Posts Tagged ‘black’
Weird Watch Wednesday: Chronoswiss Grand Opus DLC
This week’s piece provides not only a visual feast for the eyes but, unlike many of the other watches that feature in this category, it is also quite wearable. The latest evolution of the well-regarded Grand Opus chronograph series, created by Swiss watch maker Chronoswiss, this new piece effectively charters this traditionally conservative brand into new, darker territory.
Hence the name: Black Magic.
A New Look For An Old Favorite
Presented at this year’s Basel World, this new piece was an instant hit with us. For a start it looks sensational, with the selective use of color providing just the right level of contrast on the dial and ensuring that legibility isn’t sacrificed in the name of aesthetic appeal.
Well, as least as much as it is possible to do with a skeleton dial, the designs of which nearly always present issues with readability.
Still, if you are in the market for a skeleton dial you really cannot go past Chronoswiss when it comes to main-stream producers. They produce arguably some of the best skeleton dials available in the price range they compete in and this has been acknowledged previously with awards and the like. The attention to detail is impeccable and the finished result really is quite amazing.
The original Grand Opus in Rose Gold
Crossing Over To The Dark Side
In order to create and cross over to the “dark side” with these timepieces, Chronoswiss employed an innovative coating that goes by the name Dianoir®. Whilst this is a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating, what sets the Black Magic apart is that unlike many other brands which simply use DLC coatings that are already commercially available, Chronoswiss invested in and developed its own original, patented process.
Using a pulsating ray of light, a plasma is created in a vacuum environment that is aimed at the substrate to be coated. Thus, a much higher amount of diamond is created that produces more than double the hardness of the coating, which you will really appreciate the first time you drop it.
Not only is the DLC casing incredibly robust, however, it is also very aesthetically pleasing both in the look and the feel. Moreover, it completely changes the appearance of this classic model, taking it from a vintage motor car to mean machine ready for action. It looks aggressive without being overpowering and provides a totally new perspective into the inside of the solid 39-part black case for the observer.
As you would expect the model still maintains the classic Chronoswiss characteristics, such as a fluted screw-down bezel, screw-down polished case back in addition to a solid metal ognion-style crown and screw-in lugs with patented Autobloc System. The hands are painted bright red and/or luminous white.
As a guide for pricing, the original Grand Opus Chronograph in red gold is available for $19,500, so I would expect this to come in at probably just a little under that.
The Final Word
Undeniably DLC coatings and black-out watches are in high-fashion at the moment in the luxury watch industry and so it comes as no surprise really that Chronoswiss have released this new Black Magic model. What really appeals to us, however, is how this coating has really changed the whole look and feel, and as a result the personality, of this previously classical timepiece.
The Black Magic is edgy and cool, whilst still retaining an exceptionally high-level of craftsmanship and finishing which you would expect in a much more expensive watch. It certainly won’t suit everyone’s tastes but we applaud the brand for making, what is for them, a bold move in a new direction.
2 Great Comments. Leave one too. | Filed under New This Week, Wow Watch Wednesday
New Ball Watch Engineer Hydrocarbon – Tool Watches As They Should Be
If you’re looking for a timepiece that is tough and hard-wearing yet at the same time still refined enough for the boardroom and reasonably priced, perhaps its time you consider the Engineer Hydrocarbon collection from American-owned Swiss watchmaker Ball Watch Co. Given a complete makeover ahead of its up-and-coming debut at Basel World this year, the new look collection promises a subtle blend of functionality and form, with neither suffering for the benefit of the other.
The Company
Over the last century, Ball has carved out a well-respected reputation for making robust and reliable tool watches. These timepieces have been designed to be worn in any and all conditions, whilst still maintaining the highest standards of accuracy and legibility possible. According to the brand the Engineer Hydrocarbon collection is the ultimate personification of this identity, representing the application of all their technological expertise, knowledge of materials and the readability standards inherited from the brand’s founder, Webster C. Ball who established the company back in 1891.
The Engineer Hydrocarbon Collection
Several components in the new collection have been modified and improved, including the rotating bezel. As one would expect it retains its unidirectional function with its notch calibrated at 30 seconds, however, it has been made slightly wider and flatter making it much easier to manipulate even when wearing gloves. Ensuring easy reading, even at night, the Hydrocarbon bezel is equipped with a H3 marker inserted into a protective container at 12 o’clock. Further, the graduation from 0 to 14, along with the digits 15, 30 and 45 all have very powerful luminescent paint emitting a blue glow.
The dial is simple and uncluttered, ensuring the wearer only has access to the information that is actually required in a format that is very easy to read. Just from looking at the clean lines and intelligent use of contrasting colors it is obvious that the high legibility is almost guaranteed in any situation. Be it under water or even in outer-space! Brand ambassador Brian Binnie, a former US Navy pilot and astronaut, certainly seems to think so. It was this watch that he chose to strap to his wrist on a recent ‘space-walk’.
However, legibility is nothing without accuracy. So to make sure that the time you are reading with ease is always correct, these timepieces are powered by a chronometer-certified ETA 2836 movement, with day and date calendar, delivering extreme precision.
Keeping It In Place
Sometimes the importance of a top-quality bracelet and clasp can be overlooked in favor of case design and functionality. However, for a watch that has been created to go anywhere you go, keeping it attached firmly to your wrist is of the utmost importance.
In recognition of this, the innovative folks over at Ball have developed their very own, patented triple folding clasp and extension. To improve the strength and durability of this clasp, it is machined from a single block of 316L stainless steel. Ensuring optimum comfort and fit, the clasp’s balance is perfect and the unfolding components are spread evenly under their cover; and a 22-millimeter extension system has been added on both sides of the bracelet so that the watch can be worn over sports gear. Opening and closing operations can be performed single handed. The clasp operates with a robust locking mechanism enabling it to withstand extreme traction forces when in the closed position.
No word on pricing yet but expect it to be well under US$10,000.
The Final Word
Yet another well-designed, highly functional timepiece from American owned Ball Watches. The company’s rich history in the rail industry has certainly placed them well in terms of making pieces that are reliable, accurate and above all highly legible. This is a watch that will provide a lifetime of loyal service without breaking the bank, whilst still being versatile enough to be worn for pretty much all occasions.
Ball make tool watches as they should be, and we think that’s a good thing.
Technical Specifications
Model Number: DM2036-SCAJ-BK
Movement: Automatic ETA 2836-2, COSC certified chronometer
Functions: Hours, minutes, sweep seconds, day and date
29 micro gas tubes on hour, minute, second hands
and dial for night reading capability
Case: Stainless steel case with luminous unidirectional rotating bezel
Diameter 41.5 mm, Height 16.1 mm
4mm anti-refl ective sapphire crystal
Patented crown protection system
Water-resistant to 333 m
Antimagnetic to 12,000 A/m
Shock-resistant – withstands 7,500 Gs shock test
Band: Tapered stainless steel bracelet, with patented deployant buckle
& extension system
Weird Watch Wednesday: BR 01-92 Radar
Bell & Ross is starting to become a bit of a favorite when it comes to Weird Watch Wednesdays. A couple of weeks ago we told you about the BR01-94 Carbon Fiber Chronograph, made from a single block of carbon fibre. This week we’re going even more stealth, if that’s possible! Designed for the hardcore naval and military enthusiasts out there, the aptly named BR 01-92 Radar looks like exactly that. A Radar.
Breaking With Convention
I really have to hand it to the creative guys over at Bell & Ross, they never seem to run out of ideas when it comes to ‘re-imagining’ their classic lines. First shown at Basel World 2009, the Radar model uses the standard black BR01 case and a very clever dial design to create a very cool and distinctive looking watch.
The unique circular radar display uses colored radial lines, thus giving the illusion that the rotating hour and minute hands are scanning for blips. Based on the above picture I am guessing that the inner ring is the seconds indicator, the middle ring is minutes and the outer ring is the hours, however, I am not 100% sure.
I have to say I really like the selection of bright colors which provide a stunning contrast against the darkness of the dial and case, although it is not overbearing in any way.
The BR01-92 Radar is limited to a production of only 500 pieces worldwide.
The Final Word
I have to say this is probably one of the coolest variations of the classic BR01-92 model I’ve seen so far. Admittedly the watch is quite unconventional and it will probably take a little time to get used to reading the time but it is definitely eye-catching and I imagine mesmerizing to watch in action.
Maybe not an every day watch but definitely worth a second look!
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