a must for a system like mine. It was also very difficult to synchronize the arm of the Tourbillon with the minute hand. That took me nearly the half of the time.
Overall though, the most difficult thing was the realization of a prototype financed 100% out of my own pocket. No bank was willing to help. So I did nearly everything with my turning machine and through this process gained a lot of knowledge.
In my opinion the only way to overcome the problems of an independent start up is strong will, hard work and patience.
TWL: Looking back now, would you have done anything differently? Why?
TP: I have only one life and I am where I am because I have done things the way I have. So following this logic I would do everything the same, because I am happy now!
If I had a second life I think I would do many things different to make it easier for others and also for myself, although if this would result in the outcome I intended, I am not sure at all.
Mesmerizing – the inner workings of the Qatar watch.
TWL: Recently you announced the successful completion of the custom made Qatar watch, from your TempusVivendi range. What was the most enjoyable aspect of designing and creating this timepiece? What did you find most difficult?
TP: I am very pleased by the positive comments this watch has received. For me the most enjoyable but at the same time challenging aspect was the coat of arms. At first glance it seemed like they were almost made for my system, but this was to be misleading. I had to change so many things especially as the swords had to be carried from the external side and not from the centre. It took me a month to develop this new system and another again to make the new parts.
A very nice aspect is that I always have the opportunity to come in close contact with a new field of things when I do the research for a watch like this. I discovered a new and extremely interesting country and culture.
In the end the most difficult thing was to make the design balanced so that it shows perfect harmony in both positions; showing the time and swords up.
TWL: How long does it take you to design and manufacture a custom piece from start to finish?
TP: Depending what the client wants between four weeks and two years. The Qatarwatch took me three months.
TWL: What is the most unusual request a client has ever made from you for a custom piece?
TP: Can you make me this mechanism for a Quartz watch!
TWL: Finally, out of all the timepieces you have ever made, which is your favorite and why?
TP: My new Mysterious Automatic Double Axis Tourbillon with calendar on the oscillating weight. When I first had the idea I thought this is now beyond even my limits. So I started to realize each part of this watch as a single part and then I have put all the parts together to form one extraordinary watch!
Make sure you keep your eyes out for this amazing new piece from Thomas Prescher later this week!
Interview With Master Watchmaker Thomas Prescher (French Version)
Il y a quelques semaines, nous avons évoqué ici l’incroyable montre Qatar du maître horloger Thomas Prescher. Reconnu au plan international pour ses capacités, M. Prescher a créé certaines des pièces les plus incroyables qui soient, comme le tourbillon Triple-Axis. Réputé pour sa créativité et sa détermination, M. Prescher a dernièrement pris le temps, malgré sons activité débordante, de nous parler de sa carrière comme créateur de montres, les défis qu’il rencontre, et ce qui l’amène à créer ses pièces.
TWL: Avez-vous toujours été passionné par les montres et leur réalisation ? D’où cette passion vous vient-elle ?
TP: Lorsque j’avais 12 ans, une de mes tantes m’a montré des pierres précieuses. C’est devenu pour moi une passion, et j’ai décidé de devenir orfèvre afin d’aller encore plus loin. Alors que j’étais encore étudiant, j’ai fait un apprentissage chez un bijoutier, et c’est ici que s’est fait mon premier contact avec l’univers de la montre. C’est devenu une nouvelle passion. Deux ans plus tard, j’ai décidé de m’engager comme officier dans la marine. Je l’ai quittée six ans plus tard pour concrétiser ce qui était mon véritable rêve, et environ un an plus tard, j’ai commencé à apprendre le métier d’horloger.
TWL: Avez-vous eu par moment l’ambition personnelle de devenir un Maître Horloger et de vous dire « je vais fabriquer les plus grandes complications que le monde ait jamais connu » ?
TP: La première fois fut durant mon apprentissage, lorsque mon professeur, me prenant à part, me demanda si j’avais déjà réalisé des travaux purement personnels, sans lui en avoir demandé la permission. J’ai juré que non, et lui ai demandé pourquoi. Il m’a dit qu’il avait trouvé un levier complexe d’un vieux chronographe dans la machine de nettoyage des pièces. Je lui ai demandé pourquoi il avait pensé que c’était mon initiative. Il répondit : « tu es le seul à avoir les capacités de réaliser cela à la main ; tous les autres m’auraient demandé si par hasard je n’avais pas trouvé cette pièce ». Finalement, elle provenait d’une autre section, mais il m’a dit avoir vu un talent particulier dans mes réalisations.
La deuxième fois où je me suis dit que je pouvais réellement réaliser de belles choses fut lorsque j’ai terminé mon apprentissage en trois ans au lieu de quatre. Je fus ainsi le tout premier à disposer de mon diplôme par anticipation, et par la même occasion à présenter le meilleur diplôme cette année-là en Suisse.
Enfin, j’ai eu la permission de réaliser mon premier tourbillon dans le cadre de mon apprentissage, ce qui était une performance quasiment jamais vue pour un apprenti horloger !
Thomas Prescher Calendar QP1
TWL:Quels sont les autres horlogers que vous admirez ? Y’a-t-il quelqu’un en particulier qui vous semble avoir contribué de manière significative à cet univers ?
TP: Je préfèrerai évoquer les réalisations que j’admire le plus, par opposition aux personnes, au moins je suis sûr de n’oublier personne !
J’admire la force et la discipline requises pour suivre son idée et sa vision jusqu’à leur réalisation, tout comme la patience de faire les choses, même si cela prend du temps. J’admire aussi la force et la détermination nécessaires pour ne pas abandonner, même si l’objectif n’est pas réaliste.
J’ai toutefois une pensée plus particulière pour tout ceux qui ont eu une influence particulière sur mon travail. Ces personnes qui ont eu la contribution la plus significative à mes capacités actuelles de réalisation sont mon maître, qui m’a enseigné à toujours chercher à s’améliorer. J’aimerai aussi citer Richard Habring, qui non seulement a pu convaincre mon maître de me laisser réaliser un tourbillon durant mes études, mais m’a aussi donné les principes fondamentaux d’un mouvement. Et bien entendu Richard Daners, qui a répondu à toutes mes questions lorsque j’ai eu la possibilité de concevoir mon premier modèle fabriqué à la main lorsque j’étais employé.
La plupart des connaissances que j’ai proviennent de livres, de mes relations, mais aussi et surtout de mes expérimentations et de mes erreurs. J’ai aussi énormément appris lors de restaurations effectuées sur de vieilles montres de maîtres, qui m’ont ainsi appris comment leurs montres fonctionnaient et ce qu’il valait mieux ne pas faire.
TWL:Qu’est-ce qui vous a inspiré pour créer le tout premier tourbillon à deux axes pour montre de poche, puis pour montre bracelet ?
TP: J’ai vu la photo des tourbillons multi-axes Randal & Goods pour montre de table dans un livre sur les tourbillons, et je me suis dit que ce serait une bonne idée, quoique dépourvue de bon sens, que d’équilibrer ceci dans une montre qui ne changerait pas de position. Cela devait donc être fait dans une montre portative.
J’ai commencé avec une montre de poche, mais lors de la présentation au public, j’ai constaté qu’il n’y avait aucune attente pour les montres de poche. J’ai donc créé le tourbillon Triple Axe pour montre de poignet l’année suivante, parce que les personnes qui pensaient à l’origine que le double axe était une réalisation impossible, demandaient à présent une triple axe, pensant que ce serait pour moi une réalisation impossible.
Tourbillon Triple Axe Regulator Sport – Le Tourbillon à trois axes, le premier et le deuxième tournent en une minute, le troisième en une heure.
TWL: Après le succès incroyable de ces deux pièces remarquables, en 2003, vous avez été plus loin avec la Trilogie Tourbillon, à Baselword 2004, durant lequel vous avez révélé le premier tourbillon triple axe pour montre de poignet jamais réalisé. Avez-vous déjà douté de pouvoir réaliser cette prouesse ?
TP: Je savais que c’était faisable, mais plus d’une fois j’ai failli tout jeter dans le lac Biel. Toutefois, j’ai refusé d’abandonner, et j’ai continué à tordre les pièces, à proprement parler, pour qu’elles abandonnent leur résistance. J’ai finalement gagné la bataille conter le Triple. Le fabriquer reste cependant comme chevaucher un pur sang arabe. Très difficile, mais cela procure beaucoup de plaisir et de satisfaction.
TWL: Quels ont été les plus grands défis lors de la conception de ces pièces, et comment les avez-vous surmontés ?
TP: Concevoir une montre comme une véritable pièce d’art. D’un point de vue technique, le plus grand défi fut d’intégrer le fait qu’une force constante dans le mécanisme est plus ou moins une obligation pour un système comme le mien. Il a également été très difficile de synchroniser le bras du Tourbillon avec le mécanisme des minutes. Cela m’a pris presque la moitié du temps total.
Cependant, au global, la chose la plus difficile fut la réalisation d’un tel prototype 100% financé de ma propre poche. Aucune banque ne voulait m’aider. J’ai donc quasiment tout fait avec mon propre matériel, ce qui fut riche d’enseignements.
A mon sens, le seul moyen de surpasser les difficultés lorsque l’on est une start-up est d’avoir une volonté inébranlable, de beaucoup travailler et de s’armer de patience.
TWL: Avec le recul, auriez-vous fait certaines choses différemment ?
TP: Je n’ai qu’une vie, et j’en suis là aujourd’hui grâce aux choses que j’ai faites à ma manière. Par conséquent, je referai tout de la même manière, car je suis heureux aujourd’hui ! Si j’avais une seconde vie, il y a beaucoup de choses que je ferai différemment, pour rendre les choses plus aisées pour les autres comme pour moi, mais je ne suis pas sûr que cela aurait produit le même résultat.
Stupéfiant – les mécanismes intérieurs de la Qatar.
TWL: Récemment, vous avez annoncé la finalisation de la gamme custom de la Qatar, au sein de la série TempusVivendi. Quels furent les meilleurs moments de la conception et de la réalisation d’une telle pièce, et qu’avez-vous trouvé de plus délicat ?
TP: Je suis très heureux des commentaires très positifs que cette montre a reçus. Pour ce qui est des aspects les plus stimulants mais aussi les plus difficiles, je citerai le formatage des bras. Au premier regard, on a l’impression qu’ils ont été fait exprès pour mon système, mais c’est une erreur. J’ai dû changer tellement de choses, principalement car les lames devaient être amenés depuis le bord externe, et non depuis le centre. Cela m’a pris un mois pour concevoir le système, et encore un mois pour faire les nouvelles pièces.
Ce qui est particulièrement plaisant, c’est que j’ai l’opportunité d’être en contact rapproché avec tout un ensemble de nouvelles choses que je découvre lorsque je fais mes recherches en amont de la réalisation d’une montre comme celle-ci. J’ai découvert un nouveau et passionnant pays, et de même pour sa culture.
Au final, la chose la plus difficile fut de réaliser une conception équilibrée, afin qu’elle soit en parfaite harmonie dans les deux positions, en lecture d’heure comme en aiguille verticale.
TWL: Combien de temps cela vous prend-il de réaliser une pièce complète comme celle-ci, depuis sa conception ?
TP: Cela dépend de ce que veut le client, entre quatre semaines et deux ans. La Qatar l’a pris trois mois.
TWL: Quelle est la demande la plus originale que vous ayez eu de la part d’un client pour une montre sur-mesure ?
TP: Pouvez-vous réaliser ce mécanise pour une montre à Quartz !
TWL:Au final, quel est la pièce dont vous êtes le plus fier ?
TP: Ma nouvelle Mysterious Automatic Double Axe Tourbillon avec calendrier et charge oscillante. Lorsque j’en ai eu l’idée, j’ai pensé que ce serait au-delà de mes compétences. Alors j’ai commencé à travailler chaque pièce comme entité individuelle, que j’ai finalement assemblées pour faire cette montre extraordinaire !
Surveillez bien cette nouvelle pièce extraordinaire de Thomas Prescher dans le courant de la semaine !
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