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Behold: The Phoenix 10.1, By A. Favre & fils
When you represent 10 generations of watchmakers it is more than understandable that you may feel a little pressure. However, if he does, Laurent Favre does not show it. Instead, he gives us a timepiece of exceptional quality and refinement; the utterly unique Phoenix 10.1.
Representing the culmination of nearly three centuries of watch-making know how, the Phoenix will both deceive you with its simplistic design and at the same time delight you with its hidden complexities.
Keeping It In The Family
Laurent can trace his watch-making heritage all the way back to 1718 thanks to an official document saved in the Neuchâtel State Archives. This document is in fact a contract between Abraham Favre and the master watchmaker Daniel Gagnebin, in which Gagnebin committed to teach Favre the profession of watch-making to the extent of his knowledge for a period of three years, thus marking the beginning of the Favre watch-making history.
Over the ensuing centuries the Favre name has continued remained involved in watch-making in one capacity or another. Now, after a lifetime of grooming Laurent has become the 10th generation of Favre’s to heed the watch-making call. Although centuries of knowledge flow through his veins, Laurent wisely chose to spend the first years of his career learning the industry, working as the Head of Communication and later on as the Head of Product Development for a well-known Swiss brand.
Once he felt he had learnt all that he needed to, he was ready to step out and design his first piece under the A. Favre & fils’ name.
The result?
The Phoenix 10.1. A gorgeous timepiece that showcases Favre’s remarkable abilities both as a watch-maker and a product designer.
The Phoenix 10.1
Quite obviously the first thing you notice when you look at the Phoenix is that one quarter of the dial is dedicated to the date display. Called the Quantième à Grand Affichage Rotatif, this big date display is an original and patented development designed in-house by Favre. The purpose of this unique system is to optimize the number of components, therefore increasing reliability, by reducing the number of moving parts to the minimum: in this case, just two.
Not only is it supremely easy to read, it is also completely unlike anything you will find on another timepiece, ensuring that your watch stands out from the crowd for all the right reasons.
However, whilst the large date display may be the most obvious example of what makes this piece special, it is by no means the only one. To illustrate, the seemingly simplistic 41mm case is actually quite a complex assembly designed based on the principles of the Golden Ratio (φ) and the Golden Number (7) from the Pythagorean School. Unfortunately it is too difficult to explain these concepts in detail, however, the brand’s website contains an excellent series of diagrams which will walk you through the process.
Housed within the 18k white gold or Palladium 150 case and visible through the sapphire case back is a superb, manual-wind in-house calibre DB 1334/1 HENRY (a tribute to Henry A. Favre, 8th generation of the Favre watchmakers) beating at 28,000 variations per hour. A combination of modern technology and centuries of watch-making history, the exceptionally well-made movement is treated to a number of traditional finishing techniques including; chamfering, drawing, circular graining, sinks entirely done by hand, and a “Rayons de la Gloire” (Rays of Glory) machine finish on the bridges.
Parallel twin barrels with direct depth offer up to 84 hours of power reserve when fully wound, with a power reserve indicator visible through the sapphire case-back.
The Final Word
Although the Phoenix 10.1 is an exceptional timepiece, what truly makes it attractive is its relative anonymity. So far the piece has received limited coverage in watch media, although everything that has been written is, not surprisingly, very positive. As such, this represents a unique opportunity for you to acquire a piece that will not only be the envy of your peers but also truly showcase your credentials as a fine timepiece connoisseur.
Be warned though, it won’t take long before this piece becomes a big hit.
To find out more visit the brand’s official website at: www.afavrefils.com
What do you think? Leave a comment. | Filed under Exclusives and Previews, New This Week, Watch Reviews
De Bethune DB 25 Sport Watch – Take A Closer Look
Some said it simply wasn’t possible to make a high-end, superbly crafted and highly practical sport’s watch. Swiss watchmaker De Bethune said otherwise. And lucky for us they did because the DB 25 sports watch the company has created is simply stunning. However, as you’ll soon find out, it’s not just about good looks this is a high-end sports watch that has been designed to be worn.
The De Bethune Story
Don’t be too surprised if you haven’t heard of De Bethune before but definitely be disappointed. This young company has managed the amazing feat of producing some of the most outstanding pieces the industry has seen of recent times (such as their truly remarkable ‘Dream’ watches) whilst still managing to fly relatively under the radar in mainstream watch media.
Why this is the case I have no idea, however, take my advice and have a closer look at this amazing watch-maker (you can start by checking out their website: www.debethune.ch).
When you consider who is behind De Bethune, however, it is not hard then to understand the company’s ability to demonstrate sheer creative brilliance and highly innovative thinking. The brainchild of two highly respected industry veterans, De Bethune was founded in 2002 by Denis Flageollet and David Zanetta. The former has spent his career creating watches and mechanical calibers and is credited with creating over 120 exceptional timepieces while the latter has built a world-class reputation for his unparalleled knowledge of historical watch-making, spending a considerable amount of his career as a consultant to some of the world’s most prestigious watch collections.
Ever since the company’s formation the two have worked together to successfully create timepieces that blend traditional watch-making with highly-innovative thinking and simply transcend all expectations.
The DB 25 sport watch we have for you today is no exception
Re-defining The Sport Watch
The DB 25 is not a traditional sport watch in any sense of the word. For starters it looks far too delicate and expensive. Yet its elegant simplicity belies the piece’s robust design and technical superiority. For example, the 44mm case and lugs are machined from a single solid block of gold rather than soldered. This process, while more demanding (and expensive) to manufacture ensures greater strength and seamless design ensuring the piece not only looks amazing but is also comfortable to wear.
Similarly the hand guilloched dial, available in blued titanium or silvered, is crafted with absolute precision and provides the wearer with a stunningly attractive piece that is uncluttered and easy to read. The trademark power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock helps you keep an eye on the impressive energy storage capacity of 6 days, although given that this is an automatic movement its purpose is arguably more visual appeal than practical application. Still, we’re not complaining!
What really impresses us about this piece, however, is what’s inside.
The OB2024 automatic movement is comprised of 274 components and has been finely finished with all steel parts either being hand beveled or hand polished. The automatic winding rotor is crafted from platinum for maximum winding efficiency and pivots on oil-free low-friction ceramic bearings. Acknowledging that this is a sports watch the rotor is protected by a central anti-shock system comprising four spring arms and 12 jewels.
The balance is a made from titanium (high strength/lightness ratio) and platinum (high mass). Four titanium arms support four titanium inertia blocks shaped like streamlined torpedoes to create a class leading inertia/mass ratio. A free-sprung balance spring with the De Bethune flat terminal curve ensures superb isochronism, high shock resistance and reduced movement height. Double self-adjusting mainspring barrels supporting their springs between six ruby friction-reducing bars ensure the impressive 6 day power reserve is maintained.
Finished off on an alligator leather strap with tang buckle the DB 25 is available in either red gold or white gold and will cost you somewhere between $45,000 – $50,000.
The Final Word
The DB 25 is yet another breathtaking example of why De Bethune deserves, nay, demands your attention. The watch-maker’s attention to detail and adherence to the traditional principals of watch-making is evident in every piece and yet at the same time there is a constant focus on moving forward and innovating.
This perfect blend has led to the creation of some of the most superb timepieces you will ever see. So do yourself a favor and have a closer look: www.debethune.ch or jump on their brand new Facebook Page.
The Corum Admiral’s Cup Deep Hull 48 – Bold Is Beautiful
As an industry observer it is always enjoyable to see a once strong brand surge back on the scene after a period of relative inactivity. Corum is such a brand, seeming almost dormant for a while and then out of nowhere surprising us (quite pleasantly we might say) in 2009, demanding our attention with the launch of their second in-house movement and a number of novelties, including variations of the very unique Ti-Bridge series.
In 2010 the brand has continued to build on this momentum introducing two new Golden Bridge pieces as well as a special edition deep sea diving watch, the Admiral’s Cup Deep Hull 48, which we have to say is absolutely superb.
Still, those familiar with the brand know to expect nothing less.
A Brief History
For those of you not so well acquainted with Corum, it’s important to know a little of their history to truly appreciate the brand’s most admired characteristics. Founded in 1955 in the spiritual home of watch-making, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Corum was created by a young and talented watch-maker by the name of Rene Bannwart. After having worked for several other prestigious brands he decided it was time for him to establish his own identity as a watch-maker. To do this he enlisted the help of his uncle, Gaston Ries and together the two set about building a brand that was unlike any other.
The goal was simple, Corum wanted to be positioned at the forefront of Swiss watch-making, pioneering new concepts in design and expression. Perhaps the burning ambition the two men shared is best illustrated by the brand’s emblem, a key pointing skywards. Not only is this indicative of the brand’s pioneering and innovative spirit, but also their desire to conquer new territories and quite simply put, become the masters of time.
Yet, it wasn’t until 1966 when Jean-Rene Bannwart, Rene’s son, joined the company that the brand’s identity as we know it today was truly established. He is credited with creating the models which were to become Corum’s trademark, especially the topic of today’s post and arguably Corum’s most recognised series, the Admiral Cup.
Many years later highly successful entrepreneur and philanthropist Severin Wunderman purchased the Corum brand and when questioned about his plans for the future, he replied;
“Making watches that meet the criteria of savoir faire and aesthetics with the daring approach that has always characterized Corum.”
And certainly it would seem that he has achieved that goal. Today Corum has grown from small private label watch factory into an internationally acclaimed brand, infamous for its unique sense of style.
Which brings us to the focus of this article.
The Admiral’s Cup Deep Hull 48
2010 marks the 50th anniversary of the birth of Corum’s yacht-inspired Admiral’s Cup series and so to celebrate this special occasion the brand unveiled a special limited edition model designed for the requirements of deep-sea diving. Aptly named the Deep Hull 48, this new piece will be produced in a limited series of two versions – one in titanium, and the other in black PVD titanium.
Without a doubt the new Deep Hull is a striking watch, not least of all thanks to its imposing 48mm diameter. Yet its bold style is also one of its most attractive qualities. This is distinctly a Corum timepiece, the trademark masculinity of the Admiral Cup design is unmistakable and it somehow manages the neat feat of being unique without appearing too unusual or over the top.
From a practical point of the view the Deep Hull embodies everything one expects from a top quality dive watch. Functionality takes centre stage and has not been compromised in any way for the sake of aesthetics. The clean, uncluttered dial is easy to read and has received more than ample luminescent treatment ensuring it remains highly visible under water.
And trust us you’re going to need all the luminosity you can get where you’re going.
The Deep Hull is rated to an impressive 1,000m of water resistance (we’re told it gets pretty dark down there) and as you would expect is equipped with a fully functioning automatic helium escape valve (what is this?) and unidirectional rotating elapsed time bezel.
Powering this mighty beast is a self-winding mechanical movement, the Corum CO947, which has obtained COSC certification and is therefore officially a chronometer. (Not sure what that means? Read all about it here.) The mechanism allows rapid adjustments to the day and date indications via the crown, and it also features a hacking seconds function to enable exact setting with a time signal. Power reserve of the barrel is 42 hours.
Available in a limited production of 500 pieces in titanium and just 155 examples in black PVD-finished titanium, all models are fitted with a 24mm rubber strap bearing the Corum signature and a wide titanium prong buckle.
The Final Word
We absolutely love this piece for what it is; bold, unforgiving and resolutely masculine. The Deep Hull 48 represents all the exceptional qualities Corum has come to be so well known for and we can say with confidence that this is truly a timepiece that has been designed to be worn, not just admired. Instantly recognizable thanks to its unique style and trademark design the Deep Hull 48 is a not so subtle reminder of what this great brand is truly capable of.
We’ve certainly been converted!
On The Wrist Review: The Tyndall By Xetum
A few months ago we told you about a new and highly original brand called Xetum. Based in the United States the young company introduced their first collection of timepieces late last year. Recently we were lucky enough to get our hands on one of their cool new timepieces known as the Tyndall and let’s just say we were pretty impressed.
A Unique Style
Although all the watches are made in Switzerland they are designed in San Francisco where the company is headquartered. This means that the sources of inspiration and influence are completely different from say those of a European based designer, and it shows.
Decidedly minimalist the Tyndall’s key strength lays in its simplicity. The dial is attractive and easy to read, and although it is very basic the effective use of contrasting colors means that it still draws attention. From our experience on the wrist this funky looking piece drew a number of compliments from envious admirers not to mention stares of disbelief when they heard the price (just US$1,395).
The stylish stainless steel case is perfectly sized at 40mm making it suitable to wear as a dress watch or for more casual occasions. The uncluttered dial also makes it appear slightly larger than it is and means the wearer can read the time with just a quick glance at their wrist, although given its eye-catching appearance you may find it harder than you think to drag your eyes away.
On the reverse side of the watch the exhibition case back reveals the timepiece’s beating heart, a Swiss ETA 2895-2 movement. Whilst by no means a complicated or specialized movement, it is accurate and reliable and for this price that’s more than you can ask for.
Whilst looking at the back side of the Tyndall you’ll also notice that it has been designed without lugs and so the naturally tanned leather strap attaches directly to the case, ensuring a snug fit on the wrist. As an extra finishing touch the underside of the leather strap features a unique, and eco-friendly, Italian cork lining and the clasp is a push-button butterfly deployment that is signed with the Xetum logo.
The Final Word
Xetum have come out with a very solid offering for their first collection delivering a timepiece that is both stylish and well made, not to mention well-priced. The design is simple but at the same time distinctive and the quality of the piece is evident from the moment you take it out the box.
Overall we were very impressed and certainly recommend the Tyndall if you’re looking for a timepiece that is reasonably priced and highly versatile.
For more information check out www.xetum.com
The Marvin M112 Collection: Celebrating A Return To Simpler Times
In a crowded market it is often the brands that do things a little differently, no matter how subtle, that tend to stand out. Marvin Watches is one such brand which has really captured our attention over the last few months. By no means a recent entrant into the industry (the company was founded in 1850), new life has been breathed into the brand thanks to its unwavering commitment to producing high-quality timepieces at affordable prices.
To illustrate we’d like to draw your attention to the M112.
A Return To Core Values
Even the most novice of industry observers would have gleaned from this year’s major watch fairs (SIHH and Basel World) that after a period of unprecedented excess we are starting to see a return to more traditional, classical watch-making.
Although some shall we say painful reminders still persist sophisticated elegance and refinement are now the buzz words of the watch industry. Marvin has captured this sentiment perfectly with their new(ish) M112 collection, a celebration of classic style and old school values.
With a decidedly vintage feel, the M112 is a throwback to another time where the pace of life was far less frantic and timepieces were designed to last a lifetime. This is not a piece that will fall prey to the constantly changing trends of modern-day fashion and yet at the same time it is versatile enough to be worn in any setting with any outfit.
At 44mm the stainless steel case is slightly on the large side for a classic dress watch but its traditional design means that it doesn’t wear big. Thanks to its slim profile and uncomplicated dial the M112 collection sits comfortably on the wrist, the subtle simplicity drawing admiring glances from observers without overpowering them.
The M112 is also available in a PVD-coated rose gold case
Value For Money
The only manual-wind piece in the entire Marvin collection, the M112 is powered by an ETA 2801 movement with a respectable 42 hour power reserve, visible through the sapphire exhibition case back. Available with either a silver or black sunray dial it is the little touches that really make this piece special; the subtle detail of the red square at the outer edge of the index at 8 ’o clock; the notched crown, and the black leather strap that is red on the inside.
Without a doubt though, the most exceptional feature of this stunning collection is the price. At just $850 for the base model, the M112 represents excellent value for money especially when you consider that all pieces come with a very impressive two-year guarantee. For those looking for something extra special you can also opt to go with a PVD-coated rose gold case for $950.
The Final Word
The M112 collection represents a great entry piece for aspiring watch enthusiasts or for those simply looking for a top quality timepiece they can wear for all occasions. The classic design and attention to detail will ensure that this is a timepiece that is always in fashion and more importantly, is always drawing compliments from admirers.
Just don’t tell them how much you paid for it, they’d never believe you anyway!
If you’d like to know more about this great brand why not check out their official website at www.marvinwatches.com or join the discussion on their regularly updated Facebook page.
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