Earlier this year our good friends over at Watch-Anish managed to snag some time with industry legend Laurent Picciotto, owner of Parisian retailer Chronopassion and big-time player behind the scenes when it comes to supporting new brands. He shared his thoughts on investing in new brands and what he looks for when something new comes his way. It’s a rare insight from one of the most beloved ‘behind-the-scenes’ players in this industry and I really recommend watching it.
This is part 1 of a 3 part series, so stay tuned for part 2 and 3.
Yesterday, Anish and I had the distinct pleasure of lunching with Roland Iten and his lovely wife, Carol Galiano, at a great little Italian restaurant here in London. Now if you’re not familiar with Mr. Iten’s work already it probably just means you move in the wrong social circles – sorry about that.
Best known for his exotic luxury belt calibers, the range also extends to equally exotic and luxurious credit card holders and mechanical cuff links, among other things, all of which Roland will invariably have attached to different parts of his person when you meet him. In fact, in my experience, simply giving Roland the once-over is a great way to learn more about what the brand has to offer.
Yesterday was certainly no exception, with one item in particular really catching my eye; Roland’s very own RZ8 Mark II Cufflinks, codename: Ziletto.
Ok, so you’ve done your research and sorted out your finances and now you’ve finally bought your dream watch. Only problem is what do you wear it with? Well, Richard Mille has a suggestion, how about a set of surprisingly complex, automatic cufflinks?
Despite being centuries old the Swiss watchmaking industry is still surprisingly youthful, relatively speaking of course! Many of the brand’s rising stars are still yet to pass their 30th birthday, making for a vibrant environment rich with creativity and youthful exuberance. In recognition of this Girard-Perregaux has launched an exciting new initiative, a print and online journal called the ‘New Face of Tradition’ aimed at the promotion and celebration of a new and exciting generation of watchmakers.
The New Face of Tradition is in fact made up of eight young Girard-Perregaux watchmakers carefully selected to usher Haute Horlogerie into the twenty-first century and beyond. Among them is Laetitia Pino, a self-confessed puzzle enthusiast who revels in putting complex things together. Listening to her talk about her first passion it’s not hard to see why she has become so talented at her second, watchmaking;
“I became fascinated with puzzles when I was very young. I would see images in books, magazines or in daily life, and in my mind, turn them into beautiful, complex puzzles. I soon discovered the whole process of fitting pieces together and giving life to an alternate world brought me inexplicable peace of mind.
This “puzzle” factor is what inspired me to go into watchmaking; I love fitting the different parts together to create a beautiful timepiece.”
Along with Laetitia there are seven other fascinating young watchmakers to discover, each of which I found personally quite interesting and entertaining. With the exception of some of the more notable independent watchmakers it is not often to that you get to see the faces and hear the stories of the people behind these delightful creations, and I feel that this new concept really introduces that human element so often lacking in this, at times, clinical industry.
Echoing these sentiments is Michele Sofisti, the CEO of Sowind Group (Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard) and one of the main driving forces behind this new initiative.
“Too often brands hide their talented watchmakers behind the curtains of their manufactures. We are proud of the young artists we share our passion for watchmaking with and are excited to show to the world who they are.The New Face of Tradition seeks to break away from the current image many people have of the craft. It is not an antique (and certainly not a dead) art; it is young, revitalized and constantly evolving, much like the people behind it”.
“Each time an old man dies, it’s a library that burns” – African proverb by Ahmadou Hampathe Ba.
George Daniels built his reputation restoring and repairing the exceptional creations of Abraham Louis Breguet and, like his predecessor had a century before him, made it his life’s work to constantly search for ways to improve watchmaking. During his legendary career spanning 42 years he created 37 different watches completely by himself, excluding prototypes, with each designed as a way to test new ideas, new processes. Whilst most manufacturers focus on registering new patents and developing new materials, Daniels was more concerned with generating new ideas and then finding ways to implement them.
His most notable invention, the now well-known co-axial escapement, was simply too ahead of its time for the watchmaking industry when he first created it back in the 1970s. It’s not common knowledge but Daniels actually struck out with Rolex and Jaeger-LeCoultre first before Omega agreed to buy the new technology. It’s hard not to imagine that the fate of either of those manufactures could have been changed significantly if they had given Daniel’s escapement the credit it deserved. (Editor’s Note: Although fortunately both brands are still doing exceptionally well.)
Although Daniels left this world a highly respected, watch-making legend, his beginnings were incredibly humble.
“We were really scruffy gutter kids.”
These words from Daniels are indicative of the impoverished household in which he grew up, sharing what little possessions he had with his 8 brothers and sisters as the world struggled through the Great Depression. His first experience with watches came at the tender age of six when he discovered a watch in the house. According to Daniels he didn’t know who it belonged to, but as far as he was concerned it was fair game to open it up with a bread knife and examine its contents. Although it wasn’t functioning the movement he discovered inside still had all the potential qualities of the complexity of a watch, which he found very intriguing.
As time went on and Daniels grew older, the opportunities to work increased and as a consequence so did his level of remuneration. He had his own money now, not a lot mind you but maybe just enough to buy his first few broken watches to repair, but this was 1944 and fate had other plans for Daniels. Like every other healthy young man his age at the time, he was conscripted into the British Army.
“For the first time in my life I had a bed to myself”, said Daniels.
Unperturbed by this interruption however Daniels pursued his passion for watch-making and watch repairs, using his time as an enlisted man to start honing his skills:
After finishing his service in the armed forces Daniels made his way back into mainstream society, eager to continue the development of his horological endeavors. Of course at this stage he only saw himself as a watch repairer, the idea of becoming a world famous watch-maker too outrageous to even warrant a second thought. As time went on and he honed his skills working on a variety of different timepieces it became clear that he was in possession of an extraordinary talent, one that would enable him to transcend the world of watch repair.
“Breguet, the most celebrated watchmaker…
but not the greatest“. That’s what history tends to forget explains Daniels, “Everything necessary for the creation of a precision watch had been done. I had to surpass him ».
In 1968 the quartz movement (excuse the pun) was already well under way and makers of mechanical watches the world over were holding their heads in despair. However Daniels found inspiration in this new innovation, it gave him another reason to make his own watch: “My plan was to build a watch the could outwit the quartz watch. And when I was satisfied (with the watch I made), there was always another nutcase like me waiting to buy it “.
One of these so-called ‘nutcases’ was his friend Sam Clutton. He bought the first Daniels watch for 1200 £ in 1969. In the 90’s, the last one Daniels made sold for 200’000 £.
Of course, Daniels is known above all for his ability to make a watch from scratch – literally – including the tools themselves. Perfection was the goal he constantly aspired too, and in spite of his technical brilliance he never overlooked the importance of aesthetics in watchmaking: ”The beauty of a watch is geometric and aesthetic and about timekeeping “, he said. Of course CNC had no place in his creations, as he put it he liked to use “primitive tools. There was no point in changing them. I used lathed, files, pliers, wirecutters, screwdrivers, hammers, saws. Everything by hand. AutoCAD does not understand elegance “.
“I outdid Breguet”
When Omega bought his co-axial escapement, Daniels showed the world that his invention was as simple as it was necessary: “My idea was that the co-axial had to keep better time than any other mechanical escapement or quartz watch, and it does. The co-axial utilizes the last of the remaining unused principles in the impulsion of the escapement. Watchmakers may have to work five hundred years to find a better escapement“.
There is one thing for sure, Mr Daniels: even in 500 years, we will remember your work, your passion, your devotion and your invaluable contribution to the watch world.
Thank you Sir.
Original story by Olivier Müller – Quotes from the excellent book of Michael Clerizo, “Masters of contemporary watchmaking” that you can order here.