We like to think we know our place here at The Watch Lounge, and that place typically takes us far away from the more mainstream brands. However, when we saw the gorgeous new Haute Joaillerie collection from master-watchmakers Jaeger-LeCoultre, we simply could not resist. Take one look at the photos and we’ll think you’ll understand why. If you have been looking for a sophisticated, elegant gift for that someone special than you may have just found it (assuming that it is, that you can choose just one!)

Decorative Art
According to the highly respected Marque this year’s new Haute Joaillerie models tell the tale of an enchanting time in which watchmaking magic is admirably expressed through that of the decorative arts.

Undoubtedly there is a little bit of PR fluff in there but we have to say that this is one of the most balanced collections we have seen in some time. For the most part the timepieces retain a level of mechanical complexity that will satisfy the true aficionados of the brand, including complications such as tourbillions and power reserves, whilst at the same time showcasing the exceptional talents of the craftsmen who have transformed these blank canvases into genuine works of art.

The exceptional attention to detail and hand-finished touches are apparent in every facet of these timepieces, and in conjunction with the creative yet mildly constrained designs, they come together to form a truly stunning range, offering potential clients a somewhat varied assortment of luxurious Haute Joaillerie pieces to choose from.

Certainly we won’t go as far as to say that there is something for everyone here, but for true lovers of aesthetically inspired timepieces this new collection certainly warrants a closer look.

The Final Word
Jaeger-LeCoultre will always hold a special place in our hearts, for no other reason than that they are, in our humble opinions, one of the best luxury watch manufacturers in the world. They craft sensational timepieces which are renowned for both their quality and complexity, and carry a name that is held in the highest esteem the world over.

The focus of this new Haute Joaillerie collection, as the name suggests, is primarily on the pieces’ superb aesthetic features. However, unlike so many other jewellery collections, you can be absolutely certain that you are buying both a work of art and an exceptionally well made timepiece.

And for us, that makes all the difference.

Check out the full collection at Jaeger Le-Coultre’s official website: www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

The internet sometimes presents a strange paradox for luxury watch consumers and enthusiasts. On the one hand, it has become a daily, essential tool for millions of people the world over in little more than a decade, and yet on the other hand it is still considered with a degree of mistrust by many brands of horology.

The question is, why? And more importantly what will be the consequences of these drawn-out, toe-dipping exercises?

What’s Stopping Them?
Perhaps it is the speed? The internet is evolving at an incredibly rapid pace, at odds with an industry whose core business model is based upon time (and the slow passage of it). Maybe the internet is too vague, too broad? The watch-making industry is governed by laws of precision and the unpredictable nature of the internet is in direct contradiction with its well set standards, based upon personal relationships and confidentiality.

Whatever the reasons, the fact remains that the internet can (and will) easily survive and grow without the aide of the luxury watch industry, but is the converse true?

If Facebook’s most recent statistics are to be believed, there are over 500 million active users each month spending a combined 7 billion minutes interacting with their peers, catching up on all the latest news and trends, and most importantly learning about new products and concepts. Can any brand, luxury watch oriented or not, really afford not to be operating effectively in this space?

There is one thing for sure: no matter the brand positioning strategies companies have adopted, it’s hard (impossible even) these days to move forward without the internet. Ignoring it is a dangerous game, and just as bad is seeing it only as a simple tool without many real practical applications. However, the more innovative companies have embraced the issue and created special roles for Community Managers (see our interview with Jérôme Pineau, from Marvin Watches, here).

Marvin’s Community Manager Jérôme Pineau

And yet many of them still hesitate – taking a kind of wait-and-see attitude to see how things go. This is a dangerous bet on the future, as it implies that, one day, all the uses and habits of the web will finally be stable. There is nothing less sure, as the web is in a constant state of transformation.

In a bid to try and get some more insight from the industry players themselves, the Watch Lounge asked a number of mainstream horology brands one single question:

“In the process of the continuous growth of a brand and its image, can the Internet make the différence?”

As a first point, it’s quite significant to note that many brands decided to simply ignore our request. Although it would seem they are quite happy to talk to us about any number of other topics, internet strategies evidently is not one of them. This very first observation reveals a web which is still a quite unknown object, one in which brands identify doubts and fears more than opportunities.

Why these fears? Firstly, because brands can’t comprehend how a channel governed by complete opposite rules to their own can, in the end, help them achieve their goals. Major watchmaking houses try to build their reputation upon luxury: the luxury of taking his time, the luxury of final pieces, the luxury of booklets and stores, the luxury of customers. On the contrary, the web is based upon various other values, such as real-time, non mastered exchanges, large consumer audiences, and uncertain futures. How do you reconcile these two seemingly conflicting universes?

These are questions that Ludovic Ballouard simply sweeps away when considering the inestimable added-value the Internet brought to his business : “The internet really makes the difference! It allowed me to launch my brand and stay independent! I would never had the means to launch my business only with paper. If people like my watch, they freely talk about it and spread positive news about it all over the world“.

In fact, this phenomenon of third party endorsement is what each and every brand desperately seeks. But by fear of the opposite phenomenon, wide-spread denigration, many prefer to stay away from social media. The precautionary principle, some would say. But many times, despite this precaution, Internet users will in the end talk about the brand, even if they are not invited to. And this is where negative comments can pop up…

“Indeed, if web users disliked my watch and if negative comments had been posted, I could have considered a brand new strategy, from scratch, of my brand and it’s awareness ! Internet is all about criticism”, continues Ludovic.

Still, managing criticism when you’ve spent the two last centuries working with a top-down communication model can be quite a touchy exercise.

For Jérôme Pineau, Community Manager of Marvin Watches, “the Internet has had a significant impact on brand and image building in the luxury world, and horology is no exception.”

So why are brands are so reluctant then? Because for too long they’ve been focused on their own products, and sometimes, on their related environments (such as sport, culture, etc.). But for Jérôme, the rules have changed:

“Brand building can only be accomplished around the customers. The customer IS the brand and its image is their perception of it. And if the customers are online, then this is where it makes sense to reach out to them. This phenomenon is planetary in nature. It reaches across geographic and cultural boundaries.”

The Final Word
In the end, the last psychological barrier for a real web strategy is the fear of an omnipresent web, that will take the priority over the other channels of communication. A statement that Jérôme quickly refutes: “It makes sense to leverage channels like Facebook, Twitter, or YouTube without neglecting the classical ones as well. Because a balanced strategy is typically more effective as long as all efforts are integrated and aligned around a consistent message. The objective is to be no longer talking AT the customer, but WITH them”.

UPDATE: We have just received an update from professional watch journalist Miguel Seabra who has confirmed that Nadal’s watch was stolen during the Masters 1000 Toronto event, that went from 9-15 August, and that the star athlete then played watch-less the following week at the Masters 1000 Cincinatti.

We are still waiting for confirmation though if the timepiece was recovered, or if in fact Nadal has received a replacement. Stay tuned.

Rumours have emerged that the highly complex Richard Mille 027 Tourbillon gifted to tennis superstar Rafael Nadal was stolen a few weeks ago at the Toronto Tournament. The timepiece (which we first wrote about here) gained worldwide fame when it was first announced that it would adorn Nadal’s wrist during every game of every tournament he played.

The $525,000 price tag didn’t hurt either.

However, it remains unclear as to whether the timepiece was actually stolen or if perhaps this is a PR stunt to renew interest in the product, as we have tracked down conflicting reports (and photos) that show Nadal wearing his favorite new timepiece at the US Open Nike Primetime Knockout Event as well as during training sessions ahead of the start of the US Open.

Picture via Nadal News

Picture via Nadal News

Alternatively, it is highly possible, as our favorite tennis journalist Miguel Seabra points out, that Richard Mille has simply given Nadal a replacement timepiece to fill the half a million dollar gap left on his wrist.

We should all be so lucky!

We’ll keep you posted as soon as we hear more news but so continues the interesting, and sometimes controversial, story of the Richard Mille 027 Toubillon.

Like many of you we love complicated timepieces. The only problem is, sometimes they’re just too, well, complicated. The delicate feats of engineering ingenuity are overshadowed or worse still, concealed completely, by overzealous aesthetic touches which mask the inner beauty of the complex mechanism they overlay. However, one man is taking a stand.

And that man is Beat Haldimann.

Redefining Horological Art
Although it has been a couple of years now since he first presented his stunning creation, the Haldimann H8 Sculptura, is undoubtedly one of the most simplistically magnificent timepieces we have ever laid eyes upon. This timepiece completely redefines the concept of a watch as a piece of art, and ensures that the superbly crafted complication, a one-minute flying tourbillion in this case, remains the centre of attention at all times.

Literally.

There are no tricks, no concealed hands or laser engraved sapphire crystals, the dial is as completely pure and untouched as it appears in the photos. The central focus is unequivocally the stunning flying tourbillion complication, contrasting superbly against its sleek, black backdrop. Utterly mesmerizing the H8 Sculptura is not so much a tool for measuring the passage of time but rather a celebration of exquisite craftsmanship and an unwavering commitment to traditional techniques.

As with all independent watch-makers the H8 Sculptura is a deeply personal piece, offering the patient observer a brief insight into the philosophy of its creator. Through the expression of this piece Haldimann has elevated the timepiece from its traditional function of time-keeping and transformed it into a portable personal piece of horologic art – a sculpture in fact.

To fully appreciate the concept it may help to think of the timepiece as a special exhibit in a museum. The beautifully crafted case serves as the display cabinet, impeccably designed to allow observers the best view possible of its precious contents. The tourbillon can be gazed upon from any angle thanks to the low level of the bezel and the convex crystal, granting the undoubtedly speechless admirer uninterrupted viewing pleasure of Haldimann’s masterful craftmanship.

Available in a 39 or 42mm platinum case, the H8 Sculptura can be specially ordered and then collected in person from the very hands of its creator, Beat Haldimann at his atelier in Thun, Switzerland.

The Final Word
Truly the H8 Sculptura is in a league of its own. Come anywhere within its proximity and the eye is irresistibly drawn to the hypnotic rotation of the tourbillion, spinning in constant harmony, completing a full rotation every 60 seconds. Stare at it long enough and you’ll soon realize that observing the passage of time is naught else but a foolish pursuit.  It’s almost as though Haldimann is saying to us, ‘let us observe beauty, whilst we still can…”

Want to learn more? Check out the official website: www.uhren-atelier.ch

It’s no secret that the luxury watch market is largely geared towards the male population, with many brands not even offering collections for women, or if they do, they are quite limited and often don’t seem to really embody the brand’s strengths like their male counterparts. Linde Werdelin looks set to buck this trend, however, with the announcement of their very first ladies watch, the gorgeous (and aptly named) The White Watch.

Staying True To The Brand
Linde Werdelin is one of our favourite up-and-coming brands to watch for a variety of reasons but especially because they have a strong, clear vision of how their timepieces should look and function, and they adhere to it religiously.

 As such, we would expect that the look and style of their very first ladies piece should not differ dramatically from the design cues of their core, male oriented, collection and happily for us (and we’re sure for female consumers world-wide too), it doesn’t.

Based on the highly popular 3-Timer model, the new White Watch reinforces LW’s commitment to quality and understated style whilst all the while providing the wearer with a highly practical tool. Even more importantly is the fact that, unlike so many other brands, LW hasn’t “dumbed it down” for their ladies collection, which is absolutely fantastic to see. This is a timepiece for an intelligent, active woman with discerning tastes which does not compromise on the brand’s core offering.

Be assured though that this didn’t just happen by accident, it was most certainly a conscious decision on the behalf of the brand’s founders, Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin, who have worked incredibly hard to build a strong identity for their young company. To reinforce this point Linde, LW’s Creative Director, states simply that; “I am very pleased that our designs although male marketed are appealing to women as well. Maintaining the brand’s DNA is very important for LW and The White Watch is no exception.”

Although The White Watch takes its design cues from the 3-Timer, there have been some subtle changes to reflect its more feminine status. While the strap mechanism remains the same, the white calfskin chosen for the new model has a reduced width which allows the watch to sit well on slender wrists. With white as the dominating colour the dial and calfskin strap match the details in colour on the screws and 24-hour bezel markings.

Powered by an ETA 2893 automatic movement complete with GMT function, the stainless steel case is definitely on the large side for a woman’s watch at 46mm across but we don’t think this is a timepiece that will sit especially large on the wrist, and given the current trends this sizing is more than acceptable.

The White Watch is limited to just 51 pieces worldwide and will be soon available at LindeWerdelin.com and authorised retailers and will retail at €4,680. If you are keen on this piece though our advice would be to register your interest now as we don’t think they will have any trouble selling out this collection.

The Final Word
In our humble opinions the result of LW’s first foray into the women’s market is nothing short of stunning. Linde Werdelin has somehow achieved the seemingly impossible task of making a timepiece look tough and delicate at the same time, all whilst remaining true to their brand DNA. Certainly it won’t suit all tastes and there will be those who say it’s not feminine enough and the like, but we believe this timepiece reflects exactly the attributes of a female LW wearer.

Sexy, tough and just downright cool.

To learn more about this great brand and to keep up to date with all their latest happenings be sure to check out of the official Linde Werdelin Facebook page: www.facebook.com/LWuniverse

My name is Vincent and I live in a quiet New York suburb just 30 minutes from New York City’s busiest areas. I have been a watch fanatic most of my life sporting a Mickey Mouse Timex from the age of five, before I could even tell the time!

I have gone through my different phases of watch “tastes”, ranging from my gadgety digital watch phase Casio phone dialer to my hip phase of Swatch and Fossil. However, it wasn’t until I worked with a watch-smith for some time during my high school years that my love for mechanical watches really bloomed!

I am now a law enforcement helicopter pilot and like most pilots, we just love watches! I have to say my all time favorites are my trusty Breitling B-2 and my Bell and Ross 03-88 Aviation Type.

I also wear a Hamilton Aviator and in the last 2 years came to fall in love with the LUM TEC line of watches. I currently own a B-1, a Lumzilla, and a revisit to quartz analog with the M15.

In all I own about 15 watches that I rotate through with mood and mission for the day. As a helicopter pilot reliability is essential and a reliable wristwatch is standard equipment as part of my flight gear.

Being so close to NYC allows me to window shop all the latest high end models that maybe one day I will make a reality on my own wrist.

One day.

The name Speake-Marin resonates profoundly with a number of watch enthusiasts around the globe, and with good reason. He is without a doubt one of the most talented independent watchmakers of this century and, like his passionate colleagues, he is unreservedly committed to his craft.

Those who know Peter admire him for his unrelenting drive and will to succeed, not to mention his exemplary watch-making abilities. At the same time he is also well regarded for his affable nature and approachable demeanor, demonstrating on numerous occasions both his willingness and indeed desire to meet with past, present and future customers, as well as just watch enthusiasts in general (this author included).

And now, he might just be coming to a city near you.

The Marin 2 World Tour
If you have been following the Speake-Marin story you will know that over the past few years he has spent countless hours and invested significant sums of his own money into developing his own in-house calibre, the superb SM2, which made its maiden appearance this year in the highly-praised Marin 1, at Basel World 2010 (pictured above).

The sublime SM2 Calibre.

Now, after many more hours of hard work he is almost ready to unveil his next creation; the Marin 2. This new piece will feature a manual winding movement, a variation of the new in-house calibre SM2, which allows for a thinner case and  – without the winding rotor blocking the view – grants the fascinated observer a full appreciation of the movement through the display back.

A Marin 2 prototype…bring on the finished product!

In Peter’s own words he has put his heart and soul into this watch and is eager to learn what you, his fans, think. The difference is that unlike so many others, he actually means it and to prove it, he will be undertaking a world tour in September this year to effectively launch the Marin 2 in person.

The tour will begin in Canada and encompass the USA, Hong Kong, Australia Singapore, Vietnam, Japan

and Malaysia. So if you leave in or around any of these areas this could be your chance to meet one of the world’s best independent watch-maker’s and listen first-hand as he explains the intricate details of his latest creation.

The master at work.

To stay up to date with all the details of Peter Speake-Marin’s up-coming world-tour and to follow his progress around the globe be sure to check out and ‘like’ his regularly updated and highly informative facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/SpeakeMarin.

The Final Word
This is a unique opportunity to meet one of the greats of the horological world and experience first hand the ineffable charisma and passion that is Peter Speake-Marin. Having had this great man explain the intricate details of his creations to me first-hand, I can guarantee that this an event that any true watch enthusiast will cherish for years to come.

So don’t miss out, join the Facebook fan page and keep up to date with all the details and who knows, in the not too distant future you could be shaking the very hand that has crafted and constructed some of the most exceptional timepieces of the last decade!

Well, it’s been a big couple of weeks for Australian watch lovers. Firstly, the announcement that the incredible Chapter Two by Maitres du Temps was being offered for retail sale for first time in Australia, then the exclusive Fine Watchmaking event hosted by Cartier in Sydney and now we have some more exciting news to share.

Today we received official confirmation that the excellent collection from the BALL Watch Company will soon be available in Australia!

The BALL Watch Company
For those of you not familiar with the brand we encourage you to check out our article on the Ball Watch Engineer Hydrocarbon, in which we cover the company’s rich history. However, for the purposes of this article all you need to know is that the Ball Watch Company was established in 1891 by Webster Clay Ball, a jeweler and horologist who established an accurate and uniform system of timekeeping within the American railroad system.

That, and the fact that they make exceptional timepieces. Robust, highly legible and famed for their excellent build quality, Ball watches truly are tool watches as they should be. Not only do they look great but they also serve a practical purpose and their range is broad enough to suit nearly all tastes and budgets.

Australian retail prices will range from around $AUD2,000 – $AUD5,000 for the standard models and go all the way up to around $AUD20,000 for the limited edition models in precious metals, such as platinum. Pieces from the ladies collection will also be available and will range from around $AUD1,500 – $AUD3,000. Although all models may not be available in store, we are told that it should be possible to order any specific model from the current collection directly from Switzerland, if you should so desire.

No information has been released yet on stockists, however, as soon as this information becomes available we will let you know. We anticipate things should move fairly quickly, however, as the brand is being distributed by the highly reputable Avstev Group, Australia’s largest privately owned watch distributor which also looks after Raymond Weil, Frederique Constant, Girard-Perregaux and TechnoMarine.

The Final Word
Ball watches really do offer a viable alternative to mainstream brands such as Tag Heuer and Omega and it’s fantastic to see these sorts of brands finally making their way into the Australian market. Having said that, the distribution will be very selective and in limited numbers so you can be safe in the knowledge that not too many people will be walking around with your new favorite timepiece!

To find out more about the Ball Watch Company please visit their official website: www.ballwatch.com/

In 2009, the horology galaxy experienced a small seismic shake. Although on the tiny Rocher, as we call Monaco in France, it may have been considered by some to be a Big Bang: the creation of a new independent watchmaker named Ateliers… deMonaco.

However, it hasn’t all been celebrations and explosions. The launch and the subsequent first year of a brand is critical to its long-term success. For one, the brand has to consistently find ways to answer all those annoying questions about their reputation, how they’re building brand recognition, what will be the return on investment, how they will increase sales and so on.

Undoubtedly every other brand in the world faces these same issues on a regular basis, however, the key difference for a young brand such as AdM is that the answers to these questions will not just determine their ability to pay off potential debts or deficits, but indeed their ability to survive to year two.

To gain a greater understanding of the challenges faced in the first year by a young start-up company competing in a capital and research intensive market place we decided to go straight to the source. In this case the charismatic and insightful Robert van Pappelendam, Initiator and co-founder of the Ateliers deMonaco.

What follows is a chronological journey through the short life-time of a very exciting new company, and a must read for any aspiring entrepreneurs out there.

From L – R: Robert van Pappelendam, Manuel da Silva Matos (engineer), Peter Stas and Pim Koeslag.

Anatomy of a (forthcoming) success.

2004 - Master Horloger Pim Koeslag, Robert van Pappelendam and Peter Stas – future co-founders of Ateliers deMonaco – meet at Swiss watch-maker Frédérique Constant. First challenge: they all are very, very different, yet somehow complimentary characters.

However, they soon discover that they have more in common than just their Dutch passports. They are also all passionate watch nerds. However, is passion enough to launch a new brand? Well, if history is anything to go by than the answer is a resounding no.

Fortunately, the heroes of our story have far more than just their passion to rely on.

Pim had a tremendous talent and intuition for designing innovative movements. Peter had the knowledge and more importantly the experience to create a new company from scratch, as he had proven with Frédérique Constant, and Robert had earned his reputation as successful marketer and brand builder. Individually, it never could have worked but the three of them together just might be enough.

Summer 2005 – The team starts thinking about a dream: creating a high end luxury watch brand from scratch that would over time become a legacy of their generation. According to Robert, the initiator & co-founder of the brand, “each generation wants to develop its own innovation that will cascade to the next generations. It’s a deeply rooted desire to leave a legacy, and we wanted to leave ours, or at least give it a try!”

A bold notion but certainly easier said than done. Doing the same things others do rarely results in something that will stand the test of time. So the team gave themselves one year to come up with an idea, a unique style & signature and innovation program. This is where the soul of Ateliers deMonaco was born.

Summer 2006 – Time to make it reality! The team felt they had come to a point where their idea was strong enough to start translating the dream into viable business. It was time to progress innovative thinking into real-time development, to create something truly unique: “If you launch from scratch, you need to have breakthrough innovation that must trigger a wow-effect. This is where we realized we must set foot where no one else has before”, remembers Robert.

Summer 2007 – Well into the journey and with serious money being invested into the research and development program as well as building the brand’s proposition, Robert remembers that the question most frequently asked at that time was: “Are you guys nuts or brilliant?”

Probably a mix of both.

Things are progressing well but now it’s time to think about a location. Switzerland is the logical choice for haute-horlogerie, especially when considering the tight link with Frédérique Constant. But the team argues that new concepts need new territories, and they draft a list of countries that, as Robert puts it, goes “from the classy London to the trendy Paris, via Dubai, Singapore or even China»”.

As a great lover of art, Robert noticed that painters like Matisse and Picasso, writers like Checkov and Cocteau, philosophers like Nietzsche or architects like Le Corbusier all had something in common: the south of France, the Riviera. When Robert matched that report with the necessity to find a place that could serve both as an inspiration, aspiration as well as being a good reflection of the brand’s essence, Monaco magically appeared as front runner.

“Monaco has this Hollywood like mix of style, money, stars and luxury”, analyzes Robert. Next challenge: incorporate the brand « Ateliers deMonaco » in Monaco!

Summer of 2008 – Pim finalizes the very first model, the Carré d’Or Grand Tourbillion XP-1, with its own in-house developed and manufactured Xtreme Precision tourbillion movement. The question is, how do they make 101% sure that the products works perfectly and is fully reliable over a long period of time? The solution: the team will wear the couple of watches night and day for the next 6 months to iron out any last minor adjustments – in the shower, jogging, while sleeping, even during a relaxing round of golf!

Remainder of 2008 is spent obtaining permits and finding a suitable head office location – not an easy task in a city state of the size of a postage stamp…

March 26, 2009 – The official birth certificate of the Ateliers deMonaco is awarded and a new brand enters the world of haute horology! It wasn’t all smooth sailing though explains Robert; “Creating a company in Monaco really can be seen as a nightmare! All around the world, it usually takes between 48h and one week. But to avoid speculation based upon fiscal laws, it can easily take up to 9 months in Monaco.” Unperturbed, however, the team presses on and are rewarded for their efforts. The launch party with H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco happens in May 2009 and is a huge success.

After 4 years of tireless work and more than a dash of luck, Ateliers deMonaco is finally open for business.

H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco and Robert van Pappelendam.

Summer 2009 – The team sets a goal to produce around 5 to 10 tourbillon units per year. Soon, though it becomes apparent that this may be a little low. “Quickly,” remembers Robert, “we changed that to 20 units, but it was not enough though, as we registered even more orders on the very first year, which was way beyond our craziest expectations!”

September 2009 – First retail shop opened in Monte-Carlo. The challenge: determining the correct size of retailer network to enable it to work cohesively with a carefully planned production capability & capacity. The decision was made that for the production of high-end complications, regardless of the demand, Ateliers deMonaco would stick to its original plan and focus on quality first, and over time scale up to maximum 100 to 150 pieces per year as the company’s capabilities grew.

“Making a customer wait for their watch can be a very disappointing message to send, but diluting our quality just to make a few more watches is worse as it would kill the dream and brand promise that we set out to realize”, says Robert, explaining the logic behind the brand’s reasoning.

March 2010 – Baselworld – In the world of horology the stage does not get much bigger. This is the event that secures – or dissolves – your place as a credible player in the watch industry. There is no room for error, no time for mistakes, especially when you are launching an in-house developed Minute repeater, considered by many to be the most difficult of the watch complications.

But how will people react? And more importantly, will a small start-up from Monaco even get noticed among the 500 other watch brands? The numbers speak for themselves; “7 days, 2040 minutes of appointments and 100,700 visitors later, we somehow emerged still alive” says Robert with a smile.

April 2010: Successful conclusion of Year 1 and of a course a special celebration to acknowledge the official first anniversary of the brand. For Robert the high point of the event was the private meeting with H.S.H. Prince Albert II in which he received his very own Ateliers deMonaco watch.

The team present H.S.H. Prince Albert II with his very first Ateliers deMonaco timepiece.

The Final Word
When Ateliers deMonaco first entered the luxury watch scene we were, and still are, incredibly impressed with the brand’s attention to detail and overwhelming desire to innovate. In our humble opinions the future of this small, yet ambitious company is not only very bright, it is also very exciting, especially if Robert’s final words are anything to go by:

“We have a lot of innovation still to come in the next couple of years. So far, we have had a tremendous amount of fun, disappointment, anger, sense of achievement, feelings of victory, failure, and probably all other emotions known to mankind. Still the thought that we have the opportunity to realize our dream and leave a legacy, is a huge motivating factor. And having a lot of fun in the process is a great bonus!”

If you would like to find out more about Ateliers deMonaco you can visit their official website complete with company blog at: www.atelier-demonaco.com

En 2009, la planète horlogère a vécu une petite révolution. Et sur le rocher monégasque, ce fut presque un Big Bang : la création d’une marque horlogère indépendante appelée Ateliers…deMonaco.

Le lancement et la première année d’une nouvelle marque sont critiques à bien des égards. Toutes les questions d’image de marque, de retour sur investissement, de ventes, etc. qui sont importantes pour une grande maison, sont tout simplement vitales pour une marque qui se lance. La question qui se pose à elle n’est pas de devoir gérer des dettes ou un déficit, mais déjà d’assurer sa survie en année 2.

Pour comprendre tous les défis d’une première année, nous avons eu le plaisir de partager un moment avec Robert van Pappelendam, membre fondateur des Ateliers deMonaco.

From L – R: Robert van Pappelendam, Manuel da Silva Matos (engineer), Peter Stas and Pim Koeslag.

Anatomie d’un succès annoncé.

2004 – Robert van Pappelendam, Peter Stas et le Maître Horloger Pim Koeslag, tous trois futurs cofondateurs de la marque, se rencontrent chez Frédérique Constant. Premier défi : ce sont trois caractères très, très différents, mais complémentaires. En plus de leur passeport néerlandais, ils affichent un point commun : ils sont tous passionnés au dernier degré d’horlogerie ! Est-ce suffisant pour lancer une nouvelle marque ? Certainement pas. Mais Pim a un talent certain, doublé d’une intuition rare, dans la réalisation de mouvements innovants. Peter, quant à lui, a apprit à créer une société ex nihilo. Robert, enfin, a acquis ses galons comme dirigeant commercial et fondateur de marques. A eux trois, il y a de quoi aller plus avant.

Eté 2005 – L’équipe commence à réfléchir à un rêve un peu fou : créer de zéro une marque haut de gamme, qui serait l’héritage de notre génération. Selon Robert, l’un des co-fondateurs, « chaque génération cherche toujours à développer sa propre innovation qui sera transmise aux suivantes. Ce désir de transmission est profondément ancré dans la nature humaine, nous voulions créer notre propre héritage – au moins essayer ! ». Le défi : sachant que la copie de l’existant est rarement pérenne, l’équipe se donne un an pour trouver une idée, un style, une signature et une innovation. C’est là que naît l’esprit des Ateliers deMonaco.

Eté 2006 : Concrétisons ! L’équipe estime tenir un projet suffisamment abouti pour en faire un business viable. Le temps était venu de développer l’innovation, de créer une proposition tangible. « Si vous créez une marque de zéro, il vous faut une innovation sans précédent, qui génère à coup sûr l’étonnement. C’est à ce moment là que nous nous sommes rendus compte que nous foulions un terrain vierge », se souvient Robert.

Eté 2007 – Alors que d’importantes sommes avaient été engagées et que le projet avançait à grands pas, Robert se souvient que la question qui lui revenait le plus souvent était « Etes-vous brillants ou complètement dingues ? ». Probablement un peu de deux.

Mais il est temps à présent de trouver une domiciliation. La Suisse est le choix le plus rationnel pour la haute horlogerie, surtout en raison des liens existants avec Frédérique Constant. Mais l’équipe objecte qu’un nouveau concept appelle un nouveau territoire, et se met alors à dresser une liste de destinations possibles, « de la classieuse Londres jusqu’au Paris tendance, via Dubai, Singapour, ou la Chine ». En amateur d’art, Robert note que les peintres comme Matisse ou Picasso, les auteurs comme Checkov ou Cocteau, les philosophes comme Nietzsche ou les architectes comme Le Corbusier, ont tous un point commun : le sud de la France, la Riviera. Quand Robert croise cette donnée avec l’exigence d’un lieu inspirant et qui reflète le positionnement de la marque, Monaco est sortie en pôle position. « Monaco est une sorte de Hollywood qui mélange le style, l’argent, les stars et le luxe », analyse Robert. Prochain défi : implanter les Ateliers deMonaco…à Monaco !

Eté 2008 – Pim finalise le tout premier modèle, le Carré d’Or Grand Tourbillion XP-1, avec son propre mouvement maison à tourbillon, le Xtreme Precision. Le défi : garantir à 101% un mouvement d’une fiabilité irréprochable sur le long terme. Solution : l’équipe porte elle-même les premiers exemplaires, jour et nuit, pendant plus de six mois, afin de détecter les derniers ajustements nécessaires – dans la douche, durant le jogging, la nuit, et même durant une pause golf !

Automne 2008 est consacré à la recherche de bureaux pour les Ateliers – une tâche qui peut rapidement devenir un casse-tête dans une ville-état qui fait la taille d’un timbre poste… .

26 mars 2009 : certificat de naissance officiel des Ateliers deMonaco ! Robert se souvient : « Créer une société peut devenir un véritable cauchemar à Monaco. Partout dans le monde, cela prend entre 48h et une semaine. A Monaco, cela peut aller jusqu’à 9 mois ! Mais il faut les comprendre, ils veillent simplement à ce que leur régime fiscal ne soit pas la seule cause de domiciliation… ». La soirée d’inauguration avec S.A.S. le Prince Albert II de Monaco a lieu en mai. Après quatre ans, les Ateliers deMonaco sont enfin ouverts.

H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco and Robert van Pappelendam.

Été 2009 – L’équipe se fixe un objectif de 5 à 10 tourbillons produits par an. « Rapidement, se remémore Robert, nous avons produit 20 pièces, mais ce n’était toujours pas suffisant puisque nous avons enregistré encore plus la première année, au-delà de nos espérances les plus folles ! ».

Septembre 2009 – Le premier point de vente ouvre à Monte-Carlo. Le défi : adapter la taille du réseau de vente aux capacités et au potentiel de la production. Afin de garantir une qualité parfaite, la décision est prise, pour les années à venir, que la production de pièces à complications serait plafonnée aux alentours de 100 à 150 unités par an. « C’est très décevant pour un client de devoir attendre longtemps sa montre, mais faire des compromis sur la qualité juste pour augmenter notre qualité de production serait encore pire ; cela tuerait le rêve instantanément ainsi que la promesse de marque que nous avions faite », résume Robert.

Mars 2010 – Baselworld – Probablement, vu de l’extérieur, le signe manifeste que l’on devient – ou non – une marque qui compte dans le marché de l’horlogerie. C’était pour les Ateliers le lancement de la répétition minute, qui est la complication suprême en matière horlogère, autrement dit le moment à ne pas manquer. « 7 jours, 2040 minutes de rendez et 100.700 visiteurs plus tard, nous étions toujours vivants ! », sourit Robert.

Avril 2010: conclusion de l’Année 1 – premier anniversaire officiel de la marque. Son point d’orgue est le rendez-vous privé avec S.A.S. le Prince Albert II de Monaco, au cours duquel les Ateliers deMonaco lui remettent personnellement son premier modèle.

The team present H.S.H. Prince Albert II with his very first Ateliers deMonaco timepiece.

Et Robert de conclure : « Nous avons encore de multiples innovations prévues dans les années à venir. Jusqu’à présent, nous avons surtout eu du plaisir, des déceptions, de la colère, de la satisfaction du travail bien fait, les sentiments de victoire, d’échec, et probablement encore la quasi-totalité de la palette de sentiments humains ! La possibilité que nous avons de réaliser notre rêve et de laisser notre empreinte dans le monde horloger est pour nous une énorme motivation. Le fait que nous y prenions autant de plaisir, c’est du bonus ! » .