H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar – Simplistic Sophistication
I am sure that it will come to the surprise of nobody that there are a lot of watch shops in Geneva. The rise of the “Brand” has led to the opening of numerous single-brand dedicated boutiques by all of the major manufacturers and has also allowed larger independents to have a dedicated space; an organized trip to the F.P. Journe shop anyone?
For those interested in the smaller independent watch-makers, however, who don’t quite have the budget to match their larger counterparts, there is only one multi-brand store, l’Heure Asch.
On the “Grand Rue” of Geneva’s old town and about a third the way up the steep cobbled street, can be found the very smart, if slightly scary, shop of Denis Asch filled with the items he is passionate about. I have walked past the shop on many occasions, but never had the opportunity to actually spend some time; probably best known for being the only Gruebel Forsey reseller in Geneva, l’Heure Asch does have a range of products which are a lot more affordable for a lot more people.
For my visit in early July Denis Asch and his team had a special expo from H. Moser & Cie, the small and slightly exclusive manufacturer from Shaffhausen in northern Switzerland. The designs are decidedly classical, no skeleton dials and tourbillions here; what we have are beautifully made watches at very reasonable prices. Specifically the Perpetual Calendar that first caught his eye back in 2005.
At first glance the dial appears to be very straight-forward and largely this is true and is the reason why it scores highly for readability. But with a second look you notice a third hand on the centre column, this indicates the month using the baton markers around the edge. Opposite the Power Reserve, rated at “at least 7 days” there is a date window, large and clear and a single disc rather than the dual disc common in large window dates today.
Unusually for a Perpetual Calendar, the date and time can be set both forward and backwards without damage thanks to a patented “Double Pull Crown” patented mechanism. While the leap year is set by a button on the side of the case at 9 o’clock and indicated on the movement visible through the Sapphire case back. The sapphire has the nice but regrettably uncommon attribute of being convex, this allows the watch to sit much more closely and securely than a “flat back” especially for those with a smaller wrist.
The cases are available in a range of Gold options and Platinum for the slightly flash and an assortment of dials, black probably being my favorite. Prices are competitive starting at around 12,000CHF for an uncomplicated watch and going up from there.
Considering the build quality this seems reasonable, but it caters to the more reserved client, this is not something likely to be purchased by the Richard Mille fan. In these financially challenging times in which “flash” bankers are trying to keep a low profile, this would be just the sort of thing.
The Final Word
Clean lines, excellent quality and simple practicality are the hallmarks of the exceptional timepieces from H. Moser & Cie. If you were to choose to invest in one of their timepieces, such as the perpetual calendar, you can be sure that you will buying a timepiece that will not only look great but will also be impeccably serve the purposes for which it was designed.
One word of caution though; this “middle” part of the market is becoming more and more competitive, a lot of good makers are making great watches, the discerning purchaser has never had so much choice and differentiating product offerings is ever more challenging. If you are in this market at this price point it may take some time for you to make your mind up, but at least you will have tried a lot of different watches along the way and in the end gotten yourself a great watch.
To find out more information about H. Moser & Cie including stockists check out their official website: www.h-moser.com
Category: New This Week, Watch Reviews
Yeah, its a pretty good piece for sure. I dont like the script — the brand signature. Its self consciously “elite”. A mis step in another wise very elegant watch.