The Watch Lounge - the Online Watch Lover's Magazine » Recommended Reading

HM4 Thunderbolt – A Tribute To Aviation Like No Other (MB&F Style)

Tom Mulraney — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 13:29:51 +0000

After months of speculation and nail-biting suspense, horological devotees the world over breathed a collective sigh of relief earlier this week as the first images of MB&F’s hotly anticipated HM4 were finally released. Given the magnitude of the occasion we thought it only pertinent that we wait a few days before presenting you with our thoughts, so as to allow us sufficient time to fully appreciate the significance of this new timepiece.

So, the question on everyone’s lips; was it worth the wait? We think so.

Before you read on though, we think it’s probably worth your while watching this video, just in case you don’t know what all the fuss is about:

The HM4 Thunderbolt
More than 3 years in the making the arrival of the HM4 Thunderbolt was arguably one of, if not the most, eagerly awaited launches of the 2010 horological calendar. A harmonious blend of micro-engineering and creative mastery, the HM4 all but obliterates the boundaries between artistic expression and conventional design.

Sadly, many will look at this piece and just see the $158,000 price tag and the outrageously non-conformist design, and dismiss both instantly as being completely impractical and therefore unattractive. And in truth, this is exactly the intention of the creator. The HM4 Thunderbolt has not been designed for the masses, quite the opposite in fact. It has been designed for individuals, and one individual in particular.

Maximilian Busser.

Last year when we first spoke to Max about his vision for MB&F and why he created the pieces he did, this is what he had to say:

“When I set out to create MB&F the main goal was very simple: to please MYSELF without caring about any commercial or marketing considerations… This selfish approach allowed me to explore territories that would never have been possible in a client-oriented environment.”

It is of the utmost importance, therefore, to keep this sentiment in mind when trying to understand the depth and beauty of this timepiece. It is not a traditional wrist-watch and it does not hold itself out to be. It is instead the melding of a childhood passion with a lifetime of knowledge to create an intricately complex masterpiece that is inspired by imagination.

A Personal Tribute
In Max’s own words, the HM4 is a very personal interpretation of what would happen if you crossed a piece of ultra high end horology with the world of aeronautics. It is a unique tribute to the world of aviation, as influenced by a childhood spent crafting model planes and dreams of one day taking to the skies.

And what a tribute!

Crafted from titanium and sapphire, the attention to detail is evident in every element of the sleek, aerodynamic case. The central sapphire case alone required over 150 hours of machining (that’s over 4 weeks of work) to perfect, and provides a magnificent view of the truly astonishing movement. The twin jet-engine like barrel displays take centre stage, providing the wearer with only the most basic indications required; the time and the remaining power. Twin crowns protrude from the opposing ends, each with their own special task, one for setting the time and the other for winding.

In a rather unexpected twist (especially given the manner in which the HM3 Frog displays the time!) MB&F have chosen to use a very simple, very traditional pilot watch dial which seems to fly (no pun intended) completely in the face of the highly unconventional design. However, at the same time this choice of dial provides yet another link between Busser’s childhood passion for aviation and his present day perception, influenced by a lifetime of experience. In a sense Max is almost saying “although some things in my life have changed quite dramatically, I will always remain true to my foundations.” Or perhaps he just likes these sorts of dials!

The movement itself is another story again. Each of the 300-plus components – including the regulator and even the screws – was developed specifically for this revolutionary calibre. Horizontally configured dual mainspring barrels drive two vertical gear trains, transferring power to the twin pods indicating hours/minutes and power reserve. For the first time equal consideration is given to the movement and the case, both sufficiently complex so as to be deserving of each other.

So impressed were we by this ground-breaking movement that we dedicated an entire article to it, which you can read here.

The Final Word
In our very humble opinions this is by far the most personal offering from Maximilian Busser to date. He has laid himself bare in every aspect of this timepiece, drawing on influences from his childhood all the way through to the present day. One cannot help but stand in awe of the courage it takes for the artist to reveal themselves so personally through their creations, completely uninhibited by market expectations or consumer preferences.

For us the HM4 Thunderbolt represents the perfect blending of truly superior craftsmanship with completely unencumbered ideals. Regardless of whether you appreciate the end result or not it is undeniable that we are witnessing the realisation of one man’s dream.

And that is truly something special.

To learn more be sure to check out the official website: www.mbandf.com

The Origin Of Legends – The Sketch Book Series (Finale)

Olivier Muller — Mon, 21 Jun 2010 14:03:09 +0000

Well, it’s the finale of our special series on the Origins of Legends, where we’ve featured the original sketches of some of the best known (and unknown) brands in the world. It’s been quite a journey of artistic and intellectual enlightenment and as it draws to an end we are proud to present to you our final set of sketches from one our personal favorites. MB&F.

In just a few short years MB&F, lead by their truly inspirational founder Maximilian Büsser, have developed a cult following around the world for their unique, bold designs that continually challenge the commonly accepted conventions of watch-making. In this final series of sketches we focus on all three MB&F models presented to date, with a special focus on HM No.1, as after all, that is where it all began.

Be warned though, there are a lot of images, so you may want to take a moment to ensure there will be no distractions for the next few minutes (hours?) before you proceed.

Enjoy!

Those of you with a keen attention to detail may notice that the logo “B&F” appears in some of the original sketches of HM No.1. Although it’s a little known fact, this was actually the originally proposed name – Büsser & Friends. We think Max and his team made the right decision adding in the ‘M’, what do you think?

HM No.1

©MB&F

HM No.2

©MB&F

HM No.3

©MB&F

We sincerely hope you’ve enjoyed our special insight on the Origin of Legends. If you missed the earlier articles please see here for Part 1, Part 2 and http://thewatchlounge.com/the-origin-of-legends-%E2%80%93-the-sketch-book-series-part-3/.

The Origin Of Legends – The Sketch Book Series (Part. 3)

Olivier Muller — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 14:26:04 +0000

This article is also available in French. Please click here.

Ok, so it’s ‘Wow Watch Wednesday’ and yesterday at the end of Part.2 of our special feature on the origins of some of the world’s most well-known luxury watches we promised you something a little out of the ordinary in today’s entry. We’ve already shown you the mind-blowing finished products watch-maker Urwerk is capable of producing (see here for the jaw-dropping UR-CC1 Black Cobra if you missed it earlier today) but now we are going to show you where it all began: the drawing board.

So, without further delay, we present the Urwerk collection.

UR-103 – Early Model

©Urwerk

UR-103

©Urwerk

UR-201

©Urwerk

UR-CC1 – The Cobra!

©Urwerk

We don’t know about you but we are pretty breathless after taking all that in! Stay tuned for Part.4 as we continue on our journey of the Origin of Legends!

Esquisses – A l’origine des légendes (Troisième partie)

Olivier Muller — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 14:25:24 +0000

C’est à nouveau l’heure du ‘Wow Watch Wednesday’, et hier, à l’occasion de le deuxième partie de notre reportage consacré aux origines des plus belles créations horlogères, nous vous promettions quelque chose de différent aujourd’hui. Vous avez déjà pu apprécier dans nos colonnes les réalisations hors du commun d’Urwerk (rendez-vous ici pour faire connaissance avec l’incroyable UR-CC1 Black Cobra si ce n’est pas déjà fait); aujourd’hui nous allons vous montrer où tout à commencé : la planche à dessins.

Assez parlé, voici la collection Urwerk.

UR-103 – Early Model

©Urwerk

UR-103

©Urwerk

UR-201

©Urwerk

UR-CC1 – The Cobra!

©Urwerk

URWERK UR-CC1 – The Black Cobra Strikes

Tom Mulraney — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 10:14:28 +0000

As if you needed another reason to be completely enthralled by Swiss watch-maker Urwerk. Be careful though, this one bites! Officially announced yesterday the mind-blowing UR-CC1 has shed its grey gold skin to unveil a lethal black cobra beneath. As dark as it is mesmerizing, the UR-CC1 in black AlTiN will entrance you with its aggressive style and baffling mechanical complexity. Not for the faint hearted, this is one timepiece that must be approached with respect and caution.

Superbly Complex
The stealth-like styling and relatively simple display of this truly sensational piece from Urwerk mask just how superbly complex the mechanism actually is. Holding the piece face on you confronted with two very unusual but nonetheless simplistic looking indications: jumping hours and retrograde minutes. You see, on the UR-CC1 the hours and minutes count down the time by moving linearly.

To the uninformed that sounds like a rather unremarkable statement. Right now you’re probably looking at the clean, yellow dials and thinking “sure, it looks cool, but should I really be that impressed?” The answer is a resounding yes because the mechanism you see in front of you is so deceptively complex that it took the brilliant team at Urwerk more than three years of research and development and ten prototypes to overcome the technical challenges involved in indicating the hours and minutes in a linear fashion.

Why?
We’re glad you asked!

There were three main engineering challenges standing in the way:

The movement could develop enough energy to operate the imposing minute cylinder, which is much heavier than a traditional hand, but where to find the additional energy to function the jumping hour cylinder?

A toothed rack moves vertically to rotate the minutes, but how to ensure that it operates smoothly in all positions, despite the varying effects of the immutable laws of gravity?

Having solved the power issues related to operating the jumping hours, how to ensure that there is enough energy available for the world-premiere digital seconds?

Still, these seemingly insurmountable challenges were not enough to deter the team from achieving their goal, and here’s how they did it.

Let’s Get Technical
A toothed rack/lever, visible through a display panel on the side of the “Black Cobra” transfers energy from the movement to the minute cylinder. The honeycomb structure of the lever offers the two seemingly contradictory properties of lightness and rigidity. Rigidity to accurately convey the profile of the triple cam to the minute cylinder, and extremely light/low mass so as to consume as little energy as possible and so that position, gravity and shocks have minimal effect.

The mechanism used is reminiscent of those seen in automata. A toothed segment at the end of a rack exactly moves up and down following the path drawn by the triple cam – a path that has been plotted from 104 reference points. Each of the three cams drives the rack for exactly 60 minutes. At precisely 60 minutes the rack drops on the cam provoking the opposite tooth-end of the rack to fall, which triggers the retrograde mechanism and rotates the minute cylinder. And all of this happens in just 1/10th of a second!

The energy released by the retrograde mechanism is recovered and used to power the rotation of the jumping hour cylinder. Visible through a display panel in the side of the case, a 12 pointed star and positioning spring are the only distinguishable components of this innovative mechanism for recycling energy.

Two essential elements, the disk for the digital seconds and the honeycombed rack, anchor the “Black Cobra” in cutting-edge technology. Photolithography was the only method able to provide the degree of accuracy and low mass required by these two critical components – the seconds’ disk weighs just 0.09 of a gram!

The Final Word
Felix Baumgartner, Urwerk’s ingenious Master watch-maker sums it up by saying; “We have created a monster that is hungry (for energy) so we have ensured that all forces can be recycled and reused. It is a very delicate balance as we work within fixed constraints, i.e. available force, mass, and current production technology, and then we go beyond our capabilities.”

…wow.

A special thanks to Urwerk for making all this excellent technical information available to us so that we could share it with you. Make sure you jump on their Facebook Page to get all the latest updates from this truly amazing company!

The Origin Of Legends – The Sketch Book Series (Part. 2)

Olivier Muller — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 14:25:20 +0000

This article is also available in French. Please click here.

Welcome to Part.2 of our special insight on the origins of some the world’s most amazing watches. If you missed Part.1 be sure to check it out here. Today we present to you the original sketches of two exceptional pieces; the DualTow by Christophe Claret and the Jules Audemars by Audemars Piguet. Looking at these images (the first set especially) it really is hard to believe just how superb the final results are!

However, as they say, the creative process isn’t always pretty but it’s the results that count.

Christophe Claret – The DualTow

©Christophe Claret

Audemars Piguet – Jules Audemars

©Audemars Piguet

©Audemars Piguet

In keeping with The Watch Lounge’s tradition of “Wow Watch Wednesday” the sketches to be published tomorrow in Part.3 of this multi-part series will be something a little out of the ordinary which we think you’re going to enjoy!

Esquisses – A l’origine des légendes (Deuxième partie)

Olivier Muller — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 14:24:13 +0000

Première partie

Aujourd’hui nous présentons la deuxième partie de notre dossier consacré aux origines de quelques unes des plus belle montres. Si vous avez manqué la partie ici, vous pouvez la retrouver ici.

Aujourd’hui nous présentons les esquisses de deux pièces exceptionnelles, que sont la Dual Tow de Christophe Claret, et la Jules Audemars, d’Audemars Piguet. A la vue de ces esquisses, le résultat atteint par les pièces finies est époustouflant – mais peu importe la beauté du processus créatif, seul le résultat compte.

Christophe Claret – The DualTow

©Christophe Claret

Audemars Piguet – Jules Audemars

©Audemars Piguet

The Origin Of Legends – The Sketch Book Series (Part. 1)

Olivier Muller — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:57:14 +0000

This article is also available in French. Please click here.

If you’re anything like us than at on at least one occasion you’ve looked at the exceptional timepiece on your wrist and wondered where it all began. We think you’ll agree that watch-making is as much about practical application as it is about aesthetical beauty, with the best examples achieving a stunning blend of both. And so it is then that the design of a fine timepiece is almost, if not as important as the tiny engine that beats within it.

As we sometimes find ourselves fortunate enough to share the precious time of the world’s great watchmakers through the year, we had the tremendous opportunity on several occasions to see some of the very first sketches of their creations.

Some confessed they are very bad draftsmen while others told us that they were always innately skilled in the design of beautiful watches. Some never draw without proper pens and a clear space, while some express their creative mind on the corner of tablecloths, or even on post-its, with the very first pen they find sketching as fast as they can, before The Big Idea flies away (Editor’s note: For anyone who has been fortunate enough to dine with the exceptionally talented Roland Iten you will know all to well that he falls into the latter category, drawing the most amazing sketches all over any surface, including the table!)

Still, we recognize that there is only so much that can be said with words and so we are not going to write long paragraphs about all these beautiful sketches which, in the end, speak for themselves.

We won’t tell you that Ludovic Ballouard always has a notebook by his side, where he scribbles down ideas that only he can decipher; or that Jean-Claude Biver, as he draws, already has a rough idea of what the final product will look like; that Christophe Claret elucidated in just a few minutes the core essence of the amazing Dual Tow; that Jaeger Le Coultre draws sketches that are so perfect that they almost compete with automated software design.

Instead, we will just let you enjoy these beautiful pieces over the coming week. Make sure you check each day to discover where it all began and to learn just a little more about the timepieces you know and love (and maybe even some you’re meeting for the first time!)

Montblanc Metamorphosis

©Montblanc

Ludovic Ballouard – Upside Down Watch

Linde Werdelin – The One

Be sure to check back tomorrow as we bring you Part.2 of the Sketch Book Series!

Esquisses – A l’origine des légendes (Première partie)

Olivier Muller — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:50:13 +0000

Comme nous, vous avez dû vous demander au moins une fois, en regardant votre montre au poignet, comment elle était née. Vous serez d’accord avec nous que l’art horloger se joue autant sur la technicité que sur l’esthétique, et que les pièces les plus exceptionnelles sont celles qui arrivent à l’équilibre des deux. L’apparence d’une montre devient alors presque aussi important, si ce n’est aussi important, que le coeur qui l’anime.

Au fil du temps que nous passons avec d’innombrables et admirables maîtres horlogers, nous avons eu à de nombreuses reprises l’opportunité de voir les premières ébauches de leurs créations.

Certains nous ont avoué être de très mauvais dessinateurs. Certains ont toujours été doués pou cet art de l’ébauche. Certains ont besoin d’un endroit dégagé et d’un stylo bien précis, alors que d’autres se contentent d’un coin de table voire de post-its, armés du premier crayon qu’ils trouvent. Aussi vite que possible, ils couchent sur papier La Grande Idée, avant qu’elle ne s’envole à jamais. (ndlr : pour ceux qui ont eu le plaisir de partager un diner avec Roland Iten, vous n’êtes pas sans savoir que ce dernier appartient plutôt à la dernière catégorie, dessinant des ébauches à couper le souffle sur tout ce qu’il trouve, y compris la table !).

Nous n’allons pas longuement disserter sur toutes ces magnifiques épreuves, lesquelles, en fin de compte, parlent d’elles-mêmes.

Par exemple, nous ne vous dirons pas que Ludovic Ballouard a toujours un carnet à ses côtés, sur lequel il jette à la volée un certain nombre d’idées qu’il est à peu près le seul à pouvoir déchiffrer. Que Jean-Claude Biver, lorsqu’il dessine, a déjà en tête, à peu de choses près, le produit tel qu’il le voudrait une fois réalisé. Que Christophe Claret n’a eu besoin que de quelques minutes pour dessiner l’essence de l’incroyable Dual Tow. Que Jaeger-LeCoultre se livre à des ébauches si parfaitement maitrisées qu’elles rivalisent de précision avec des réalisations logicielles.

Nous vous laisserons simplement admirer ces magnifiques esquisses. Restez en ligne dans les prochains jours pour découvrir ces ébauches et en savoir un peu plus sur ces pièces (et même si vous les découvrez dans ces colonnes !).

Montblanc Metamorphosis

©Montblanc

Ludovic Ballouard – Upside Down Watch

Linde Werdelin – The One

Special Preview: Fellows & Sons Watch Auction Featuring Some Rare Timepieces

Tom Mulraney — Sun, 13 Jun 2010 14:39:04 +0000

Auctions and vintage watches in general are typically not an area we are well versed in, and so often we prefer to leave the topic to our far more enlightened friends over at Hodinkee.com. However, recently we became privy to some exclusive news that has not yet been formally announced to the public and so we felt the need to share it with you. Whilst it won’t appeal to all our readers, we know that we have at least one Rolex fan here on The Watch Lounge and so if nothing else, this is for him.

So What’s The News?
The upcoming auction presented by the UK-based auction house, Fellows & Sons, of course! The auction is scheduled for the 5^th of July and will include a number of exceptional second-hand timepieces from well-known brands such as Patek Philippe, Breitling, Cartier, Omega and of course Rolex. The full catalog is available to view on-line here, and we highly recommend you check it out.

Of special note for us are a couple of very well-known vintage Rolex timepieces which we think are sure to generate some buzz amongst collectors and enthusiasts alike. First is a 1973 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Explorer II superlative chronometer, with an estimate of between £8,000 and £12,000.

Although it’s probably not widely known outside of collector circles this particular model was often unofficially referred to as the Steve McQueen Explorer, which was in fact rather misleading (click here to read why). Still, misconception or not, this misnomer did cause the value of these Explorers to sky-rocket and they are still very popular with collector’s today, meaning that it may just increase in value as time goes on and so could possibly be construed as “a good investment.” (Just in case you needed a reason to buy it.)

Rolex had originally designed the watch specifically for adventurers and cave explorers, introducing more complex distinctions such as a 24 hour fixed bezel. This stainless steel 1655 model, with black matt dial and luminescent markers, is also one of the few Rolex watches which can also be used as a compass making it one of the first ultimate precision time pieces.

However, don’t put away you cheque book again just yet, as also up for auction is this superb and not to mention quite rare 1977 Rolex Comex (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertise) Diver Superlative Chronometer with an estimate of £20,000 – £30,000.

This special version of the 1665 Rolex Sea-Dweller model was created for the French commercial diving company after they experienced a technical problem with a previous model . This very special watch is suitable for some of the greatest sea beds with a depth rating of 2000 feet and was (and still is) highly regarded for its unique Triplock crown which protects the movement. Another one sure to be a big hit with collectors the iconic ‘COMEX’ logo is displayed prominently on the dial.

The Final Word
Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a novice enthusiast the Fellows & Sons watch auction is sure to have something for you. So don’t delay, check out their on-line catalog now and start making your list of all the pieces you want to add to your collection! No matter where you are in the world the excellent people at Fellows will ensure that you can participate in the auction and will not be disadvantaged in any way by distance. And don’t forget, as the saying goes, you have to be in it to win it!

Happy bidding and good luck!