We all know what a Graham watch looks like, right? They’re big, bold and aggressive and completely unrepentant about it. As a result you, and everyone else around you definitely knows when you’re wearing one, they simply have a wrist presence that is undeniable.
It’s for these same very reasons however that you don’t often hear words like ‘delicate’ and ‘finesse’ associated with the brand. That’s not a bad thing by any stretch, after all the majority of their models have been purposely designed to be overtly masculine. Every now and then though, the brand unveils something truly surprising that serves as a gentle reminder that their watchmaking heritage stems back more than 300 years and that they, as a company, are a little more multifaceted than they are perhaps given credit for.
Case in point: the newly released limited edition Graham GEO.Graham The Moon.
Fly Me To The Moon
The original Graham – English master watchmaker George Graham born 1673 – was an avid stargazer, and in particular had an ongoing fascination with the Moon. There he found both solace and inspiration as he worked through the many mechanical challenges a watchmaker must face on a daily basis. With this latest creation his modern day namesake has paid homage to his love of all things celestial. And what a fitting tribute it is!
The GEO.Graham combines a flying tourbillon with a retrograde moon-phase complication that has been designed to be accurate for the next 122 years, at the end of which time a single push on the corrector will ensure accuracy for a further 122 years and so on. It’s trajectory tracks the exact cycle of the Moon’s synodic period, which is 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.9 seconds. At the end of each cycle it flies back to its starting point to begin the mesmerizing journey anew.
Given the size and delicacy of the Moon indicator, a double absorber system was developed exclusively for GRAHAM by Christophe Claret in Le Locle to attenuate the retrograde fall and alleviate any risk of damage to the lunar disc as it completes its journey home.
Building on the astrological theme, the dial side of the movement has been coated in a gorgeous dark blue to represent the night sky and is adorned with a series of constellations, represented by 45 individual diamonds totaling 0.24 cts. As you can see in the above picture the constellations include Camelopardalis, Perseus, Cassiopeia, Ursa Major, Ursa Minor and at the center becoming the North Star’s position. Around the outside of the dial the 18K pink gold case has been crowned with a Milky Way sapphire painted bezel, representing unique view of the universe as seen through a refracting telescope.
At 46mm in diameter the GEO.Graham Moon is certainly no shrinking violet but again, with a piece this exquisite why would you ever want to hide it away under your cuff? Presented on a blue alligator leather strap with matching pink gold pin buckle the manually wound flying tourbillon movement has a healthy power reserve of 96 hours and can be viewed in all its finery through the exhibition case-back.
The version shown here is a limited edition of 10 pieces and will retail for US$280,000. There are a further two variations, one with diamonds on the bezel and one with blue sapphires on the bezel, both of which are limited to just 5 pieces each and both of which will retail for US$385,000.
The Final Word
I have to say I am really taken with both the idea and the execution of this timepiece. The moon-phase complication is beautifully detailed and offers the perfect counter-balance for the manual flying tourbillon, creating a dial that has both depth and real aesthetic appeal. However, from a more practical sense the large size of the case and the overt use of diamonds make this more of a display piece for me as opposed to one I could see myself wearing even semi-regularly.
Of course if you’ve been racking your brains trying to think what piece to wear at that fancy gala at the Planetarium – and your Sidérale Scafusia is away at IWC for a service – then this may just be the piece for you!
To help you make your decision please visit the official Graham website: www.graham-london.com
Category: Watch Reviews