Posts Tagged ‘Swiss Made’
Exclusive: Max Büsser of MB&F Talks Us Through The All New HM3 Frog!
HM3 Black Frog (black Titanium) – limited edition of 12 pieces ©MB&F
You may recall that a few weeks ago we published a photo of the first and only hint presented by MB&F in relation to their latest creation, known simply as the Frog. Now we are proud to be able to bring you the official photos of this breathtaking new piece, unveiled only a short while ago!
Modeled on the HM No.3 the hour and minute gears as well as date system within the 304 part engine have been entirely modified. The trademark sapphire domes have been perfectly machined on both sides (no mean feat!) so as not deform the numbers and even more amazingly the aluminium domes within weigh just a meager 0.58g which was achieved by machining them down to a thickness of 0.28mm. Only 32 of these special movements will be crafted this year: a limited edition of 12 pieces in black titanium (with green gold rotor) and 20 pieces of a non-limited titanium version (with blue gold rotor).
Although we could go on about this amazing new piece all day we thought you would probably prefer to hear it straight from the man himself, Mr Maximilian Büsser. So we asked him.
Here’s what he had to say.
TWL: What made you choose a Frog as the inspiration for this latest piece? Why not a Tiger or a Cobra, or some other member of the Animal Kingdom?
MB: The creative process did not in fact start with a frog. Like most of our creations, I imagined the piece in my mind first as a “concept piece”, in this case based on the HM3 movement. The idea was, and I know this will seem more than a little surprising, to create a “whacky” version of the HM3. Many will think “isn’t the HM3 crazy enough?”. In my mind, the HM3 is in fact a very elegant piece, and I wanted to push it into another territory.
It is only when we finished the design with Eric (Giroud) that when I looked at it, it was clear that it looked like a frog’s head coming out of water with its two big eyes. Now over a year later, when I look at it, it makes me think of the Martian heads in “Mars Attacks”!
HM3 Frog (Titanium) ©MB&F
TWL: How many different design concepts did you come up with in conjunction with the ‘Friends’ before you settled on the final one we see today? How did you decide?
MB: This was pretty straight forward. The HM3 existed. I wanted a rotating dome version, and we nailed the design very quickly – but to get the proportions of the aluminium and sapphire domes right we did many prototypes…
TWL: Does the final piece look anything like what you first envisioned in your mind when you set out to create this unique model?
MB: That is it. As it was in my head.
TWL: What is your favorite aspect of this new piece and why?
MB: It makes me smile each time I look at it. The Frog has a very mischievous attitude to it. Also it is super light thanks to the intensive use of aluminium. You practically do not feel it on your wrist.
TWL: What do you think MB&F enthusiasts will like most about this newest addition?
MB: I honestly don’t know. As we create foremost for ourselves, our public’s reaction is always a mystery and a surprise!
The HM3 Frog Engine – 304 components ©MB&F
TWL: Are there any little intricacies you can point out for us that may not be immediately apparent just from looking at the still photographs?
MB: Well, first of all, more than 30% of the movement is different from the original HM3! The Hours run in 12 hours instead of 24, the minutes in 60 minutes instead of 120 minutes, which therefore required us to change all those gear trains. Also the changing of the date which was direct (as the hours turned previously in 24hours on the HM3) is now much more complicated to achieve. All this for only 32 movements this year… (13 Black and 20 Titanium)
The aluminium domes needed to be as light as possible, which meant we had to machine them down to 0,28mm thick and therefore to 0,58 grams a piece! And the sapphire domes were a headache. How do you machine a perfectly concentric dome from a block of sapphire, especially as there is no way to hold that block in the machine when you are cutting it…?
TWL: Are there any plans to release any further special editions prior to the introduction of the highly anticipated HM No.4 in July 2010?
MB: The HM4 will theoretically be unveiled on July 8th (with deliveries anticipated for last quarter of the year), so in the two months from now to beginning of July, we have not planned a new launch!
TWL: As always, thank you for your time Maximilian.
MB: As always a pleasure. Thanks Tom!
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GMT Italia – Home To Some Of The World’s Most Amazing Timepieces
It is not often that you come across an authorized retailer that deals in some of the most exclusive timepieces in the world. That’s why we felt obliged to share something extra special with you today. Based in Milan, Italy, with another store in Porto Cervo, Sardinia, the Grand Masters of Time is Italy’s answer to France’s Chronopassion.
Established in 2007 the focus of this young company is to bring together some of the most exclusive and innovative names in Swiss watch-making, working closely with the brands to offer their clients a selection of some of the finest timepieces ever made.
Don’t just take our word for it though, see below for a selection of some of the current rare and limited edition pieces they currently have on offer within their stunning boutiques.
F.P. Journe – Centigraphe Souverain
© GMT Italia
MB&F – Horological Machine 2 – White Ceramic (L.E. 5 pieces for the World)
© GMT Italia
Harry Winston – Ocean Chrono Tri-Retrograde Baguette (L.E. 5 pieces for the world)
© GMT Italia
Richard Mille – RM 008 Tourbillon Split Second Chronograph
© GMT Italia
Harry Winston – Project Zalium Lady Z (L.E. 300 pieces for the World)
© GMT Italia
Urwerk 202 – Turbine Automatic Black Platinum (L.E. 10 pieces for the World)
© GMT Italia
Harry Winston – Project Zalium Z5 (L.E. 150 pieces for the World)
© GMT Italia
These are just a small selection of some of the truly amazing pieces that GMT have brought together in their two exceptional stores. Certainly for any watch enthusiast who finds themselves in the vicinity of either one a visit is all but mandatory.
If you would like to know more check out the GMT website: www.gmtitalia.com
The Corum Admiral’s Cup Deep Hull 48 – Bold Is Beautiful
As an industry observer it is always enjoyable to see a once strong brand surge back on the scene after a period of relative inactivity. Corum is such a brand, seeming almost dormant for a while and then out of nowhere surprising us (quite pleasantly we might say) in 2009, demanding our attention with the launch of their second in-house movement and a number of novelties, including variations of the very unique Ti-Bridge series.
In 2010 the brand has continued to build on this momentum introducing two new Golden Bridge pieces as well as a special edition deep sea diving watch, the Admiral’s Cup Deep Hull 48, which we have to say is absolutely superb.
Still, those familiar with the brand know to expect nothing less.
A Brief History
For those of you not so well acquainted with Corum, it’s important to know a little of their history to truly appreciate the brand’s most admired characteristics. Founded in 1955 in the spiritual home of watch-making, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Corum was created by a young and talented watch-maker by the name of Rene Bannwart. After having worked for several other prestigious brands he decided it was time for him to establish his own identity as a watch-maker. To do this he enlisted the help of his uncle, Gaston Ries and together the two set about building a brand that was unlike any other.
The goal was simple, Corum wanted to be positioned at the forefront of Swiss watch-making, pioneering new concepts in design and expression. Perhaps the burning ambition the two men shared is best illustrated by the brand’s emblem, a key pointing skywards. Not only is this indicative of the brand’s pioneering and innovative spirit, but also their desire to conquer new territories and quite simply put, become the masters of time.
Yet, it wasn’t until 1966 when Jean-Rene Bannwart, Rene’s son, joined the company that the brand’s identity as we know it today was truly established. He is credited with creating the models which were to become Corum’s trademark, especially the topic of today’s post and arguably Corum’s most recognised series, the Admiral Cup.
Many years later highly successful entrepreneur and philanthropist Severin Wunderman purchased the Corum brand and when questioned about his plans for the future, he replied;
“Making watches that meet the criteria of savoir faire and aesthetics with the daring approach that has always characterized Corum.”
And certainly it would seem that he has achieved that goal. Today Corum has grown from small private label watch factory into an internationally acclaimed brand, infamous for its unique sense of style.
Which brings us to the focus of this article.
The Admiral’s Cup Deep Hull 48
2010 marks the 50th anniversary of the birth of Corum’s yacht-inspired Admiral’s Cup series and so to celebrate this special occasion the brand unveiled a special limited edition model designed for the requirements of deep-sea diving. Aptly named the Deep Hull 48, this new piece will be produced in a limited series of two versions – one in titanium, and the other in black PVD titanium.
Without a doubt the new Deep Hull is a striking watch, not least of all thanks to its imposing 48mm diameter. Yet its bold style is also one of its most attractive qualities. This is distinctly a Corum timepiece, the trademark masculinity of the Admiral Cup design is unmistakable and it somehow manages the neat feat of being unique without appearing too unusual or over the top.
From a practical point of the view the Deep Hull embodies everything one expects from a top quality dive watch. Functionality takes centre stage and has not been compromised in any way for the sake of aesthetics. The clean, uncluttered dial is easy to read and has received more than ample luminescent treatment ensuring it remains highly visible under water.
And trust us you’re going to need all the luminosity you can get where you’re going.
The Deep Hull is rated to an impressive 1,000m of water resistance (we’re told it gets pretty dark down there) and as you would expect is equipped with a fully functioning automatic helium escape valve (what is this?) and unidirectional rotating elapsed time bezel.
Powering this mighty beast is a self-winding mechanical movement, the Corum CO947, which has obtained COSC certification and is therefore officially a chronometer. (Not sure what that means? Read all about it here.) The mechanism allows rapid adjustments to the day and date indications via the crown, and it also features a hacking seconds function to enable exact setting with a time signal. Power reserve of the barrel is 42 hours.
Available in a limited production of 500 pieces in titanium and just 155 examples in black PVD-finished titanium, all models are fitted with a 24mm rubber strap bearing the Corum signature and a wide titanium prong buckle.
The Final Word
We absolutely love this piece for what it is; bold, unforgiving and resolutely masculine. The Deep Hull 48 represents all the exceptional qualities Corum has come to be so well known for and we can say with confidence that this is truly a timepiece that has been designed to be worn, not just admired. Instantly recognizable thanks to its unique style and trademark design the Deep Hull 48 is a not so subtle reminder of what this great brand is truly capable of.
We’ve certainly been converted!
Interview With Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of Hublot
Recently Swiss watch-maker Hublot has announced unique partnerships with two of the greatest sporting events in the world; Formula One and the FIFA World Cup. Whilst these by no means represent the brand’s first foray into the sporting world, think the Mexican Football Federation, Bode Miller, Diego Maradona and many others, they are arguably the most ambitious to date.
We were very interested to hear how these exciting partnerships came about and so we decided to go straight to the source. Fortunately for us (and you), Hublot CEO, Mr Jean-Claude Biver, was gracious enough to grant us the opportunity to ask a few questions about these recent announcements and what they mean to Hublot.
Here’s what he had to say.
TWL: Hublot has made a point of engaging in partnerships within the sporting world such as Manchester United and Alinghi. What is the reasoning behind this and what does the brand gain from these partnerships?
JCB: Our involvement in sport is motivated because sport belongs partly to the world of our customers. And our objective is clearly to belong to the world of the consumer. Be it in the materials he is surrounded with (Carbon, Kevlar, Ceramic and so on) or in his leisure and holiday activities represented through sport.
TWL: What was the motivation behind pursuing these two particular partnerships, do you feel a certain personal connection with them or was the decision made purely from a commercial standpoint?
JCB: We never enter any sport or event because of personal connections or preferences. Our decisions are motivated through our customers. Wherever our customer goes, he must meet Hublot. It is our goal to make the customer feel that we belong to his world, to his life style, to his emotions and to his dreams.
TWL: What were the main challenges you faced when you first set out to make these partnerships a reality and how did you overcome them?
JCB: The main challenge was to believe that we had the right concept. Usually brands decide to link themselves to one or two sports. We on the contrary decided we should link ourselves to our customers. And meet him wherever he goes. On the sea, on the GP circuit, on the football Stadium, on the Polo Field and so on.
TWL: From a strategic perspective how important was it for you to secure these partnerships and do you expect they will contribute to further enhancing the brand’s credibility and reputation as a watch-maker on an international scale?
JCB: It was important for us to be the First, or to be Unique, or to be Different. With Football we were the first luxury watch brand to enter Football. It is difficult to believe but both the Euro and the World Cup have never had an “Official Timekeeper”, nor an “Official Watch”. It has now become crucial for Hublot to maintain its exclusivity at this level of sponsorship. Both in F1 and Football.
TWL: Involvement with events of this magnitude will undoubtedly help grow Hublot’s global profile. Do you hope to capitalise on this by introducing and distributing the brand into new markets, or will you continue to focus on strengthening your position within existing markets for the time being?
JCB: We will focus on strengthening our position within the existing markets. But we have clearly to improve our distribution and awareness in China. As we have only started to enter China in March 2009, we have still a long way to go. But for sure our involvement in F1 and the Football World Cup will increase dramatically the awareness of Hublot, which is of course very positive for our future.
TWL: Can you give us any hints on what we can expect from the Hublot 2010 FIFA World Cup timepieces? Will there be a different watch for every competing country or will there just be FIFA inspired pieces?
JCB: In 2010 we will introduce only one piece (a Classic Fusion in 18 ct Pink Gold) limited to 100 pieces only. But from next year on, we will work on additional special editions both for Brazil in 2014 and also some special editions for historical World Cups since 1930.
TWL: Finally, does Hublot have its eye on any other events, sporting or otherwise, it would like to become involved in or will the focus remain on these most recent announcements for the foreseeable future?
JCB: We must always have our eyes and ears open. One has constantly to listen to the market and be able to evolve and change. The world is not static and a brand has to constantly adapt its concepts, products and DNA to the changes.
TWL: Thank you for taking the time to speak with The Watch Lounge Mr. Biver.
JCB: Thank you.
How To Move Forwards While Looking Backwards – Innovation In The Watch Industry Part.4
In Part.3 we looked at how young watch-maker Romain Jerome is attempting to turn a concept into an icon, with the on-going development of their DNA of Famous Legends series. Today, we turn our attention to another, far more established brand who has already achieved all that and so much more. The challenges they face are somewhat different yet overcoming them are just as integral to the brands continued success.
The question is, how can you be innovative and forward-looking when so much of your brand’s identity is so inherently linked to one particular series ?
The Icon
It’s fair to say that when most people (well watch people anyway) think of Audemars-Piguet, they think of the Royal Oak series. To such an extent some might argue, that it almost seems like the other references live in the shadow of their famous big brother. Rest assured though that these other magnificent pieces, such as the Jules Audemars or the Millenary, are alive and well, and continue to reflect the sublime expertise of this highly respected Manufacture.
Nonetheless though, is it possible that the Royal Oak in someway inhibits the brand’s ability to grow, its ability to create and attract new interest? Arnaud Vidal, General Manager of Audemars Piguet France certainly doesn’t think so:
“Without any hesitation, no. The Royal Oak is for us and for our clients an iconic product and it’s important to remember, from a market perspective, that some brands struggle all their life to be associated with an iconic product. We, we have it, and our clients are very attached to it.”
Developing Not Just Creating
Certainly no arguments here, but what impact does this have on innovation? Especially when you consider that more than 50% of the brand’s revenue comes from one single model, what incentive is there to be developing new models? However, as Vidal rightly points out, innovation isn’t just about developing new models. It also involves developing the models you already have:
“Even at the unique scale of the Royal Oak and its declensions Royal Oak Offshore, we are in constant innovation, following three different axis : materials, finishing, and complications.”
Indeed Audemars Piguet owns one of the most powerful and productive R&D departments in the industry (Renaud et Papi) and it utilizes this facility to great effect. A perfect example of what Mr. Vidal is talking about is the Millenary Carbon, which features a case made from a combination of aluminium, steel, nickel, and forged carbon (the last of which is the equivalent of more than 100 kilometres of compressed carbon fibers!)
On the complications side, Audemars-Piguet also demonstrates their know-how, for instance with a superb tourbillon and a double cylinder which ensures 12 days of regulated autonomy.
Still though, this Millenary Carbon is a limited edition, a tactic which is becoming increasingly common in the industry and in this context makes us question whether the brand is relying on the Royal Oak for its core business and then creating limited editions to generate buzz for the brand?
Although many would consider this a commercially sensitive topic Vidal does not shy away and answers us without any ambiguity:
“No, and for four reasons. The first one is that we don’t need limited editions in our product range, as we unveil around thirty new items per year, amongst which limited editions are just a part.
The second reason is that our limited editions are designed as a special attention, a thanks for our closest customers. As a proof, each limited edition is almost completely sold out even before we produce it.
The third reason is that we don’t markup our limited editions, except, of course, with the potential additions we made to the standard version and that could impact the final price.
Last but not least, the fourth reason is that the limited edition concept, often seen as a sales booster, is on the contrary, for us, a constraint; we are a traditional manufacture with limited production (editor’s note: 25.000 units / year), and each limited edition that we make requires the use of our production tools and consequently slows down the production of our standard models.”
The Final Word
It seems that unlike some of the other brands we have looked at so far, Audemars-Piguet invests in innovation (at least in part) as a way of rewarding its loyal customers. Arguably a key difference here is that AP is a very established and well-respected brand and therefore isn’t as concerned with proving its merit as a watch-maker.
Regardless though, the knowledge and expertise gained from these special editions still flows down to the standard range, ensuring the company continues to produce innovative timepieces of the highest quality.
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