Tag: Geneve

The Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture

| February 18, 2010 | 7 Replies

Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture

When considering the relationship between luxury and value, points of view tend to disagree. This is because these two concepts are somewhat contradictory. In light of Tom Mulraney’s article about the real value of tourbillon watches, I find it suiting to take a closer look at a watch that claims to offer both luxury and value. It will also be very interesting to hear the insightful opinion of The Watch Lounge readers in regards to this watch, which is the Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture.

Alpina is very dedicated to providing the best possible value for the high quality and appeal of luxury products. Because of this, I believe that this underestimated, modern company still has a lot of growth ahead of it. Tourbillon timepieces, while very visible in the watch media, are still quite rare in terms of units produced. Most models presented by companies other then the established giants, are often limited to tiny lots.

In the case of the Extreme Tourbillon, for instance, only 18 of each variation will be produced. The precision required to manufacture the numerous components of the tourbillon cage is the source of both the rarity and prestige associated with this complication. A closer look at Alpina’s AL-980 calibre Tourbillon movement will put these components in evidence.

The AL-980 calibre is comprised of 188 parts. Its purpose is to offer accuracy, impressive Swiss manufacturing, and – of course – the complex tourbillon mechanism at a price lower then the competition’s. This proprietary mechanism is an extensively modified version of Alpina’s original manufacture calibre, the AL 950. It retains the AL-950′s automatic winding mechanics and the regulator hour configuration.

One of the main aspects of the new AL-980, is that is equipped with a silicium escapement wheel and lever. The advantages of this material are now well known by many watch enthusiasts. Its light weight creates less friction than traditional substances and allows for a more precise measurement of time. The viscosity of the escapement also allows it to run properly without lubrication, virtually eliminating the need for regular servicing. The tourbillon cage itself is made of 80 parts showing how intricate even a basic version of this complication can be.

Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture

The tourbillon is an impressive complication. It is easy to see why watches that are equipped with it, often exhibit it through the dial. This is so on the Extreme Tourbillon Regulator, who’s dial is “skeletonized” to showcase the mesmerizing combination of rotation and oscillation. The dial’s low contrast further highlights the individually numbered “tourb.” The markings on the multilevel dial are black and the applied steel hour markers and hands are darkened with the PVD process. The 48mm case is sporty and modern. It offers a relatively low profile and curved lugs, which are joined to a soft rubber strap for a comfortable fit. The black bezel is made of ceramic while the black case is made of titanium and coated with diamond like carbon (DLC). All Extreme Tourbillon regulators offer a peek at the ingenious movement via see-through, exhibition backs.

The Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator represents a new category of tourbillon watches. These timepieces offer all the quality and precision expected of Swiss manufacturing with a price that reflects their actual value without the Tourbillon Club surcharge. The Extreme Tourbillon offers the simplest and most robust form of the “whirlwind” mechanism and packages it in a modern, sporty case.

Only 18 copies of each of the two versions will be manufactured reflecting the naturally limiting precision and time required to build them. With a price tag that hovers around the $50,000 mark, the AL-980BC5AE9 and AL-980BCT5AE9 Extreme Tourbillon Regulators represent the rare balance between luxury and value.

Have Alpina got it right? Tell us what you think below!

Marco is a specialist of Alpina watches at Matt Baily.

Grand Prix D’Horlogerie de Geneve 2009

| November 16, 2009 | 3 Replies

Hublot One Million Dollar Black Caviar Bang
Hublot’s stunning One Million Dollar Black Caviar Bang took out the jewelery award.

The highlight of the Watch season in Geneva is undeniably the annual Grand Prix D’Horlogerie and the accompanying presentation of the Grand Prix award. I was most fortunate to attend this year’s event, held at the Grand Theatre on the rather damp evening of the 14th November. The positively dazzling line-up of watches on show ensured the evening would be one to remember and promised more than one surprise on the night.

Certainly I was in good company with Geneva’s social elite arriving by Bentley, Ferrari and taxi. Whilst pleasantries were exchanged we all knew what we really were here for and so by 18:30 everyone was seated for the prize giving.

Piaget Limelight Twice
Piaget’s Limelight Twice took home the Women’s award.

The Grand Theatre is an imposing classical building from the outside, but once inside it is an older building that has been brought into the 21st century with excellent acoustics. We settled into our seats on the second tier, a nice box with a good view of the stage and the musical entertainment.

The presentations themselves were a slightly amateur affair. Whilst there was always a beautiful man and woman on hand to present the prizes, it didn’t really flow very well. In addition, the stream of politicians giving speeches about how important the watch business is to Geneva became quite tedious. Nonetheless, as they support the whole show I guess this really cannot be avoided.

Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon Technique
Greubel Forsey’s mind blowing Double Tourbillon Technique was given the award for complicated watches.

The awards themselves recognize the achievements of watches presented in a range of categories as voted on by a jury. The 2009 winners were:

Sports Watch – Richard Mille – RM 025
Man’s Watch – Audemars Piquet – Jules Audemars
Woman’s Watch – Piaget – Limelight Twice
Design Watch – Harry Winston – Opus 9
Complicated – Greubel Forsey – Double Tourbillon Technique
Jewelry – Hublot – 1 Million $ Black Caviar Bang
Public Prize – de Grisogono – Mecanique dG
Aiguille d’Or – Lange & Sohne – Lange Zeitwerk

All in all it was wonderful evening flush with beautiful people, stunning watches and flashing cameras. All I can say is bring on next year!

For the full story and additional photos check out the official website.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Moon Phase and Power Reserve

| November 7, 2009 | 2 Replies

Vacheron Constantin Malte Moon Phase and Power Reserve

Makers of arguably some of the most beautiful watches in the world, I am rarely (if ever) disappointed by Swiss masters Vacheron Constantin. The latest piece to catch my eye is the Malte Moon Phase and Power-Reserve. A very distinctive looking piece that combines the Marque’s traditional style and technical complexity with an exceptional level of legibility and unique appeal to create an instant classic.

A Brief History Lesson
For those of you that may be new to the world of high-end watch making it is worthwhile touching on Vacheron Constantin’s history so that you appreciate just who we are dealing with here. As the loyal guardian of an unbroken Genevan watchmaking tradition since 1755, Vacheron Constantin has an exceptional heritage that represents an inexhaustible source of inspiration for its contemporary creations such as this new Malte model. In 1889, the Geneva-based manufacturer produced its very first wristwatches and commenced on a journey of stylistic exploration.

Subtle Yet Shapely
Presented in a tonneau or “barrel” shape case, this is a style that was first explored by Vacheron Constantin back in 1912. Throughout the years this unique case design has seen several variations to its basic shape, at times elongated, curved, embellished or pared down according to the inspiration of the moment. This is the true genius of a Vacheron Constantin timepiece, the subtlety with which the brand shapes its pieces, at times almost imperceptible to the casual observer and at the same time mind blowing to the seasoned enthusiast.

A contemporary expression of the brand’s inimitable artistic sensitivity, the Malte line was born with the third millennium in a reinterpretation of the tonneau shape. Be warned though, the case size is very generous at 39mm x 49mm and as such will not suit all wrists. Yet it is this same size that allows for the outstanding legibility of the borderline complex dial.

Believe me though, with a dial this stunning, you will want to be able to fully appreciate even the finest of touches. Beautifully adorned with five different finishes, the level of highly skilled craftsmanship involved would be almost unthinkable from any one else. The inner zone features a silvered, finely hand-guilloché “Clous de Paris” or hobnail motif. The outer zone is decorated with a vertical satin-brushed finish, also silvered.

The minute circle, the power-reserve display as well as the inscriptions Vacheron Constantin Genève and Swiss Made are all transferred, while the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock is circular satin-brushed. And finally, the minute-circle and power-reserve zones are screen-printed in white.

As the finishing touch on a wonderfully subdued dial the moon-phase display presents an intelligent blend of technology and expertise, composed of a disc with a galvanized base and a moon face in 18-carat white gold or pink gold depending on the model. The extremely broad dial ensuring user-friendly readability is punctuated by nine hour-markers, two Roman numerals and a Maltese cross, all in 18-carat white or pink gold, depending on the version.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Moon Phase and Power Reserve

Keeping It In-House
Animating this refined masterpiece is the manual-winding 1410 calibre developed and manufactured entirely in-house by Vacheron Constantin. In recognition of its heritage it bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, an indication reserved exclusively for movements stemming from the finest Geneva workshops, and graced with exceptionally careful hand-crafted finishing.

In addition to hour and minute hands, the Calibre 1410 drives a precision moon-phase display which will not require any setting for more than 100 years and an indication of the over 40-hour power reserve. This 22-jewel manual-winding movement oscillates at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Available in a choice of 18-carat white gold or 5N pink gold, the satin-brushed case-back is secured by screws. The dial is protected by a glareproofed cambered sapphire crystal and is fitted with a square-scale alligator-leather strap in black for the white gold model and chestnut brown for the rose gold model – both equipped with a gold folding clasp matching the case colour.

The Final Word
In case you didn’t glean this from the above I am very big admirer of Vacheron Constantin and their stunning creations. The Malte Moon Phase presents a very attractive option for a discerning individual who is seeking a high-quality piece from a very well-respected watch maker that offers a level of moderate complication without going over the top.

The appeal of this watch is both in its subtlety and its legibility, as well as the exceptional craftsmanship it exhibits. This is a timeless piece that will be passed down through the generations.

For more information see Vacheron Constantin’s official website.

Fighting Fakes: Two-Part Special

| September 14, 2009 | 1 Reply

replica watches

The global spread of counterfeit watches is an issue that plagues watchmakers, retailers, enthusiasts and everyday consumers alike. Given the sheer magnitude of fakes flooding the markets the best defence available to protect yourself is knowledge. In this two-part special I will explore in detail what constitutes a counterfeit, how its effecting the industry and what’s been done about it. In part two I will provide some valuable hints and tips on how to steer clear of imitators.

What Are They?
Per Wikipedia, a counterfeit watch is an illegal copy of an authentic watch bearing the name of its brand and according to estimates by the Swiss Customs Service, there are some 30 to 40 million counterfeit watches put into circulation each year. The profitability of this black market industry is huge and seemingly endless, with one estimate putting the profit margin at $10 per dollar invested, about equal to profits of the illicit drug trade (and well below the profits of legitimate watch makers). This is truly a global business with numerous links to organised crime and a distribution network to die for!

Where Do They Come From?
So who’s making all these fakes? Swiss Customs estimates that 40% of counterfeit watches come from China, but counterfeits are produced elsewhere, even in the USA. You may remember the story from a few years ago now of authorities arresting a Florida woman for operating a counterfeit watch business. Her rented storage unit held almost 2,000 brand-name fake watches, with a total estimated retail value of $8.5 million. This is one of literally thousands of stories just like it and only serves to illustrate how wide-spread this issue has become.

The scary thing though is that in many countries possessing such a watch is not illegal. Even in Switzerland, where somewhat surprisingly, private persons are allowed to keep one counterfeit watch per person at the most, provided they import it personally into Switzerland. The maker and sellers of the replicas are usually in violation of the legal copyrights on the original manufacturer’s copyrights and trademarks, however, this rarely gives the latter much comfort.

What’s Been Done About It?
Why don’t the big brands do something about it I hear you ask? Well the fact is they do, however, with limited to no success. As with any facet of organised crime, tracing the problem back to the source is incredibly difficult, nigh impossible! Further to this, distribution of counterfeit watches is so widely spread now that it is simply pointless trying to address it without international co-operation between the appropriate authorities. This aspect is improving, however, it is a long way of being at the level required.

Another argument often put forth is that anyone who wants a $1,000 to $20,000+ watch and will settle for a $100 fake of it was not a serious buyer. They either would never have bought the real thing, or will toy with the fake and eventually return to their original desire and buy a real one after the brand-name image makes them feel good, but the fake itself disappoints. So while these products do infringe on the name brands, they don’t really hurt sales, therefore manufacturers do not have a financial incentive to aggressively pursue them. They tend to do enough that they can prove in any court cases that do arise that they have enforced their trademarks. But more than that is profitless to them.

There is some merit to this argument, however, consider this: globally, counterfeit watches are estimated to cost the Swiss watch industry more than $600 million per year. The claim that there is no harm done to sales is simply not true, as we all have seen or heard of countless examples where people will settle for a fake for any number of reasons, lack of education, taste, etc.

The Final Word
In my opinion, the big brands need to do more. No so much in pursuing the purveyors of these cheap imitations, but in educating and reminding consumers why they choose (have chosen) to buy a luxury watch in the first place. I’m fairly certain that no one here has bought a luxury watch solely because of the brand name or the way it looked. Consumers demand quality and they need to know they are going to get it. Watchmakers and retailers alike should be aware of this and act accordingly. Too often the significance of this is overlooked and can seriously impede the whole buying experience.

Make sure you tune in tomorrow for Part.2 on avoiding purchasing a fake watch.

Brand In Focus: Cartier

| September 12, 2009 | 1 Reply

Cartier Ballon Blue

Cartier watches are synonymous with luxury and timeless elegance. Aided by its illustrious background as a jeweler of incomparable prestige, the House of Cartier has successfully introduced watches which have transcended their time of introduction to become truly legendary.

A Brief History (That’s Not Really Brief At All!)
The jeweler was originally founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier. In 1874 his son, Alfred Cartier took over the administration of the company, but it was his sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, who were responsible for establishing the famous world-wide brand name of Cartier.

Louis retained responsibility for the Paris branch, moving to the Rue de la Paix, in 1899. He was responsible for some of the company’s most celebrated design innovations, like the legendary mystery clocks, high fashion wristwatches and exotic orientalist Art Deco designs, including the daringly colourful “Tutti Frutti” jewels. Jacques took charge of the London operation and eventually moved to the current location at New Bond Street.

Pierre Cartier established the New York Branch in 1909, moving in 1917 to the current location of 653 Fifth Avenue, the Neo-Renaissance mansion of Morton Freeman Plant, son of railroad tycoon Henry B. Plant. The Cartier flagship mansion was purchased by the company from Morton Plant and his wife, in exchange for a pearl necklace, valued at the time at $1 million.

The Turning Point
After Louis Cartier designed a wristwatch for famed Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, Cartier timepieces rapidly became known and celebrated. Throughout the early years of the 20th century, designs such as the Tank, Tortue, and the Pasha were introduced, their appeal enduring to the present day, where they still remain as timeless as ever, and are continually enriched by new and sparkling variations.

The Final Word
Today, the house of Cartier continues to be a leading force in the world of high luxury. Aficionados of prestigious mechanical watchmaking can find much to admire with Cartier, whose elite Privee collection includes timepieces that feature such horological masterpieces as the tourbillon, the minute repeater, and the perpetual calendar. At the same time, Cartier remains dedicated to creating fresh and fashionable new designs which is evidenced in every new timepiece they create.

Truly a brand of distinct and distinguished tastes.

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