Archive for the ‘Weird Watch Wednesday’ Category:
Weird Watch Wednesday: The Tuscar From McGonigle
John McGonigle © Harry Sk Tan
As you well know by now, we love introducing you to new and original timepieces here on The Watch Lounge. Well this week’s piece from Irish watchmakers McGonigle is so new and original that there aren’t even photos available yet! However, given this young brand’s success with their first piece, a superb watch featuring a stunning tourbillon complication which received critical acclaim for the purity of its design and function as well as for it’s high standard of workmanship and finish, this latest creation promises to impress.
McGonigle Watches
It’s not often you come across Irish watchmaking brothers, however, John and Stephen have forged quite a name for themselves in the exclusive circle of independent manufacturers. Whilst you may not immediately recognize their names, chances are you would have seen their work in some form or another. Both men spent many years working on complicated timepieces with some of the most prestigious brands in Switzerland, before deciding to launch their own brand, “McGonigle Watches” in 2007 at Baselworld.
The Tuscar
Now they have embarked on the next step of their journey with the announcement of their newest creation. Named the “Tuscar”, in reference to a group of rocks with a lighthouse that is often the first part of Ireland seen by those approaching by sea from the west, this new piece features the brand’s new time-only in-house calibre movement.
And believe us, this in-house caliber has some serious credibility.
“First-look” – A drawing of the new Tuscar from McGonigle © McGonigle
“To ensure the success of our new calibre, we teamed up with the legendary Alberto Papi, one of Switzerland’s finest designer constructors, to help refine our movement design and specifications.” says Stephen McGonigle.
That’s Alberto Papi, as in Renaud et Papi. Need we say more?
Retaining the qualities that were so successful in their tourbillon, including its distinctive design elements and transcendental levels of fine finishing, the brothers have taken these unique features and distilled them to their pure essence in the Tuscar.
According to John McGonigle, the intention was to create a “time-only watch with a high focus on excellent timekeeping; a substantial power reserve; solid reliability; and with superb finishing and decoration. The design had to have a clean coherent style and we wanted the principle mechanical elements visible on the dial side. To achieve all of that we had to develop our own movement from the ground up.”
Sounds amazing!
The Tuscar launches with a subscription-only limited edition series of 10 pieces called, “One of Ten”, featuring a white gold case and a transparent sapphire dial revealing all of the subtleties of the stunningly finished movement beneath.
The boy’s first creation, the McGonigle Tourbillon © Ian Skellern
As a subtle point of further differentiation each watch will be marked “One of Ten” rather than traditional method of individual numbering. This first series will be distinctive from the models to follow by virtue of materials used in the movement, the design and shape of certain bridges, the type of finish of individual parts and the engraving.
The Final Word
The McGonigle brothers are true independent watchmakers. The focus is completely on quality, originality and craftsmanship. Nothing is rushed and every step taken is well thought-out and planned in detail. These are watches that are created purely for the love of watch making by two exceptionally talented craftsmen.
If you are looking for a high quality, superbly finished timepiece than look no further, you’ve just found one of the most underrated brands in the industry.
To find out more visit McGonigle’s official website – www.mcgonigle.ie
Tuscar – Technical Specifications
Calibre: McG01 manual-wind mechanical movement
Double mainspring barrels connected in parallel
Power reserve: 90 hours
Balance: free sprung balance spring with Breguet overcoil
Balance frequency: 18,000 bph/3hz.
Balance diameter 12.8mm (large diameter for timekeeping stability)
Gold escape wheel (to function without oil)
Number of jewels: 31
Case
22k white gold case and crown
Case diameter: 42.5mm
Crystals: Anti-reflective treatment on both top crystal and display back
Water resistance: 30 metres/ 3ATM
Dial & Hands
Transparent sapphire dial
Flame-blued hand-polished steel and hand-polished gold hands
Strap & Buckle
Hand engraved 18k white gold deployant buckle.
Black hand-stitched alligator
What do you think? Leave a comment. | Filed under New This Week, Weird Watch Wednesday
Weird Watch Wednesday: Chopard L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon
In a highly competitive market, such as the luxury watch industry, participants need to evolve constantly, trying new things and finding new ways to get the upper hand on their competitors. Sometimes these new concepts are beautifully executed and work out well and sometimes they just fail dismally. Fortunately for high-end luxury watchmaker Chopard their latest creation, to be presented at Basel World later this month, sits firmly in the first category.
A Podium Finish
Exquisitely different from anything the brand has attempted before, this new piece only serves to reaffirm Chopard’s impressive capabilities as a watchmaker. True to the brand’s motor racing themed heritage, the shape and design of new Engine One Tourbillon is reticent of an engine block. In fact, almost everything about this new piece has been inspired by motor racing in some way or another.
The manually wound L.U.C 1TRM tourbillon calibre is COSC-certified and has been made completely in-house by Chopard and specially shaped to fit within the unique case. It is equipped with a 60-hour power reserve and is mounted within the case on shock-absorbing blocks much like a race car engine. Three lever-arms inserted into the middle of the case hold it in place and ensure absolute stability.
As the name suggests the piece features a tourbillon complication, which is exposed on the stunningly simplistic dial, sitting just below the power reserve indicator. The tourbillon cage completes one revolution every 60 seconds and the bridge has been beautifully skeletonized, maximizing the visual appeal of this highly desirable novelty.
Subtle Yet Distinctive
The distinctive case is crafted from titanium and measures 35.4mm in width by 44.4mm in length. Showcasing a striking combination of polished and brushed surfaces, the sides of the piece reveal contrasting brushed flanks and strongly curved lugs, creating a case that is both aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortably fitting. Adding to that comfort is a hand-sewn black alligator strap with a titanium buckle, a welcome change from the rubber straps many luxury brands have been favoring on their high-end sports pieces.
A quick look at the dial and you could be forgiven for thinking you had just opened the bonnet of an expensive sports car. The satin central section and vertically striated outer sections work together to create the impression of engine rocker covers and provide a very unique look without cluttering or over-complicating the dial. The power reserve indicator sits on a slightly elevated area at 12 o’clock, looking every bit the gas-gauge it has been designed to emulate.
As a an added touch the hour markers and indices are located directly on the shaped sapphire crystal, as opposed to the dial which is the more common practice, and this in turn creates an appealing three-dimensional effect while at the same improving the overall legibility of the exceptionally refined dial.
As the brand is celebrating its 150th birthday this year, the L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon will be offered in a limited production of just 150 pieces and the price is expected to be in excess of $100,000.
The Final Word
There are many things to love about this new piece from Chopard. Its original design, the fact the movement is made completely in-house, the adherence to the brand’s racing heritage, the list goes on. But what truly impresses us, however, is the fact that the brand has been willing to try something bold and different and has really pulled it off.
This watch doesn’t need to use cheap tricks and bright colors to stand out, it is its simplicity that makes it truly distinctive.
Weird Watch Wednesday: The Rebellion Predator
It’s unique and aggressive styling make the newest timepiece from novice watchmaker Rebellion our feature piece for this week. Aptly named the Predator, this latest creation represents Rebellion’s first attempt at a timepiece in a round case whilst still staying true to their automobile racing roots. Conceived in collaboration with the highly regarded, international watch designer Eric Giroud, this latest offering presents a truly memorable looking timepiece.
Racing Heritage
Like all of Rebellion’s previous timepieces, the Predator takes many of its technical and design cues from the automobile racing industry. Many examples of this can be readily found in both the case and dial composition; the brake discs, the pedals, the push rod shaped bridges connecting the chronograph counters to the dial all combine to give the watch an authentic racing feel. Even the sub-dials themselves are reminiscent of gauges in a high-performance race car.
The case itself constructed using a sandwich of superimposed layers which are available in various materials, including combinations of red gold, steel and ceramic, giving the wearer a number of options when it comes to choosing a more personalized timepiece. The base of the case is a honeycomb design which provides a rigid but at the same time lightweight construction.
To really distinguish the piece from competitors (as if it wasn’t enough already!) the bezel is attached by eight distinctive screws custom made by Rebellion and prominently featuring the brand’s logo on their heads.
Technically Adept
Like all good race cars, however, the Predator is more than just a pretty face. Animated by an automatic RE-1 calibre with a 50-hour power reserve this new piece makes the formidable technical mastery of the double sectorial seconds hand at 9 o’clock seem easy. If you take a closer look at the dial you will see that the shorter hand indicates 0 to 30 seconds, with the longer one taking over for 30 to 60 seconds.
Whilst certainly not a high-end complication by any means, it is still a very cool novelty and only serves to add to the authentic racing feel of the piece.
Also offered in a time-only version with three hands and date, as well as a mono-pusher chronograph, the new Predator is presented on a black rubber strap with a red gold, ceramic or steel patented folding clasp, depending on your choice of case materials.
The Predator will be limited in its production and once it is formally announced at Basel World is expected to sell at somewhere between CHF20,000 (US$18,500) – CHF50,000 (US$46,500).
The Final Word
This newest piece from Rebellion certainly won’t suit all tastes. However, for those interested in something with a very distinctive look and the technical credentials to match the Predator definitely warrants a second look. Giroud has designed a piece that stays true to the brand’s race car inspired ethos, incorporating functionality and form within a solidly constructed case.
You may never get behind the wheel of a race car but you will certainly look the part.
Weird Watch Wednesday: The Concord C1 Code Chronograph
This week’s piece from Swiss watch maker Concord is certainly unique but we’re not really sure if that’s a good thing. Over the last few years the luxury brand has built a reputation for pushing the envelope when it comes to design, in large part thanks to the marketing ingenuity of former President Vincent Perriard, who is now working his magic over at Techno Marine as the global CEO. However, this latest piece, the C1 Code Chronograph seems to lack that spirit of innovation, replacing it instead with cheap gimmicks.
Under the guiding hand of Mr Perriard Concord produced the C1 Chronograph, a watch which attracted a great deal of fanfare and was well-known for being as loved as it was hated. Admirers extolled its innovative and unique design while critics said it was clunky and unattractive. Regardless of what you think, it cannot be denied that the C1 series well and truly put Concord back on the map.
As such its not surprising then that the brand would want to create further variations of this successful base model in order to maintain interest in the brand and continue to drive sales. Having said that though, this latest version due to be officially launched at Basel World next month, seems to lack the creativity and boldness of its predecessors.
Essentially what we have here is a Concord C1 Chronograph with mathematical equations engraved into the sapphire crystal. The reasons for this are rather vague as there is no direct link that we can see between Concord and mathematics, although we do appreciate that watch making is certainly a very precise art.
To us, it seems that the designers over at Concord just got lazy.
Fellow watch enthusiast Kyle over at Perpetuelle recently gave his thoughts on this rather unusual choice of dial “decoration” saying:
“…while the engraving of an algebraic formula/cryptic mathematical equation directly into the crystal of the watch is novel, it seems to make the (already busy) dial hard to read and I wonder what is the real allure of this for a potential buyer? I see none.”
We tend to agree.
From our point of view there is no added value to the consumer and legibility (arguably the most important aspect of a watch) is further reduced. To be honest, we would be surprised if even mathematicians found this to be an attractive timepiece, although undoubtedly it would draw some attention.
The concept of engraving on the sapphire crystal on the other hand though is undeniably cool, and it will certainly be interesting to see what other (perhaps more innovative?) brands will come up with. Who knows, perhaps we’ll see a watch with the entire dial engraved on the sapphire crystal? Admittedly unlikely, but you never know!
The Final Word
While we think Concord have got it half right by trying something a little different, in our eyes they have missed the mark somewhat. Perhaps this is yet another example of a concept not transferring as envisioned from the drawing board to design reality? Whether it was their intention or not, this new model simply comes across as a poorly disguised attempt to exploit a previously successful model which we don’t think will fool seasoned consumers.
Yes it is unusual but not really in a good way.
Weird Watch Wednesday: The Upside Down Watch
The first ‘Upside Down’ watch on the wrist of its proud new owner © Ian Skellern
This week’s watch is the super cool first creation of newly independent master watch maker Ludovic Ballouard. Simply called the ‘Upside Down’ watch, few details were known about this exceptional timepiece during the construction phase other than that it would feature a never-before-seen complication. Conceived and completed in an exceptionally short time-frame, the relatively simplistic looking first completed model belies the level of complexity involved in making a timepiece of this calibre.
Get ready to see something you’ve never seen before!
Where Did He Come From?
Don’t feel bad if you are not be familiar with Ludovic’s name, I’d certainly only heard it in passing up until a few months ago. However, fortunately thanks to the keen insight of well-regarded industry veteran Ian Skellern, whose superb photography you will often see on this site, this man’s exceptional skills as a new and upcoming independent watchmaker were soon brought to my attention.
Regardless of your familiarity with Ludovic you will definitely be well aware of his former employer, high-end watch manufacturer F.P. Journe, where he spent the last seven years honing his skills on some of their most highly complicated models, including the Sonnerie Souveraine.
It’s difficult really to think of a better training ground for an independent watchmaker with a highly creative mind! The funny thing is though that according to Ian, when Ludovic left Journe he just had a few ideas and a few sketches, nothing more.
The ‘Upside Down’ complication in all its glory! © Ian Skellern
The Upside Down Watch
That’s what makes the story of the first Upside Down watch just that little more interesting. Around the same time Ludovic started developing his plans into a workable model, a friend based in Paris mentioned this new independent watch maker to a wealthy watch collector. Knowing little more than that this new piece would feature a unique, never before seen complication, he immediately ordered the first piece.
So the challenge was set. It was time to take this simple sketch into a full scale completed model and let’s just say the final product certainly lives up to Ludovic’s outstanding reputation.
Looking at the dial the first thing you will notice that is that all the numbers are upside down, except one, hence the name. The model is called ‘Upside down’ because only the correct hour is the right side up. When the minute hand reaches 12 o’clock, the old hour number instantaneously flips upside down and the new hour simultaneously flips right-side-up. It doesn’t sound anywhere near as good when you write it, so it’s easier to just show you (and a big thanks again to Ian Skellern for this great video!)
As you can see in the video Ludovic has chosen to exhibit the complication on the back of the movement, as opposed to putting it out of sight under the dial as would be the generally accepted approach. You will notice that each hour has its own Maltese cross that is rotated at the appropriate time by a large diameter wheel and so the decision to place the complication at the rear of the piece affords the viewer an obstructed view of this visual delight. However, as Ian told me, it was no easy feat to achieve this as it meant arranging the movement architecture so that 12 vertical pinions could traverse the movement and link each hour to its Maltese cross.
Initial delivery will consist of 12 limited edition timepieces and as an added novelty the hours numbers themselves are used to denote which number in the series the watch is. For example, if the piece is number 3/12 it will have the 3 in a different colour to the other numbers to indicate this.
The Final Word
When you consider that not only is this Ludovic’s first timepiece, a timepiece that features a never-before-seen complication no less, but also the fact that it was completed in less than twelve months you really start to grasp the exceptional level of skill this man possesses. Even more exciting is the fact that’s he just starting out. Just imagine what he’ll come up with next!
Fortunately we have been given the fantastic privilege of being able to interview Ludovic, which we will be publishing on The Watch Lounge in the next few weeks. So stay tuned to find out not only what he has to say about the incredible Upside Down watch but also for hints on what other ideas he may have up his sleeve!
And a special thank you again to Ian Skellern for all his help with the information on this piece.
|
|
search the watch lounge
enter your email to get updates in your inbox
Latest Comments
- Chris: The lugs, the lugs, the lugs. Bremont did an amazing job designing this watch, especially...
- Cliff: I already have one of these. I like it. Built like a tank, and almost as big! So I had to...
- Ramsay Taplin: It looks like a watch Vicky Pollard might wear. http://www.littlerbritain.c...
New This Week
- Looking for the latest posts on The Watch Lounge?
- The 'New This Week' Category features all the posts published for the week from Sunday through to Saturday
- Its refreshed every Sunday to make it easy to quickly find the latest stories that have been published.
So to see what's new on The Watch Lounge this week just click here!