Posts Tagged ‘Interview’
Interview With Eric Giroud, Watch Designer Extraordinaire! (French Version)
TWL: Quel sont les dessins de montres sur lesquels tu as travaillés qui ont représenté le plus grand défi ?
EG: Chaque nouveau projet représente un défi. Cependant, historiquement, le premier vrai défi pour moi fut l’étude du Tourbillon Glissière pour Harry Winston. Il s’agissait pour moi de travailler pour la première fois en collaboration avec un horloger, Christophe Claret. J’ai beaucoup appris, Christophe Claret fut extraordinaire et Harry Winston très confiant.
HM N°1 de MB&F à également représenté un énorme défi, car il s’agissait de créer une première montre pour une nouvelle marque, avec tout ce que cela comporte de peur et de questionnement. J’ai énormément appris lors de cette aventure, c’était une grande première pour moi.
Simply amazing – the Harry Winston Glissiere Tourbillon Automatic
Enfin, Opus 9 fut également un magnifique défi, car j’ai du gérer la grande liberté que Harry Winston et Jean-Marc Wiederecht m’ont laissée dans l’approche conceptuelle du projet. Cette liberté totale n’est pas nécessairement simple à gérer, mais dans le cas présent il y a eu un magnifique support des autres partenaires et le résultat est parlant…
TWL: Quelle est ta création horlogère qui te rend aujourd’hui le plus fier ?
EG: Sans aucun doute Opus 9 pour Harry Winston.
TWL : Pourquoi cette pièce a-t-elle une signification particulière pour toi?
EG: Parce que ce projet est très personnel, car je l’ai crée en vacances, hors de mon contexte habituel de travail. Il l’est également par la richesse de la collaboration avec l’équipe de Harry Winston et de l’horloger Jean-Marc Wiederecht. Cette aventure m’a beaucoup appris et fut merveilleuse au plan humain. La gestion d’une telle liberté pour créer une pièce aussi prestigieuse est de prime abord une chose assez difficile, mais je dois avouer que le résultat me plait énormément. J’ai été très ému du résultat lorsque j’ai vu le premier prototype
TWL: Quelles sont tes sources d’inspiration pour les incroyables designs que tu crées? Comment ces influences ont un impact sur la pièce finie dans son ensemble?
EG: L’inspiration… Quel mot magique ! Je plaisante mais, en effet, il faut être très inspiré pour créer des montres qui se démarquent et se remarquent. Pour moi, il y a deux sources à l’inspiration. La première vient d’abord de l’extérieur, des marques qui vous alimentent de données et de signes. La seconde vient de l’intérieur, des recherches et de la culture personnelles. En ce qui me concerne, je m’intéresse à diverses formes d’art. J’adore écouter et découvrir de la musique, si possible allongé sur un canapé. Je suis amateur d’art contemporain, je parcours les expositions, je vais à la rencontre des artistes, j’aime vivre entouré d’œuvres et j’en achète lorsque je le peux. Je me nourris aussi du cinéma, de ses histoires, de l’imaginaire des cinéastes. Sans oublier les nombreux magazines qui me permettent de sentir les diverses tendances.
The legendary Opus 9
Musique et horlogerie se rencontrent dans le rythme et l’harmonie. Une minute de musique provoque chez moi une émotion d’une force exceptionnelle. Je cherche modestement à m’en rapprocher quand je crée une montre, à toucher les sens au plus profond. Outre le fait que j’aime son regard sur le monde, l’art contemporain m’aide à m’interroger, à repousser mes limites, à sortir de mes habitudes. Ses interrogations stimulent ma créativité. Les artistes n’ont ni limite ni tabou, ils osent, voire dénoncent, ce qui n’est pas si courant de nos jours. Me confronter à eux est une réelle bouffée d’air. Cela m’aide à créer des tensions et à apporter des idées ou des éléments nouveaux dans l’horlogerie.
L’impact de l’inspiration sur la pièce finale n’est pas nécessairement important, car l’émotion que procure une pièce horlogère est propre à chacun. Je pense que les sources d’inspiration sont souvent non dévoilées et restent une partie intimement cachée au public. En cela, elles appartiennent parfois uniquement aux personnes qui ont participé au développement du projet.
TWL: Quelle est la première chose que tu considères quand tu dessines une nouvelle pièce horlogère?
EG: Comprendre le projet en question. Ensuite seulement, le processus de création peut se mettre en marche par le biais de croquis ou dessins à la main. A ce stade, l’objectif est d’appréhender au mieux les diverses difficultés liées aux dimensions de l’objet et à l’intégration du mouvement, ainsi qu’a la manière de construire la montre. Tout ceci représente la phase conceptuelle de l’objet. A partir de là, je peux rencontrer de nouveaux représentants de la marque en question afin de partager mes interrogations, mes idées, afin de définir la direction à prendre. Il est très important pour moi d’impliquer les divers interlocuteurs du projet au plus tôt du processus de création, pour être le plus juste possible.
TWL: Quel est le plus difficile quand tu commences un nouveau projet de design?
EG: C’est de comprendre la raison, le pourquoi et le fond du nouveau projet. D’abord de réfléchir pour être le plus juste possible envers la demande afin de pouvoir ensuite créer l’objet. J’aime à répéter qu’un bon projet est un condensé de bonnes questions, et un bon produit est une bonne réponse.
HM No.1 in White Gold by MB&F
TWL: Parmi les multiples collaborations que tu as eues avec tant d’horlogers étonnants, y’en a-t-il une qui se démarque particulièrement ?
EG: Je ne peux malheureusement pas en choisir une seule, car à chaque étape et pour beaucoup de différent projets, j’ai travaillé avec des horlogers extraordinaires qui m’ont beaucoup appris. Historiquement, le premier qui m’as ouvert la porte de son atelier fut Peter Speake Marin ; il m’a fait prendre conscience de l’importance d’un mouvement, des ses divers composants, de son fonctionnement de ses diverses finitions.
Ensuite, il y a Christophe Claret, lors de l’étude du Tourbillon Glissière pour Harry Winston. C’était la première fois que je collaborais à un projet qui contenait un mouvement très compliqué, dont le design devait également porter sur ses propres composantes. Ce fut pour moi extraordinaire de pouvoir travailler sur la totalité du projet, y compris sur tout ce qui fut relatif au mouvement.
On pourrait aussi citer Laurent Besse, son inventivité et son ouverture d’esprit dans le cadre de HM N°1, ou encore Jean-Marc Wiederecht pour la richesse de notre collaboration, et pour son incroyable ingéniosité dans le cadre de l’ Opus 9.
TWL: Peux tu nous donner un aperçu de ton travail actuel, ou encore des master designer en 2010?
EG: Je ne peux malheureusement pas dévoiler les projets sur lesquels je travaille en ce moment, mais je peux toutefois signaler que j’ai des projets pour 2011 et 2012. La confidentialité est un des maîtres mots de ma profession, c’est pourquoi avant la présentation dans les salons horlogers de chaque nouveau produit auquel j’ai participé, je ne peux malheureusement rien dévoiler.
TWL: Quel conseil pourrais-tu donner aux designers qui désirent suivre tes pas?
EG: Je n’ai pas de conseil particulier à donner aux jeunes designers, si ce n’est simplement leur dire qu’il s’agit d’un merveilleux métier doté de beaucoup de règles. Ne dit-on pas que de la liberté naît des règles ? Il faut beaucoup de patience, d’humilité face aux différents interlocuteurs, être très curieux et avoir de temps en temps de la chance…
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Interview With Vincent Perriard, New(ish) CEO of TechnoMarine
This week we were very lucky to steal a few precious minutes with the highly energized, industry legend, Mr Vincent Perriard. Fresh from his role as the Global President of Concord, where he was instrumental in turning around the fortunes of the floundering watch maker, Vincent earlier this year took the reins at the iconic watch brand TechnoMarine. Never one to shy away from the limelight Vincent tells us what he has planned for this cool, hip brand that has unfortunately lost its way in more recent years. However, if TechnoMarine is the sheep than Perriard is surely the shepherd and it seems that greener pastures may just be closer than we think!
One thing is for sure, whatever the future holds, as long as Perriard’s around its going to be exciting!
TWL: What motivated you to take on the new role at Technomarine? What factors did you consider before accepting the position?
VP: I have been lucky enough to successfully reposition CONCORD in 3 years. After 3 years of hard work I started to receive a lot of phone calls… And the day I received Christian Viros’s call, it was different. Christian is one of the most talented managers the Watch industry has ever had. He is the man who repositioned TAG HEUER in the late 80’s and successfully sold the brand in the late 90’s to LVMH…
TWL: What do you feel you bring to the brand that it is currently lacking and why?
VP: E-N-E-R-G-Y… The need for positive energy is important in a brand. You need to have a vision. Translate your vision into an actionable plan. And then stick to it! I can bring this to TechnoMarine with a creative touch and my network.
TWL: At Concord you completely reinvented the brand, shifting the focus entirely and repositioning the brand to appeal to a much different target market. Do you plan to do the same with Technomarine?
VP: Yes. This is why Christian Viros wanted me on-board. My job is to recreate the brand with a new price segment, much more competitive but also much more compelling in a post-crisis situation! With a $300 – $3,000 retail price segment, we are much more “democratic” but want to offer the emotion and the content that you find in watches that cost $10,000+…
TWL: What changes are you planning to implement at Technomarine over the next 12 months and why?
VP: In Basel 2010 TechnoMarine is coming with around 100 new products to give a new dimension and coherence to our collections. We are coming with a total new team of creatives, marketers, sales people and designers. We are coming with a new brand identity with a new logo, color, new marketing concept, new advertising, new brand environment and a distribution totally reorganized and designed to penetrate the territories where we have no presence… this is STEP 1. This will be done in… 5 months of work (we have started our new mission on Sept. 1, 2009…)
STEP 2 is Basel 2011… we will create the buzz by reconnecting the brand with its core DNA: low end meets high end… Expect the unexpected. The brand will be credible, relevant and “cool” again…
TWL: What do you think are the key strengths of the brand? What are its weaknesses?
VP: Strength: The brand has got a great and cool name that evokes something: Technique and Marine… There is something cool in the name. In any part of the globe retailers recognize this name and remember the good times of the TechnoDiamond… The plastic meets the Diamond. There is goodwill, without doubt.
Weakness: The brand has lost its point of view. Its “raison d’être”. We will reconnect the DNA of this brand with great products.
TWL: What does a Technomarine customer look like? What do they like about the brand and why do they choose to wear your watches?
VP: Our customers, back to the late 90’s were watch lovers. They were wearing expensive watches and went to the TechnoMarine universe because the brand was cool. It was not about money. A little bit like SWATCH in the late 80’s. You can be wealthy and drive a mini. You still look cool. TechnoMarine is not about money, it’s a state of mind. And we will recreate this State Of Mind…
TWL: How do you communicate and connect with your customers? Large watch companies are often criticized for not fully understanding and utilizing the internet and social media to market and promote their products. How do you plan to address this issue at Technomarine?
VP: The watch industry has been always afraid to enter into the electronic era… When a manager in the watch industry says “my company invests on the internet”, he says he is investing 10 to 15% of his budget online… and he buys a banner, that’s it.
We, at TechnoMarine, we are preparing a real online offensive strategy where VIRAL marketing takes place. We are producing around 120,000 units a year. Our reach is much wider than many watch companies. The internet is much more direct, more interactive, gives more creative opportunities. If you’re looking to buy a watch today, what is your reflex? You go online to see what the community says about your selected brand. Today, everybody goes online.
We want to strongly invest on the internet because it is much better to “own” one channel and to “treat” it in a very efficient way.
TWL: What does the future look like for Technomarine? Can we expect to see any major changes in design or functionality?
VP: Yes. We are working on disruptive concepts that no one has seen so far… But this is for 2011. We just started. In fact, remember that I started on September 1, 2009, 3 months ago. But you’ll be already surprised in 2010… I hope.
TWL: Finally, what is your favorite piece from the current collection and why?
VP: The CRUISE because the color of the watch can be changed in 10 seconds: new strap, new cover which makes your watch unique and following your mood. This watch is cool. It’s not a question of money, but a state of mind!
Interview With Define Watches – Purveyors Of Fine Timepieces
Too often independent watch brands don’t flourish outside their own country, let alone their own continent, through no fault of their own. They simply cannot match the marketing budgets and distribution channels of their larger counterparts and as such often pass unnoticed by retailers and consequently, mainstream consumers. This is extremely disappointing, especially given the high level of quality and craftsmanship some of these master watch makers are capable of. As such, it is a real pleasure when one discovers a company that has recognized just how much these oft overlooked brands have to offer.
Today we would like to introduce you to Define Watches, an Australian based wholesaler who imports and distributes high-end, niche market watches into and all around the continent. We were very fortunate to be granted an interview with Define’s delightful owners, Peter Petzold and Lydia Dalle Nogare, who are as renowned for their personalized service as they are for the stunning pieces they stock. Today they give us not only an insight into their own business and what they are trying to achieve, but also their first-hand view of the luxury watch market in Australia.
Definitely a worthwhile read for someone looking for something a little different!
TWL: How long have you been importing and selling watches in Australia? How did you first start out in this business?
DW: After moving to Australia, from Germany, in Nov 2008 we started the business and proceeded with import and sales activities in early 2009.
Lydia and I had been working with most major Swiss watch brands from a PR and production perspective for about 10 years. We originally looked into importing boutique Swiss brands however, as we started to look deeper into the matter we uncovered the long tradition of the German watch industry and the quality of its output. Importing independent German watch brands was the logical choice and we are very pleased it turned out this way. The quality is the same if not superior and dealing with independent watchmakers allows a great deal of flexibility and personalization – which is exactly what we are about.
TWL: What do you think are the key strengths of your business? What are the areas you would like to improve on further?
DW: First and foremost the quality, design and workmanship of the timepieces we represent are optimal which makes our end of things more enjoyable. We are both passionate about what we do and believe wholeheartedly in providing personalized and fair advice and service. So, we would hope that great products and good service would be our key strengths.
In terms of improvements, we know that we need to get more information out there to let clients know just how great German watches really are and what excellent value for money they represent especially when you factor in the large overhead prices people often have to pay on some of the big brands. We’d also like to get more watches out there in the retail market and this is one reason we are looking into investing in and setting up a showroom in Brisbane.
TWL: What factors do you consider when selecting a new brand to stock and distribute?
DW: Quality is the top priority as well as value for money. When we started the business we made a promise to each other not to lie or ‘rip off’ customers. Obviously we wouldn’t last long if we tried but we felt it was important to treat people the way we liked to be treated: honestly, fairly and with dedication. If we don’t believe in the brand we won’t represent it and there have been several situations where this has been the case.
Another major influence on our decision is the overall design and uniqueness of the watch. While a collection doesn’t necessarily have to be something we would wear ourselves, it does have to convey a certain balance of form and aesthetic harmony to come into consideration. Luckily, German design principles tend to be understated and minimalistic which we feel translate well to watch design, making our job even easier.
TWL: Are there any new brands you currently have your eyes on?
DW: Yes. There is one particular brand we would like to take on as a part collection and we are eagerly awaiting Baselworld 2010 where we will be meeting with several other watchmakers to preview their collection and a possible collaboration.
TWL: What sort of relationships do you have with your suppliers? Do you get the opportunity to visit and tour their facilities?
DW: Having worked with the big Swiss watch groups and having witnessed the pressure they are under and in turn place their retailers under, it was vital for us to have open, flexible relationships with every watchmaker whose product we represent. From the brands we carry, we know each watchmaker or CEO personally and have almost daily contact with many of them.
Before entering the business it was important for us to gain an understanding about the watches we would represent. So, before leaving Germany we took the time to visit each manufacture and learn how the timepieces are conceived, prototyped, manufactured and serviced. At that time, we also established an open door policy with each company whereby we are welcome to invite anyone who is interested in the brands to visit the production facilities and meet the watchmakers in person. This is a nice bonus that you might not get the chance to take up if dealing with one of the bigger brands.
TWL: The Australian market is often overlooked by more exclusive brands as it is considered too small to worry about. Do you feel that this position is justified? How do you feel that the industry and market in general has changed since you first became involved?
DW: I think it is a combination of things that precludes Australia from consideration as a major watch market in global terms. Population is one, but physical distance and geographic knowledge is definitely another and when you look at it from this perspective you begin to see that people are missing the point with Australia. Many big brands see Australia as being a long way away from anywhere (and it is, the logistics and costs of getting products here should not be underestimated). Europeans and Americans also tend to see Australia as a holiday destination and sometimes have trouble seeing beyond their own shores.
All of this is good news for us. The Australian market is young, accepting, educated, willing to try new products and accept new ideas. We’ve also found that Australians are in general, less brand-oriented than their European counterparts in the sense that they will look around and make their decision based upon quality and value for money not just brand.
TWL: Do you feel that it is growing in its sophistication and appreciation of the world of high horology?
DW: Absolutely. We thought it would take a lot longer for us even to penetrate the watch market in Australia but requests have been pouring steadily in and not just for the better known brands such as SINN or MEISTERSINGER but also for the quite new, small brands like SOTHIS and JOERG SCHAUER.
It would be wrong to assume there is no sophistication in the Australian market, in fact quite the opposite is true, we are discovering that Australian clients are well informed and have very discerning tastes.
TWL: How receptive do you feel the Australian market is to new brands, especially ones that they may not be as familiar with?
DW: To date we have found a great deal of open-mindedness about new brands. It is obvious that people do their research but not having an established brand is not as big a hurdle as we thought it would be. Unfortunately, it is often the retailers who put up the barricades and refuse to take in new brands which is a shame because this ultimately stops client access to good watches.
TWL: What do you think are the key challenges faced by retailers who sell high-end products, such as luxury watches, on-line? How can these be overcome?
DW: From what we are being told, by retailers, the big watch brands impose a lot of constraints on retails which can be quite debilitating. Such things as: minimum order quantities, sales quotas, display regulations, poor service and not to mention a deviation in quality are unfortunately growing issues associated with the high end brands – not just in the watch market. Products are often at such a premium that the cost/value ratio no longer equates. These issues also relate to web-based companies which, in addition, have price pressure from other web-based sales centres.
We are not immune to these matters and have tried to overcome some of the inherent pressures by ensuring that we deal with flexible, fair watchmakers who personally oversee their production standards. We also try to maintain a certain level of personalisation and aftersales support, both with internet sales to areas where there are no retailers carrying our brands and via our retail network of watch specialists. It is an ongoing challenge to maintain product, service and aftersales service but it isn’t impossible and as we are finding, it can actually be quite enjoyable as every watch lover has a story to tell.
TWL: Finally, what are your three favorite pieces from your current collection?
DW: HMMM! Just when I thought the interview was over, the hardest question presents itself.
Joerg Schauer who is known for his minimalistic design and quality production has some really stunning pieces such as the classic edition 10
The complete SINN range is just functionally fantastic and I couldn’t possible pick one as I own 5 and rotate them on a regular basis. I just don’t know any other brand that gives you so much technology, so many functions, such a great range and such good value for money.
Armin Strom’s new ARMIN collection is sublime and the only reason I don’t own one is that I can’t decide which colour scheme I like best.
I also can’t help but admire the delicacy of the skeletonised models from Armin Strom and Jochen Benzinger. There is just something special about hand ennobles movements. It’s like art.
MeisterSinger watches are so simple and unique that they epitomize classical elegance and of course Muehle Glashuette are just German watches of grand tradition and style.
Dornblueth & Sohn is one particular favourite and having owned an IWC I’d select a Dornblueth regulator over it any day.
I could go on and on but I won’t. I guess you can see why we carry the brands we do. They are all so unique and offer something totally different to the next. It is more than work for us, it is a passion.
So, do yourself a favor and check out Define Watches’ online store today!
Interview With Maximilian Büsser, Founder Of MB&F And Horological Visionary!
Four years ago one extraordinary man had one absolutely extraordinary vision. That man was Maximilian Büsser and his vision was, according to him, based on a very simple and fundamental idea: to assemble dedicated Collectives of talented horological artisans, artists and professionals – all friends – to design and craft each year a radical and original horological masterpiece. The rest, as they say, is history. Celebrated as one of the most innovative and creative watchmakers of modern times, MB&F’s creations are nothing short of mind blowing. Whilst they may not suit all tastes, the level of technical and artistic complexity involved in the creation of each highly unique piece is undeniable.
As such, we consider ourselves very privileged to have been given the opportunity to share with you a very insightful and candid interview with a man who is as humble and down to earth as his timepieces are out of this world! We hope you enjoy it as much as we have.
TWL: In a relatively short period of time you have built MB&F into a highly desirable brand which boasts an almost cult following of enthusiasts and a well-respected reputation for creating groundbreaking new and unconventional pieces. How have you achieved this?
MB: I am the first to be shocked by the following we are gathering – and this is no fake humility. When I set out to create MB&F the main goal was very simple: to please MYSELF without caring about any commercial or marketing considerations. Which in layman terms means without being concerned about what any client would like or want – the exact opposite of my previous 14 years in horology which were dedicated to create pieces clients would love.
This selfish approach allowed me to explore territories that would never have been possible in a client-oriented environment. It seems it also triggered a strong reaction in very few but very enthusiast collectors, who clearly found appealing the door I opened. Also, when I speak with the owners of our Machines, they are as much touched by WHY we do what we do, as with what we do.
TWL: What aspect of your business are you most proud of? What has been most challenging?
MB: I am extremely proud of having delivered three Machines in the announced timeframe (one a year) with groundbreaking new concepts and engines which actually all work and have close to no technical or quality issues. That is the power of the Friends concept. By empowering all involved, they have achieved an incredible level of performance and quality.
Most challenging is, unfortunately as with most entrepreneurial small companies which start with small initial investments (in this case all my savings), cash-flow management. I have always paid every bill on time, and this demands quite a bit of juggling as we spend over 30% of our small revenue in Research & development of Machines which will only be delivered two to three years down the road.
The amazing MB&F HM No.1 created in conjunction with Eric Giroud, Laurent Besse and Peter Speake-Marin.
TWL: Looking back at the short history of MB&F are there any decisions you would change, if given the opportunity? Why?
MB: In tough economical times like this year, many people show their real personality. Some are extraordinary, others let you down without a thought. It taught me that I was often too candid, but at the end of the day, I will not change because I just don’t want to become paranoid.
TWL: You describe the concept of MB&F as a human adventure, a journey if you will. Are there places, both physical and metaphorical, that this journey has taken you that you never in your lifetime expected to go? How have those experiences changed your life outside of watchmaking?
MB: Clearly, I am not at all the same man I was four years ago. Stronger, more daring, happier to get out of my comfort zone. More importantly I am truly serene. Sometimes, when I think back at how I launched the company without even having 50% of the finances necessary, I smile at how driven and at the same time completely nuts I was. All this has had a very big impact on my personal life: refocusing on the essential, cutting back on all the unimportant frills most people compensate on, and being able to open up much more to others.
The absolutely mind-blowing HM No.3
TWL: How did you go about attracting financing for MB&F? You mentioned that you used all your savings to start this business and this wasn’t even close to enough so how did you get investors to support you?
MB: I needed my head examined… When I think about it today, it makes me shudder. I started the company with practically all my savings which amounted to approx 700’000US$. Now, the development of HM1 necessitated at least double that.
So 4 months after incorporating the company, I took the designs of HM1 and a plastic mould (stereolithography) mimicking its shape, around the world to visit my best Harry Winston retailers. 6 of them not only ordered the equivalent of 25 HM1 altogether but also accepted to prefinance 35% in advance the order, knowing that the first pieces would at the best be delivered 18 to 24 months later.
So when I talk about “Friends” in the term MB&F, you see it goes much further than a symbolic word. Knowing that I refuse any investors into my company, if the retailers had not accepted to prefinance, I would have had no idea how to make this happen!
TWL: Do you feel that you have achieved the goals you have set for MB&F so far? What new challenges lay ahead?
MB: Succeeding against all odds generates an addiction. That of wanting more. More projects, more explorations, wider horizons. I am working for example on an MB&F concept store called the “Mechanical Art Gallery”, which allows me to meet artists specialized in kinetic art. Mind-blowing…
Profile shot of the HM No.3 Starcruiser…wow!
TWL: Are you ever concerned that you might actually run out of ideas?
MB: Never. For whatever reason I have absolutely no doubt about this… They will differ from today’s as I will be evolving in life, but what makes my heart beat is creating and experimenting.
TWL: Most recently you introduced the MB&F HM No2.2 in conjunction with world renowned French designer Alain Silberstein. How difficult was it to manage the creative process and bring your design concepts into cohesion? Did any disagreements arise on how the final piece should look?
MB: I have been engineering creative joint ventures for practically ten years now (the first was Opus One at Harry Winston which we started working on in 2000). Creators’ egos are tricky animals, but I have never really had many issues, because I admire and respect the people I work with. Otherwise I would not ask them to work with me.
With Sage Vaughn (the Only Watch HM2) and now Alain Silberstein, the co-creations were the easiest to develop because on those particular projects I am seeking their input to enrich my creative world. So basically I gave them free reins, and allowed them to express themselves using our model as a base. In a way this is very similar to common practice in the music world where an artist invites another to compose or sing on one of the songs of the album.
TWL: What do you think fans will enjoy most about the new HM No 2.2?
MB: The reason why we did it
TWL: Can you give us any hints of who you would like to work with next and perhaps what we can expect next from the always incredible Maximilian Busser and his Friends?
MB: 2010 will be an incredibly creative year. We are starting to get into full steam mode!
The original HM No.2, a stunning masterpiece!
TWL: Finally, what advice do you have for aspiring watchmakers?
MB: Being a watchmaker is a calling. Too many youngsters in Geneva take on watchmaking school because they know they will get a handsome salary at the end of it. Sitting at your bench all day assembling horological mechanisms is a very tough job. Before you hit the glamorous jobs in the after sales service (where you become a sort of detective or doctor), or for the very few who one day can set up their brand, there are years of painstaking work on the same calibres, which can drive many to quit.
To become a black belt in karate you have to work your way through years of pretty ungrateful moves…
Intrigued? To find out more visit MB&F’s official website.
Interview with Giles English Of Bremont Watches
Nick and Giles English
A few years back now two brothers, Nick and Giles English, had the idea to launch a small watch company in the period preceding what would become one of the largest global economic meltdowns the modern world has ever seen. Despite the financial carnage that ensued, Bremont Watches has flourished under the watchful eyes of these two dedicated businessmen and produced some truly exceptional pieces, including the Supermarine 500, the MB II and most recently the Bremont Norton chronograph. Today, we speak with Giles English about the brand, the winning partnerships they have cultivated and their plans for the future.
TWL: Since the company’s inception just a few short years ago, Bremont has quickly built a strong reputation and loyal following. What do you attribute this success to and what do you think sets the brand apart from the countless other Pilot watches out there?
GE: We are trying to design classical aviation watches that are extremely well made but can be used in the boardroom or up Mount Everest and I think this appeals to people.
Naturally with our background in aviation we know the market well and as new entrants we have to innovate and deliver far more technically than other more established watch companies.
TWL: Bremont watches are well-know for their exceptional build quality and practical design. How long does it take to design and test each new watch you release?
GE: Our latest released watch the Bremont MB has taken us two years to build and test , even with that timescale we are still a month late in delivering it to the shops! Making a dial change is quite easy but changing the design of the case or movement of course takes a lot longer.
TWL: Representing a move away from your traditionally aviation inspired watches Bremont introduced the Supermarine 500 series this year. How important was it to demonstrate that Bremont was capable of creating high quality watches outside of the pilot genre and what challenges did you encounter during the process?
GE: Just about every watch company has a diving watch in their collection but for us we wanted it to be aviation connected and as we have always had an obsession with the original Supermarine SB6 20’s amphibious racing aircraft we had a lot of inspiration for the design. It is not easy creating the vintage feel in a modern watch which does not look dated but I feel we have done it in the Supermarine collection.
As you would expect with a diving watch you are always concerned about the strength of the case/crystal so we over engineered it. As a result it has been certificated as a 1400m diving watch even though we are selling it as a 500m watch due to the fact that the test results came in after we had made the dials saying Supermarine 500. We are also pleased with the way the automatic helium valve is working.
TWL: How do you think this new piece has been received by the market and how do you feel this has impacted on the perception of Bremont as a brand? Are there plans for the future development of watches outside the aviation field?
GE: The reception on the Supermarine watch has been great and people are understanding the link. My view has always been that pilots are adventurous people and mostly have interests that stretch beyond aviation so our watches should also. Our brand ethos has always been about spirit and adventure and we have some other interesting watches in mind.
TWL: Recently Bremont has forged several successful partnerships with brands such as Martin Baker and the Norton Motorcycle Company. How did these relationships come about and what do you look for when seeking out other brands to partner with?
GE: As a small independent watch maker we get approached a lot to make watches for people and the associations have to make sense. With Martin Baker it was clear that they could offer us a unique test facility that could improve our watch making. As a brand not many people have heard of them outside the aviation industry but they are very highly regarded within it.
For Norton they were launching 200 of their new bikes and Nick is a lover of motorbikes and needed little convincing when they approached us. Their styling is also very classic which appealed to us.
We don’t actively seek out brands to partner with but if we get approached and it is the right fit then we will consider it.
TWL: Do you have any other brands in mind that you would like to collaborate with on future projects?
GE: None that are on the cards at the moment, we are too busy trying to deliver the MB.
TWL: Looking back on how things have gone so far and how the brand is currently positioned is there anything you would have done differently?
GE: For us we have been very lucky and I think we have done most things right but in hindsight there are always things that you would change. I think we take too long to develop product and we could always be more commercial but I am always concerned and protective over our brand values. In this industry it is very easy to sell your soul and both Nick and I want to keep ours.
TWL: What aspect of your business are you most proud of and what areas do you think still need improvement?
GE: We have a lot to improve on and we will always be improving, we are looking at some new and interesting movement designs at the moment that we hope to launch in 2011. Our remit is to only change movement designs if it improves the reliability of the watch. This analogy is taken when building engines for aircraft.
The key thing I am most proud of is the feedback we get and the fact that the average Bremont owner generally owns more than one watch, this I feel is a great thing and something to be proud of.
TWL: Finally, what watches are you both wearing right now out of the Bremont collection and why?
GE: I am wearing the Bremont MB prototype and Nick has the prototype ALT1-C cream watch on, one of the first watches we made!
To learn more check out the official Bremont website.
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