Archive for the ‘Watch Reviews’ Category:
Grieb & Benzinger Platinum – Taking Exclusivity To A New Level
So, you’re a sophisticated consumer with high disposable income and elegantly refined taste. You’re looking for something truly exquisite and unique, a one-off piece showcasing exceptional attention to detail and breathtaking craftsmanship. Well, perhaps it’s time your search got serious. We present to you the absolutely superb Minute Repeater 2 from super exclusive master watchmakers Grieb & Benzinger Platinum.
A Sense of History
Before we go into detail about this gorgeous one-off piece, however, it’s important you know the story behind this rather remarkable watchmaker. The ethos of Grieb & Benzinger is to craft unique wristwatches based on exceptional historic movements.
Their workshop is full of mostly historic special machinery and could easily double as an industrial museum paying ode to the pioneering spirit of Abraham-Louis Breguet and the like. It is here in this very special space that original movements first crafted by the hands of some of the greatest old masters of horology, such as Patek Philippe, are lovingly restored and modified with painstaking precision.
The company typically only uses movements that have been built between 1880 and 1920 and feature high-end complications, such as minute repeaters. Staying true to the original masters, Grieb & Benzinger use the traditional machinery and hand-crafting techniques from the old days to create their unique style timepieces. In this way classic old watches are thus turned into new and exclusive fine platinum masterpieces, incorporating increasingly rare techniques of craftsmanship for the finishing of the movements such as skeletonizing, engraving and guilloche all by hand.
We think you will agree that the end results are simply breathtaking.
The Minute Repeater 2
This latest one-off piece is based on an original movement by Patek Philippe, an extra special Minute Repeater exclusively built for the famous New York based jeweler TIFFANY’s around 1887. Professionally modified into a Grieb & Benzinger style regulator – the movement has been restored, guilloché, hand-engraved and coated with blue platinum in preparation for being turned into a new, exclusive timepiece.
A movement this unique deserves to be housed in an equally as special and customized case and Grieb & Benzinger have not cut any corners. The 49mm case is made of a 130g of solid platinum as is the crown with steel application. The dial is hand-skeletonized and hand-guilloched with original Breguet Frost Finish, blued steel hands and polished and flame blued screws.
The attention to detail is evident in every aspect of this timepiece. The bridges and cocks have been guilloched, the steel striking hammers with 2 spiral gongs have been polished and all striking parts, levers and springs have been honed and beveled.
This is truly a masterpiece.
The Final Word
When it comes to exclusive, incredibly high-end, unicum timepieces the awe-inspiring creations of Grieb & Benzinger Platinum are undeniably up there. This newest offering, the Minuter Repeater 2, will give one incredibly lucky fine timepiece connoisseur the opportunity to add a truly outstanding, never to be repeated piece to their collection.
Be quick though, as this is the only one the world will ever see!
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New Ball Watch Engineer Hydrocarbon – Tool Watches As They Should Be
If you’re looking for a timepiece that is tough and hard-wearing yet at the same time still refined enough for the boardroom and reasonably priced, perhaps its time you consider the Engineer Hydrocarbon collection from American-owned Swiss watchmaker Ball Watch Co. Given a complete makeover ahead of its up-and-coming debut at Basel World this year, the new look collection promises a subtle blend of functionality and form, with neither suffering for the benefit of the other.
The Company
Over the last century, Ball has carved out a well-respected reputation for making robust and reliable tool watches. These timepieces have been designed to be worn in any and all conditions, whilst still maintaining the highest standards of accuracy and legibility possible. According to the brand the Engineer Hydrocarbon collection is the ultimate personification of this identity, representing the application of all their technological expertise, knowledge of materials and the readability standards inherited from the brand’s founder, Webster C. Ball who established the company back in 1891.
The Engineer Hydrocarbon Collection
Several components in the new collection have been modified and improved, including the rotating bezel. As one would expect it retains its unidirectional function with its notch calibrated at 30 seconds, however, it has been made slightly wider and flatter making it much easier to manipulate even when wearing gloves. Ensuring easy reading, even at night, the Hydrocarbon bezel is equipped with a H3 marker inserted into a protective container at 12 o’clock. Further, the graduation from 0 to 14, along with the digits 15, 30 and 45 all have very powerful luminescent paint emitting a blue glow.
The dial is simple and uncluttered, ensuring the wearer only has access to the information that is actually required in a format that is very easy to read. Just from looking at the clean lines and intelligent use of contrasting colors it is obvious that the high legibility is almost guaranteed in any situation. Be it under water or even in outer-space! Brand ambassador Brian Binnie, a former US Navy pilot and astronaut, certainly seems to think so. It was this watch that he chose to strap to his wrist on a recent ‘space-walk’.
However, legibility is nothing without accuracy. So to make sure that the time you are reading with ease is always correct, these timepieces are powered by a chronometer-certified ETA 2836 movement, with day and date calendar, delivering extreme precision.
Keeping It In Place
Sometimes the importance of a top-quality bracelet and clasp can be overlooked in favor of case design and functionality. However, for a watch that has been created to go anywhere you go, keeping it attached firmly to your wrist is of the utmost importance.
In recognition of this, the innovative folks over at Ball have developed their very own, patented triple folding clasp and extension. To improve the strength and durability of this clasp, it is machined from a single block of 316L stainless steel. Ensuring optimum comfort and fit, the clasp’s balance is perfect and the unfolding components are spread evenly under their cover; and a 22-millimeter extension system has been added on both sides of the bracelet so that the watch can be worn over sports gear. Opening and closing operations can be performed single handed. The clasp operates with a robust locking mechanism enabling it to withstand extreme traction forces when in the closed position.
No word on pricing yet but expect it to be well under US$10,000.
The Final Word
Yet another well-designed, highly functional timepiece from American owned Ball Watches. The company’s rich history in the rail industry has certainly placed them well in terms of making pieces that are reliable, accurate and above all highly legible. This is a watch that will provide a lifetime of loyal service without breaking the bank, whilst still being versatile enough to be worn for pretty much all occasions.
Ball make tool watches as they should be, and we think that’s a good thing.
Technical Specifications
Model Number: DM2036-SCAJ-BK
Movement: Automatic ETA 2836-2, COSC certified chronometer
Functions: Hours, minutes, sweep seconds, day and date
29 micro gas tubes on hour, minute, second hands
and dial for night reading capability
Case: Stainless steel case with luminous unidirectional rotating bezel
Diameter 41.5 mm, Height 16.1 mm
4mm anti-refl ective sapphire crystal
Patented crown protection system
Water-resistant to 333 m
Antimagnetic to 12,000 A/m
Shock-resistant – withstands 7,500 Gs shock test
Band: Tapered stainless steel bracelet, with patented deployant buckle
& extension system
The Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture
When considering the relationship between luxury and value, points of view tend to disagree. This is because these two concepts are somewhat contradictory. In light of Tom Mulraney’s article about the real value of tourbillon watches, I find it suiting to take a closer look at a watch that claims to offer both luxury and value. It will also be very interesting to hear the insightful opinion of The Watch Lounge readers in regards to this watch, which is the Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture.
Alpina is very dedicated to providing the best possible value for the high quality and appeal of luxury products. Because of this, I believe that this underestimated, modern company still has a lot of growth ahead of it. Tourbillon timepieces, while very visible in the watch media, are still quite rare in terms of units produced. Most models presented by companies other then the established giants, are often limited to tiny lots.
In the case of the Extreme Tourbillon, for instance, only 18 of each variation will be produced. The precision required to manufacture the numerous components of the tourbillon cage is the source of both the rarity and prestige associated with this complication. A closer look at Alpina’s AL-980 calibre Tourbillon movement will put these components in evidence.
The AL-980 calibre is comprised of 188 parts. Its purpose is to offer accuracy, impressive Swiss manufacturing, and – of course – the complex tourbillon mechanism at a price lower then the competition’s. This proprietary mechanism is an extensively modified version of Alpina’s original manufacture calibre, the AL 950. It retains the AL-950′s automatic winding mechanics and the regulator hour configuration.
One of the main aspects of the new AL-980, is that is equipped with a silicium escapement wheel and lever. The advantages of this material are now well known by many watch enthusiasts. Its light weight creates less friction than traditional substances and allows for a more precise measurement of time. The viscosity of the escapement also allows it to run properly without lubrication, virtually eliminating the need for regular servicing. The tourbillon cage itself is made of 80 parts showing how intricate even a basic version of this complication can be.
The tourbillon is an impressive complication. It is easy to see why watches that are equipped with it, often exhibit it through the dial. This is so on the Extreme Tourbillon Regulator, who’s dial is “skeletonized” to showcase the mesmerizing combination of rotation and oscillation. The dial’s low contrast further highlights the individually numbered “tourb.” The markings on the multilevel dial are black and the applied steel hour markers and hands are darkened with the PVD process. The 48mm case is sporty and modern. It offers a relatively low profile and curved lugs, which are joined to a soft rubber strap for a comfortable fit. The black bezel is made of ceramic while the black case is made of titanium and coated with diamond like carbon (DLC). All Extreme Tourbillon regulators offer a peek at the ingenious movement via see-through, exhibition backs.
The Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator represents a new category of tourbillon watches. These timepieces offer all the quality and precision expected of Swiss manufacturing with a price that reflects their actual value without the Tourbillon Club surcharge. The Extreme Tourbillon offers the simplest and most robust form of the “whirlwind” mechanism and packages it in a modern, sporty case.
Only 18 copies of each of the two versions will be manufactured reflecting the naturally limiting precision and time required to build them. With a price tag that hovers around the $50,000 mark, the AL-980BC5AE9 and AL-980BCT5AE9 Extreme Tourbillon Regulators represent the rare balance between luxury and value.
Have Alpina got it right? Tell us what you think below!
Marco is a specialist of Alpina watches at Matt Baily.
Having The Best Of Both Worlds – Reconvilier Hercules Golf Master
Golf enthusiasts take note – now that Tag Heuer’s Golf watch has fallen into disrepute (thanks to the meteoric demise of a certain superstar’s reputation), we have a new and improved option for you that we think is far more stylish. And useful! You see not only will this new piece from Swiss watch maker Reconvilier inform you of the time with one look at its simplistically attractive dial, it will also tell you the distance to the front edge or center of the green.
All you have to do is flip it over!
How Does It Work?
The technology used in the Hercules Golf Master is not really that new and is really quite simple, relatively speaking. A base station that is kept in your bag communicates with this stylish timepiece, allowing it to obtain golf course data before the start of the game. Once you’re on the course, the data is relayed automatically from this base station to the watch through the magic of GPS and calculates your position. It then displays the distance from the green in meters or yards.
As you can see in the above image the digital readout also shows the regular time as well as distance to the green, so you don’t need to be constantly flipping the dial over to see what time it is. However, when you finish the game and its time to show off down at the Club lounge, the “Rotax” mechanism allows the watch face to be removed and flipped 180° to showcase what is a very good-looking analogue dial.
Although the practice of using pocket-sized rangfinders and so forth has been going on for some time now, to date we have not seen this technology combined into such a classic looking and at the same time, functional, piece.
Being true Swiss watch makers though, Reconvilier hasn’t overlooked the finer details required in a good quality timepiece. The Hercules Golf Master is powered by an automatic ETA 2892A movement which has been certified by the COSC as a chronometer and is available in either a stainless steel or titanium 45mm case. There a three dial colors to choose from, white, black or grey, and the analogue display shows hours, minutes, seconds and the date.
The watch is finished off on a black or white rubber strap, with either a steel or titanium folding clasp (depending on the type of case material you choose.)
Reconvilier will be presenting this watch at Basel World this year and so there is availability on pricing at this stage. We think it would probably be reasonable to expect somewhere between $2,500 – $5,000.
The Final Word
This really promises to be an excellent watch that delivers even doses of functionality and classic style. Many other practical watches like this incorporate the digital display and the analogue display into the one dial (like the Tissot Touch Series for example), which is fine when you’re out diving or on the green but can really detract from a piece’s overall appeal when it comes time to come in for champagne and canapés. The Hercules Golf Master overcomes this issue beautifully offering the wearer the best of both worlds without the need to compromise.
It’s a shame Tiger Woods didn’t have one of these, surely it would have satisfied his insatiable appetite for having it all!
The Tyndall Watch From Newcomer Xetum – Less Is More
Late last year a new watch brand was launched, pioneered by founder and head designer Jeff Kuo. Simply called Xetum, this funky new brand offers a novel take on minimalist watch design without compromising on functionality or quality. Each piece is well thought out and well put together, and just as importantly, well priced. Today, we thought we’d take a closer look at a particular model that caught our fancy, the brand new Xetum Tyndall.
A Brief Background
Before we start talking about the Tyndall in earnest, it is probably worthwhile giving you a brief background on this newcomer. Based in the U.S. one of the things that makes Xetum’s pieces unique (and that first caught our attention) is that they are all designed in, and therefore influenced by, their home city of San Francisco. Yet, in recognition of their strong desire to only produce top quality watches all pieces are manufactured and put together in Switzerland.
This may seem like a relatively minor point but in a crowded market this can really make a difference and help a particular brand out. The reason for this is that because Jeff Kuo is from San Francisco his ideas about design, form and functionality have been influenced by a whole different set of factors, as opposed to say a designer based in Switzerland. Often it is said that someone looking from the outside in can bring a fresh perspective and that is what’s happened here.
It’s not that one is better than the other, it’s just simply a different point of view and that’s what makes it so appealing. That and the fact the watches look great!
Keeping It Simple
One of the first things you notice when you look at either of Xetum’s initial two models is how simple and easy they are to read. For example the Tyndall features a 24-hour time display as well as a subsidiary seconds dial and a date function yet somehow the dial avoids appearing crowded or confusing. The choice of font and layout ensure that reading the time is a breeze and will not require you to squint at your wrist for several seconds trying to figure out the time, an issue further addressed by the anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal.
The design is simple and attractive and works for pretty much any occasion, be it a black tie dinner, a day at the office or on the golf course with friends. A good-looking watch without being too bold, the Tyndall is perfectly sized at 40mm, almost pre-empting the subtle shift we are now seeing away from oversized watches. The large ornate crown, designed with reference to the brand’s hexagonal logo, helps form the signature look of the piece whilst at the same time retaining the subtle appeal.
Nothing on this watch is overdone, everything is just as it should be.
Although not immediately obvious in the pictures the case is actually more of an oval shape, as opposed to the traditional round shape. Yet another subtle point of differentiation. In addition, the case has been designed without lugs and thus the strap attaches directly, further streamlining the design.
Powering the Tyndall is a nicely decorated Swiss ETA 2895-2 movement which is visible through the exhibition case back. And for the finishing touch the Tyndall is fitted with a naturally tanned leather strap that features a unique, and eco-friendly, Italian cork lining. The clasp is a push-button butterfly deployment that is signed with the Xetum logo.
Keeping all of the above in mind, the Tyndall represents excellent value at US$1,395 and is available to buy direct from Xetum.
The Final Word
As I’ve said before on here countless times, I love finding new watch brands that aren’t afraid to do something a little different but without compromising on quality. Xetum is an excellent example of such a brand and it will be very exciting to see what they come up with next. Well presented and sensibly priced it’s hard to think of a reason really why you shouldn’t add one of these to your collection.
If you would like more information check out Xetum’s official website.
And as a sneak peek, we will be speaking with Xetum founder and head designer Jeff Kuo in the not too distant future, so if you have any questions in particular you would like us to ask Jeff please write them in the comments section below or send us an email!
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Latest Comments
- Nick Orloff: Beautiful piece, regrettably a little (?) out of my price range. I’d love to...
- Olivier Muller: Thanks, BMW
Stay tuned ! - Jack: Looks like a really nice watch for the price!