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Interview With Eric Giroud, Watch Designer Extraordinaire!
Chances are that unless you are hardcore luxury watch enthusiast you are probably not familiar with the name Eric Giroud, but let me tell you, you should be! This man has been the creative genius behind some of the world’s most breathtaking and mindblowing timpieces, including the highly lauded Opus 9 and Glissiere Tourbillon pieces from Harry Winston, the Sequential One by MCT Watches (along with Denis Giguet) and HM No.1 from our good friend Maximilian Büsser and his team at MB&F.
Recently Eric was kind enough to free up some time in his very busy schedule to talk to us about his passion for design, his amazing career and quite simply what inspires him to do what he does best, design!
For those of you who would like (and are able to!) read the original interview, it has been published here…in French!
TWL: What are the top three most challenging watch designs you have worked on during your career and why?
EG: With each new project there always comes new challenges, however, historically speaking the first real challenge for me was working on the design of the Harry Winston Glissiere Tourbillon automatic watch, as this was the first time I had ever worked with a Master Watch Maker, in this case Christophe Claret. Although this experience proved to be a very steep learning curve for me, Christophe Claret was extraordinary to work with and Harry Winston was very confident in my abilities.
The design of HM No. 1 for MB&F was also a huge challenge for me because this required the creation of this new brand’s first ever watch! This was the first time I had attempted something like and whilst I learnt a lot during this very exciting adventure I also had to deal with all the fears and doubts that come with the creation of anything new and different.
Simply amazing – the Harry Winston Glissiere Tourbillon Automatic
Finally, I think Opus 9 has been a great challenge in the sense that I had to manage the enormous amount of freedom I was given as effectively Harry Winston and Jean-Marc Wiederecht left me in control of the conceptual approach of this project. This complete level of freedom is not necessarily easy to manage, but in the case of this project there has been a magnificent support of the other partners and well, the result speaks for itself…
TWL: Of all your watch creations which are you most proud of? Why does this particular piece hold such significance for you?
EG: Undoubtedly Opus 9 for Harry Winston, as I feel a very personal attachment to this project. Not only did it give me the opportunity to take a ‘vacation’ away from my usual work environment but also I had the unique opportunity to experience the richness of collaborating with the team from Harry Winston and the watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederecht. This adventure taught me a lot and was especially rewarding on a personal level.
Managing the freedom to create a prestigious piece is undeniably a difficult thing, but I must confess that I was enormously pleased with the result. If I am completely honest then I must say that when I saw the first prototype I was very much moved by the result.
The legendary Opus 9
TWL: What are your sources of inspiration for the incredible designs you create? How do these influences impact on the overall finished product?
EG: Inspiration…..a magic word! Just kidding, but in fact one must be very inspired to create watches that stand out and are noticed. For me, there are two sources of inspiration. The first comes from external sources such as other brands, images, signs and other data that you feed your brain. The second follows on from this and comes from within, influenced by research and personal culture.
In my case, I am interested in various art forms. I love to listen and discover music, possibly while lying on a sofa. I am a lover of contemporary art and so I spend my time walking through the exhibits and going to meet the artists. In this way I live surrounded by works of art and I buy whenever I can. I also feed my brain with films, stories, and in doing so the imagination of filmmakers. Not to mention the many magazines I look through that help me get a feel for the various trends.
For me music and horology meet within the rhythm and harmony. One minute of music can provoke such profound feelings within me. When I create a watch I’m trying to close myself off so that I can search within to touch the deepest senses.
Besides I like this outlook on the world. Contemporary art helps me to push myself to break out of my habits and routines. The questions posed by these artists stimulate my creativity. Artists have no limits or taboo, they even dare to denounce what is not so common nowadays. I find that confront and embrace this way of thinking is a real breath of fresh air. It helps to create tension and consequently to provide ideas or developments in watchmaking
Still, I think that the impact of inspiration on the final piece does not necessarily play a significant role in the sense of the emotion that each watch evokes. I think that the sources of inspiration are often undisclosed and remain a deeply hidden to the public. What they mean are apparent sometimes only to those who participated in the project development.
TWL: What is the first thing you consider when designing a new timepiece? Why?
EG: The first thing is to understand the requirements of the project in question. Once this is achieved then the creative process can commence through sketches or drawings by hand, allowing me to best understand the various difficulties related to the dimensions and integration of the movement. This forms the core of how to build the watch which is the conceptual phase of the project.
From there I can meet with other people within the brand in question to share my various insights or concepts so that we can define together in what direction we’ll go. It is very important to me to involve the various stakeholders of the project very early in the process of creation to be as fair as possible.
HM No.1 in White Gold by MB&F
TWL: What do you think is the single most difficult aspect when commencing a new design project?
EG: The most difficult aspect is understanding the reason why and the merits of the new project. It is important to reflect on these questions so that the design process can be as fair as possible whilst still meeting the requirements and thus allowing us to then create the object.
I always say this sentence: A good project is a compendium of good questions, and a good product is a good response.
TWL: You have had the opportunity to work with many amazing watchmakers during the course of your stunning career, who really stands out in your memory and why?
EG: Unfortunately, I cannot choose just one, because at each stage of my career and for many different projects I have worked with extraordinary watchmakers who have each taught me a lot. Historically the first that opened the door of his workshop to me was Peter Speake-Marin who made me realize the importance of the movement, of its various components, operation and diverse finishes.
It was then with Christophe Claret and the Glissiere Tourbillon automatic for Harry Winston, where I experienced for the first time the opportunity to work on a project that contained a highly complicated movement as well as incredibly unique design. This experience was made even more extraordinary for me by the fact I was working on the entire project – including the movement.
I must also mention Laurent Besse and his inventiveness and openness as part of HM No. 1 and Jean-Marc Wiederecht for the richness of collaboration and his incredible ingenuity in the context of the Opus 9…
TWL: What are you working on at the moment? Can you give us any sneak peeks of what we can expect from the master designer in 2010?
EG: Right now, unfortunately I can not reveal the projects on which I am working, but what I can say is that I am working on projects for 2011 and 2012. Confidentiality is the watchword of my profession, so until the formal presentation of each new product on which I participate, I unfortunately can not reveal anything!
TWL: Finally, what advice can you give to aspiring product designers who wish to follow in your footsteps?
EG: I have no specific advice to give young designers, however I would simply say that this is a wonderful occupation with a lot of rules. Do not think that freedom is born of the rules though. It takes a lot of patience, humility and belief in different stakeholders and always being very curious and occasionally luck…
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Interview With Eric Giroud, Watch Designer Extraordinaire! (French Version)
TWL: Quel sont les dessins de montres sur lesquels tu as travaillés qui ont représenté le plus grand défi ?
EG: Chaque nouveau projet représente un défi. Cependant, historiquement, le premier vrai défi pour moi fut l’étude du Tourbillon Glissière pour Harry Winston. Il s’agissait pour moi de travailler pour la première fois en collaboration avec un horloger, Christophe Claret. J’ai beaucoup appris, Christophe Claret fut extraordinaire et Harry Winston très confiant.
HM N°1 de MB&F à également représenté un énorme défi, car il s’agissait de créer une première montre pour une nouvelle marque, avec tout ce que cela comporte de peur et de questionnement. J’ai énormément appris lors de cette aventure, c’était une grande première pour moi.
Simply amazing – the Harry Winston Glissiere Tourbillon Automatic
Enfin, Opus 9 fut également un magnifique défi, car j’ai du gérer la grande liberté que Harry Winston et Jean-Marc Wiederecht m’ont laissée dans l’approche conceptuelle du projet. Cette liberté totale n’est pas nécessairement simple à gérer, mais dans le cas présent il y a eu un magnifique support des autres partenaires et le résultat est parlant…
TWL: Quelle est ta création horlogère qui te rend aujourd’hui le plus fier ?
EG: Sans aucun doute Opus 9 pour Harry Winston.
TWL : Pourquoi cette pièce a-t-elle une signification particulière pour toi?
EG: Parce que ce projet est très personnel, car je l’ai crée en vacances, hors de mon contexte habituel de travail. Il l’est également par la richesse de la collaboration avec l’équipe de Harry Winston et de l’horloger Jean-Marc Wiederecht. Cette aventure m’a beaucoup appris et fut merveilleuse au plan humain. La gestion d’une telle liberté pour créer une pièce aussi prestigieuse est de prime abord une chose assez difficile, mais je dois avouer que le résultat me plait énormément. J’ai été très ému du résultat lorsque j’ai vu le premier prototype
TWL: Quelles sont tes sources d’inspiration pour les incroyables designs que tu crées? Comment ces influences ont un impact sur la pièce finie dans son ensemble?
EG: L’inspiration… Quel mot magique ! Je plaisante mais, en effet, il faut être très inspiré pour créer des montres qui se démarquent et se remarquent. Pour moi, il y a deux sources à l’inspiration. La première vient d’abord de l’extérieur, des marques qui vous alimentent de données et de signes. La seconde vient de l’intérieur, des recherches et de la culture personnelles. En ce qui me concerne, je m’intéresse à diverses formes d’art. J’adore écouter et découvrir de la musique, si possible allongé sur un canapé. Je suis amateur d’art contemporain, je parcours les expositions, je vais à la rencontre des artistes, j’aime vivre entouré d’œuvres et j’en achète lorsque je le peux. Je me nourris aussi du cinéma, de ses histoires, de l’imaginaire des cinéastes. Sans oublier les nombreux magazines qui me permettent de sentir les diverses tendances.
The legendary Opus 9
Musique et horlogerie se rencontrent dans le rythme et l’harmonie. Une minute de musique provoque chez moi une émotion d’une force exceptionnelle. Je cherche modestement à m’en rapprocher quand je crée une montre, à toucher les sens au plus profond. Outre le fait que j’aime son regard sur le monde, l’art contemporain m’aide à m’interroger, à repousser mes limites, à sortir de mes habitudes. Ses interrogations stimulent ma créativité. Les artistes n’ont ni limite ni tabou, ils osent, voire dénoncent, ce qui n’est pas si courant de nos jours. Me confronter à eux est une réelle bouffée d’air. Cela m’aide à créer des tensions et à apporter des idées ou des éléments nouveaux dans l’horlogerie.
L’impact de l’inspiration sur la pièce finale n’est pas nécessairement important, car l’émotion que procure une pièce horlogère est propre à chacun. Je pense que les sources d’inspiration sont souvent non dévoilées et restent une partie intimement cachée au public. En cela, elles appartiennent parfois uniquement aux personnes qui ont participé au développement du projet.
TWL: Quelle est la première chose que tu considères quand tu dessines une nouvelle pièce horlogère?
EG: Comprendre le projet en question. Ensuite seulement, le processus de création peut se mettre en marche par le biais de croquis ou dessins à la main. A ce stade, l’objectif est d’appréhender au mieux les diverses difficultés liées aux dimensions de l’objet et à l’intégration du mouvement, ainsi qu’a la manière de construire la montre. Tout ceci représente la phase conceptuelle de l’objet. A partir de là, je peux rencontrer de nouveaux représentants de la marque en question afin de partager mes interrogations, mes idées, afin de définir la direction à prendre. Il est très important pour moi d’impliquer les divers interlocuteurs du projet au plus tôt du processus de création, pour être le plus juste possible.
TWL: Quel est le plus difficile quand tu commences un nouveau projet de design?
EG: C’est de comprendre la raison, le pourquoi et le fond du nouveau projet. D’abord de réfléchir pour être le plus juste possible envers la demande afin de pouvoir ensuite créer l’objet. J’aime à répéter qu’un bon projet est un condensé de bonnes questions, et un bon produit est une bonne réponse.
HM No.1 in White Gold by MB&F
TWL: Parmi les multiples collaborations que tu as eues avec tant d’horlogers étonnants, y’en a-t-il une qui se démarque particulièrement ?
EG: Je ne peux malheureusement pas en choisir une seule, car à chaque étape et pour beaucoup de différent projets, j’ai travaillé avec des horlogers extraordinaires qui m’ont beaucoup appris. Historiquement, le premier qui m’as ouvert la porte de son atelier fut Peter Speake Marin ; il m’a fait prendre conscience de l’importance d’un mouvement, des ses divers composants, de son fonctionnement de ses diverses finitions.
Ensuite, il y a Christophe Claret, lors de l’étude du Tourbillon Glissière pour Harry Winston. C’était la première fois que je collaborais à un projet qui contenait un mouvement très compliqué, dont le design devait également porter sur ses propres composantes. Ce fut pour moi extraordinaire de pouvoir travailler sur la totalité du projet, y compris sur tout ce qui fut relatif au mouvement.
On pourrait aussi citer Laurent Besse, son inventivité et son ouverture d’esprit dans le cadre de HM N°1, ou encore Jean-Marc Wiederecht pour la richesse de notre collaboration, et pour son incroyable ingéniosité dans le cadre de l’ Opus 9.
TWL: Peux tu nous donner un aperçu de ton travail actuel, ou encore des master designer en 2010?
EG: Je ne peux malheureusement pas dévoiler les projets sur lesquels je travaille en ce moment, mais je peux toutefois signaler que j’ai des projets pour 2011 et 2012. La confidentialité est un des maîtres mots de ma profession, c’est pourquoi avant la présentation dans les salons horlogers de chaque nouveau produit auquel j’ai participé, je ne peux malheureusement rien dévoiler.
TWL: Quel conseil pourrais-tu donner aux designers qui désirent suivre tes pas?
EG: Je n’ai pas de conseil particulier à donner aux jeunes designers, si ce n’est simplement leur dire qu’il s’agit d’un merveilleux métier doté de beaucoup de règles. Ne dit-on pas que de la liberté naît des règles ? Il faut beaucoup de patience, d’humilité face aux différents interlocuteurs, être très curieux et avoir de temps en temps de la chance…
Interview With Vincent Perriard, New(ish) CEO of TechnoMarine
This week we were very lucky to steal a few precious minutes with the highly energized, industry legend, Mr Vincent Perriard. Fresh from his role as the Global President of Concord, where he was instrumental in turning around the fortunes of the floundering watch maker, Vincent earlier this year took the reins at the iconic watch brand TechnoMarine. Never one to shy away from the limelight Vincent tells us what he has planned for this cool, hip brand that has unfortunately lost its way in more recent years. However, if TechnoMarine is the sheep than Perriard is surely the shepherd and it seems that greener pastures may just be closer than we think!
One thing is for sure, whatever the future holds, as long as Perriard’s around its going to be exciting!
TWL: What motivated you to take on the new role at Technomarine? What factors did you consider before accepting the position?
VP: I have been lucky enough to successfully reposition CONCORD in 3 years. After 3 years of hard work I started to receive a lot of phone calls… And the day I received Christian Viros’s call, it was different. Christian is one of the most talented managers the Watch industry has ever had. He is the man who repositioned TAG HEUER in the late 80’s and successfully sold the brand in the late 90’s to LVMH…
TWL: What do you feel you bring to the brand that it is currently lacking and why?
VP: E-N-E-R-G-Y… The need for positive energy is important in a brand. You need to have a vision. Translate your vision into an actionable plan. And then stick to it! I can bring this to TechnoMarine with a creative touch and my network.
TWL: At Concord you completely reinvented the brand, shifting the focus entirely and repositioning the brand to appeal to a much different target market. Do you plan to do the same with Technomarine?
VP: Yes. This is why Christian Viros wanted me on-board. My job is to recreate the brand with a new price segment, much more competitive but also much more compelling in a post-crisis situation! With a $300 – $3,000 retail price segment, we are much more “democratic” but want to offer the emotion and the content that you find in watches that cost $10,000+…
TWL: What changes are you planning to implement at Technomarine over the next 12 months and why?
VP: In Basel 2010 TechnoMarine is coming with around 100 new products to give a new dimension and coherence to our collections. We are coming with a total new team of creatives, marketers, sales people and designers. We are coming with a new brand identity with a new logo, color, new marketing concept, new advertising, new brand environment and a distribution totally reorganized and designed to penetrate the territories where we have no presence… this is STEP 1. This will be done in… 5 months of work (we have started our new mission on Sept. 1, 2009…)
STEP 2 is Basel 2011… we will create the buzz by reconnecting the brand with its core DNA: low end meets high end… Expect the unexpected. The brand will be credible, relevant and “cool” again…
TWL: What do you think are the key strengths of the brand? What are its weaknesses?
VP: Strength: The brand has got a great and cool name that evokes something: Technique and Marine… There is something cool in the name. In any part of the globe retailers recognize this name and remember the good times of the TechnoDiamond… The plastic meets the Diamond. There is goodwill, without doubt.
Weakness: The brand has lost its point of view. Its “raison d’être”. We will reconnect the DNA of this brand with great products.
TWL: What does a Technomarine customer look like? What do they like about the brand and why do they choose to wear your watches?
VP: Our customers, back to the late 90’s were watch lovers. They were wearing expensive watches and went to the TechnoMarine universe because the brand was cool. It was not about money. A little bit like SWATCH in the late 80’s. You can be wealthy and drive a mini. You still look cool. TechnoMarine is not about money, it’s a state of mind. And we will recreate this State Of Mind…
TWL: How do you communicate and connect with your customers? Large watch companies are often criticized for not fully understanding and utilizing the internet and social media to market and promote their products. How do you plan to address this issue at Technomarine?
VP: The watch industry has been always afraid to enter into the electronic era… When a manager in the watch industry says “my company invests on the internet”, he says he is investing 10 to 15% of his budget online… and he buys a banner, that’s it.
We, at TechnoMarine, we are preparing a real online offensive strategy where VIRAL marketing takes place. We are producing around 120,000 units a year. Our reach is much wider than many watch companies. The internet is much more direct, more interactive, gives more creative opportunities. If you’re looking to buy a watch today, what is your reflex? You go online to see what the community says about your selected brand. Today, everybody goes online.
We want to strongly invest on the internet because it is much better to “own” one channel and to “treat” it in a very efficient way.
TWL: What does the future look like for Technomarine? Can we expect to see any major changes in design or functionality?
VP: Yes. We are working on disruptive concepts that no one has seen so far… But this is for 2011. We just started. In fact, remember that I started on September 1, 2009, 3 months ago. But you’ll be already surprised in 2010… I hope.
TWL: Finally, what is your favorite piece from the current collection and why?
VP: The CRUISE because the color of the watch can be changed in 10 seconds: new strap, new cover which makes your watch unique and following your mood. This watch is cool. It’s not a question of money, but a state of mind!
Interview With Define Watches – Purveyors Of Fine Timepieces
Too often independent watch brands don’t flourish outside their own country, let alone their own continent, through no fault of their own. They simply cannot match the marketing budgets and distribution channels of their larger counterparts and as such often pass unnoticed by retailers and consequently, mainstream consumers. This is extremely disappointing, especially given the high level of quality and craftsmanship some of these master watch makers are capable of. As such, it is a real pleasure when one discovers a company that has recognized just how much these oft overlooked brands have to offer.
Today we would like to introduce you to Define Watches, an Australian based wholesaler who imports and distributes high-end, niche market watches into and all around the continent. We were very fortunate to be granted an interview with Define’s delightful owners, Peter Petzold and Lydia Dalle Nogare, who are as renowned for their personalized service as they are for the stunning pieces they stock. Today they give us not only an insight into their own business and what they are trying to achieve, but also their first-hand view of the luxury watch market in Australia.
Definitely a worthwhile read for someone looking for something a little different!
TWL: How long have you been importing and selling watches in Australia? How did you first start out in this business?
DW: After moving to Australia, from Germany, in Nov 2008 we started the business and proceeded with import and sales activities in early 2009.
Lydia and I had been working with most major Swiss watch brands from a PR and production perspective for about 10 years. We originally looked into importing boutique Swiss brands however, as we started to look deeper into the matter we uncovered the long tradition of the German watch industry and the quality of its output. Importing independent German watch brands was the logical choice and we are very pleased it turned out this way. The quality is the same if not superior and dealing with independent watchmakers allows a great deal of flexibility and personalization – which is exactly what we are about.
TWL: What do you think are the key strengths of your business? What are the areas you would like to improve on further?
DW: First and foremost the quality, design and workmanship of the timepieces we represent are optimal which makes our end of things more enjoyable. We are both passionate about what we do and believe wholeheartedly in providing personalized and fair advice and service. So, we would hope that great products and good service would be our key strengths.
In terms of improvements, we know that we need to get more information out there to let clients know just how great German watches really are and what excellent value for money they represent especially when you factor in the large overhead prices people often have to pay on some of the big brands. We’d also like to get more watches out there in the retail market and this is one reason we are looking into investing in and setting up a showroom in Brisbane.
TWL: What factors do you consider when selecting a new brand to stock and distribute?
DW: Quality is the top priority as well as value for money. When we started the business we made a promise to each other not to lie or ‘rip off’ customers. Obviously we wouldn’t last long if we tried but we felt it was important to treat people the way we liked to be treated: honestly, fairly and with dedication. If we don’t believe in the brand we won’t represent it and there have been several situations where this has been the case.
Another major influence on our decision is the overall design and uniqueness of the watch. While a collection doesn’t necessarily have to be something we would wear ourselves, it does have to convey a certain balance of form and aesthetic harmony to come into consideration. Luckily, German design principles tend to be understated and minimalistic which we feel translate well to watch design, making our job even easier.
TWL: Are there any new brands you currently have your eyes on?
DW: Yes. There is one particular brand we would like to take on as a part collection and we are eagerly awaiting Baselworld 2010 where we will be meeting with several other watchmakers to preview their collection and a possible collaboration.
TWL: What sort of relationships do you have with your suppliers? Do you get the opportunity to visit and tour their facilities?
DW: Having worked with the big Swiss watch groups and having witnessed the pressure they are under and in turn place their retailers under, it was vital for us to have open, flexible relationships with every watchmaker whose product we represent. From the brands we carry, we know each watchmaker or CEO personally and have almost daily contact with many of them.
Before entering the business it was important for us to gain an understanding about the watches we would represent. So, before leaving Germany we took the time to visit each manufacture and learn how the timepieces are conceived, prototyped, manufactured and serviced. At that time, we also established an open door policy with each company whereby we are welcome to invite anyone who is interested in the brands to visit the production facilities and meet the watchmakers in person. This is a nice bonus that you might not get the chance to take up if dealing with one of the bigger brands.
TWL: The Australian market is often overlooked by more exclusive brands as it is considered too small to worry about. Do you feel that this position is justified? How do you feel that the industry and market in general has changed since you first became involved?
DW: I think it is a combination of things that precludes Australia from consideration as a major watch market in global terms. Population is one, but physical distance and geographic knowledge is definitely another and when you look at it from this perspective you begin to see that people are missing the point with Australia. Many big brands see Australia as being a long way away from anywhere (and it is, the logistics and costs of getting products here should not be underestimated). Europeans and Americans also tend to see Australia as a holiday destination and sometimes have trouble seeing beyond their own shores.
All of this is good news for us. The Australian market is young, accepting, educated, willing to try new products and accept new ideas. We’ve also found that Australians are in general, less brand-oriented than their European counterparts in the sense that they will look around and make their decision based upon quality and value for money not just brand.
TWL: Do you feel that it is growing in its sophistication and appreciation of the world of high horology?
DW: Absolutely. We thought it would take a lot longer for us even to penetrate the watch market in Australia but requests have been pouring steadily in and not just for the better known brands such as SINN or MEISTERSINGER but also for the quite new, small brands like SOTHIS and JOERG SCHAUER.
It would be wrong to assume there is no sophistication in the Australian market, in fact quite the opposite is true, we are discovering that Australian clients are well informed and have very discerning tastes.
TWL: How receptive do you feel the Australian market is to new brands, especially ones that they may not be as familiar with?
DW: To date we have found a great deal of open-mindedness about new brands. It is obvious that people do their research but not having an established brand is not as big a hurdle as we thought it would be. Unfortunately, it is often the retailers who put up the barricades and refuse to take in new brands which is a shame because this ultimately stops client access to good watches.
TWL: What do you think are the key challenges faced by retailers who sell high-end products, such as luxury watches, on-line? How can these be overcome?
DW: From what we are being told, by retailers, the big watch brands impose a lot of constraints on retails which can be quite debilitating. Such things as: minimum order quantities, sales quotas, display regulations, poor service and not to mention a deviation in quality are unfortunately growing issues associated with the high end brands – not just in the watch market. Products are often at such a premium that the cost/value ratio no longer equates. These issues also relate to web-based companies which, in addition, have price pressure from other web-based sales centres.
We are not immune to these matters and have tried to overcome some of the inherent pressures by ensuring that we deal with flexible, fair watchmakers who personally oversee their production standards. We also try to maintain a certain level of personalisation and aftersales support, both with internet sales to areas where there are no retailers carrying our brands and via our retail network of watch specialists. It is an ongoing challenge to maintain product, service and aftersales service but it isn’t impossible and as we are finding, it can actually be quite enjoyable as every watch lover has a story to tell.
TWL: Finally, what are your three favorite pieces from your current collection?
DW: HMMM! Just when I thought the interview was over, the hardest question presents itself.
Joerg Schauer who is known for his minimalistic design and quality production has some really stunning pieces such as the classic edition 10
The complete SINN range is just functionally fantastic and I couldn’t possible pick one as I own 5 and rotate them on a regular basis. I just don’t know any other brand that gives you so much technology, so many functions, such a great range and such good value for money.
Armin Strom’s new ARMIN collection is sublime and the only reason I don’t own one is that I can’t decide which colour scheme I like best.
I also can’t help but admire the delicacy of the skeletonised models from Armin Strom and Jochen Benzinger. There is just something special about hand ennobles movements. It’s like art.
MeisterSinger watches are so simple and unique that they epitomize classical elegance and of course Muehle Glashuette are just German watches of grand tradition and style.
Dornblueth & Sohn is one particular favourite and having owned an IWC I’d select a Dornblueth regulator over it any day.
I could go on and on but I won’t. I guess you can see why we carry the brands we do. They are all so unique and offer something totally different to the next. It is more than work for us, it is a passion.
So, do yourself a favor and check out Define Watches’ online store today!
Interview With Maximilian Büsser, Founder Of MB&F And Horological Visionary!
Four years ago one extraordinary man had one absolutely extraordinary vision. That man was Maximilian Büsser and his vision was, according to him, based on a very simple and fundamental idea: to assemble dedicated Collectives of talented horological artisans, artists and professionals – all friends – to design and craft each year a radical and original horological masterpiece. The rest, as they say, is history. Celebrated as one of the most innovative and creative watchmakers of modern times, MB&F’s creations are nothing short of mind blowing. Whilst they may not suit all tastes, the level of technical and artistic complexity involved in the creation of each highly unique piece is undeniable.
As such, we consider ourselves very privileged to have been given the opportunity to share with you a very insightful and candid interview with a man who is as humble and down to earth as his timepieces are out of this world! We hope you enjoy it as much as we have.
TWL: In a relatively short period of time you have built MB&F into a highly desirable brand which boasts an almost cult following of enthusiasts and a well-respected reputation for creating groundbreaking new and unconventional pieces. How have you achieved this?
MB: I am the first to be shocked by the following we are gathering – and this is no fake humility. When I set out to create MB&F the main goal was very simple: to please MYSELF without caring about any commercial or marketing considerations. Which in layman terms means without being concerned about what any client would like or want – the exact opposite of my previous 14 years in horology which were dedicated to create pieces clients would love.
This selfish approach allowed me to explore territories that would never have been possible in a client-oriented environment. It seems it also triggered a strong reaction in very few but very enthusiast collectors, who clearly found appealing the door I opened. Also, when I speak with the owners of our Machines, they are as much touched by WHY we do what we do, as with what we do.
TWL: What aspect of your business are you most proud of? What has been most challenging?
MB: I am extremely proud of having delivered three Machines in the announced timeframe (one a year) with groundbreaking new concepts and engines which actually all work and have close to no technical or quality issues. That is the power of the Friends concept. By empowering all involved, they have achieved an incredible level of performance and quality.
Most challenging is, unfortunately as with most entrepreneurial small companies which start with small initial investments (in this case all my savings), cash-flow management. I have always paid every bill on time, and this demands quite a bit of juggling as we spend over 30% of our small revenue in Research & development of Machines which will only be delivered two to three years down the road.
The amazing MB&F HM No.1 created in conjunction with Eric Giroud, Laurent Besse and Peter Speake-Marin.
TWL: Looking back at the short history of MB&F are there any decisions you would change, if given the opportunity? Why?
MB: In tough economical times like this year, many people show their real personality. Some are extraordinary, others let you down without a thought. It taught me that I was often too candid, but at the end of the day, I will not change because I just don’t want to become paranoid.
TWL: You describe the concept of MB&F as a human adventure, a journey if you will. Are there places, both physical and metaphorical, that this journey has taken you that you never in your lifetime expected to go? How have those experiences changed your life outside of watchmaking?
MB: Clearly, I am not at all the same man I was four years ago. Stronger, more daring, happier to get out of my comfort zone. More importantly I am truly serene. Sometimes, when I think back at how I launched the company without even having 50% of the finances necessary, I smile at how driven and at the same time completely nuts I was. All this has had a very big impact on my personal life: refocusing on the essential, cutting back on all the unimportant frills most people compensate on, and being able to open up much more to others.
The absolutely mind-blowing HM No.3
TWL: How did you go about attracting financing for MB&F? You mentioned that you used all your savings to start this business and this wasn’t even close to enough so how did you get investors to support you?
MB: I needed my head examined… When I think about it today, it makes me shudder. I started the company with practically all my savings which amounted to approx 700’000US$. Now, the development of HM1 necessitated at least double that.
So 4 months after incorporating the company, I took the designs of HM1 and a plastic mould (stereolithography) mimicking its shape, around the world to visit my best Harry Winston retailers. 6 of them not only ordered the equivalent of 25 HM1 altogether but also accepted to prefinance 35% in advance the order, knowing that the first pieces would at the best be delivered 18 to 24 months later.
So when I talk about “Friends” in the term MB&F, you see it goes much further than a symbolic word. Knowing that I refuse any investors into my company, if the retailers had not accepted to prefinance, I would have had no idea how to make this happen!
TWL: Do you feel that you have achieved the goals you have set for MB&F so far? What new challenges lay ahead?
MB: Succeeding against all odds generates an addiction. That of wanting more. More projects, more explorations, wider horizons. I am working for example on an MB&F concept store called the “Mechanical Art Gallery”, which allows me to meet artists specialized in kinetic art. Mind-blowing…
Profile shot of the HM No.3 Starcruiser…wow!
TWL: Are you ever concerned that you might actually run out of ideas?
MB: Never. For whatever reason I have absolutely no doubt about this… They will differ from today’s as I will be evolving in life, but what makes my heart beat is creating and experimenting.
TWL: Most recently you introduced the MB&F HM No2.2 in conjunction with world renowned French designer Alain Silberstein. How difficult was it to manage the creative process and bring your design concepts into cohesion? Did any disagreements arise on how the final piece should look?
MB: I have been engineering creative joint ventures for practically ten years now (the first was Opus One at Harry Winston which we started working on in 2000). Creators’ egos are tricky animals, but I have never really had many issues, because I admire and respect the people I work with. Otherwise I would not ask them to work with me.
With Sage Vaughn (the Only Watch HM2) and now Alain Silberstein, the co-creations were the easiest to develop because on those particular projects I am seeking their input to enrich my creative world. So basically I gave them free reins, and allowed them to express themselves using our model as a base. In a way this is very similar to common practice in the music world where an artist invites another to compose or sing on one of the songs of the album.
TWL: What do you think fans will enjoy most about the new HM No 2.2?
MB: The reason why we did it
TWL: Can you give us any hints of who you would like to work with next and perhaps what we can expect next from the always incredible Maximilian Busser and his Friends?
MB: 2010 will be an incredibly creative year. We are starting to get into full steam mode!
The original HM No.2, a stunning masterpiece!
TWL: Finally, what advice do you have for aspiring watchmakers?
MB: Being a watchmaker is a calling. Too many youngsters in Geneva take on watchmaking school because they know they will get a handsome salary at the end of it. Sitting at your bench all day assembling horological mechanisms is a very tough job. Before you hit the glamorous jobs in the after sales service (where you become a sort of detective or doctor), or for the very few who one day can set up their brand, there are years of painstaking work on the same calibres, which can drive many to quit.
To become a black belt in karate you have to work your way through years of pretty ungrateful moves…
Intrigued? To find out more visit MB&F’s official website.
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- Nick Orloff: Beautiful piece, regrettably a little (?) out of my price range. I’d love to...
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Stay tuned ! - Jack: Looks like a really nice watch for the price!