Archive for the ‘Watch of the Month’ Category:
Weird Watch Wednesday: Rebellion T-1000 (With Video!)
As our exclusive coverage of Basel World 2010 draws to a close we thought we would save the best to last. Ian Skellern, reputed photographer and industry consultant, has suggested that if this particular piece was not the absolute highlight of the show it certainly ranks as one of the best new creations this year and we tend to agree. The watch we are talking about of course is the all new Rebellion T-1000 from Swiss watch-maker Rebellion. If you’re wondering what the ‘1000’ in the title stands for you’ll soon find out.
Breaking All The Rules
This is the second piece we covered from Rebellion here on The Watch Lounge, with the first being the Predator we told you about here. Like the Predator, the all new T-1000 takes its design cues from motor racing and has also been created in conjunction with world famous watch designer Eric Giroud (whom we interviewed here just a few months ago.)
However, its not the T-1000’s looks that make it truly unique, although they certainly do stand out in their own right and will be discussed in more detail later, it’s the movement that sets this timepiece apart from others.
The generally accepted power reserve level for a manually wound movement is typically somewhere between 48 and 72 hours, although some movements do offer a slightly higher reserve. The Rebellion T-1000 has a mind-blowing power reserve of 1,000 hours! (hence the name). That means you can wind it today and it would still be keeping perfect time in over a month’s time!
And in case you were wondering, yes it is some kind of record, a world record in fact.
In order to generate this truly impressive power-reserve Rebellion designed a patented system that uses no less than six (that’s right, six!) mainspring barrels that are wound by a specially designed lever that hinges up-wards from the case. When the lever is not being used to wind the movement it sits flush on the top of the case and simply becomes part of the watch’s unique aesthetic appeal. In order to distribute the energy generated evenly the six barrels are wound in parallel via a central prop shaft which drives two small chains. In order to maintain the regular power supply to the regulator at an optimum level, however, the mainsprings discharge in series (2 x 3).
It all sounds very complex and trust us it is. So rather than trying to go into any more detail about how the winding process works and so on, we’ve just included this very cool video from Ian Skellern of how it looks:
The design itself is another matter altogether. Time is displayed via a vertical roller-display and the wearer can observe the double balance tightly controlling the release of power at the 6 o’clock position. Because of the unique design of the movement it almost appears like the time display is floating in the middle of the case and the font and presentation style are very reminiscent of race cars. Although this is a highly complex piece it is incredibly legible and very easy to read which is hugely important in racing, even if this particular piece is never likely to see any track time.
Making sure that you can keep an eye on the unwinding of the immense power store, a window in the side of the case reveals one of the mainspring barrels, with markers providing a natural “Fuel Gauge” of the state of the power reserve.
The Final Word
The T-1000 is one of those special pieces that truly transcends modern watch-making. Hate it or love it from an aesthetic perspective it is impossible to deny the technical and mechanical achievements that this amazing piece represents. As Bill Gates once famously said, “innovate or die”, and it seems that the very intelligent people over at Rebellion have got the right idea.
This is not just about creating a timepiece with a 1,000 hour power reserve, this is about the realization of a concept that was previously thought to be unworkable and bringing it to fruition to a point where it is ready to be taken to the market. If companies like Rebellion stop pushing boundaries and breaking the rules, then the industry will stagnate and eventually cease to be relevant.
So with that in mind, we take our collective hats off to these veritable geniuses who dare to have a vision.
A special thanks again to Ian Skellern for his fantastic photography and video.
1 Excellent Comment | Filed under BaselWorld 2010, New This Week, Watch of the Month, Wow Watch Wednesday
Harry Winston: Opus 9
First launched in 2001, the Opus Series from Harry Winston has redefined the way we think about watch-making and indeed the simple act of telling the time. Every new piece in the series is a celebration of unprecedented collaboration by the industry’s most revered independent watch makers with results that both astound and delight. Released earlier this year the Opus 9 carries on this proud tradition to stunning effect.
The Simplicity Of Time
The hallmark of this latest creation from Harry Winston is its simplicity. In this stunning new creation the fine art of watch making has been reduced down to the absolute essentials. And yet the final result is unlike anything we have seen before; technically brilliant and at the same time unequivocally modern. This is linear driven time – expressed in diamonds.
Diamonds of Time
Typically diamonds are used solely to add to the visual appeal or a precious timepiece, however, in the Opus 9 this has been relegated to a secondary function. Replacing the traditional watch hands and cyclical dial, time is displayed by two parallel diamond chains, for hours and minutes. That’s right, you didn’t misread. Time is displayed in diamonds.
The effect is breathtaking. Each chain is luxuriously adorned with 33 baguette-cut diamonds, Harry Winston’s signature shape. Brilliant mandarin garnets are tactically positioned to indicate the hours and minutes. Meticulously calibrated, each stone is perfectly set into the links, to ensure movement, while maintaining their brilliance.
Crafted in brass, the chains are designed to maximize mobility while minimizing friction. True to form Harry Winston’s iconic, invisible settings give the gemstones the appearance of floating lines of light simply suspended in space across the face of the watch.
The case of itself is a thing of beauty yet at the same time entirely functional. Designed to emphasize the functional beauty of the diamonds, while supporting the movement it is crafted in white gold. The unusual bridge running through the centre of the dial lends both technical and aesthetic stability to the design forming a lynch-pin lock that secures the mobile components of the watch in place, creating additional stability and shock resistance. Encased in – a poetic view of time elapsing.
Mechanics Of A Masterpiece
Keeping with the simplistic theme the chains are powered by a strong automatic movement, concealed entirely within the case. A rack and pinion mechanism is needed to transform rotational time into linear time, creating the lateral drive needed to propel the continual gliding movement.
Though is seems simple enough in theory, in practice extreme balance and mechanical precision are essential to mobilize the weight of the diamond chains. While chain mechanisms have been explored before, the added weight of diamonds presents a new technical and functional challenge.
The Final Word
A stunning feat of architectural engineering, Opus 9 marks the first time that Harry Winston has partnered with two, independent pioneering forces in haute-horlogerie; long-time Winston designer and watch maker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and legendary designer Eric Giroud. Simplistic yet at the same time mesmerizingly complicated, the Opus 9 represents a new level of watch-making the likes of which the world has not seen before.
For this the Opus 9 is The Watch Lounge’s inaugural ‘Watch Of The Month.’
Louis Erard 1931 Classic Moon Phase, A Lesson In Refinement
In a world of increasingly complicated and cluttered watch dials this new offering from Louis Erard takes a far more modest approach, with anything but modest results! Classic, unpretentious, reliable: the 1931 collection is dressed in its most beautiful finery in this chocolate-toned moon phase version. One look at its simple yet very delicate design and you will fall under its seductive spell. This timepiece doesn’t so much ask for attention as command it, with its subtle features combining seamlessly into a brazen, and yet at the same time refined, statement of style.
title
This watch will certainly not suit all comers yet this only serves to add to its allure. Like its future owners, this timepiece has no time for fanfare or frivolities. If you are looking for a new watch that will make a bold statement to the masses, then the Louis Erard is not for you. However, if you are a more refined consumer looking to reflect your sophisticated appreciation for the finer things in life, then the 1931 Collection is definitely worth you consideration.
To further whet your appetite, the following specifications give an indication of this watch’s hertiage:
- Movement – Automatic, ETA 2824-2, Dubois Dépraz 9000 module
- Functions – Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month, moon phases
- Case – Stainless steel, 40 mm, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 50 m
- Dial – Chocolate, applied silvered hour-markers
- Bracelet/Strap – Chocolate leather with stainless steel folding clasp
- Other versions – Small seconds with hand-wound mechanical movement, Peseux 7001 calibre
- GMT Large Date with automatic mechanical movement, ETA 2892, TT651 module
The Louis Erard 1931 Classic Moon Phase, for those who appreciate the beauty of pure refinement.
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