Finland has long been known for its contributions to industrial design and handicrafts, and indeed their architecture is famous around the world (in the right circles anyway), but watch-making? Not quite. In fact, historically speaking the only notable time-telling devices Finland has been responsible for creating have come attached to Nokia cell-phones. That was until Stepan Sarpaneva returned to his country of birth after spending several years studying and working in Switzerland for companies like Piaget, Parmigiani, Vianney Halter and Christophe Claret.

With his latest creation, the Sarpaneva Korona K0, Stepan shows us once again that there is more than one country in the EU capable of producing exceptional, high quality and above all, original timepieces.

A Different Perspective
One of the great things about Stepan is that he is not Swiss and so his reference points and design influences are completely different. Don’t get us wrong, we are absolutely enamoured with Swiss made watches and Swiss watch-makers (heck, we’ve pretty much built a website dedicated to spreading their message)  but the simple fact is that this means that his bold creations are often unlike any of the other pieces you regularly see gracing these very pages. This does not necessarily mean they are better or worse, just simply that they are different.

The Korona K0 is no exception. Even at first glance it appears at once familiar and yet simulataneously so unlike anything you’ve seen before. The design is daring and bold but at the same time evenly tempered, in typical Finnish fashion. Still, understated or not, the exceptional quality and craftsmanship Sarpaneva is so well known for is obvious in every aspect of this new timepiece.

© Guy Lucas De Peslouan

The trade-mark spider-web like black diamond coated stainless steel dial features Superluminova indexes and the 46mm case is crafted from Grade 2 Titanium and rated to 200m water resistance with a subdued matte finish that only serves to further enhance the subtle use of color on the inner-rotating bezel.

Even just the shape of the case itself is different enough to draw your attention without being offensive and gives off a decidedly rugged, sporty vibe complemented by the rubber strap. Yet, at the same time you get the distinct impression that it would look just as at home in the board room as it would on the sports field.

What really makes this piece special though is the concept of integration. You see, Stepan has been clever enough to modify the mainplate in the Soprod A10 calibre automatic movement to incorporate the function of rotating the internal bezel. Whereas as most watches with internal rotating bezels require two crowns (one to set the time and the other to rotate the bezel) the stainless steel, diamond coated Imperial Blue timer ring on this piece is manually adjustable by moving the bajonette screw-down crown to the first position.

Very practical but also very cool.

No word on pricing as yet with availability scheduled to be sometime in 2011.

© Guy Lucas De Peslouan

The Final Word
Sometimes different can be very bad, and sometimes it can be very good. To date Stepan Sarpaneva’s unique creations have always belonged to the second category and judging by the new Korona K0 he intends to continue this trend. We can’t help but be impressed by his bold design choices and clever integration of functionality, producing timepieces that are both highly attractive and at the same time extremely practical.

Then again, he is from Finland.

To find out more visit the official website – www.sarpanevawatches.com

As an industry observer it is always enjoyable to see a once strong brand surge back on the scene after a period of relative inactivity. Corum is such a brand, seeming almost dormant for a while and then out of nowhere surprising us (quite pleasantly we might say) in 2009, demanding our attention with the launch of their second in-house movement and a number of novelties, including variations of the very unique Ti-Bridge series.

In 2010 the brand has continued to build on this momentum introducing two new Golden Bridge pieces as well as a special edition deep sea diving watch, the Admiral’s Cup Deep Hull 48, which we have to say is absolutely superb.

Still, those familiar with the brand know to expect nothing less.

A Brief History
For those of you not so well acquainted with Corum, it’s important to know a little of their history to truly appreciate the brand’s most admired characteristics. Founded in 1955 in the spiritual home of watch-making, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Corum was created by a young and talented watch-maker by the name of Rene Bannwart. After having worked for several other prestigious brands he decided it was time for him to establish his own identity as a watch-maker. To do this he enlisted the help of his uncle, Gaston Ries and together the two set about building a brand that was unlike any other.

The goal was simple, Corum wanted to be positioned at the forefront of Swiss watch-making, pioneering new concepts in design and expression. Perhaps the burning ambition the two men shared is best illustrated by the brand’s emblem, a key pointing skywards. Not only is this indicative of the brand’s pioneering and innovative spirit, but also their desire to conquer new territories and quite simply put, become the masters of time.

Yet, it wasn’t until 1966 when Jean-Rene Bannwart, Rene’s son, joined the company that the brand’s identity as we know it today was truly established. He is credited with creating the models which were to become Corum’s trademark, especially the topic of today’s post and arguably Corum’s most recognised series, the Admiral Cup.

Many years later highly successful entrepreneur and philanthropist Severin Wunderman purchased the Corum brand and when questioned about his plans for the future, he replied;

“Making watches that meet the criteria of savoir faire and aesthetics with the daring approach that has always characterized Corum.”

And certainly it would seem that he has achieved that goal. Today Corum has grown from small private label watch factory into an internationally acclaimed brand, infamous for its unique sense of style.

Which brings us to the focus of this article.

The Admiral’s Cup Deep Hull 48
2010 marks the 50^th anniversary of the birth of Corum’s yacht-inspired Admiral’s Cup series and so to celebrate this special occasion the brand unveiled a special limited edition model designed for the requirements of deep-sea diving. Aptly named the Deep Hull 48, this new piece will be produced in a limited series of two versions – one in titanium, and the other in black PVD titanium.

Without a doubt the new Deep Hull is a striking watch, not least of all thanks to its imposing 48mm diameter. Yet its bold style is also one of its most attractive qualities. This is distinctly a Corum timepiece, the trademark masculinity of the Admiral Cup design is unmistakable and it somehow manages the neat feat of being unique without appearing too unusual or over the top.

From a practical point of the view the Deep Hull embodies everything one expects from a top quality dive watch. Functionality takes centre stage and has not been compromised in any way for the sake of aesthetics. The clean, uncluttered dial is easy to read and has received more than ample luminescent treatment ensuring it remains highly visible under water.

And trust us you’re going to need all the luminosity you can get where you’re going.

The Deep Hull is rated to an impressive 1,000m of water resistance (we’re told it gets pretty dark down there) and as you would expect is equipped with a fully functioning automatic helium escape valve (what is this?) and unidirectional rotating elapsed time bezel.

Powering this mighty beast is a self-winding mechanical movement, the Corum CO947, which has obtained COSC certification and is therefore officially a chronometer. (Not sure what that means? Read all about it here.) The mechanism allows rapid adjustments to the day and date indications via the crown, and it also features a hacking seconds function to enable exact setting with a time signal. Power reserve of the barrel is 42 hours.

Available in a limited production of 500 pieces in titanium and just 155 examples in black PVD-finished titanium, all models are fitted with a 24mm rubber strap bearing the Corum signature and a wide titanium prong buckle.

The Final Word
We absolutely love this piece for what it is; bold, unforgiving and resolutely masculine. The Deep Hull 48 represents all the exceptional qualities Corum has come to be so well known for and we can say with confidence that this is truly a timepiece that has been designed to be worn, not just admired. Instantly recognizable thanks to its unique style and trademark design the Deep Hull 48 is a not so subtle reminder of what this great brand is truly capable of.

We’ve certainly been converted!  

It’s not often you see someone convert their hobby into a commercial reality and with good reason. It’s not easy! When it does happen, however, the result can sometimes be something truly special, as is the case with the new Ocean Diver from the Prometheus Watch Company. This small Portuguese boutique manufacturer was only established in 2008 but thanks to their unswerving commitment to quality and their willingness to listen to feedback their latest offering is already a hit with enthusiasts the world over.

Realizing A Dream
What makes the Ocean Diver even more special is that it has been designed by watch enthusiasts for watch enthusiasts. The original concept was born from a competition run on the Watchuseek Watch forums and it was from these same forums that Prometheus received the valuable feedback on the design and functionality of the prototypes that helped shape the final product.

Don’t think for one minute it was a smooth ride though because the reality is it was anything but.

If At First You Don’t Succeed…
The final result you see here now is the combination of hard work, persistence and the willingness of Prometheus to go to back to the drawing board. You see, the first version of the Ocean Diver, whilst of a reasonable quality, was simply not up to the high standards the company had set for itself. The only solution therefore was to effectively go back to the beginning and start again. New contractors, new suppliers, new everything!

It certainly can’t have been easy but by all accounts it seems like it was the right thing to do. The new Ocean Diver is already a hit with enthusiasts and it’s not surprise really. The evolution of this watch has been much like that of a t-shirt on Threadless, the website where users vote on their favorite designs and only the winning designs are actually made into t-shirts. The result is that the t-shirts always sell out, as the company is only producing a product that their customers actually want.

Without wanting to jump the gun I would suggest that with a limited production of only 500 units, it is highly likely that the Ocean Diver Automatic will also sell out.

And why shouldn’t it? This is really a top quality timepiece. The design is very retro and in part takes its inspiration from brands such as Jaeger Le-Coultre, IWC and Longines who used super compressor cases back in the 1960′s for their dive watches. The design cues are really quite obvious, the internal rotating bezel, large numbered dial, and even the case itself all look like they were designed in decades past. At the same time though, this watch creates and retains its own unique character which is incredibly important in today’s crowded market.

Designed for recreational divers and land dwellers alike, the Ocean Diver features a super compressor case and is water resistant to 300 meters, which is respectable for a dive watch of this caliber. At 42mm it is a touch on the small side for a diving watch in my opinion, but the clever design and clear dial mean that it is still very easy to read. On the right hand of the case you will notice two crowns, one for setting the time and date and the other for controlling the internal rotating bezel.

Attention to detail in the design of this watch is evident from every angle, and so it should be! It was manufactured in the spiritual home of watch-making, the world famous Swiss Jura Mountains and is powered by a Swiss Made automatic ETA 2836 mechanical movement with a Day-Date complication.

Now, here is the real kicker. Not only is this watch exceptionally well designed and beautifully presented it is also only EUR339.00 or roughly a bit under US$500. Now do you see why I say all 500 pieces will sell out very shortly? Add to that a two year warranty and a lovely silicon strap and you have to ask yourself why are you still reading this article when you could be buying this watch?

The Final Word

The new Ocean Diver Automatic Day/Date is the perfect example of what a company can achieve when they make a commitment to and listen and actively respond to their customers. This really is an excellent quality timepiece for an unbelievably affordable price. What’s even more exciting is that there are at least two more models in the works, a GMT and a Chronograph version.

So why hesitate? Visit the Prometheus Watch Company now and secure your own little piece of the watch history.

A few weeks ago I found out that I would be eligible to receive my very own 20,000ft divers watch courtesy of the manufacturer, CX Swiss Military. Well, last week I took delivery of this record-setting new timepiece of which only a total of 1,000 pieces are available globally. Mine is number 8! Unfortunately I was pretty excited when the rather large box arrived and so ripped it apart without a second thought. Thankfully our good friend Ben Clymer over at Hodinkee had a bit more foresight and so has uploaded a great video of the “un-boxing” process which is definitely worth checking out.

For those of you not already familiar with the 20,000ft and its notorious indestructibility, we first covered it one of our ‘Weird Watch Wednesday’ segments. If you haven’t read that article yet I highly recommend you check it out first before reading the rest of this one as it will give you some valuable background information.

Size Matters…
Now back to the watch. Undeniably the first thing you notice about the 20,000ft is its size. I would estimate the case is probably as thick as 2 to 2 ½ conventional watches and so it sits pretty high off the wrist (as you can see in the photo below.) To give you a relative basis for comparison, Thomas Carey Founder of the Watch and Clock Forum and good friend of The Watch Lounge asked Frank Burgin the owner of CX Swiss Military approximately how many standard sport watches did he think he could make from the same amount of material used for the 20,000ft.

The answer: at least 2 or 3!

Having said that though it is important to recognize what this watch has been designed for, and that is not to be worn with a suit and tie! This is a pure tool watch, practicality takes precedence over aesthetics. That’s not to say that the 20,000ft is an unattractive watch because its not, but it does mean the manufacturer has not compromised on performance simply to make it look better. The timepiece showcases the exceptional level of craftsmanship Swiss Military is made of and represents the culmination of several years of research and development.

Thanks to its generous case size the 20,000ft sits very high on the wrist!

…But So Does Comfort
Still, despite its massive size the watch is quite surprisingly light, relatively speaking of course. You are definitely aware of its presence on your wrist but thanks to the titanium construction it is no where near as heavy as you might anticipate. This is excellent news for the professionals it has been designed for as it means it can worn for hours at time without pulling your shoulder out of its socket. It also means that whilst it’s comfortable to wear, you’re also conscious of it being there and so are less likely to knock it against things, which is a common issue with watches that sit high off the wrist.

As you would expect from a watch that has been purpose built and tested beyond the point of sanity the quality of the case’s construction is above reproach. This is a watch that has been designed to last and unwavering reliability is all but guaranteed. Everything about this watch feels strong and safe and you really feel like it would come through for you in an emergency situation. After all the last thing a soldier in the field wants is a watch that falls apart after a tough day at the office.

It’s also the attention to detail in the case design that really impresses me. Screw-in lugs instead of the spring-loaded variety mean that the bracelet or rubber strap is firmly secured to the case, and therefore your wrist. Both the crown and the chronograph pushers are screw-down, with the pushers featuring red safety markings which are only visible when unscrewed, thus ensuring an air-tight seal. The automatic helium escape valve is visible on the left-hand side of the case, directly opposite the crown.

Something to note also, which isn’t really clear just by looking at the official photos, is that because the watch sits so high the crown and chronograph pushers don’t dig into your wrist which can be a common issue for many sports watches, especially over-sized models. Whilst this may seem like a fairly innocuous point, it can make a huge difference in the comfort stakes. Check out the photo below to see what I mean (you can also see the brightly colored red safety markings.)

Crown and pushers sit nice and high so they don’t dig into your wrist.

And Usability
The 20,000ft is powered by a specially designed shock protected Swiss Made automatic Valjoux 7750 movement that has been certified as a Chronometer, meaning it will not lose more than 4 nor gain more than 6 seconds per day. This means the watch is not only highly functional but also highly accurate. The movement features a 48 hour power reserve and chronograph function, with the date aperture at 3 o’clock.

I have to say though that in my opinion the dial seems a little small and cramped, given the 46mm diameter. Initially I though this could present a real problem, especially when under water, but after a second look I realized the clever design of the uni-directional bezel overcomes this. All the essential information you need to access when diving (i.e. elapsed time) can be easily read from the very clearly marked bezel and the over-sized minute hand means the movement of time is easy to keep track of, even with just a quick glance.

This legibility is further enhanced by the highly lumed dial and bezel. Unfortunately, my poor photographic skills are able to do the luminosity of this watch justice, however, I can assure you it is phenomenal. After a quick charge the critical markings on the dial and bezel become highly visible in the dark and it is exceptionally easy to read. As mentioned before the over-sized minute hand really does make it easy to keep track of the time, even in poor light.

Top Marks For Presentation
The box the 20,000ft comes in deserves a post all of its own. Crafted from wood and finished nicely with a black lacquer, it feels as strong and as well put together as the actual watch itself (a very reassuring sign in my opinion!) Beautifully finished on the inside in yellow, the case contains everything you need to enjoy your new purchase, including instructions, warranty card and so forth. The case even comes equipped with the tool required to change the bracelet (or at least one of them, as you will discover for yourself). A copy of the Guinness World Record certificate is also included as well as information about Swiss Military’s concierge service.

As you can see I’ve chosen to change my watch over to the rubber diving strap that was also provided. No real reason, I just wanted to show you something a little different. The titanium bracelet is also very comfortable and easy to adjust. Although some other brands cut corners when it comes to packaging CX Swiss Military has really outdone themselves, as the photo below illustrates.

The attention to detail in the presentation of this watch is truly impressive!

The Final Word
During the course of my review on this watch I tried to keep in mind its intended purpose. Yes it is a big, bulky watch but it has been designed and built to be worn and used in extreme conditions. On the rubber strap the watch is actually quite comfortable, although admittedly I did get a slightly sore wrist after a full day’s wearing (mainly due to the weight) but over a wetsuit I cannot imagine this being a problem at all. The bezel is highly functional and exceptionally easy to read, although as I mentioned above I found the dial itself to be a bit small for my liking.

Overall it is very apparent that this is an exceptionally well-made, high quality timepiece which will last a lifetime and then some. Apart from its bulky size the only other main deterrent will be the price, which at EUR 2,998 is likely to ensure the patronage of only the more extreme watch users among us.

Still, if you’re one of the lucky ones you may not have to spend a penny to get your hands on this watch. That’s right, in January 2010, and with many thanks to CX Swiss Military, The Watch Lounge will be giving away the above 20,000ft to one lucky reader!

Make sure you stay tuned for your chance to win…

In an exciting new development it seems Omega will be introducing its latest technology, the ‘Liquidmetal’ bezel, in a new variation of the Seamaster Professional Planet Ocean. Not only does this new creation promise to look stunning it will also offer exceptional shatterproof qualities and be highly resistant to scratching and other environmental factors.

The Technology
Although limited information is available at this point in time, sources say that the graduated ring of the bezel hewn from a newly formulated ceramic-metal hybrid material colloquially referred to as “Liquidmetal”.

The source of the new material’s strength is it composition of titanium, copper, nickel and beryllium in addition to significant amounts of zirconium oxide. Not only does this make it especially resilient to the pitfalls of everyday wear it also gives the bezel a rich, lustrous finish creating the perfect combination of practical sport watch that can also be worn for more formal occasions.

Whilst metal bezel inserts are generally regarded as archaic technology, the materials that have replaced them in more high-end watches such as sapphire and ceramic remain susceptible to cracking or shattering under the impact of a particularly forceful blow. This new offering from Omega may just be able to overcome this shortfall and promise a high-end sports watch of unparalleled durability.

The Watch
At this stage few other details are available about this piece other than that the Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquidmetal will be a limited edition of 1,948 pieces in reference to the year in which the first Omega Seamaster was introduced. As with other Planet Ocean automatics, the timepiece will be animated by Omega’s Co-Axial 2500 Caliber.

The Final Word
Omega’s latest offering promises to impress hardcore enthusiasts and novices alike with its stunningly simplistic looks and incredible resilience to wear and tear. With each new advancement in technology we are getting closer and closer to a true high-end sports watch which can be worn for the purpose it was developed for without fear of damaging it or so defacing its appearance that it is unsuitable for evening wear.

The new Liquidmetal concept from Omega is a huge step in the right direction.

Chances are you may not be familiar with the brand Bremont but this English upstart is doing some great things in the world of watches. Following on from their phenomenal success with their aviation watches, Nick and Giles English wanted to build an “amphibious watch” that was both classical in its design and aviation roots but very effective as a diving watch. I’m happy to say they’ve succeeded.

A True Dive Watch
The problem with many dive watches on the market today is they are either designed solely with aesthetics in mind or alternatively with seeming complete disregard for the requirements of everyday wear. The Bremont Supermarine 500 is that elusive combination of both.

Classical in its design and aviation roots but very effective as a diving watch it has been developed as a tribute to the iconic British aircraft manufacturer responsible for the Supermarine S6B Schneider Trophy Seaplane and the incredible Supermarine Spitfire.

And to prove that it is just not about good looks the watch has had to stand up to some pretty rigorous testing. On the 2nd April at 11.10am local time on Long Island in the Bahamas, Bremont ambassador and British freediver, Sara Campbell, set a new World Record in womens freediving of 96m Constant Weight on just one breath. Sara, who has been involved with the Bremont testing and development of the new Supermarine watch held her breath for 3 minutes and 36 seconds.

Designed To Be Worn
The design of the Supermarine has been built using Bremont’s unique Trip-TickÔ three piece case construction. The case has been specially treated for hardness using Bremont’s B-EBE2000 technology and is robust enough to give it a water resistance depth of 500m or 1660ft whilst still maintaining the distinct curved profile case design Bremont is so well known for.

At 42mm the case is a touch on the small side for a dive watch but the clarity and simplicity of the dial more than makes up for this. This is further improved by the bezel being made of sapphire which covers the Superluminova C5 numbers.The sapphire crystal covering the dial will be coated on both sides with Bremont’s usual 9 layers of anti reflective coating.

Finishing off the simple case design is an stylish crown protector that has been built onto the side of the inner barrel. As with all Bremont watches the Supermarine is Swiss Made at the Bremont atelier in Biel-Bienne and houses a modified BE-36A automatic chronometer movement.

Extensive testing in the UK by Bremont on this and other new models at its test facility has led to the design and construction of an ‘Anti-Shock’ movement mount to help protect the movement against large shocks. The movement is also housed inside an Anti-Magnetic faraday cage to protect the balance, balance spring and escapement from any effects of magnetisation.

The Final Word
Bremont has really hit the nail on the head with the new Supermarine and has demonstrated that they are capable of creating stunning pieces outside of the aviation theme. Clean and classic this watch has been designed to be worn as an everyday piece with a shirt and tie or strapped on to the outside of your wetsuit for a quick weekend dive.

Recently someone commented on the site asking for an explanation of what a helium escape valve is and how it functions. Rather than write a brief comment in response I thought a more detailed explanation was in order for this essential feature of any serious dive watch.

Why Is It Necessary?
The purpose of a helium escape valve, or helium release valve as it is sometimes called, is to ensure that professional divers have access to a timepiece that can withstand the changes in pressurization inherent in diving.

Essentially when commercial divers operate at great depths, they often spend prolonged hours in diving bells under pressure breathing a gas mixture that contain the gas helium. As helium molecules are the second smallest found in nature, the gas is able to work its way inside the watch, around any o-rings or other seals the watch may feature.

Whilst the diver remains in this artificially pressurized environment the invasion of helium molecules into the watch is not an issue. However, when the diver begins their ascent to the surface there is a risk that a pressure difference will build up between the trapped helium inside the watch and the environment. This can lead to damage to the watch, such as the crystal popping off.

To overcome this issue Rolex and Doxa S.A. collaborated in the 1960s to co-create the first helium escape valve which was debuted in the Rolex Submariner/Sea-Dweller and the Doxa Conquistador. This small, one-way valve integrated into the watch’s external casing activates when the differential between the inner and outside pressure reaches a critical level to allow helium trapped inside the case to escape.

The Final Word
Due to the nature of a helium escape valve they are primarily found on mechanical diving watches that feature a water/pressure resistance greater than 300 m (1000 ft). Chances are that unless you are a serious professional diver you will never actually use this feature but it does make a cool talking point. It is also indicative of the extensive functional capabilities of the humble wristwatch.

Do yourself a favor. Next time you walk past an Omega boutique or an Authorized Dealer of Omega watches make sure you stop in to check out the new Planet Ocean Jewelry range, it is definitely worth a look. Don’t just take my word for it though, actress Nicole Kidman, stunning ambassador for Omega watches, was reportedly so captivated by the new Seamaster Planet Ocean Jewelry chronograph when wearing it for a recent shoot that she didn’t want to take it off afterwards.

Planet Ocean Jewelry Collection
This latest variation of Omega’s famed Planet Ocean certainly won’t suit everyone’s tastes but they are undeniably stunning timepieces. When it was first launched in 2004 the Planet Ocean was featured in steel with the trademark orange bezel that when on to set a color trend for sports watches that still persists. In a radical departure from this original design, the bezel has been luxuriantly and painstakingly set with diamonds to create a breathtaking result worthy of the best jewelry watches in the world.

His and Hers’ Models
It may come as a surprise to learn that this watch has been designed without either sex specifically in mind. That’s right, these watches have been designed to be worn by either men or women. At first I had some trouble reconciling with this fact but the more I look at this watch the more I realize that it is truly uni-sex.

Like the original version the Planet Ocean is available in either 42mm – a suitable size for the current trend of women wearing oversized watches – or a more masculine 45.5mm. The neutral black overtones ensure it does not favor one gender over the other and lend a sense of style and sophistication to the piece. In addition it is becoming increasingly popular for men to wear diamond watches, especially in Asia and the Middle East.

Aesthetically and Technically Brilliant
There are two models, both powered by Omega’s legendary Co-Axial escapement, self-winding COSC certified movements. Both feature brushed stainless steel cases and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal that is anti-reflective on both sides. Like the original the dials are lacquered black with applied Arabic numerals. They feature the Omega name and logo and indexes and hands coated with white Super-LumiNova. The integrated black alligator strap is fitted with a polished stainless steel fold-over clasp.

The chronograph (pictured above) at 45.5 mm maintains its sporty appeal despite the 45 sizeable diamonds totaling 2.65 carats adorning its bezel. It has a small seconds counter at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute recorder at 3 and a 12-hour recorder at 6, with a small date window at 4:30.

If you prefer a cleaner look there is the sleek and elegant chronometer which also comes in 45.5 mm or 42 mm diameters, the latter with 45 slightly smaller diamonds totalling 1.73 carats. All models have a black triangular dive minute marker with white Super-LumiNova dot, at 12 o’clock.

The Final Word
Omega’s Planet Ocean series has been renowned for setting trends since it first launched back in 2004. This latest variation, whilst far more unique, will be no exception. The brand has successfully married elegance with sport and the result is a stunning series of timepieces. Having said that, in my opinion very few people will be able to successfully pull this watch off.

Fortunately, Nicole Kidman happens to be one of them.

If you are a luxury watch enthusiast then you will no doubt be familiar with the term Officially Certified Chronometre. But what does it actually mean? And who’s giving this certification? Read on to learn more about one of the most well-respected certifications in the Swiss watch industry.

An Explanation of the COSC Chronometer Certification
The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres or the COSC as its more commonly known is a not-for-profit organization that was founded in 1973. It is the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute and was established by five watch-making cantons (Bern, Geneva, Neuchâtel, Solothurn and Vaud) as well as the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry.

It encompasses the laboratories that had been established independently of each other from the late 19th century onwards and today is the only organization in the world that decides if a watch is a chronometer or not. The COSC differs in one important respect from all previous watch testing institutions and observatories. It is strictly non-competitive. There are no points awarded or any prizes. There are no degrees of success or honorable mentions.

The watches either pass or fail.

Defining A Chronometre
Before I go any further it may be helpful here to define what a chronometer actually is, as it is often mistaken with chronographs and chronoscopes. A chronometer is a high-precision watch capable of displaying seconds and housing a movement that has been tested over several days, in different positions and at different temperatures, by an official neutral body (the COSC).

Earning The Title
To earn chronometer certification, a movement must not only be made from the highest-quality components, but also the object of special care on the part of the finest watchmakers and timers during assembly. It is important to note here that that the fine regulation and chronometer characteristics of a watch can be destroyed in seconds by a rough and inexperienced hand.

Testing criteria is based on ISO 3159 which provides the definition of a wrist-chronometer with spring balance oscillator. Only movements which meet the precision criteria established under ISO 3159 are granted an official chronometer certificate.

Each uncased movement is individually tested for fifteen days, in five positions, at three different temperatures. The movements are fitted with a seconds hand and the automatic winding mechanisms are disengaged for the tests.

Measurements are made daily with the aid of cameras. Based on these measurements, seven eliminatory criteria are calculated, the minimal of which must all be met.

The Final Word
To give a bit of perspective on the value of COSC certification over 1 million official chronometer certificates are delivered each year, which represents only 3% of the Swiss watch production. This proportion truly underscores the exceptional nature of a chronometer and certainly makes it a key factor for consideration when purchasing your next luxury watch.

For more information check out the official COSC website:

As regular visitors to the site will know I am currently having an enduring love affair with dive watches. For the most part dive watches are completely impractical for every day use due to their excessively oversized dials designed for legibility under water first and foremost and aesthetics second. However, I think I may have just found an excellent half-way point. Enter the Ulysse Nardin Diver Perpetual Limited Edition.

The Best Of Both Worlds
The new Diver Perpetual Limited Edition combines the strong aesthetic and technical elements from the Marine and Perpetual collections to effectively bring you the best of both worlds. The titanium case is big enough at 45mm to be viewed easily under water but still manageable with a suit and tie, although admittedly it would be a touch on the big side.

The black carbon fibre structured dial is contrasted sensationally with orange luminous indexes and hands which work to complement the turning bezel with its matching orange inlay. Although the orange is quite bright as you would expect from a dive watch, it is suitably muted by the predominant black overtones of the watch. Fitted with an exhibition case back the owner is afforded a prime view of the movement complete with 22ct gold rotor.

Perpetually Revolutionary
When it was first introduced into the market the Ulysse Nardin Perpetual represented a revolutionary accomplishment in the history of watch making – the first Perpetual Calendar adjustable back and forwards from a single crown. This means that all adjustments from the minute hand to the year indicator are synchronized. A few rotations of the crown will result in the calendar displays moving forwards or backwards one or more days, a few months or even several years. At the end of the month the date display automatically displays the first of the next month, while the month disc rotates as well.

The Final Word
With a water resistance of only 300m we can safely assume that this watch is more of a show pony than a serious dive watch. However, with the Diver Perpetual Limited Edition Ulysse Nardin has effectively created an everday sports watch which features unparalleled high complication functionality. Sadly it is limited to only 500 pieces, so don’t expect to see this piece down at your local beach anytime soon.