That’s right Australian aficionados and collectors, you did not misread the title, we have just received official confirmation today that the highly prized Chapter Two by Maitres du Temps is available right now in Australia. However, you will have to be quick, as there is only one!

Why Does This Matter To You?

It’s simple really.

One of the most common complaints we hear from our Australian readers is that a disproportionate number of the exceptional timepieces we feature here on The Watch Lounge never quite make it to their distant shores. As a result many are forced to venture overseas, when possible, to satisfy their cravings for high quality craftsmanship and unparalleled expertise.

However, all that is about to change, thanks in large part to the incredible vision of one man who will be opening a brand new luxury boutique in Sydney later this year (and no, that man is not me.)

Whilst we can’t divulge too many details, what we can tell you is that this man has a superb eye for quality and a strong desire to give sophisticated Australian consumers the opportunity to buy timepieces that have never before been seen in this country let alone been available for purchase.

Which brings us back to Maitres du Temps and the Chapter Two. For those of you not familiar with the brand we strongly recommend that you read the in-depth two-part special feature we published on the brand earlier this year in conjunction with their Founder Steven Holtzman (read Part.1 here and Part.2 here.)

Some of our Melbourne and Sydney-based readers may recognize the name Peter Speake-Marin (another famed independent watch-maker) who visited Australia recently and was also one of the watch-makers behind the Chapter 2.

Now on to the piece itself.

Images are for illustration purposes only and are not of the actual piece for sale.

The Chapter Two
The Chapter Two is the result of the collaboration of two master watch-makers; Daniel Roth, a veteran of the Swiss watch industry renowned for his incredibly complicated timepieces and Peter Speake-Marin, one of the industry’s best up-and-coming independent watch-makers.

The goal was to produce the most readable triple calendar wristwatch on the market through the use of two specially made (and deceptively complex) rollers which display the month and the date. The rollers and big date are instantaneous, so the custom built automatic movement was designed to store enough energy during the day to move all of the date functions at the same time, which by all accounts took a great deal of expertise and ingenuity to perfect.

Presented in a very attractive tonneau case, the Chapter Two features bright, diamond cut, solid gold hands, small seconds and a two-disc big date indicator at the 12 o’clock position, which finishes off the watch very nicely.

As with many high-end watches, it is the little touches that really set it apart. For example, the 22K solid-gold winding rotor has a beautiful basket weave pattern (panier guilloche) engraved upon it. What many people don’t know though is this exceptional finishing is thanks to the skills of a retired master engraver known to Daniel Roth, who was persuaded to help them out only three days before he was due to dispose of all his tools. What a way to finish a career!

Images are for illustration purposes only and are not of the actual piece for sale.

What You Need To Know
As the piece has arrived early it is being offered by the seller as a pre-sale piece ahead of the opening of their brand new, Sydney-based boutique later this year. The Australian retail price of the Chapter Two is $95,000 AUD (inc GST) and as we mentioned before there is only one available for sale in Australia, so if you are interested you must act quickly.

Please submit all expressions of interest to us via email and we will put you in immediate contact with the Sydney based seller.

Please feel free to email us also if you would like any further information and stay tuned for further updates on the pending announcement of Sydney’s newest luxury boutique.

The Final Word
This is a very unique opportunity to purchase an outstanding timepiece conceived and realized by two of the world’s greatest living watch-makers. For collectors and admirers alike this timepiece is an absolute must and will undoubtedly take your breath away every time you marvel at its mechanical complexity and superior craftsmanship.

If you are interested in acquiring this piece please email us now and we will gladly connect you with the seller.

It was with somewhat mixed emotions earlier this month that we learnt of the decision by master craftsmen Greubel Forsey to end the production of their breathtaking Double Tourbillon 30° Contemporaine models (which includes Vision and Secret models.) We say mixed emotions because on the one hand it is always a little sad to farewell such an iconic timepiece, however, at the same time one can’t help but be excited by the prospect of what amazing new invention will be unveiled to fill its place.

A Momentous Occasion
If you’re not familiar with the brand then you may not fully appreciate the significance of this decision to the company and its founders, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey. The fact is though that this particular line forms a major cornerstone of the brand’s history as it is the timepiece which catapulted Greubel Forsey into the spotlight when it was first launched back in 2004. The complexity, and ensuing success of this timepiece, formed the basis for the legitimacy of the inventions that followed.

However, Greubel Forsey is an inventor and an innovator first and foremost and as such the focus of their energy and investment dollars must always be on the future. Hence, whilst the decision has not been made lightly, it has most certainly been made for the right reasons and aficionados of the brand will most certainly reap the benefits of this shift in direction.

Before the brand boldly sets off to explore uncharted new territory, however, it is only fitting that this iconic collection is given a suitable send off. And so, to celebrate the end of the fairytale story of the Double Tourbillon 30° Contemporaine, the company has created two unique series, the “Edition Historique”:

• 11 pieces in 5N red gold, and

• 11 pieces in platinum.

The Edition Historique
The beauty of every Greubel Forsey timepiece is that the complexity is not just limited to the mechanics, although the inner-workings of the double tourbillon system are in themselves mindblowing. Still, it is the absolute, uncompromising attention paid to every intricate detail that makes these pieces truly special. For example, the Edition Historique features  an exclusive new gold dial that integrates three sapphire-crystal plates. Providing the finishing touch these complex insertions are engraved and enhanced by 3D structured text.

Similarly the bezel with beveled relief ensures the final edition of this iconic series has its own subtle yet original look. It is undeniably a new interpretation of the style of the earlier models while still retaining the intrinsic design features of a Greubel Forsey timepiece.

Like the other Greubel Forsey timepieces, the Double Tourbillon 30° expresses the inventive thinking of its creators, constantly seeking to challenge convention and create things of true magnificence. Visually, you will also discover the 3D structured text on the dial and engraved hand-decorated curved plates affixed to the sides of the case extolling the philosophy and skill of these master artisans.

The Final Word
You don’t have to search these pages long to discover that we are completely enamored with Greubel Forsey, and with good reason. Whilst the time has come to bid farewell to a legend we believe that a more than fitting tribute has been created to mark this momentous occasion in the short history of this superb Atelier.

We can say with absolute confidence that this special edition, unlike many others, will exponentially increase in value over time and would most certainly make an invaluable addition to your collection, both for its artistic beauty and mechanical complexity, as well as for the historic milestone it represents.

That’s assuming you can get your hands on one. Make no mistake, these will sell out. Fast.

To find out more visit the official Greubel Forsey website: www.greubelforsey.com

Think of one of the most unique, innovative and just down-right cool timepieces you have ever seen and then imagine it dressed in all black. That’s exactly what super exclusive luxury watch-maker Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps (MCT) have done and the result, the all new Sequential One All Black, is nothing short of superb.

In fact, quite frankly, we think this is one of the most sophisticated and seductive timepieces we’ve ever seen. However, don’t take our word for it, read on and judge for yourselves.

MCT Watches
If you’re not familiar with MCT Watches then you have most certainly been missing out. Comprised of an extremely talented team of watch-makers led by their pioneering founder Denis Giguet, MCT’s first creation, the highly acclaimed Sequential One, became an instant hit with collector’s and connoisseurs the world over.

And it’s not hard to see why.

The Sequential One is a complex masterpiece where each function is based on a combination of elements rotating on three dimensional axes, at different speeds and moments. It is more complicated than a tourbillion and each timepiece takes many days to assemble in MCT’s Geneva Atelier.

Conceived by Giguet and then designed in conjunction with another very famous player in the industry, watch designer extraordinaire Eric Giroud (read our exclusive interview with him here) the Sequential One represented the culmination of everything Giguet had learned during his time as the Head of Production at Harry Winston, overseeing the production of the famous Opus series (1 – 6).

A self-confessed passionate student of the last 200 years of Swiss high horology Giguet says he has a great respect for the watches made by his peers but at the same time acknowledges his ever present desire to create his own vision.

“I aim to ‘change the face of time’ by using new and quite unique movements and visual displays, always featuring a large and distinctive Hour indicator” he explains. “Many expensive watches have appeared with weird and wonderful designs but they often have very little functionality. Our customers tell us that they now want to buy “real” watches, not pure objects of fantasy.”

Even still, we can’t help but think there is something distinctively magical about this latest offering. Perhaps even…Black Magic?

The All Black Treatment
Available from June this year as a very special limited production model of just 20 pieces a year worldwide, we predict the Sequential One All Black will be an even bigger success with collectors than the original model.

Don’t believe us?

Well, the first 10 pieces for 2010 have already been pre-sold, so if you are considering adding one of these exceptional timepieces to your collection our advice would be not to wait too long. If you’re not yet convinced, read on and we think you might change your mind.

As you can see the distinctive case has received a carbon black DLC treatment using Gold as the base metal, resulting in an elegantly sculpted, sophisticated timepiece without compare. The black alligator leather strap, complete with dynamic red stitching, ensures that the Sequential One All Black fits snugly to your wrist, held in place by the unique MCT gold deployment buckle which is presented in a mix of gold and gold with black DLC treatment.

Just like the original model the stunning dial display comprises over-sized Hour numerals on 12 prism faces and a jumping, sapphire crystal dial, which combines with a single gold hand to indicate the Minutes. However, in this limited edition the prism faces have received a special dark coating which may seem like a minor detail but it really makes the large numerals stand out in contrast.

On the rear of the watch a sapphire exhibition case-back allows for unobstructed views of the breathtaking in-house designed and assembled movement which has been coated with Black DLC and contrasts superbly with the gold highlights.

It’s important to take a moment here to fully appreciate the significance of an in-house designed and assembled movement as it is rare these days that companies design such complex masterpieces themselves, preferring instead to outsource this task. However, for Giguet, this was never an option;

“The starting point for me in designing Sequential One was to develop and build an exclusive in-house MCT movement which we have called the ‘Jumping Sequential Hour’. It is rare for Swiss watch brands to have their own movement but for me it is a pre-requisite for any authentic, high horology company.”

As such, whilst some external suppliers were utilized to machine some of the parts required, the design and assembly process as well as quality-control testing was performed in-house by Denis and MCT’s own team of watchmakers, comprising head watch-maker Jérome Marcu, Baptiste Guye and Alexandre Bonnet. Therefore, for those fortunate enough to own one of these outstanding machines, they will have the peace of mind knowing that all servicing will also be conducted in-house by Jerôme and his highly trained team.

The Final Word
It is not often that we see limited edition re-imaginings of original models that really capture our imagination and cause us to re-examine everything we thought about their original incarnations. The MB&F HM 3 ‘The Frog’ is such a timepiece, as is the Urwerk UR-CC1 Black Cobra. Now, we have a third watch to add to this extremely exclusive list, the Sequential One All Black.

Never could we have imagined that MCT could do anything to this masterful timepiece to make us desire it any more than we already did (which was a lot for the record!) and yet they have. Not by making it more complicated or fancy, but instead by refining it and allowing its ever present elegance and sophistication to truly shine through.

What ever form of magic is at play here, black or otherwise, we have most certainly fallen under its enchanting spell.

To learn more visit MCT’s official website – www.mctwatches.com

The unveiling of MB&F’s HM No.4 on July 7 is arguably one of the most highly anticipated events on this year’s holological calendar. After presenting the mouthwatering HM4 engine at Basel World earlier this year, speculation has been raging as to what could be in store for the brand’s die hard enthusiasts the world over.

The movement itself was 3 years and 311 parts in the making, all of which were created, even the balance wheel and hairspring, specifically for this piece. Now it gives us great pleasure to present to you the very first image of all the new HM No.4 (above). Precious few details can be gleaned from the picture other than we know we want one already!

It doesn’t help things when the brand’s founder and design visionary, Maximilian Büsser, declares that the Horological Machine No4 THUNDERBOLT will be the brand’s most radical creation to date… And if you think we’re exaggerating, why don’t you check out the most recent piece MB&F unveiled just over 2 months ago, known simply as ‘The Frog‘.

All we can say is bring on July 7!

Well, it’s the finale of our special series on the Origins of Legends, where we’ve featured the original sketches of some of the best known (and unknown) brands in the world. It’s been quite a journey of artistic and intellectual enlightenment and as it draws to an end we are proud to present to you our final set of sketches from one our personal favorites. MB&F.

In just a few short years MB&F, lead by their truly inspirational founder Maximilian Büsser, have developed a cult following around the world for their unique, bold designs that continually challenge the commonly accepted conventions of watch-making. In this final series of sketches we focus on all three MB&F models presented to date, with a special focus on HM No.1, as after all, that is where it all began.

Be warned though, there are a lot of images, so you may want to take a moment to ensure there will be no distractions for the next few minutes (hours?) before you proceed.

Enjoy!

Those of you with a keen attention to detail may notice that the logo “B&F” appears in some of the original sketches of HM No.1. Although it’s a little known fact, this was actually the originally proposed name – Büsser & Friends. We think Max and his team made the right decision adding in the ‘M’, what do you think?

HM No.1

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

HM No.2

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

HM No.3

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

We sincerely hope you’ve enjoyed our special insight on the Origin of Legends. If you missed the earlier articles please see here for Part 1, Part 2 and http://thewatchlounge.com/the-origin-of-legends-%E2%80%93-the-sketch-book-series-part-3/.

Regular readers of The Watch Lounge would no doubt be familiar with the brilliance of the Dutch Master watch-making brothers Tim and Bart Grönefeld (if not, read about them here, here and here). Famed for their exceptional GTM-06 Tourbillon Minute Repeater (the most complicated wristwatch ever created in the Netherlands) the brothers also successfully launched the Grönefeld Boutique in Holland late last year, featuring the likes of Speake-Marin, Sarpaneva and Kees Engelbarts. Now it gives us great pleasure to share their newest creation with you, the Grönefeld One Hertz 1912.

Consistently exceeding expectations
As we have come to expect from such accomplished craftsmen the 1912 is as brilliant as it is unassuming. Classic good looks belie just how complicated this timepiece is, making it exceptionally attractive to true connoisseurs of Haute Horology.

Presented in a 43mm stainless steel case complete with polished bezel and center band and hand-finished straight graining, the resplendent dial displays an hour and minutes sub-dial, a seconds sub-dial, a power reserve indicator and a setting and winding indicator (more on that later). Just looking at this piece one can’t help but be drawn in by its subdued aesthetic beauty, which to the untrained eye would seem to be the main feature of this piece, yet it has so much more than that to offer.

You see, this timepiece is the first and only mechanical wristwatch with independent deadbeat seconds ever produced.

What does that mean exactly?
Well take a second to look down at the superb timepiece on your wrist right now. Chances are that if you are reading this it is of the mechanical variety, be it manual wound or automatic. Now, if you are fortunate enough to have a seconds hand, you will notice that it sweeps through its 60-second journey around the dial.

The seconds hand on the One Hertz 1912, however, does not sweep. It ticks.

Yes, we know what you’re thinking, why would you want it to tick, isn’t that the hallmark of a cheap quartz watch? Ordinarily, yes. In this case, however, it is a celebration of mechanical complexity and ingenuity. You see the driving force behind the concept of dead beat seconds is accuracy. From the wearer’s point of view it is far easier to precisely track the passing of seconds using this sort of display than the common sweeping seconds hand.

So why is this such an achievement?
Well consider this, in order for the seconds hand to be as accurate as possible the supply of power has to be consistently delivered. Therefore, the friction of the mechanism has to be absolutely minimal so it does not interfere with the escapement. To overcome this challenge, the brothers developed a dead beat seconds mechanism that is driven from its own secondary gear train with its own power supply. This means then that the seconds are driven from one mainspring barrel and the hours and minutes from another.

What makes it even more special, however, is that the two mainspring barrels are wound simultaneously from the same crown, meaning that there is no need for secondary crowns or additional winding. As a finishing touch the 1912 also features a highly innovative “push to set, push to wind” function, with the selected mode selected indicated on the dial at 3 o’clock. A power reserve indicator above the deadbeat seconds dial monitors the life-cycle of the 60-hour power supply.

Presented on a hand-sewn, matte black alligator leather strap the 1912 One Hertz will be available in a highly limited production of just 12 pieces.

The Final Word
It really is hard not to be impressed by the outstanding craftsmanship and mechanical accomplishments of Tim and Bart Grönefeld. In our opinion this is what true watch-making is all about. Elegant, refined pieces designed to last lifetimes that have no need to broadcast their exemplary technical credentials. This is a piece that will most certainly appeal to collectors, who undoubtedly will take great pleasure in the knowledge that to most people this is just another timepiece, albeit a rather attractive one.

For the lucky few however, the connection will be personal, an intimate understanding of a most brilliant yet unassuming timepiece.

For more information check out their official website: www.gronefeld.nl/

This article is also available in French. Please click here.

Ok, so it’s ‘Wow Watch Wednesday’ and yesterday at the end of Part.2 of our special feature on the origins of some of the world’s most well-known luxury watches we promised you something a little out of the ordinary in today’s entry. We’ve already shown you the mind-blowing finished products watch-maker Urwerk is capable of producing (see here for the jaw-dropping UR-CC1 Black Cobra if you missed it earlier today) but now we are going to show you where it all began: the drawing board.

So, without further delay, we present the Urwerk collection.

UR-103 – Early Model

©Urwerk

©Urwerk

©Urwerk

©Urwerk

UR-103

©Urwerk

©Urwerk

UR-201

©Urwerk

©Urwerk

©Urwerk

©Urwerk

UR-CC1 – The Cobra!

©Urwerk

©Urwerk

We don’t know about you but we are pretty breathless after taking all that in! Stay tuned for Part.4 as we continue on our journey of the Origin of Legends!

As if you needed another reason to be completely enthralled by Swiss watch-maker Urwerk. Be careful though, this one bites! Officially announced yesterday the mind-blowing UR-CC1 has shed its grey gold skin to unveil a lethal black cobra beneath. As dark as it is mesmerizing, the UR-CC1 in black AlTiN will entrance you with its aggressive style and baffling mechanical complexity. Not for the faint hearted, this is one timepiece that must be approached with respect and caution.

Superbly Complex
The stealth-like styling and relatively simple display of this truly sensational piece from Urwerk mask just how superbly complex the mechanism actually is. Holding the piece face on you confronted with two very unusual but nonetheless simplistic looking indications: jumping hours and retrograde minutes. You see, on the UR-CC1 the hours and minutes count down the time by moving linearly.

To the uninformed that sounds like a rather unremarkable statement. Right now you’re probably looking at the clean, yellow dials and thinking “sure, it looks cool, but should I really be that impressed?” The answer is a resounding yes because the mechanism you see in front of you is so deceptively complex that it took the brilliant team at Urwerk more than three years of research and development and ten prototypes to overcome the technical challenges involved in indicating the hours and minutes in a linear fashion.

Why?
We’re glad you asked!

There were three main engineering challenges standing in the way:

• The movement could develop enough energy to operate the imposing minute cylinder, which is much heavier than a traditional hand, but where to find the additional energy to function the jumping hour cylinder?

• A toothed rack moves vertically to rotate the minutes, but how to ensure that it operates smoothly in all positions, despite the varying effects of the immutable laws of gravity?

• Having solved the power issues related to operating the jumping hours, how to ensure that there is enough energy available for the world-premiere digital seconds?

Still, these seemingly insurmountable challenges were not enough to deter the team from achieving their goal, and here’s how they did it.

Let’s Get Technical
A toothed rack/lever, visible through a display panel on the side of the “Black Cobra” transfers energy from the movement to the minute cylinder. The honeycomb structure of the lever offers the two seemingly contradictory properties of lightness and rigidity. Rigidity to accurately convey the profile of the triple cam to the minute cylinder, and extremely light/low mass so as to consume as little energy as possible and so that position, gravity and shocks have minimal effect.

The mechanism used is reminiscent of those seen in automata. A toothed segment at the end of a rack exactly moves up and down following the path drawn by the triple cam – a path that has been plotted from 104 reference points. Each of the three cams drives the rack for exactly 60 minutes. At precisely 60 minutes the rack drops on the cam provoking the opposite tooth-end of the rack to fall, which triggers the retrograde mechanism and rotates the minute cylinder. And all of this happens in just 1/10th of a second!

The energy released by the retrograde mechanism is recovered and used to power the rotation of the jumping hour cylinder. Visible through a display panel in the side of the case, a 12 pointed star and positioning spring are the only distinguishable components of this innovative mechanism for recycling energy.

Two essential elements, the disk for the digital seconds and the honeycombed rack, anchor the “Black Cobra” in cutting-edge technology. Photolithography was the only method able to provide the degree of accuracy and low mass required by these two critical components – the seconds’ disk weighs just 0.09 of a gram!

The Final Word
Felix Baumgartner, Urwerk’s ingenious Master watch-maker sums it up by saying; “We have created a monster that is hungry (for energy) so we have ensured that all forces can be recycled and reused. It is a very delicate balance as we work within fixed constraints, i.e. available force, mass, and current production technology, and then we go beyond our capabilities.”

…wow.

A special thanks to Urwerk for making all this excellent technical information available to us so that we could share it with you. Make sure you jump on their Facebook Page to get all the latest updates from this truly amazing company!

This article is also available in French. Please click here.

Welcome to Part.2 of our special insight on the origins of some the world’s most amazing watches. If you missed Part.1 be sure to check it out here. Today we present to you the original sketches of two exceptional pieces; the DualTow by Christophe Claret and the Jules Audemars by Audemars Piguet. Looking at these images (the first set especially) it really is hard to believe just how superb the final results are!

However, as they say, the creative process isn’t always pretty but it’s the results that count.

Christophe Claret – The DualTow

©Christophe Claret

©Christophe Claret

©Christophe Claret

Audemars Piguet – Jules Audemars

©Audemars Piguet

©Audemars Piguet

©Audemars Piguet

In keeping with The Watch Lounge’s tradition of “Wow Watch Wednesday” the sketches to be published tomorrow in Part.3 of this multi-part series will be something a little out of the ordinary which we think you’re going to enjoy!

This article is also available in French. Please click here.

If you’re anything like us than at on at least one occasion you’ve looked at the exceptional timepiece on your wrist and wondered where it all began. We think you’ll agree that watch-making is as much about practical application as it is about aesthetical beauty, with the best examples achieving a stunning blend of both. And so it is then that the design of a fine timepiece is almost, if not as important as the tiny engine that beats within it.

As we sometimes find ourselves fortunate enough to share the precious time of the world’s great watchmakers through the year, we had the tremendous opportunity on several occasions to see some of the very first sketches of their creations.

Some confessed they are very bad draftsmen while others told us that they were always innately skilled in the design of beautiful watches. Some never draw without proper pens and a clear space, while some express their creative mind on the corner of tablecloths, or even on post-its, with the very first pen they find sketching as fast as they can, before The Big Idea flies away (Editor’s note: For anyone who has been fortunate enough to dine with the exceptionally talented Roland Iten you will know all to well that he falls into the latter category, drawing the most amazing sketches all over any surface, including the table!)

Still, we recognize that there is only so much that can be said with words and so we are not going to write long paragraphs about all these beautiful sketches which, in the end, speak for themselves.

We won’t tell you that Ludovic Ballouard always has a notebook by his side, where he scribbles down ideas that only he can decipher; or that Jean-Claude Biver, as he draws, already has a rough idea of what the final product will look like; that Christophe Claret elucidated in just a few minutes the core essence of the amazing Dual Tow; that Jaeger Le Coultre draws sketches that are so perfect that they almost compete with automated software design.

Instead, we will just let you enjoy these beautiful pieces over the coming week. Make sure you check each day to discover where it all began and to learn just a little more about the timepieces you know and love (and maybe even some you’re meeting for the first time!)

Montblanc Metamorphosis

©Montblanc

©Montblanc

©Montblanc

©Montblanc

©Montblanc

Ludovic Ballouard – Upside Down Watch

©Ludovic Ballouard

©Ludovic Ballouard

©Ludovic Ballouard

©Ludovic Ballouard

©Wai Shan Lam

©Wai Shan Lam

Linde Werdelin – The One

©Linde Werdelin

©Linde Werdelin

Be sure to check back tomorrow as we bring you Part.2 of the Sketch Book Series!