Archive for the ‘Watch Reviews’ Category:
Welcome Komrade! The Russian Made Strela Chronograph
You may not know it yet but Russian watches are currently experiencing some what of a renaissance and are really starting to take off in a big way. In recognition of this we have something a little different but still very cool to share with you; the Strela Chronograph from Russian manufacturer Poljot Sturmanskie. Steeped in history this superb chronograph is one of the jewels in the crown of Russian horology.
A Unique Past
Whilst not as well known as their Swiss or German counterparts, thanks in large part to the Iron Curtain and the Cold War, Russian watches have a rich and interesting history which dates back over 80 years. In 1927 The Labour and Defense Council passed a decree to establish a watch industry which would service the requirements of the government and Red Army.
The brief for these new Soviet watches was simple; they were to be accurate, reliable and not inferior in quality to their Western counterparts. The equipment for the production of these watches was purchased from the USA. This was the origin of the First Moscow Watch Factory which today manufactures Poljot watches. It was also this same factory that created the first watch ever worn in space, on the wrist of Russian cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin back in 1961.
Modern Day Incarnation
Today’s watch carries on this proud Russian heritage and is able to lay claim to a famous bit of watch history of its own.
The Strela, which means “Arrow” in Russian was first introduced in 1959 with the 3017 model taking its place in Soviet space history when it was worn on the wrist of Aleksei Leonov during the first ever walk in space in 1965.
This original model featured a chronograph with a 45 minute counter and did not have a date function. It was exclusively designed for the officers of the Air Force and consequently early models were not available to the public as they were constructed to strict military specifications. You can see a picture of one below.
The 3017 movement ceased production in the late 1970s and was replaced with the current 3133 model.
Today, Sturmanskie, which means “Navigator” carries that tradition forward with two 3133 chronograph commemorative editions of this famous watch. These boast a 44 mm case size and, unlike the originals have an exhibition caseback and decorated movement.
Of course, we could write about this watch all day but we think its far better to let the Watch Komrade himself, Mr Craig Hester, from Russian watch retailer Russia2all do the talking. So check out his video below:
Getting Your Hands On One
As you’ve probably guessed from the above video, the best place to get your hands on one of these or many other fantastic brands of Russian watches is Russia2all. Craig is excellent to deal with and very passionate and knowledgeable about the products he stocks.
There are a several variations of the Strela Chronograph but the one we have featured here comes with recommend retail value of US$1,029. Of course if you choose to get if from Russia2all it will only cost you $789.00! Not really a tough decision now is it?
The Final Word
I highly recommend checking out the Strela Chronograph models as well as all the other brands Russia2all has to offer. There are some really cool looking, high quality pieces for surprisingly affordable prices with the added bonus that you won’t see them on every second person’s wrist! Be warned though, their website has got quite a lot of top content so you may find that an hour or two slips away very quickly!
4 Great Comments. Leave one too. | Filed under Watch Reviews
Introducing The PT2 From Pellikaan Timing
It is always a pleasure for us to introduce you to new brands, especially when they make such outstanding looking timepieces! Distinct in its design Dutch based Pellikaan Timing adopts a very simple approach to watch making: high quality, clean lines and easy reading. All this comes together to create stunning looking pieces with a distinct vintage appeal.
Dutch Design
Designed and built in the Netherlands, the flagship watch is the PT2. Basic in its design and function this is watch that has been created to last. Crafted from stainless steel, the 45mm case houses a highly reliable manual wound Swiss Made ETA 6498-1 movement, the same movement which has featured in several other high-grade watches from likes of Omega and Panerai, among others.
The attractive dial ensures that reading the time is not only an easy but also enjoyable experience and the use of Breguet style hands really add to the vintage appeal. Scratch-free sapphire crystals feature on both the front and back of the watch and allow for a great view of the movement in soignée finishing (Côtes de Genève and blued screws). It’s a remarkably simple yet eye catching design.
The standard black or brown leather strap in Panerai style is quite thick (5mm) but at the same time supple and attaches with a heavy clasp which is screwed to the strap. There is also the option of purchasing an additional alligator leather strap, which is of the highest quality and will provide that something extra special you are looking for. As a nice touch, each watch comes with a complimentary black NATO strap.
Available to order on-line on the Pellikaan Timing website, the PT2 from Pellikaan Timing is available with a black or brown leather strap and is very well priced at €790.00 (or approximately US$1,150). The optional Alligator leather strap will cost you an additional €190.00 (or approximately US$275).
The Final Word
It’s quite refreshing sometimes to come across a completely new brand of watch, especially one that is producing watches outside of Switzerland. Whilst it is good to see that the company has chosen to use a well respected Swiss movement to power their timepieces, it is even more positive to see that the design is refreshingly Dutch.
So if you’re looking for a high quality timepiece with ageless appeal that is not going to break your budget, why not check out Pellikaan Timing? I promise you won’t regret it.
Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer – Classic Perfection
If you are looking for a classic dress watch you really cannot go past high-quality German watchmaker Glashütte Original. Combining exceptional craftsmanship with no nonsense German design, the brand continually produces highly desirable, ageless timepieces. Case in point: the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer.
Classic Design
The Senator Chronometer features everything you’re looking for in the perfect dress watch. The silver dial provides a richly contrasting surface for the hand-polished, blued sweep minute and pear-shaped hour hands. Elegantly simplistic it features subsidiary seconds and power reserve displays along the central axis with the latter, located at 12 o’clock, displaying the energy remaining to the hour.
It’s worthwhile taking a bit of time to discuss this seemingly simplistic looking dial, as is often the case, appearances are deceiving. Although not immediately apparent, an extensive manufacturing process goes into making the dial’s seemingly simple surface. Despite the additional time and cost involved, the manufacturer has chosen to employ a vintage tradition: a technique known as l’argenture grainée, a frosted silver plating.
The first step in this complex process consists of machine-blasting the surface of the brass dial with a mixture of water, chalk, and wood. Then a paste containing silver powder and water is carefully applied by hand to the blasted surface. The end result is a truly captivating dial that draws the eye without being too flashy or shiny.
German Precision
It would not be a classic German watch, however, if the focus was purely aesthetic. As the name suggests, the movement is a highly accurate chronometer. In order to achieve this title the movement is required to satisfy a series of tests performed by official independent institutes. The focus of these tests is to determine the exacting level of rate precision of the timepiece utilizing standardized measuring procedures. Only with certification from an authorized institute is a timepiece allowed to be called a chronometer.
Whilst it goes without saying that at Glashütte Original all manually wound calibers are tested according to these strict criteria, the Senator Chronometer is the first timepiece with official confirmation in the form of a certificate.
Thanks to the redesigned Glashütte Original manual winding Caliber 58-01 which powers this masterpiece, precise synchronization of the minute and second hands has now been made possible. A stop-seconds / reset mechanism allows the wearer to set the precise time with ease. Pulling the crown stops the time display and causes the second hand to jump to the beginning position, where it remains; the minute hand moves simultaneously to the next full minute. When the crown is then turned to set the time, the minute hand stops only on the indication of the full minute, thus always guaranteeing the correct relationship between the minutes and seconds displayed.
Providing the perfect view of this finely finished movement is an anti-reflective sapphire crystal case back. Glashütte are well known for their ornate movements and this one is no exception. The owner has a privileged view of the three-quarter plate, screw-mounted gold chatons, and hand-engraved balance cock. Of special note are the newly developed planetary gears that control the display of the movement’s power reserve. When fully wound the Caliber 58-01 has a power reserve of 45 hours.
Available in either rose or white gold, and finished off by a black Louisiana alligator skin strap with a folding clasp for a secure and comfortable fit.
The Final Word
I think it’s fair to say that Glashütte Original make phenomenal watches. Of special note are the classic pieces such as the one shown above which provide the perfect blend of aesthetic and mechanical perfection to create truly timeless watches that can be worn on any occasion and showcase a level of sophistication not often seen.
Yes, they are expensive watches but this is an investment not only for your lifetime but all for future generations to come. They are simply that good.
Vulcain Cricket X-Treme Diver Automatic – Designed For Adventure
You may recall that a few months ago we discussed a special edition Anniversary Heart Cricket watch by Vulcain that had been gifted to President Barack Obama by the manufacturer to celebrate his Presidential inauguration. Although it stirred a little bit of controversy, the watch itself was quite stunning and really showed off the quality of work being produced by this lesser known manufacturer. Recently the brand has unveiled a new model in the Cricket line-up, the very sporty and adventurous Cricket X-treme Automatic.
Sleek and Practical
This new model has a far sportier feel than the Anniversary Heart gifted to Mr Obama, and with good reason. According to the brand, this versatile measuring instrument has been designed for adventurers and represents the next step forward for Vulcain and its models, which have already accompanied the most famous explorers from mountain peaks to ocean depths.
At first look the watch certainly appears to be quite robust, capable of handling the rigours of exploring mountain peaks and board rooms alike. The case size is a generous (although almost standard these days) 44 mm and is available in titanium and steel or black titanium and steel versions. The lay out of the dial is very clean and easy to read and the overall aesthetics of the piece are further accentuated by the asymmetrical arrangement of the fast date-correction pusher at 10 o’clock and the alarm corrector placed between 2 and 3 o’clock.
Practicality is further enhanced by the fluted rotating outer bezel serving as a 60-minute counter, as well as by the new Superluminova-coated hour-markers and hands, making the watch easy to read regardless of the level of light available. Disappointingly though, the watch is only rated at a water resistance of 100m which is a consequence of the alarm function. Whilst this may not be a huge issue for most mainstream consumers, it does seem a little on the low side for a dive watch designed for professional explorers.
As the Cricket series are renowned for their exceptionally audible mechanical alarms the sapphire crystal case-back ensures ideal sound diffusion both in water or in the open air. Furthermore the titanium case enhances the acoustic quality of the watch ensuring you will hear the alarm in any extreme situation you find yourself in.
It certainly looks the part, but has it got the specs to back it up? Vulcain seems to think so.
Cricket V-21 Alarm Calibre
With its clean lines and strong design this new model blends active practicality with notable technological breakthroughs. The major new development in the X-Treme Automatic is the self-winding Cricket V-21 alarm calibre driving it. A modified and presumably improved version of the highly celebrated Cricket Calibre V-10, this new self-winding alarm calibre is a 12-lignes (12’’’) movement equipped with two barrels: one to supply the energy required for the hour, minute and seconds functions, and the other to power the alarm function which sounds for a full 20 seconds.
The movement itself is relatively complex, consisting of 257 parts and features unidirectional winding via the bimetallic oscillating weight fitted with a ceramic ball-bearing mechanism. It beats at a cadence of 18,000 vibrations per hour and is endowed with a 42-hour power reserve. All this works together in perfect harmony to drive the central hour, minute and seconds hands, a date display, as well as a 60-minute graduated counter activated by the unidirectional rotating bezel – and of course the signature alarm function characteristic of Vulcain watches.
Two black-coated steel and titanium versions are available in limited numbered editions of 300 each: a black/blue self-winding CRICKET X-TREME model and a black/white self-winding CRICKET X-TREME variation.
The Final Word
Those of you who are familiar with the original and infamous Cricket alarm calibre upon which Vulcain has built their reputation since 1947 will agree that this is a movement of exceptional pedigree. Thus, it is very exciting to the see the introduction of the new V-21 calibre which really is the culmination of over 60 years of fine-tuning and improvement of the original incarnation.
Add to this the fact that the watch really is quite visually attractive whilst at the same time remarkably practical and you really have a winning combination on your hands.
For more information check out Vulcain’s website.
On The Wrist Review: The CX Swiss Military 20,000FT Watch
A few weeks ago I found out that I would be eligible to receive my very own 20,000ft divers watch courtesy of the manufacturer, CX Swiss Military. Well, last week I took delivery of this record-setting new timepiece of which only a total of 1,000 pieces are available globally. Mine is number 8! Unfortunately I was pretty excited when the rather large box arrived and so ripped it apart without a second thought. Thankfully our good friend Ben Clymer over at Hodinkee had a bit more foresight and so has uploaded a great video of the “un-boxing” process which is definitely worth checking out.
For those of you not already familiar with the 20,000ft and its notorious indestructibility, we first covered it one of our ‘Weird Watch Wednesday’ segments. If you haven’t read that article yet I highly recommend you check it out first before reading the rest of this one as it will give you some valuable background information.
Size Matters…
Now back to the watch. Undeniably the first thing you notice about the 20,000ft is its size. I would estimate the case is probably as thick as 2 to 2 ½ conventional watches and so it sits pretty high off the wrist (as you can see in the photo below.) To give you a relative basis for comparison, Thomas Carey Founder of the Watch and Clock Forum and good friend of The Watch Lounge asked Frank Burgin the owner of CX Swiss Military approximately how many standard sport watches did he think he could make from the same amount of material used for the 20,000ft.
The answer: at least 2 or 3!
Having said that though it is important to recognize what this watch has been designed for, and that is not to be worn with a suit and tie! This is a pure tool watch, practicality takes precedence over aesthetics. That’s not to say that the 20,000ft is an unattractive watch because its not, but it does mean the manufacturer has not compromised on performance simply to make it look better. The timepiece showcases the exceptional level of craftsmanship Swiss Military is made of and represents the culmination of several years of research and development.
Thanks to its generous case size the 20,000ft sits very high on the wrist!
…But So Does Comfort
Still, despite its massive size the watch is quite surprisingly light, relatively speaking of course. You are definitely aware of its presence on your wrist but thanks to the titanium construction it is no where near as heavy as you might anticipate. This is excellent news for the professionals it has been designed for as it means it can worn for hours at time without pulling your shoulder out of its socket. It also means that whilst it’s comfortable to wear, you’re also conscious of it being there and so are less likely to knock it against things, which is a common issue with watches that sit high off the wrist.
As you would expect from a watch that has been purpose built and tested beyond the point of sanity the quality of the case’s construction is above reproach. This is a watch that has been designed to last and unwavering reliability is all but guaranteed. Everything about this watch feels strong and safe and you really feel like it would come through for you in an emergency situation. After all the last thing a soldier in the field wants is a watch that falls apart after a tough day at the office.
It’s also the attention to detail in the case design that really impresses me. Screw-in lugs instead of the spring-loaded variety mean that the bracelet or rubber strap is firmly secured to the case, and therefore your wrist. Both the crown and the chronograph pushers are screw-down, with the pushers featuring red safety markings which are only visible when unscrewed, thus ensuring an air-tight seal. The automatic helium escape valve is visible on the left-hand side of the case, directly opposite the crown.
Something to note also, which isn’t really clear just by looking at the official photos, is that because the watch sits so high the crown and chronograph pushers don’t dig into your wrist which can be a common issue for many sports watches, especially over-sized models. Whilst this may seem like a fairly innocuous point, it can make a huge difference in the comfort stakes. Check out the photo below to see what I mean (you can also see the brightly colored red safety markings.)
Crown and pushers sit nice and high so they don’t dig into your wrist.
And Usability
The 20,000ft is powered by a specially designed shock protected Swiss Made automatic Valjoux 7750 movement that has been certified as a Chronometer, meaning it will not lose more than 4 nor gain more than 6 seconds per day. This means the watch is not only highly functional but also highly accurate. The movement features a 48 hour power reserve and chronograph function, with the date aperture at 3 o’clock.
I have to say though that in my opinion the dial seems a little small and cramped, given the 46mm diameter. Initially I though this could present a real problem, especially when under water, but after a second look I realized the clever design of the uni-directional bezel overcomes this. All the essential information you need to access when diving (i.e. elapsed time) can be easily read from the very clearly marked bezel and the over-sized minute hand means the movement of time is easy to keep track of, even with just a quick glance.
This legibility is further enhanced by the highly lumed dial and bezel. Unfortunately, my poor photographic skills are able to do the luminosity of this watch justice, however, I can assure you it is phenomenal. After a quick charge the critical markings on the dial and bezel become highly visible in the dark and it is exceptionally easy to read. As mentioned before the over-sized minute hand really does make it easy to keep track of the time, even in poor light.
Top Marks For Presentation
The box the 20,000ft comes in deserves a post all of its own. Crafted from wood and finished nicely with a black lacquer, it feels as strong and as well put together as the actual watch itself (a very reassuring sign in my opinion!) Beautifully finished on the inside in yellow, the case contains everything you need to enjoy your new purchase, including instructions, warranty card and so forth. The case even comes equipped with the tool required to change the bracelet (or at least one of them, as you will discover for yourself). A copy of the Guinness World Record certificate is also included as well as information about Swiss Military’s concierge service.
As you can see I’ve chosen to change my watch over to the rubber diving strap that was also provided. No real reason, I just wanted to show you something a little different. The titanium bracelet is also very comfortable and easy to adjust. Although some other brands cut corners when it comes to packaging CX Swiss Military has really outdone themselves, as the photo below illustrates.
The attention to detail in the presentation of this watch is truly impressive!
The Final Word
During the course of my review on this watch I tried to keep in mind its intended purpose. Yes it is a big, bulky watch but it has been designed and built to be worn and used in extreme conditions. On the rubber strap the watch is actually quite comfortable, although admittedly I did get a slightly sore wrist after a full day’s wearing (mainly due to the weight) but over a wetsuit I cannot imagine this being a problem at all. The bezel is highly functional and exceptionally easy to read, although as I mentioned above I found the dial itself to be a bit small for my liking.
Overall it is very apparent that this is an exceptionally well-made, high quality timepiece which will last a lifetime and then some. Apart from its bulky size the only other main deterrent will be the price, which at EUR 2,998 is likely to ensure the patronage of only the more extreme watch users among us.
Still, if you’re one of the lucky ones you may not have to spend a penny to get your hands on this watch. That’s right, in January 2010, and with many thanks to CX Swiss Military, The Watch Lounge will be giving away the above 20,000ft to one lucky reader!
Make sure you stay tuned for your chance to win…
|
|
search the watch lounge
enter your email to get updates in your inbox
Latest Comments
- Nick Orloff: Beautiful piece, regrettably a little (?) out of my price range. I’d love to...
- Olivier Muller: Thanks, BMW
Stay tuned ! - Jack: Looks like a really nice watch for the price!