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Bell & Ross Steps Back In Time With New Vintage Collection
At this year’s Baselworld fair the resurgence of vintage styles and return to classic values was more evident than ever, nowhere more so than in the new collection from Bell & Ross. Officially unveiled at the show, the stunning new Vintage collection from B&R will eventually replace the original Vintage (and Geneva) lines. These funky looking new pieces strive to replicate the unique look of professional timepieces of four to six decades ago whilst at the same time infusing them with instantly recognizable modern Bell & Ross traits.
Brand New Vintage
Prior to the advent of the BR Instruments, Bell & Ross watches were more or less split into two categories: Vintage and Professional. While many people were not aware of the French brand before the conspicuous square BR-01 came to be, their original creations attracted a strong following thanks to their high quality and clean designs and served as a base for Bell & Ross’ important expansion into the BR niche.
The new Bell & Ross BR Vintage watches offer a design that looks authentically like a military watch manufactured between the forties and sixties. The difference is in the quality of the materials and the manufacturing. The domed crystal is a very subtle, yet striking example of a quality upgrade. Before the Eighties, synthetic sapphire was not used in watchmaking. Acrylic plastic was used instead, as it is very easy to work with and does not shatter like glass.
Because of its structural weakness, the acrylic crystals were often domed or raised in order to protect the watch from impact, but were prone to crack in the process. Scratching a plastic crystal is also very easy to do. Today sapphire has become the standard for luxury watches and Bell & Ross devised a way to sculpt the extremely hard corundum (the mineral name for sapphire) into the elevated shapes of the past. The sapphire crystal’s irregular form is both esthetically pleasing and structurally strong thanks to its thickness and shape.
Classic Style
Under the nostalgic, domed crystal lies a dial that is a key element in defining the BR Vintage models as Bell & Ross watches. A side-by-side comparison between the BR V123 Heritage and BR-03 92 Heritage (seen at the end of the video posted below) shows this very clearly.
The new Bell & Ross collection presented to SwissTV at Basel World 2010
The beige numeral and index hour markers and bold hands are a direct product of the company’s design philosophy – the same philosophy that links every Bell & Ross watch to the clean, highly legible design of professional instruments.
Bell & Ross design principles are also captured on the case. The flat, strong bezel and black “carbon finish” mirror those on the square BR timepieces. The strap that was conceived for the Vintage BR is thicker and is punched with rectangular holes giving the new models an even more distinct character.
The movements, while very important, don’t bring much new to the table. The BR Vintage models are equipped with the same Swiss, automatic movements that are already in use in other Bell & Ross watches. As before, “123″ will identify an automatic three-hand configuration with small seconds and date window at six o’clock, and “126″ denominates an self-winding chronograph with date at four thirty.
The Bell & Ross BR Vintage collections draw inspiration from professional watches of the past, the distinct design principles of the manufacturer, modern advances in watchmaking, and the original Bell & Ross Vintage collections that helped elevate the company to the level of a world class brand in the first place.
The Final Word
The BR Vintage 123 and 126 Heritage shown in the video on www.bellross.com are the flagship pieces for the new collections. They capture the vintage style especially well thanks to beige hands and markers. For years companies have been reviving styles of the past. Fender makes “vintaged” Relic Guitars, the Dodge Charger and Chevy Camaro have been remodelled to reflect their origins in more detail.
Whether it be by reissuing vintage models or imitating the effects of time with the use of beige markers and hands to emulate the discoloring of white tritium over time, the watch industry itself has taken notice: the products that so many of the world’s affluent consumers enjoyed their youth with are making their way back.
Marco is a specialist of Bell & Ross watches at Matt Baily
5 Great Comments. Leave one too. | Filed under BaselWorld 2010, New This Week, Watch Reviews
Classic And Classy – The New Longines Column-Wheel Chronograph
We tend not to cover mainstream brands too often here on The Watch Lounge. It’s not that we don’t like them, indeed we admire many of their exceptional pieces, it’s just that we feel there are already a number of great sites out there that do a more than a sufficient job of covering these brands, like Perpetuelle, FratelloWatches and Ablogtoread. However, when we saw this stunning, stylish new piece from Longines we simply could not help ourselves. So enjoy!
Classic Style
Scheduled to be officially launched as part of Longine’s new collection at Basel World this year, the new Column-Wheel Chronograph exhibits all the characteristics an instant classic should. Subtle and refined in its style the dial looks superb and is clear and uncluttered, just as a chronograph should be. Presented in muted tones that provide just the right level of contrast, this new piece is an absolute pleasure to behold.
The polished stainless steel case is perfectly sized at 39mm, and also is available in rose gold. The brown alligator strap with buckle ensures this piece is both elegant and versatile. This is a watch that can be worn in the boardroom, on your yacht or even on the golf course, the choice is yours.
However, it’s not just timeless looks that this piece has going for it.
Technically Astute
At its heart beats the very exclusive L688.2 column-wheel chronograph movement launched in 2009. Mandated and financed by Longines, ETA developed this exclusive new automatic column-wheel movement for a wrist chronograph, designed to provide an exceptional degree of user comfort without comprising on accuracy or reliability.
For those of you who are after something a little sportier, there is also the Column-Wheel Sports Chronograph (pictured above) presented in a slightly larger 41mm stainless steel case with a black or grey ceramic bezel. Powered by the same movement, the Sports version is offered on your choice of rubber or steel bands.
No word on pricing as yet but expect it to be between $2,000 – $4,000.
The Final Word
Although Longines gives you two choices here the clear winner in our eyes is the classic Column-Wheel Chronograph. It is an exceptionally well-made timepiece and its distinguished yet refined style will ensure it’s never out of place on your wrist, regardless of the occasion. Plus it has the technical credentials to back up its classic good looks.
This is definitely one for the collection.
On-The-Wrist Review: Longio SG3824A Flying Tourbillon
© The Watch Lounge
Recently there’s been a fair bit of discussion about the real value of a tourbillon complication here on The Watch Lounge and it was very positive to see reader’s voicing their opinions and getting involved in the discussion. What you may not realise was that the original catalyst for that article was a new timepiece we were lucky enough to get our hands on from Hong Kong based manufacturer Longio Watch Company. What makes this piece special is that not only is it fitted with a Chinese-made Seagull movement with flying tourbillon complication, but the actual case, dial, and so forth have all been made in-house. And to be honest, they haven’t done too bad a job.
On-The-Wrist
It’s no secret that China has been making watches, especially copies of high-end brands, for quite some time now. However, what is starting to happen is that these companies which traditionally manufactured components for European brands are starting to enter the luxury watch market themselves, with their own original branded products.
© The Watch Lounge
Longio is one such company, offering timepieces with a high-end complications such as tourbillons at far more affordable prices than any European brand has ever been able (or willing) to offer. The piece we received for review is identified simply as Ref SG3824A and features a manual-wind movement with Flying Tourbillon complication with Moonphase and Date.
Overall, on first impressions we have to say this is a pretty nice looking timepiece. The case is very well made and has a nice, solid feel to it and similarly the rubber strap is of good quality and very comfortable (an area many cheaper brands often cut corners.) The watch sits well on the wrist and the crown feels firm and secure when winding the piece. A sapphire exhibition case back gives a rather disappointing view of the movement which hasn’t really been decorated at all and is mostly hidden.
© The Watch Lounge
Unfortunately the dial, however, is no where near as impressive as the case it is housed in. Described by the brand as a “black cut-out dial with black indices” it looks exactly that, a few pieces of plastic which have been cut into shape and then layered over the top of each other.
This is a major sticking point in my book as you spend most of your time looking at the dial and the poor finish really cheapens the overall feel of the watch, which isn’t necessarily a fair representation of the quality. Similarly, both the hour and minute hands and moon-phase complication lack the polished-finish you would get in a European made watch which again is quite disappointing. Add to that the completely ineffective pushers located at 2 and 4 o’clock for the date and moonphase respectively, which despite several futile attempts, I could not get to function in any noticeable way and you soon see there are a few areas for improvement on this particular piece.
© The Watch Lounge
Obviously though the key selling point of this piece is the flying tourbillon complication, and it is undeniably eye-catching (if not lacking somewhat in accuracy, rated at +30/-30 per day.) As it rotates through its 60-second arc you eye can’t help but be drawn to its graceful trajectory, time and time again, and in my opinion this really saves the piece. The tourbillon itself is well-made and well-finished and it is possible to observe it in action from both the front and rear of the case.
Certainly this is a brand that is capable of making a good quality timepiece, there just not quite there yet.
Regardless, brands like Longio still have a veritable up-hill battle on their hands when it comes to overcoming all the damage done to China’s reputation as a result of years of producing cheap, unreliable goods and the country’s supposed inability to be creative. Harder still will be the job of convincing their own countrymen, who are presently enamoured with European luxury brands, that their product is worthy of patronage.
© The Watch Lounge
The Final Word
Undeniably Chinese manufacturers have continued to improve and certainly produced some top quality “homage” pieces over the last few years, however, these were priced at a much lower point in the market. A point, which some would argue, consumers felt comfortable paying. This new breed of luxury brands though is looking to raise the bar again. The timepiece we have here for review today for example will run you closer to $3k – $4k as opposed to the few hundred you would’ve have paid for the homage pieces.
Still, there will be those out there who simply appreciate and admire the tourbillon complication even though they (like most of us) could never hope to own one from one of the high-end Swiss watch manufactures and so these new pieces from Chinese brands like Longio could really provide a realistic alternative. They are fairly well-priced for what they are although you will get zero brand recognition, which may be a good thing if you’re not too proud about wearing a Chinese made timepiece.
Hublot Big Bang Tutti Frutti – Who Said Classy Can’t Be Colorful?
As you are all no doubt aware Basel World will be upon us in a matter of weeks, with the world’s best watch and jewellery brands coming together in Switzerland to unveil their latest creations. We’ve covered a few of the ones that have really caught our fancy so far and will continue to do so in the lead up to the show. To date though, the focus has predominantly been on men’s watches and so we thought it was high time we brought you a ladies’ watch, and what a striking piece it is! Gentleman, you would be well advised not to let your wives or girlfriends read this.
You have been warned.
Colorful and Bold
Scheduled to be presented at Basel World this year, the new Big Bang Steel Tutti Frutti from Swiss watch maker Hublot is nothing short of stunning. Bold and colorful without being overwhelming, this latest piece exudes an exotic sense of style and power. At the same time the color-scheme is resolutely feminine, lending a touch of softness to this piece not always seen in oversized ladies’ models.
Presented on a pink alligator strap, the case is made of stainless steel with satin-finished endpieces. The beautifully simplistic fine mother of pearl dial is surrounded by 48 baguette-cut pink sapphires, providing the perfect blend of elegance and attitude and ensuring that this is a timepiece that will grab attention.
As we touched on before it is slightly large for a ladies piece at 41mm but there has been a growing trend toward women wearing 40 – 42mm men’s watches over the last year or two and we think given its bold design it is actually perfectly sized.
Powered by a mechanical automatic winding Hublot Calibre HUB4300 movement with chronograph function, this piece is not only attractive but also sophisticated and practical. Highly desirable qualities in any context!
The Final Word
Certainly this new piece from uber popular watch maker Hublot is not for everyone tastes and we daresay that it would take a certain kind of individual to pull it off. However, that’s exactly who its been designed for; strong, confident women who are looking for a distinctive way to express their own sense of style.
Unlike other ladies’ pieces we’ve seen in the past, the Big Bang Tutti Frutti combines a sense of sportiness and attitude with a touch of elegance, whilst all the time remaining absolutely feminine.
We love it! The question is, do you?
Ulysse Nardin El Toro. Technically Advanced? Yes. Attractive? Not Even Close!
Ulysse Nardin’s high-tech perpetual calendar complication is legendary in watch making circles around the world and has featured in many of their timepieces. This latest model, to be formally announced at Basel World this year, comes equipped with a dual time function and in-house developed and manufactured self-winding movement. Yes, the El Toro seems to have it all when it comes to technical competence, however, sadly it leaves a lot to be desired in the aesthetics department.
Poor Design but…
Described by Ulysse Nardin as “a powerful timepiece for everyday use”, it is certainly undeniable that the El Toro is fully of useful functions. These include; a perpetual calendar which is adjustable via just the one crown; 2nd time zone indication on the main dial with a patented quick setting mechanism; permanent home time indicated by 3rd hand and of course the big date in a double window at 3 o’clock.
Whilst on the one hand this information may be considered useful for day to day wear, it also has the unfortunate side effect of making the dial appear very cluttered. There are hands, and numbers and windows everywhere! Add to that a poor choice of color schemes and you have yourself what is really quite an unattractive piece.
Certainly this is not the worst looking piece we’ve seen but it is surprising to see something like this coming from Ulysse Nardin, a brand that typically produces more refined pieces which still incorporate strong technical credentials.
Perhaps the brand is trying a little too hard to stand out?
…Strong Technical Qualifications
Aesthetics aside, however, it is difficult to fault this piece’s mechanical aptitude. The COSC certified movement incorporates the only perpetual calendar that is capable of adjusting forwards and backward in seconds using the quick corrector position of the single crown. As an added feature the date, the day, the month and the year change instantly forward or backward when the hour hand is moved to a new local time which crosses the dateline.
What’s even more cool is that the hour hand can be adjusted instantly to the new local time by using the pushers located at 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock respectively. This means you don’t even need to take the watch of your wrist when you enter a new time zone!
The 43mm case is available in a choice of either 18 ct red gold or platinum, with a ceramic bezel and is presented on your choice of a rubber strap with titanium/ceramic deployant clasp or a leather strap with folding buckle.
The Final Word
Technically this piece is exceptional. It incorporates a number of useful indications, including Ulysse Nardin’s highly regarded perpetual calendar complication not to the mention the ability to change the 2nd timezone with ease. Unfortunately, however, it has not come together very well in the design department and to be honest really leaves a lot to be desired from a watch that has been created to wear everyday.
Yes, the indications are useful, but they would be even more useful if you could bear looking at the dial long enough to decipher them.
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