Posts Tagged ‘black’
Ernst Benz Great Circle Chronoscope Instrument Series Limited Edition
A few months ago Swiss engineer and inventor Ernst Benz announced the introduction of four new limited edition models in the Great Circle Chronoscope Instrument Series. Big and bold the new dial and set of hands has been designed to be reminiscent of the original precision aircraft instrumentation produced by Ernst Benz himself back in the 1960s and 70s. Although the original concept is over thirty years old, the end result is actually quite appealing.
Big And Beautiful
Ernst Benz is known for making big watches and this new release is no exception. Available only in their trademark 47mm size these watches have been designed to be easy to read, as you would expect from a purpose built aviation watch. You also have the choice of two different dials; matte black as featured in the original aircraft version and designed primarily for legibility or alternatively a carbon fibre mesh finish.
The numerals and hands are finished in either white or orange and are coated with luminescent for legibility. The latter color has special significance as or orange is used specifically in aviation for attention. The hands were designed to be exactly like the needles of the gauges of Benz’s original aircraft instruments, and for this release, custom black calendar disks were produced to complement the finish of the dial printed in corresponding colors to match either the white or orange numerals.
As is all the rage at the moment, especially with oversized pilots watches, the case has received the black PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) treatment to ensure it is non-reflective and to further resemble the finish of an aircraft cockpit panel.
Like all Ernst Benz watches this new line has been designed and manufactured in Switzerland. The pieces feature an exhibition back so that you can view the custom rotor for the movement. This new signature EB rotor has been cut out with the EB symbol flagged by wings so as to give the appearance that the rotor is almost flying as it spins. For this series, the rotor has been coated in black PVD to match the finish of the case.
The Final Word
I love the design of these new limited edition pieces from Ernst Benz but the oversized 47mm dial means they are simply impractical for every day wear, at least for most people. Having said that the simple and uncluttered dials of these stunning pieces will make them very appealing to professional pilots and other professionals who require a hard-wearing watch that is highly legible, even under the most stressful conditions.
We can only hope that Ernst Benz decides to release a reduced size model for us earthly bound mortals. 42mm would suit me just fine!
What do you think? Leave a comment. | Filed under Watch Reviews
Glashütte Senator Perpetual Calendar – Black Ceramic
At Baselworld this year my favourite German brand, Glashütte Original, introduced a stunningly simplistic variation of the Senator Perpetual Calendar. Clean, precise and subtle this is German engineering at its best. The watch is practical and sensible and yet at the same time visually alluring. There is no particular stand-out feature on the dial but still I can’t seem to drag my attention away from it! This is the beauty of a quality German watch, no fancy bells and whistles, just exceptional craftmanship.
Simplified Detail
In typical German style the watch is detailed and yet at the same time precise. What other watchmaker can tell you the time, day, date, month, moon phase and indication of a leap year all on the same dial without even looking remotely cluttered!?
Everything on the dial has its place and all information is displayed in the most simplistic way possible and in a font size that can easily read. The sensible color scheme also helps immensely in this area. The white contrasts well against the black for clear and legible reading and the subtle red highlight provides just enough color to draw the eye.
There is no question that this is a very subdued looking piece, however, at the same time the matt black ceramic case gives it a modern appearance, successfully combining tradition and innovation. The leap year display with jumping indicator located at 12 o’clock indicates a leap year when its red indicator points to the 4.
Quality Engineering
The 42 mm ceramic case houses an automatic manufacture Caliber 100-07, with a rather impressive power reserve of more than 55 hours (+/- 10%). This movement also features a unique reset mechanism that allows for easy synchronization of the second hand with a time standard.
Unlike other reset mechanisms, the second hand here is neither connected to the winding stem nor the crown. Therefore, when the crown is pulled out the balance remains in oscillation and the movement continues to run. This significantly reduces material stress consequently prolonging the life of the movement.
To activate the reset mechanism you press a separate button on the side of the case at 8 o’clock (cannot be seen in the photo above). The rotor winds in both directions, providing constant power to the movement.
Finishing off this stunning tribute to Geman know-how is a scratch-resistant black calfskin strap with tonal stitching and a ceramic buckle.
The Final Word
As I mentioned at the start of the article Glashütte Original is pretty much my favorite German watch brand so I am inclined to be quite biased in this regard. Having said that, this timepiece and its incredible craftmanship literally speaks for itself. Smooth, clean lines, uncluttered dial and yet at the same time providing an incredibly detailed level of information.
This is German ingenuity at its best.
Fighting Fakes: Two-Part Special
The global spread of counterfeit watches is an issue that plagues watchmakers, retailers, enthusiasts and everyday consumers alike. Given the sheer magnitude of fakes flooding the markets the best defence available to protect yourself is knowledge. In this two-part special I will explore in detail what constitutes a counterfeit, how its effecting the industry and what’s been done about it. In part two I will provide some valuable hints and tips on how to steer clear of imitators.
What Are They?
Per Wikipedia, a counterfeit watch is an illegal copy of an authentic watch bearing the name of its brand and according to estimates by the Swiss Customs Service, there are some 30 to 40 million counterfeit watches put into circulation each year. The profitability of this black market industry is huge and seemingly endless, with one estimate putting the profit margin at $10 per dollar invested, about equal to profits of the illicit drug trade (and well below the profits of legitimate watch makers). This is truly a global business with numerous links to organised crime and a distribution network to die for!
Where Do They Come From?
So who’s making all these fakes? Swiss Customs estimates that 40% of counterfeit watches come from China, but counterfeits are produced elsewhere, even in the USA. You may remember the story from a few years ago now of authorities arresting a Florida woman for operating a counterfeit watch business. Her rented storage unit held almost 2,000 brand-name fake watches, with a total estimated retail value of $8.5 million. This is one of literally thousands of stories just like it and only serves to illustrate how wide-spread this issue has become.
The scary thing though is that in many countries possessing such a watch is not illegal. Even in Switzerland, where somewhat surprisingly, private persons are allowed to keep one counterfeit watch per person at the most, provided they import it personally into Switzerland. The maker and sellers of the replicas are usually in violation of the legal copyrights on the original manufacturer’s copyrights and trademarks, however, this rarely gives the latter much comfort.
What’s Been Done About It?
Why don’t the big brands do something about it I hear you ask? Well the fact is they do, however, with limited to no success. As with any facet of organised crime, tracing the problem back to the source is incredibly difficult, nigh impossible! Further to this, distribution of counterfeit watches is so widely spread now that it is simply pointless trying to address it without international co-operation between the appropriate authorities. This aspect is improving, however, it is a long way of being at the level required.
Another argument often put forth is that anyone who wants a $1,000 to $20,000+ watch and will settle for a $100 fake of it was not a serious buyer. They either would never have bought the real thing, or will toy with the fake and eventually return to their original desire and buy a real one after the brand-name image makes them feel good, but the fake itself disappoints. So while these products do infringe on the name brands, they don’t really hurt sales, therefore manufacturers do not have a financial incentive to aggressively pursue them. They tend to do enough that they can prove in any court cases that do arise that they have enforced their trademarks. But more than that is profitless to them.
There is some merit to this argument, however, consider this: globally, counterfeit watches are estimated to cost the Swiss watch industry more than $600 million per year. The claim that there is no harm done to sales is simply not true, as we all have seen or heard of countless examples where people will settle for a fake for any number of reasons, lack of education, taste, etc.
The Final Word
In my opinion, the big brands need to do more. No so much in pursuing the purveyors of these cheap imitations, but in educating and reminding consumers why they choose (have chosen) to buy a luxury watch in the first place. I’m fairly certain that no one here has bought a luxury watch solely because of the brand name or the way it looked. Consumers demand quality and they need to know they are going to get it. Watchmakers and retailers alike should be aware of this and act accordingly. Too often the significance of this is overlooked and can seriously impede the whole buying experience.
Make sure you tune in tomorrow for Part.2 on avoiding purchasing a fake watch.
New Omega Planet Ocean Jewelry Collection
Do yourself a favor. Next time you walk past an Omega boutique or an Authorized Dealer of Omega watches make sure you stop in to check out the new Planet Ocean Jewelry range, it is definitely worth a look. Don’t just take my word for it though, actress Nicole Kidman, stunning ambassador for Omega watches, was reportedly so captivated by the new Seamaster Planet Ocean Jewelry chronograph when wearing it for a recent shoot that she didn’t want to take it off afterwards.
Planet Ocean Jewelry Collection
This latest variation of Omega’s famed Planet Ocean certainly won’t suit everyone’s tastes but they are undeniably stunning timepieces. When it was first launched in 2004 the Planet Ocean was featured in steel with the trademark orange bezel that when on to set a color trend for sports watches that still persists. In a radical departure from this original design, the bezel has been luxuriantly and painstakingly set with diamonds to create a breathtaking result worthy of the best jewelry watches in the world.
His and Hers’ Models
It may come as a surprise to learn that this watch has been designed without either sex specifically in mind. That’s right, these watches have been designed to be worn by either men or women. At first I had some trouble reconciling with this fact but the more I look at this watch the more I realize that it is truly uni-sex.
Like the original version the Planet Ocean is available in either 42mm – a suitable size for the current trend of women wearing oversized watches – or a more masculine 45.5mm. The neutral black overtones ensure it does not favor one gender over the other and lend a sense of style and sophistication to the piece. In addition it is becoming increasingly popular for men to wear diamond watches, especially in Asia and the Middle East.
Aesthetically and Technically Brilliant
There are two models, both powered by Omega’s legendary Co-Axial escapement, self-winding COSC certified movements. Both feature brushed stainless steel cases and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal that is anti-reflective on both sides. Like the original the dials are lacquered black with applied Arabic numerals. They feature the Omega name and logo and indexes and hands coated with white Super-LumiNova. The integrated black alligator strap is fitted with a polished stainless steel fold-over clasp.
The chronograph (pictured above) at 45.5 mm maintains its sporty appeal despite the 45 sizeable diamonds totaling 2.65 carats adorning its bezel. It has a small seconds counter at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute recorder at 3 and a 12-hour recorder at 6, with a small date window at 4:30.
If you prefer a cleaner look there is the sleek and elegant chronometer which also comes in 45.5 mm or 42 mm diameters, the latter with 45 slightly smaller diamonds totalling 1.73 carats. All models have a black triangular dive minute marker with white Super-LumiNova dot, at 12 o’clock.
The Final Word
Omega’s Planet Ocean series has been renowned for setting trends since it first launched back in 2004. This latest variation, whilst far more unique, will be no exception. The brand has successfully married elegance with sport and the result is a stunning series of timepieces. Having said that, in my opinion very few people will be able to successfully pull this watch off.
Fortunately, Nicole Kidman happens to be one of them.
Ulysse Nardin Diver Perpetual Limited Edition: The Best Of Both Worlds
As regular visitors to the site will know I am currently having an enduring love affair with dive watches. For the most part dive watches are completely impractical for every day use due to their excessively oversized dials designed for legibility under water first and foremost and aesthetics second. However, I think I may have just found an excellent half-way point. Enter the Ulysse Nardin Diver Perpetual Limited Edition.
The Best Of Both Worlds
The new Diver Perpetual Limited Edition combines the strong aesthetic and technical elements from the Marine and Perpetual collections to effectively bring you the best of both worlds. The titanium case is big enough at 45mm to be viewed easily under water but still manageable with a suit and tie, although admittedly it would be a touch on the big side.
The black carbon fibre structured dial is contrasted sensationally with orange luminous indexes and hands which work to complement the turning bezel with its matching orange inlay. Although the orange is quite bright as you would expect from a dive watch, it is suitably muted by the predominant black overtones of the watch. Fitted with an exhibition case back the owner is afforded a prime view of the movement complete with 22ct gold rotor.
Perpetually Revolutionary
When it was first introduced into the market the Ulysse Nardin Perpetual represented a revolutionary accomplishment in the history of watch making – the first Perpetual Calendar adjustable back and forwards from a single crown. This means that all adjustments from the minute hand to the year indicator are synchronized. A few rotations of the crown will result in the calendar displays moving forwards or backwards one or more days, a few months or even several years. At the end of the month the date display automatically displays the first of the next month, while the month disc rotates as well.
The Final Word
With a water resistance of only 300m we can safely assume that this watch is more of a show pony than a serious dive watch. However, with the Diver Perpetual Limited Edition Ulysse Nardin has effectively created an everday sports watch which features unparalleled high complication functionality. Sadly it is limited to only 500 pieces, so don’t expect to see this piece down at your local beach anytime soon.
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- Nick Orloff: Beautiful piece, regrettably a little (?) out of my price range. I’d love to...
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Stay tuned ! - Jack: Looks like a really nice watch for the price!