SIHH 2010: A Day In Review
New Release: IWC Portugese Yacht Club Chronograph
Back at SIHH 2010 again today and looking forward to the many exciting discoveries that still await. It promises to be a rewarding day and so without any further delay, let’s get into it! First up is the classically understated International Watch Company.
IWC
This year’s theme – there’s a different one every year – is Sea Navigation. The presentation room is decorated as a seascape, with an evening sky as the stars come out. Regrettably the seats are uncomfortable textured plastic and the room is too small for the number of Press that has turned up. This seems to be a recurring theme this week.
The presentation is focused on the “Portuguese” range and the new models that complement those already released. I think the most successful model is the Yacht Club Chronograph. The contrast between the black face and the red sweep seconds is excellent and even better “in the flesh”. It’s best to steer clear of the rose gold version though, as in my opinion the mixture of colors doesn’t really work – go for the white gold version.
My favorite though is the Portuguese Minute Repeater. Originally released in 2009,it has had a bit of a facelift: at 44mm it is slightly bigger, and the small seconds has moved to the 6 o’clock position, but it retains what I think is the nicest chime of any repeater made today. With the silver dial, this time I would go with the rose gold version over the platinum.
Pure Elegance: IWC Portuguese Minute Repeater
Both watches are limited to 500 pieces in each metal. After a couple of lean years for IWC models these additions are a welcome return to form.
Piaget
Piaget made headlines late last year when the company rented the most expensive real estate in the UK, taking part of the existing Bulgari store at 169 New Bond Street.
It seemed like it was about time to check them out.
Of course Piaget is rightly famous for its jewelry, but the big focus of the presentation was its Altiplano Automatic ultra-thin watches.
Absolute Refinement: The Piaget Altiplano Automatic
The dial is aggressively plain, with baton markers for the numbers – two batons at the quarters and single batons for the rest – with small seconds at the 5 o’clock position. But it is the movement that is astounding: the new Piaget Calibre 1208P is only 2.35mm thick, with the automatic micro-rotor on board the movement in 22K gold.
The case is scarcely much thicker at 5.25mm, but it does have a sizeable 43mm diameter, so although it’s based on a 1960s design it has a very modern appearance.
This looks destined to become a classic.
Van-Cleef and Arpels
A presentation from VC&A is not everybody’s idea of fun, but personally it is one of my favorite appointments of the week. Being male and middle-aged I doubt that I am their target audience, unless I am looking to buy a present for my wife!
The Charms range is a little bit smaller this year, but that’s pretty much the only difference. The enamel dials with butterfly motifs and a special series showing California landscapes are fantastic pieces of work, but they weren’t the stars of the show.
The really fantastic model is “Le Pont des Amoureux”; it evokes a late-night meeting between two lovers on a bridge in Paris. The lovers are seen in silhouette, crafted in white enamel against a dark blue ground. They start at opposite ends of the bridge, the lady on the left with her umbrella indicating the hours and the gentleman on the right the minutes.
Using a Jaeger La Coultre retrograde movement the lovers gradually move towards each other until they meet at midnight.
Poetic Complications: Van Cleef & Arpels Pon des Amoureux
This is an exquisite piece of workmanship and absolutely beautiful – one of these for my wife’s birthday would certainly make her very happy.
The Final Word
While the remnants of the economic crisis remain, the outlook at this year’s SIHH was a much more positive, prices remain competitive and ranges more moderate than ultra-high end. SIHH remains a well run, well attended and interesting exhibition, roll on next year, but first, Basel!
Category: Basel World & SIHH
Great stuff.
Le Pont des Amoureux is gorgeous! What a beautiful watch; a little whimsical but stilll sophisticated! Love it!
I could not agree more Anne, it really is something special without being over the top!