Archive for the ‘New This Week’ Category:
EXCLUSIVE UPDATE: Hands On With The New Thunderbolt Calibre From MB&F
In one of those moments of good fortune that don’t come along very often I found myself yesterday in the right place at the right time. The right place being the MB&F atelier in the centre of Geneva talking with Maximilian Büsser, and the right time is 2 hours after the release the first pictures of the ‘Thunderbolt’ movement to the world.
A passing comment from me asking to see the new movement was met with a more positive “Yes” than I had expected, especially given that Basel is now only a few days away. My pulse began to race in anticipation as soon as he left the room to find an example. As Max explained “when we launch the new watch people won’t necessarily be looking at the movement”, so the company decided to release the details of the movement only first so that people would truly appreciate the craftsmanship involved.
A wise move I think as it’s not too hard to imagine that the importance of the movement will be overshadowed by the unveiling of an all new piece, especially when one considers the designs of his other Horological Machines. Still, I can’t help but think what a shame that will be as I gaze at this truly mind-blowing new movement.
So you’ve seen the pictures, but what is it really like?
Well the version I saw was only a prototype, I say ‘only’ a prototype, but the finish was exemplary. If more manufacturers, who will remain nameless, finished their products as well as MB&F prototypes, well I think you can finish the sentence.
Despite have a passing resemblance to a fighter from the ‘Star Wars’ movies, it is the aesthetics of the machine that sets this apart. There is an innate balance between size, function and design that is no accident.
The use of Computer Aided Design allows modern designers free range for their thoughts, which is evident throughout the MB&F range, but at some point the real world must intrude and while pushing the boundaries of what is possible is exciting, compromises must be made. It may not be possible to make all of the parts to the defined size; one compromise may mean another, it is this balance that MB&F has historically got so right, and I am pleased to say that by all accounts they have again this time.
The machine is largely enclosed, this is no skeleton movement, the plates are chunky and have a very architectural look about them. If this was the 1960s perhaps we’d describe them as being slightly ‘brutalist’. Wheels and pivots poke out at you, and more appear as you look from different angles and turn the movement over hinting at the work going on inside.
This just leads to temptation, if only I had my screw set with me, just a quick look inside, but sadly not this time.
Unfortunately I can’t tell you about the weight, but MB&F don’t use a large amount of synthetic materials in their watches so not featherweight, but who cares? All Horological Machines are created with the express desire to make them serviceable in 100 years time which means sticking to traditional steel and brass etc.
This approach also adds to the overall feel of permanence and solidity, it also makes you want to pick it up and run it through your fingers; I decided not to, I’m not crazy, do you have any idea how much these cost?
If you are lucky enough to be going to Basel World be sure to go visit “The Dream Factory” and have a look for yourself. I promise you won’t regret it. In addition to MB&F there will be Speake-Marin, Urwerk and Christophe Claret all exhibiting in the Palace, opposite the Ramada Hotel.
The enduring thought I had after leaving the MB&F atelier was if that’s the movement, what’s the watch going to look like!!
To see all the pictures of the new Thunderbolt movement from MB&F check out our story on it here.
What do you think? Leave a comment. | Filed under BaselWorld 2010, Exclusives and Previews, New This Week
MB&F Releases First Images Of The All New Thunderbolt Calibre For HM No.4
It’s here! Well sort of. Today, MB&F have released the first images of their brand new movement, aptly named the “Thunderbolt”, which will form the engine of the highly anticipated HM No.4. Unfortunately no images are available of the HM No.4 as yet, but these pictures of the movement alone are enough to make us go weak at the knees!
According to Maximilian Büsser, Founder and Creative Director of MB&F, the whole ethos of the brand is about “creating ‘kinetic art which gives time’, this HM4 engine symbolizes pretty well our creative philosophy.”
Just looking at the images its not hard to understand why MB&F have chosen to release details of only the movement first. It is an absolute work of art in itself, a complex piece of machinery comprised of hundreds of carefully constructed, intricate parts. This is like no other calibre you have ever seen before and represents a complete departure from any watch movement known today.
Whilst the “Thunderbolt” movement itself will be exhibited at Basel World next week, HM No.4, said to be MB&F’s most radical machine to date, sadly will not be unveiled until July 2010.
Fingers-crossed we can wait that long!
If you would like to find out more about MB&F check out their official website. And for all the latest updates make sure you become a fan on Facebook.
Weird Watch Wednesday: The Tuscar From McGonigle
John McGonigle © Harry Sk Tan
As you well know by now, we love introducing you to new and original timepieces here on The Watch Lounge. Well this week’s piece from Irish watchmakers McGonigle is so new and original that there aren’t even photos available yet! However, given this young brand’s success with their first piece, a superb watch featuring a stunning tourbillon complication which received critical acclaim for the purity of its design and function as well as for it’s high standard of workmanship and finish, this latest creation promises to impress.
McGonigle Watches
It’s not often you come across Irish watchmaking brothers, however, John and Stephen have forged quite a name for themselves in the exclusive circle of independent manufacturers. Whilst you may not immediately recognize their names, chances are you would have seen their work in some form or another. Both men spent many years working on complicated timepieces with some of the most prestigious brands in Switzerland, before deciding to launch their own brand, “McGonigle Watches” in 2007 at Baselworld.
The Tuscar
Now they have embarked on the next step of their journey with the announcement of their newest creation. Named the “Tuscar”, in reference to a group of rocks with a lighthouse that is often the first part of Ireland seen by those approaching by sea from the west, this new piece features the brand’s new time-only in-house calibre movement.
And believe us, this in-house caliber has some serious credibility.
“First-look” – A drawing of the new Tuscar from McGonigle © McGonigle
“To ensure the success of our new calibre, we teamed up with the legendary Alberto Papi, one of Switzerland’s finest designer constructors, to help refine our movement design and specifications.” says Stephen McGonigle.
That’s Alberto Papi, as in Renaud et Papi. Need we say more?
Retaining the qualities that were so successful in their tourbillon, including its distinctive design elements and transcendental levels of fine finishing, the brothers have taken these unique features and distilled them to their pure essence in the Tuscar.
According to John McGonigle, the intention was to create a “time-only watch with a high focus on excellent timekeeping; a substantial power reserve; solid reliability; and with superb finishing and decoration. The design had to have a clean coherent style and we wanted the principle mechanical elements visible on the dial side. To achieve all of that we had to develop our own movement from the ground up.”
Sounds amazing!
The Tuscar launches with a subscription-only limited edition series of 10 pieces called, “One of Ten”, featuring a white gold case and a transparent sapphire dial revealing all of the subtleties of the stunningly finished movement beneath.
The boy’s first creation, the McGonigle Tourbillon © Ian Skellern
As a subtle point of further differentiation each watch will be marked “One of Ten” rather than traditional method of individual numbering. This first series will be distinctive from the models to follow by virtue of materials used in the movement, the design and shape of certain bridges, the type of finish of individual parts and the engraving.
The Final Word
The McGonigle brothers are true independent watchmakers. The focus is completely on quality, originality and craftsmanship. Nothing is rushed and every step taken is well thought-out and planned in detail. These are watches that are created purely for the love of watch making by two exceptionally talented craftsmen.
If you are looking for a high quality, superbly finished timepiece than look no further, you’ve just found one of the most underrated brands in the industry.
To find out more visit McGonigle’s official website – www.mcgonigle.ie
Tuscar – Technical Specifications
Calibre: McG01 manual-wind mechanical movement
Double mainspring barrels connected in parallel
Power reserve: 90 hours
Balance: free sprung balance spring with Breguet overcoil
Balance frequency: 18,000 bph/3hz.
Balance diameter 12.8mm (large diameter for timekeeping stability)
Gold escape wheel (to function without oil)
Number of jewels: 31
Case
22k white gold case and crown
Case diameter: 42.5mm
Crystals: Anti-reflective treatment on both top crystal and display back
Water resistance: 30 metres/ 3ATM
Dial & Hands
Transparent sapphire dial
Flame-blued hand-polished steel and hand-polished gold hands
Strap & Buckle
Hand engraved 18k white gold deployant buckle.
Black hand-stitched alligator
Classic And Classy – The New Longines Column-Wheel Chronograph
We tend not to cover mainstream brands too often here on The Watch Lounge. It’s not that we don’t like them, indeed we admire many of their exceptional pieces, it’s just that we feel there are already a number of great sites out there that do a more than a sufficient job of covering these brands, like Perpetuelle, FratelloWatches and Ablogtoread. However, when we saw this stunning, stylish new piece from Longines we simply could not help ourselves. So enjoy!
Classic Style
Scheduled to be officially launched as part of Longine’s new collection at Basel World this year, the new Column-Wheel Chronograph exhibits all the characteristics an instant classic should. Subtle and refined in its style the dial looks superb and is clear and uncluttered, just as a chronograph should be. Presented in muted tones that provide just the right level of contrast, this new piece is an absolute pleasure to behold.
The polished stainless steel case is perfectly sized at 39mm, and also is available in rose gold. The brown alligator strap with buckle ensures this piece is both elegant and versatile. This is a watch that can be worn in the boardroom, on your yacht or even on the golf course, the choice is yours.
However, it’s not just timeless looks that this piece has going for it.
Technically Astute
At its heart beats the very exclusive L688.2 column-wheel chronograph movement launched in 2009. Mandated and financed by Longines, ETA developed this exclusive new automatic column-wheel movement for a wrist chronograph, designed to provide an exceptional degree of user comfort without comprising on accuracy or reliability.
For those of you who are after something a little sportier, there is also the Column-Wheel Sports Chronograph (pictured above) presented in a slightly larger 41mm stainless steel case with a black or grey ceramic bezel. Powered by the same movement, the Sports version is offered on your choice of rubber or steel bands.
No word on pricing as yet but expect it to be between $2,000 – $4,000.
The Final Word
Although Longines gives you two choices here the clear winner in our eyes is the classic Column-Wheel Chronograph. It is an exceptionally well-made timepiece and its distinguished yet refined style will ensure it’s never out of place on your wrist, regardless of the occasion. Plus it has the technical credentials to back up its classic good looks.
This is definitely one for the collection.
On-The-Wrist Review: Longio SG3824A Flying Tourbillon
© The Watch Lounge
Recently there’s been a fair bit of discussion about the real value of a tourbillon complication here on The Watch Lounge and it was very positive to see reader’s voicing their opinions and getting involved in the discussion. What you may not realise was that the original catalyst for that article was a new timepiece we were lucky enough to get our hands on from Hong Kong based manufacturer Longio Watch Company. What makes this piece special is that not only is it fitted with a Chinese-made Seagull movement with flying tourbillon complication, but the actual case, dial, and so forth have all been made in-house. And to be honest, they haven’t done too bad a job.
On-The-Wrist
It’s no secret that China has been making watches, especially copies of high-end brands, for quite some time now. However, what is starting to happen is that these companies which traditionally manufactured components for European brands are starting to enter the luxury watch market themselves, with their own original branded products.
© The Watch Lounge
Longio is one such company, offering timepieces with a high-end complications such as tourbillons at far more affordable prices than any European brand has ever been able (or willing) to offer. The piece we received for review is identified simply as Ref SG3824A and features a manual-wind movement with Flying Tourbillon complication with Moonphase and Date.
Overall, on first impressions we have to say this is a pretty nice looking timepiece. The case is very well made and has a nice, solid feel to it and similarly the rubber strap is of good quality and very comfortable (an area many cheaper brands often cut corners.) The watch sits well on the wrist and the crown feels firm and secure when winding the piece. A sapphire exhibition case back gives a rather disappointing view of the movement which hasn’t really been decorated at all and is mostly hidden.
© The Watch Lounge
Unfortunately the dial, however, is no where near as impressive as the case it is housed in. Described by the brand as a “black cut-out dial with black indices” it looks exactly that, a few pieces of plastic which have been cut into shape and then layered over the top of each other.
This is a major sticking point in my book as you spend most of your time looking at the dial and the poor finish really cheapens the overall feel of the watch, which isn’t necessarily a fair representation of the quality. Similarly, both the hour and minute hands and moon-phase complication lack the polished-finish you would get in a European made watch which again is quite disappointing. Add to that the completely ineffective pushers located at 2 and 4 o’clock for the date and moonphase respectively, which despite several futile attempts, I could not get to function in any noticeable way and you soon see there are a few areas for improvement on this particular piece.
© The Watch Lounge
Obviously though the key selling point of this piece is the flying tourbillon complication, and it is undeniably eye-catching (if not lacking somewhat in accuracy, rated at +30/-30 per day.) As it rotates through its 60-second arc you eye can’t help but be drawn to its graceful trajectory, time and time again, and in my opinion this really saves the piece. The tourbillon itself is well-made and well-finished and it is possible to observe it in action from both the front and rear of the case.
Certainly this is a brand that is capable of making a good quality timepiece, there just not quite there yet.
Regardless, brands like Longio still have a veritable up-hill battle on their hands when it comes to overcoming all the damage done to China’s reputation as a result of years of producing cheap, unreliable goods and the country’s supposed inability to be creative. Harder still will be the job of convincing their own countrymen, who are presently enamoured with European luxury brands, that their product is worthy of patronage.
© The Watch Lounge
The Final Word
Undeniably Chinese manufacturers have continued to improve and certainly produced some top quality “homage” pieces over the last few years, however, these were priced at a much lower point in the market. A point, which some would argue, consumers felt comfortable paying. This new breed of luxury brands though is looking to raise the bar again. The timepiece we have here for review today for example will run you closer to $3k – $4k as opposed to the few hundred you would’ve have paid for the homage pieces.
Still, there will be those out there who simply appreciate and admire the tourbillon complication even though they (like most of us) could never hope to own one from one of the high-end Swiss watch manufactures and so these new pieces from Chinese brands like Longio could really provide a realistic alternative. They are fairly well-priced for what they are although you will get zero brand recognition, which may be a good thing if you’re not too proud about wearing a Chinese made timepiece.
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