Posts Tagged ‘Swiss’
Chronometrie 2009 – The Results Are In!
The Rene Addor Calibre Papillon, 11 day Movement © Ian Skellern
While La Locle may not be the most attractive town in the Swiss Jura, it is a World Heritage Site and along with La Chauxde Fonds is the spiritual home of Swiss Watch making. Last week the Horological Museum in La Locle held the awards ceremony in a six month contest to measure the accuracy of watch movements from around the world.
The first competitions were held at the end of the 19th Century and carried on through until the 1970s when the dire situation of the Swiss watch industry at that time, due to the quartz watch, caused it to be cancelled. Manufacturers send in examples of their watch movements and over a period of several months they are subject to a series of tests to measure their accuracy under a number of different environmental and physical conditions.
There are two main categories, those watches from large manufacturers such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Zentih etc and those from independents. The two categories are separated because if you are a large manufacturer produce thousands and thousands of watches just by the law of averages you will produce one that is almost perfect, while a small independent needs to spend many, many hours refining and refining to get it right.
The first place Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Tourbillon (on the left) with the second-place Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon © Ian Skellern
The surprise perhaps was the number of ETA movements that had been entered, not perhaps a surprise given the number of movements the Swatch subsidiary sells each year to other manufacturers and the lengths some watchmakers go to in order to improve the basic movements.
Well the big winners were:
Independent: Rene Addor Calibre Papillon, 11 day Movement
Brand: Jaeger La Coulture Calibre 978 Master Tourbillon
The Rene Addor is a nice silver face classical watch with a subsidiary seconds atthe 9 o’clock , though personally I prefer the look of the rectangular Artisan d’Horlogerie d’Art Voutilainen with it’s “Doctor’s” dial. It’s a shame that there were only three entries in the independent category let’s hope that if they repeat the contest in 2011 that they attract a bigger entry.
As a big fan of Jaeger-Le Coultre I have always liked the Master Tourbillon, if not it’s price, but given a no-limit budget I would go for the Greubel-Forsey.
Emmanuelle Vuille, CEO of Greubel-Forsey, stated “if you promote yourself as crafters of precision movements, then you are obliged to prove it”, and so entered the competition. This is a viewpoint that a few more manufacturers would do well to take on board.
What do you think? Leave a comment. | Filed under Watch News
Dunhill Classic versus Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia Big Date – Take A Second Look
Recently the manifestation of two unrelated events provided the catalyst that triggered this article. Firstly, the arrival of my new weekend watch, the German made Vortex by Dievas courtesy of Gnomon Watches. And secondly, Ben Clymer, a good friend of The Watch Lounge, and the chief editor over at Hodinkee drawing my attention to the relatively new ‘Classic’ watch from Dunhill, which was announced earlier this year.
The purpose of this article, quite simply put, is to let you know about a brand that you may have possibly never heard of before and to subtlety hint at the benefits of looking past the fancy marketing campaigns to discover true value.
What Are You Buying?
Now before I get too carried away, I think it’s important to state that I am actually quite a fan of Dunhill as a brand and admire a lot of the products they have released. The new Classic watch is certainly no exception in this regard. Powered by an automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 896 movement and blessed with timeless good looks it would make an exemplary addition to anyone’s collection. So far, so good, right?
The main problem I have is this: Dunhill is not a watchmaker.
Yes, the Classic is powered by a very respectable Swiss Made movement and it does look quite nice, but consider this; the stainless steel version will run you just over $5,000 and you can forget about getting change from $10,000 for the rose gold version. So what are you actually paying for? The brand or the watch?
Keep that in mind as you prepare to meet (possibly for the first time) German watch maker Mühle-Glashütte.
Take A Second Look
The watch I’ve chosen to introduce you to today is the Teutonia Big Date (pictured above), however, please be advised that this is simply one piece in a rather impressive range. This is not a new watch by any stretch of the imagination but thanks to its classic style you could be forgiven for thinking it was released to the market yesterday. Before I go into too much more detail though, I think a little background on the brand itself is required to help reinforce my above point about Dunhill not actually being a watchmaker.
Mühle-Glashütte’s watch making heritage can be traced back as far 135 years ago when the great-grandfather of the current owner Hans-Jürgen Mühle built and sold measuring instruments for the local clock manufacturers. Hans Mühle, his grandson, found his way back into measurement engineering after 1945, but was dispossessed as part of East German collectivisation. It was not until after the fall of the Wall, in 1994, that the company returned into the ownership of the family, who envisaged a promising market in the manufacture and marketing of ship’s clocks and ship’s clock systems – hence the name ‘Nautische Instrumente Mühle-Glashütte’.
The production of high-precision wrist-watches was added later. This decision proved extremely successful – in fact, so much so that this branch of business has turned into Mühle-Glashütte’s core business. Today Nautische Instrumente Mühle-Glashütte has been in business for over ten years.
In my opinion the value of this heritage cannot be discounted, you are not just buying a watch, you are buying a story.
Now, back to the actual watch itself. As the name suggests the Teutonia features a big date display just under 12 o’clock, as well as a seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock similar to the Dunhill Classic. The watch is also powered by a reputable (albeit modified) Swiss Automatic Movement, the Mühle ETA 2892-A2.
As far as aesthetics go the Teutonia and the Classic are very similar. Mühle-Glashütte’s offering at 41mm is slightly larger than Dunhill’s 38mm, but still well within the realms of respectable sizing for a watch of this style. Both pieces feature beautifully finished dials, polished stainless steel cases and attractive leather straps.
Here’s the kicker, though. The Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia Big Date will only set you back $3,140 from Gnomon Watches.
Yes, arguably the Dunhill Classic does feature the more highly prized Calibre 896 from JLC but for the money they are asking you could actually just buy a very similar styled Jaeger Le-Coultre, which in my opinion would be a far better option.
The Final Word
The purpose of this article was not so much to single out Dunhill for criticism but rather to bring to your attention the fact that there a number of exceptional watch makers out there, who may not presently be on your radar, but definitely should be. I have personally dealt with Gnomon Watches several times before and the only thing I would rate higher than their service (which is outstanding by the way) is their surprisingly unique selection of brands.
Remember, just because you’ve never heard of a brand before doesn’t mean that it’s not worth a second look. You never know what you might discover when you look past the big marketing budgets.
*Note: This article was written without the endorsement or express request of Gnomon Watches. All views expressed above are my own.
Vacheron Constantin Malte Moon Phase and Power Reserve
Makers of arguably some of the most beautiful watches in the world, I am rarely (if ever) disappointed by Swiss masters Vacheron Constantin. The latest piece to catch my eye is the Malte Moon Phase and Power-Reserve. A very distinctive looking piece that combines the Marque’s traditional style and technical complexity with an exceptional level of legibility and unique appeal to create an instant classic.
A Brief History Lesson
For those of you that may be new to the world of high-end watch making it is worthwhile touching on Vacheron Constantin’s history so that you appreciate just who we are dealing with here. As the loyal guardian of an unbroken Genevan watchmaking tradition since 1755, Vacheron Constantin has an exceptional heritage that represents an inexhaustible source of inspiration for its contemporary creations such as this new Malte model. In 1889, the Geneva-based manufacturer produced its very first wristwatches and commenced on a journey of stylistic exploration.
Subtle Yet Shapely
Presented in a tonneau or “barrel” shape case, this is a style that was first explored by Vacheron Constantin back in 1912. Throughout the years this unique case design has seen several variations to its basic shape, at times elongated, curved, embellished or pared down according to the inspiration of the moment. This is the true genius of a Vacheron Constantin timepiece, the subtlety with which the brand shapes its pieces, at times almost imperceptible to the casual observer and at the same time mind blowing to the seasoned enthusiast.
A contemporary expression of the brand’s inimitable artistic sensitivity, the Malte line was born with the third millennium in a reinterpretation of the tonneau shape. Be warned though, the case size is very generous at 39mm x 49mm and as such will not suit all wrists. Yet it is this same size that allows for the outstanding legibility of the borderline complex dial.
Believe me though, with a dial this stunning, you will want to be able to fully appreciate even the finest of touches. Beautifully adorned with five different finishes, the level of highly skilled craftsmanship involved would be almost unthinkable from any one else. The inner zone features a silvered, finely hand-guilloché “Clous de Paris” or hobnail motif. The outer zone is decorated with a vertical satin-brushed finish, also silvered.
The minute circle, the power-reserve display as well as the inscriptions Vacheron Constantin Genève and Swiss Made are all transferred, while the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock is circular satin-brushed. And finally, the minute-circle and power-reserve zones are screen-printed in white.
As the finishing touch on a wonderfully subdued dial the moon-phase display presents an intelligent blend of technology and expertise, composed of a disc with a galvanized base and a moon face in 18-carat white gold or pink gold depending on the model. The extremely broad dial ensuring user-friendly readability is punctuated by nine hour-markers, two Roman numerals and a Maltese cross, all in 18-carat white or pink gold, depending on the version.
Keeping It In-House
Animating this refined masterpiece is the manual-winding 1410 calibre developed and manufactured entirely in-house by Vacheron Constantin. In recognition of its heritage it bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, an indication reserved exclusively for movements stemming from the finest Geneva workshops, and graced with exceptionally careful hand-crafted finishing.
In addition to hour and minute hands, the Calibre 1410 drives a precision moon-phase display which will not require any setting for more than 100 years and an indication of the over 40-hour power reserve. This 22-jewel manual-winding movement oscillates at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Available in a choice of 18-carat white gold or 5N pink gold, the satin-brushed case-back is secured by screws. The dial is protected by a glareproofed cambered sapphire crystal and is fitted with a square-scale alligator-leather strap in black for the white gold model and chestnut brown for the rose gold model – both equipped with a gold folding clasp matching the case colour.
The Final Word
In case you didn’t glean this from the above I am very big admirer of Vacheron Constantin and their stunning creations. The Malte Moon Phase presents a very attractive option for a discerning individual who is seeking a high-quality piece from a very well-respected watch maker that offers a level of moderate complication without going over the top.
The appeal of this watch is both in its subtlety and its legibility, as well as the exceptional craftsmanship it exhibits. This is a timeless piece that will be passed down through the generations.
For more information see Vacheron Constantin’s official website.
Weird Watch Wednesday: AK Geneve’s HMS Automatic Warp
This week’s watch comes from one of my favorite out of the box watch designers, Arny Kapshitzer, and his brand AK Geneve. First announced in 2008 you only have to take one look at the HMS Automatic Warp watch to realize what makes it unique. Yet it is so much more complex than that. That the designer had a possibly unhealthy obsession with a certain popular Sci-Fi series from the 1960s is obvious. What isn’t so apparent at first look is the level of complexity and ingenuity that this watch represents. Admittedly you won’t hit warp speed wearing this piece but you certainly will break a few boundaries.
Melding Wrist And Watch
As I’ve already mentioned Arny was quite taken with the Star Trek series, hence the name and also the reason why he chose to give the case of his watch a shuttle shape, conveying the notion of aerodynamic speed. Emphasizing this concept of streamlined movement the elongated case has been designed to form an extension of the arm, creating a kind of synergy between wearer and watch not normally seen in a watch of this size.
To reflect the fact that the arm is always slimmer at the wrist joint, the watch has been engineered to be thicker on the crown side. A small detail perhaps but this remarkable design works to guide the lines of the watch so that it fits more snugly with the shape of the arm. This, of itself is rather unusual as most watches are designed to sit on top of the wrist, whereas the HMS Automatic is designed to meld with the wrist.
Keeping this sleek design firmly strapped to your wrist is a custom made bracelet formulated from perfluorinated, hypoallergenic rubber that resists all acids. Yes, it is more expensive but it also much more reliable over time than the vast majority of rubbers currently available. Displaying his design genius even in the smallest of details Kapshitzer created a clasp that is recessed into the inner surface of the bracelet so as not to injure or impede the wrist of the wearer.
Mission Control
Undoubtedly though, it is the dial that has really caught your attention. Keeping with the watch’s overall sci-fi theme it resembles something out of a spaceship mission control panel. Located directly in the line of sight of the wearer a cut-away metal piece reveals the jumping hours and minutes on two superimposed discs. The seconds are displayed at 3 o’clock on a cylinder linked directly to the crown with 9 o’clock forming the tail of the “spaceship”.
Flying Into The Future
Not only is the design of the case very futuristic its construction is also quite out of this world. Whilst it is not readily apparent simply by looking at the watch, the middle piece is made entirely of compressed carbon fibre. This serves several purposes, making the watch not only highly shock resistant but also exceptionally light. Composed of 15 different pieces, each one has been lovingly screwed on, using a total of 34 screws. The crown also consists of 20 individual pieces, all of which serve a purpose.
Not Quite Warp Speed
Powering the AK HMS Automatic is the Time Engine 001, a relatively basic automatic movement which has been created in collaboration with Concepto. However, as one expects from such a unique piece attention to detail and the use of exotic materials is almost standard. Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, the oscillating weight is made of iridium alloy with a carbon-fibre plate. The telescopic crown is directly linked to the movement, and is not screw-on but instead has a bayonet fitting and is mounted on a titanium shock-absorber.
The Final Word
It is no secret that this watch will not suit everyone’s taste but it is highly doubtful that that was ever the intention of the designer. I think what you need to take away from this piece is the incredible attention to detail and the demonstration of what is possible. Complex but at the same time simplistic this is something that has been designed, much like the ship it was modeled off, to be used not just admired. Besides, whether you’re a fan of Star Trek or not it is very difficult to deny the sci-fi ‘coolness’ factor of this watch!
Arny is currently in the process of manufacturing the HMS Automatic and has been putting up a series of pictures of the different stages on his Facebook page. Well worth a look!
An Evening With Peter Speake-Marin
The Swiss town of Rolle, whilst quite pretty, is certainly not on any tourist trail. In fact, if I recall correctly the last time I came through here it was simply an attempt to avoid the blocked motorway. So when I found myself driving through this sleepy, picturesque town on a lovely autumn evening it all seemed a bit surreal. Then again, I was on my way to meet master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin, so really I couldn’t imagine wanting to be anywhere else!
We have organized to meet up over a couple of beers in a disconcertingly odd “English” pub. When I arrive I am pleasantly surprised to see that Peter is in the company of two other gentleman who turn out to be ex-colleagues from Renaud et Papi (the infamous subsidiary of Audemars Piguet) who now make complications under contract. It seems I truly am in the presence of watch royalty this evening.
Considered by many to be a rising star of the horological world, Speake-Marin’s conservatively styled range belies the love and care that he lavishes upon each and every one of them. Recently he gained considerable publicity, first for venturing around the world to promote his watches and then, in a rather sad turn of events, for getting car-jacked in San Francisco for his stock (please see here for details. If you know or hear anything please contact Peter Speake-Marin immediately). Thankfully unharmed, the attack and subsequent loss does not seem to have dimmed his enthusiasm for his products or his vision.
As distressing as this experience was, it also served to demonstrate the level of dedication and passion required to be a successful independent watchmaker, characteristics for which Speake-Marin is well known. Others would be forgiven for being frozen with fear when confronted by an angry assailant, but not Peter. His first reaction to being dragged out of his car was to lean back in and try to grab the bag containing his precious pieces. Now the police will tell you that this is certainly not the right thing to do in this situation, as you may well find yourself face-to-face with a knife or worse, a gun. However, when your job is your life it’s not hard to see why he tried anyway.
As a foreigner in the Swiss dominated industry Peter has had to work extra hard to forge his reputation for high-quality watch-making. The relaxed, modest way he recounts his watch-making journey belies his exceptional pedigree. Studying watch making at Hackney College in London was an accident, restoring and servicing vintage watches for Somlo’s in Piccadilly just a case of being in the right place at the right time and working at “Renaud et Papi” just another job. But talking with his two former R. et P. colleagues it is very clear the esteem in which he is held. Here is a man who knows who he is and where he is going.
The astronomical rise of Peter’s profile in the world of high-end watchmaking cannot be attributed solely to a simple string of good fortune, not by any stretch of the imagination. This is someone who found their calling and with careful thought, a little bit of luck and an exceptional amount of hard work, carved out a successful career. It was only logical that the next step in his journey be the formation and running of his own company.
Speake-Marin’s early model watches were based on a highly modified ETA 2824, perhaps a somewhat overlooked but nonetheless worthy caliber. Whilst this may have not been ideal, Speake-Marin’s time repairing vintage watches taught him that timepieces must last and one way to ensure this was to use a trusted base and then upgrade the movement with his own modifications.
The compromise was well worth it though. The use of the ETA movement allowed him the time and the money to complete his own caliber, the SM2, which would be used as the foundation for all future creations. The good news is that this really is just the beginning and he has already planned out his strategy for several future versions.
As has been the hallmark of his career, Peter’s timing is impeccable. In these times of financial constraint there has been a marked move away from the relentless bright gold and diamonds ever present over the last few years and Speake-Marin’s watches seem ideally placed to take advantage of this. The classic style of his watches coupled with the curved lugs give a nice tight fit on your wrist and a good chunky feel without the unpleasant sensation of walking around with a lead weight attached to your arm. Unlike some other brands which I won’t mention here!!
However when it comes down to it, it is the attention to detail that really takes your breath away. From the unique rotor, visible through the sapphire exhibition back, to the tiny but superbly executed blue-steeled screw that hold the brilliantly enameled dial in place. Any of these subtle touches would be reason enough to purchase one of these amazing watches. Add to this the fact that Peter Speake-Marin is destined to be one of the great watchmakers of this century, and you soon see it’s really not that hard of a choice to make!
To find out more about this amazing man and his creations check out his official website.
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