Posts Tagged ‘Geneva’
Interview With Maximilian Büsser, Founder Of MB&F And Horological Visionary!
Four years ago one extraordinary man had one absolutely extraordinary vision. That man was Maximilian Büsser and his vision was, according to him, based on a very simple and fundamental idea: to assemble dedicated Collectives of talented horological artisans, artists and professionals – all friends – to design and craft each year a radical and original horological masterpiece. The rest, as they say, is history. Celebrated as one of the most innovative and creative watchmakers of modern times, MB&F’s creations are nothing short of mind blowing. Whilst they may not suit all tastes, the level of technical and artistic complexity involved in the creation of each highly unique piece is undeniable.
As such, we consider ourselves very privileged to have been given the opportunity to share with you a very insightful and candid interview with a man who is as humble and down to earth as his timepieces are out of this world! We hope you enjoy it as much as we have.
TWL: In a relatively short period of time you have built MB&F into a highly desirable brand which boasts an almost cult following of enthusiasts and a well-respected reputation for creating groundbreaking new and unconventional pieces. How have you achieved this?
MB: I am the first to be shocked by the following we are gathering – and this is no fake humility. When I set out to create MB&F the main goal was very simple: to please MYSELF without caring about any commercial or marketing considerations. Which in layman terms means without being concerned about what any client would like or want – the exact opposite of my previous 14 years in horology which were dedicated to create pieces clients would love.
This selfish approach allowed me to explore territories that would never have been possible in a client-oriented environment. It seems it also triggered a strong reaction in very few but very enthusiast collectors, who clearly found appealing the door I opened. Also, when I speak with the owners of our Machines, they are as much touched by WHY we do what we do, as with what we do.
TWL: What aspect of your business are you most proud of? What has been most challenging?
MB: I am extremely proud of having delivered three Machines in the announced timeframe (one a year) with groundbreaking new concepts and engines which actually all work and have close to no technical or quality issues. That is the power of the Friends concept. By empowering all involved, they have achieved an incredible level of performance and quality.
Most challenging is, unfortunately as with most entrepreneurial small companies which start with small initial investments (in this case all my savings), cash-flow management. I have always paid every bill on time, and this demands quite a bit of juggling as we spend over 30% of our small revenue in Research & development of Machines which will only be delivered two to three years down the road.
The amazing MB&F HM No.1 created in conjunction with Eric Giroud, Laurent Besse and Peter Speake-Marin.
TWL: Looking back at the short history of MB&F are there any decisions you would change, if given the opportunity? Why?
MB: In tough economical times like this year, many people show their real personality. Some are extraordinary, others let you down without a thought. It taught me that I was often too candid, but at the end of the day, I will not change because I just don’t want to become paranoid.
TWL: You describe the concept of MB&F as a human adventure, a journey if you will. Are there places, both physical and metaphorical, that this journey has taken you that you never in your lifetime expected to go? How have those experiences changed your life outside of watchmaking?
MB: Clearly, I am not at all the same man I was four years ago. Stronger, more daring, happier to get out of my comfort zone. More importantly I am truly serene. Sometimes, when I think back at how I launched the company without even having 50% of the finances necessary, I smile at how driven and at the same time completely nuts I was. All this has had a very big impact on my personal life: refocusing on the essential, cutting back on all the unimportant frills most people compensate on, and being able to open up much more to others.
The absolutely mind-blowing HM No.3
TWL: How did you go about attracting financing for MB&F? You mentioned that you used all your savings to start this business and this wasn’t even close to enough so how did you get investors to support you?
MB: I needed my head examined… When I think about it today, it makes me shudder. I started the company with practically all my savings which amounted to approx 700’000US$. Now, the development of HM1 necessitated at least double that.
So 4 months after incorporating the company, I took the designs of HM1 and a plastic mould (stereolithography) mimicking its shape, around the world to visit my best Harry Winston retailers. 6 of them not only ordered the equivalent of 25 HM1 altogether but also accepted to prefinance 35% in advance the order, knowing that the first pieces would at the best be delivered 18 to 24 months later.
So when I talk about “Friends” in the term MB&F, you see it goes much further than a symbolic word. Knowing that I refuse any investors into my company, if the retailers had not accepted to prefinance, I would have had no idea how to make this happen!
TWL: Do you feel that you have achieved the goals you have set for MB&F so far? What new challenges lay ahead?
MB: Succeeding against all odds generates an addiction. That of wanting more. More projects, more explorations, wider horizons. I am working for example on an MB&F concept store called the “Mechanical Art Gallery”, which allows me to meet artists specialized in kinetic art. Mind-blowing…
Profile shot of the HM No.3 Starcruiser…wow!
TWL: Are you ever concerned that you might actually run out of ideas?
MB: Never. For whatever reason I have absolutely no doubt about this… They will differ from today’s as I will be evolving in life, but what makes my heart beat is creating and experimenting.
TWL: Most recently you introduced the MB&F HM No2.2 in conjunction with world renowned French designer Alain Silberstein. How difficult was it to manage the creative process and bring your design concepts into cohesion? Did any disagreements arise on how the final piece should look?
MB: I have been engineering creative joint ventures for practically ten years now (the first was Opus One at Harry Winston which we started working on in 2000). Creators’ egos are tricky animals, but I have never really had many issues, because I admire and respect the people I work with. Otherwise I would not ask them to work with me.
With Sage Vaughn (the Only Watch HM2) and now Alain Silberstein, the co-creations were the easiest to develop because on those particular projects I am seeking their input to enrich my creative world. So basically I gave them free reins, and allowed them to express themselves using our model as a base. In a way this is very similar to common practice in the music world where an artist invites another to compose or sing on one of the songs of the album.
TWL: What do you think fans will enjoy most about the new HM No 2.2?
MB: The reason why we did it
TWL: Can you give us any hints of who you would like to work with next and perhaps what we can expect next from the always incredible Maximilian Busser and his Friends?
MB: 2010 will be an incredibly creative year. We are starting to get into full steam mode!
The original HM No.2, a stunning masterpiece!
TWL: Finally, what advice do you have for aspiring watchmakers?
MB: Being a watchmaker is a calling. Too many youngsters in Geneva take on watchmaking school because they know they will get a handsome salary at the end of it. Sitting at your bench all day assembling horological mechanisms is a very tough job. Before you hit the glamorous jobs in the after sales service (where you become a sort of detective or doctor), or for the very few who one day can set up their brand, there are years of painstaking work on the same calibres, which can drive many to quit.
To become a black belt in karate you have to work your way through years of pretty ungrateful moves…
Intrigued? To find out more visit MB&F’s official website.
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Antiquorum Auction: 14th and 15th November, Geneva, Switzerland.
One of the great things about living in Geneva is access to great auctions, but with the next auction only four weeks after the last one it is an embarrassment of riches. October’s auction was the usual affair held at the Kempinski Hotel on the edge of Lake Geneva just a few hundred meters from the Antiquorum office.
Of course no-one is immune from the effects of the economic downturn and perhaps the biggest impact on the sales has not been on the prices, though those do seem to have dipped a little, but in the number of items up for auction. Only a couple of years ago there would have been four or six sessions over the two days of the sale, now it is one session per day.
There is one interesting trend though, the range of prices is much greater, and luckily for the non-millionaires amongst us the prices are starting lower not ending higher. There are quite a few items below 5000CHF and lot of watches less than 15K CHF. Of course with the relatively strong Swiss Franc the prices may not always compare favorably with your local auction, but if there is one thing you can rely on from Antiquorum it is that the quality of the items is usually excellent.
If you are thinking of bidding you can’t really beat the thrill of actually being in the room, but of course that’s not an option for everyone so be assured that the online bidding application is excellent. The registration is very easy, but you’ll need a credit card, preferably one that still has some money on it!! In use the application is very responsive even on a small PC and it is has a lot of users.
While there are 363 other lots in the auction, the star of the show is number 364 (pictured above). The Patek Philippe Calibre 89 is the world’s most complicated watch with 33 different complications powered by a movement of four levels. Rather unusually there is no estimated price for lot 364, but as the piece is unique who knows what it will fetch, but I suspect it will be fun to find out!!
My personal favourite is lot 325, a very early Patek Philippe wristwatch, 1910, Officers watch. The precursor to watches like the 5053 and at only 6 – 9K Swiss Francs something of a bargain, but of course now I’ve told you about it…..ah well maybe next time!
To find out more information and view the full catalog go online to the official Antiquorum website.
Sneak Peek: New Panerai Radiomir P.999 42mm Pink Gold (PAM00336)
Panerai, in a pre-SIHH announcement, have produced that rarest of watch moments, a new calibre. Whilst retaining the standard military look of a Panerai the new hand wound movement is only 3.4mm high and this, combined with a slightly smaller case at 42mm, makes this a lighter watch than many previous Panerai models.
In the technical side the new calibre has 19 jewels, a 60 hour power reserve, 154 components and a frequency of 3Hz or 21,600 beats per hour. This movement is planned to be used in other, as yet un-announced models in the Historic Collection. More news on this next week? Let’s wait and see.
In pink gold the overall look is classy and clean with the minimalist look we have come to expect, and the satin finish, rather than a highly polished one, is a welcome change. Though waterproof to 100m I don’t think anything this classy or expensive is going anywhere near the sea, but you never know people do the strangest things.
Panerai is not known for it’s complications and this watch doesn’t stray very far from the norm, with just a perpetually moving seconds hand, which is probably just as well as some of the more compicated Panerai’s are a little bit suspect style wise.
Limited to 500 pieces and part of Panerai’s Historic collection it comes on a dark brown alligator strap with a pink gold pin buckle. With a limited run I don’t think you’ll see many of these on people’s wrists, and if it takes your fancy I would suggest getting the deposit down now.
I have been lucky enough to be invited along to the Panerai presentation in Switzerland next week, so stay tuned for further updates!
Quality Redefined – The Patek Philippe Seal
Earlier this year Patek Philippe announced the introduction of their own Seal, the watch industry’s most exclusive and stringent hallmark of quality. According to the highly celebrated brand a new seal that defined all competencies and features of relevance to the manufacture, precision, and lifelong maintenance of a Patek Philippe timepiece was required (you can read the full press release here.)
I personally observed the introduction of this new Seal with great interest and so I was most fortunate then to receive a new book from the company explaining in photos and text the Patek Philippe Seal.
Published in 2009, and received Halloween week, this beautiful 45 page book explains a company’s decision to create its own quality criterion. This new in house seal replaces the Geneva Seal presumably from now on. This decision and its creation took several years to develop.
The Patek Seal is defined in both performance and aesthetic criterion. Text and unaltered photographs delve into these and other areas as well. While performance criterion are only partly explained, aesthetic ones are truly brought to life with very fine macro photography. The text uses the term Haute Horlogerie to explain what this entails.
What does this mean to the owner of the watch? It means the watch components are all smashing to see! One only need see pages 36 and 37 to understand how special a finish of a watch part can be. Using wooden wheels, the teeth of all steel wheels are treated to a perfect finish. Not simply amazing to see, this special finish improves performance and longevity of the watch.
It could be said this new seal is a response to the marketplace of today, one in which many more watches qualify for the Geneva Seal. It could also be said the Geneva Seal is too restrictive. In any event, this book is available at Patek retailers and is certainly a highly collectible one. After all, it truly
explains what will unfold into a historically significant moment in watchmaking history.
For more information check out the official Patek Philippe website.
Vacheron Constantin Malte Moon Phase and Power Reserve
Makers of arguably some of the most beautiful watches in the world, I am rarely (if ever) disappointed by Swiss masters Vacheron Constantin. The latest piece to catch my eye is the Malte Moon Phase and Power-Reserve. A very distinctive looking piece that combines the Marque’s traditional style and technical complexity with an exceptional level of legibility and unique appeal to create an instant classic.
A Brief History Lesson
For those of you that may be new to the world of high-end watch making it is worthwhile touching on Vacheron Constantin’s history so that you appreciate just who we are dealing with here. As the loyal guardian of an unbroken Genevan watchmaking tradition since 1755, Vacheron Constantin has an exceptional heritage that represents an inexhaustible source of inspiration for its contemporary creations such as this new Malte model. In 1889, the Geneva-based manufacturer produced its very first wristwatches and commenced on a journey of stylistic exploration.
Subtle Yet Shapely
Presented in a tonneau or “barrel” shape case, this is a style that was first explored by Vacheron Constantin back in 1912. Throughout the years this unique case design has seen several variations to its basic shape, at times elongated, curved, embellished or pared down according to the inspiration of the moment. This is the true genius of a Vacheron Constantin timepiece, the subtlety with which the brand shapes its pieces, at times almost imperceptible to the casual observer and at the same time mind blowing to the seasoned enthusiast.
A contemporary expression of the brand’s inimitable artistic sensitivity, the Malte line was born with the third millennium in a reinterpretation of the tonneau shape. Be warned though, the case size is very generous at 39mm x 49mm and as such will not suit all wrists. Yet it is this same size that allows for the outstanding legibility of the borderline complex dial.
Believe me though, with a dial this stunning, you will want to be able to fully appreciate even the finest of touches. Beautifully adorned with five different finishes, the level of highly skilled craftsmanship involved would be almost unthinkable from any one else. The inner zone features a silvered, finely hand-guilloché “Clous de Paris” or hobnail motif. The outer zone is decorated with a vertical satin-brushed finish, also silvered.
The minute circle, the power-reserve display as well as the inscriptions Vacheron Constantin Genève and Swiss Made are all transferred, while the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock is circular satin-brushed. And finally, the minute-circle and power-reserve zones are screen-printed in white.
As the finishing touch on a wonderfully subdued dial the moon-phase display presents an intelligent blend of technology and expertise, composed of a disc with a galvanized base and a moon face in 18-carat white gold or pink gold depending on the model. The extremely broad dial ensuring user-friendly readability is punctuated by nine hour-markers, two Roman numerals and a Maltese cross, all in 18-carat white or pink gold, depending on the version.
Keeping It In-House
Animating this refined masterpiece is the manual-winding 1410 calibre developed and manufactured entirely in-house by Vacheron Constantin. In recognition of its heritage it bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, an indication reserved exclusively for movements stemming from the finest Geneva workshops, and graced with exceptionally careful hand-crafted finishing.
In addition to hour and minute hands, the Calibre 1410 drives a precision moon-phase display which will not require any setting for more than 100 years and an indication of the over 40-hour power reserve. This 22-jewel manual-winding movement oscillates at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Available in a choice of 18-carat white gold or 5N pink gold, the satin-brushed case-back is secured by screws. The dial is protected by a glareproofed cambered sapphire crystal and is fitted with a square-scale alligator-leather strap in black for the white gold model and chestnut brown for the rose gold model – both equipped with a gold folding clasp matching the case colour.
The Final Word
In case you didn’t glean this from the above I am very big admirer of Vacheron Constantin and their stunning creations. The Malte Moon Phase presents a very attractive option for a discerning individual who is seeking a high-quality piece from a very well-respected watch maker that offers a level of moderate complication without going over the top.
The appeal of this watch is both in its subtlety and its legibility, as well as the exceptional craftsmanship it exhibits. This is a timeless piece that will be passed down through the generations.
For more information see Vacheron Constantin’s official website.
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Latest Comments
- Nick Orloff: Beautiful piece, regrettably a little (?) out of my price range. I’d love to...
- Olivier Muller: Thanks, BMW
Stay tuned ! - Jack: Looks like a really nice watch for the price!