Finland has long been known for its contributions to industrial design and handicrafts, and indeed their architecture is famous around the world (in the right circles anyway), but watch-making? Not quite. In fact, historically speaking the only notable time-telling devices Finland has been responsible for creating have come attached to Nokia cell-phones. That was until Stepan Sarpaneva returned to his country of birth after spending several years studying and working in Switzerland for companies like Piaget, Parmigiani, Vianney Halter and Christophe Claret.

With his latest creation, the Sarpaneva Korona K0, Stepan shows us once again that there is more than one country in the EU capable of producing exceptional, high quality and above all, original timepieces.

A Different Perspective
One of the great things about Stepan is that he is not Swiss and so his reference points and design influences are completely different. Don’t get us wrong, we are absolutely enamoured with Swiss made watches and Swiss watch-makers (heck, we’ve pretty much built a website dedicated to spreading their message)  but the simple fact is that this means that his bold creations are often unlike any of the other pieces you regularly see gracing these very pages. This does not necessarily mean they are better or worse, just simply that they are different.

The Korona K0 is no exception. Even at first glance it appears at once familiar and yet simulataneously so unlike anything you’ve seen before. The design is daring and bold but at the same time evenly tempered, in typical Finnish fashion. Still, understated or not, the exceptional quality and craftsmanship Sarpaneva is so well known for is obvious in every aspect of this new timepiece.

© Guy Lucas De Peslouan

The trade-mark spider-web like black diamond coated stainless steel dial features Superluminova indexes and the 46mm case is crafted from Grade 2 Titanium and rated to 200m water resistance with a subdued matte finish that only serves to further enhance the subtle use of color on the inner-rotating bezel.

Even just the shape of the case itself is different enough to draw your attention without being offensive and gives off a decidedly rugged, sporty vibe complemented by the rubber strap. Yet, at the same time you get the distinct impression that it would look just as at home in the board room as it would on the sports field.

What really makes this piece special though is the concept of integration. You see, Stepan has been clever enough to modify the mainplate in the Soprod A10 calibre automatic movement to incorporate the function of rotating the internal bezel. Whereas as most watches with internal rotating bezels require two crowns (one to set the time and the other to rotate the bezel) the stainless steel, diamond coated Imperial Blue timer ring on this piece is manually adjustable by moving the bajonette screw-down crown to the first position.

Very practical but also very cool.

No word on pricing as yet with availability scheduled to be sometime in 2011.

© Guy Lucas De Peslouan

The Final Word
Sometimes different can be very bad, and sometimes it can be very good. To date Stepan Sarpaneva’s unique creations have always belonged to the second category and judging by the new Korona K0 he intends to continue this trend. We can’t help but be impressed by his bold design choices and clever integration of functionality, producing timepieces that are both highly attractive and at the same time extremely practical.

Then again, he is from Finland.

To find out more visit the official website – www.sarpanevawatches.com

While La Locle may not be the most attractive town in the Swiss Jura, it is a World Heritage Site and along with La Chauxde Fonds is the spiritual home of Swiss Watch making. Last week the Horological Museum in La Locle held the awards ceremony in a six month contest to measure the accuracy of watch movements from around the world.

The first competitions were held at the end of the 19th Century and carried on through until the 1970s when the dire situation of the Swiss watch industry at that time, due to the quartz watch, caused it to be cancelled. Manufacturers send in examples of their watch movements and over a period of several months they are subject to a series of tests to measure their accuracy under a number of different environmental and physical conditions.

There are two main categories, those watches from large manufacturers such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Zentih etc and those from independents. The two categories are separated because if you are a large manufacturer produce thousands and thousands of watches just by the law of averages you will produce one that is almost perfect, while a small independent needs to spend many, many hours refining and refining to get it right.

The first place Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Tourbillon (on the left) with the second-place Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon © Ian Skellern

The surprise perhaps was the number of ETA movements that had been entered, not perhaps a surprise given the number of movements the Swatch subsidiary sells each year to other manufacturers and the lengths some watchmakers go to in order to improve the basic movements.

Well the big winners were:

Independent: Rene Addor Calibre Papillon, 11 day Movement

Brand: Jaeger La Coulture Calibre 978 Master Tourbillon

The Rene Addor is a nice silver face classical watch with a subsidiary seconds atthe 9 o’clock , though personally I prefer the look of the rectangular Artisan d’Horlogerie d’Art Voutilainen with it’s “Doctor’s” dial. It’s a shame that there were only three entries in the independent category let’s hope that if they repeat the contest in 2011 that they attract a bigger entry.

As a big fan of Jaeger-Le Coultre I have always liked the Master Tourbillon, if not it’s price, but given a no-limit budget I would go for the Greubel-Forsey.

Emmanuelle Vuille, CEO of Greubel-Forsey, stated “if you promote yourself as crafters of precision movements, then you are obliged to prove it”, and so entered the competition. This is a viewpoint that a few more manufacturers would do well to take on board.

Recently the manifestation of two unrelated events provided the catalyst that triggered this article. Firstly, the arrival of my new weekend watch, the German made Vortex by Dievas courtesy of Gnomon Watches. And secondly, Ben Clymer, a good friend of The Watch Lounge, and the chief editor over at Hodinkee drawing my attention to the relatively new ‘Classic’ watch from Dunhill, which was announced earlier this year.

The purpose of this article, quite simply put, is to let you know about a brand that you may have possibly never heard of before and to subtlety hint at the benefits of looking past the fancy marketing campaigns to discover true value.

What Are You Buying?
Now before I get too carried away, I think it’s important to state that I am actually quite a fan of Dunhill as a brand and admire a lot of the products they have released. The new Classic watch is certainly no exception in this regard. Powered by an automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 896 movement and blessed with timeless good looks it would make an exemplary addition to anyone’s collection. So far, so good, right?

The main problem I have is this: Dunhill is not a watchmaker.

Yes, the Classic is powered by a very respectable Swiss Made movement and it does look quite nice, but consider this; the stainless steel version will run you just over $5,000 and you can forget about getting change from $10,000 for the rose gold version. So what are you actually paying for? The brand or the watch?

Keep that in mind as you prepare to meet (possibly for the first time) German watch maker Mühle-Glashütte.

Take A Second Look
The watch I’ve chosen to introduce you to today is the Teutonia Big Date (pictured above), however, please be advised that this is simply one piece in a rather impressive range. This is not a new watch by any stretch of the imagination but thanks to its classic style you could be forgiven for thinking it was released to the market yesterday. Before I go into too much more detail though, I think a little background on the brand itself is required to help reinforce my above point about Dunhill not actually being a watchmaker.

Mühle-Glashütte’s watch making heritage can be traced back as far 135 years ago when the great-grandfather of the current owner Hans-Jürgen Mühle built and sold measuring instruments for the local clock manufacturers. Hans Mühle, his grandson, found his way back into measurement engineering after 1945, but was dispossessed as part of East German collectivisation. It was not until after the fall of the Wall, in 1994, that the company returned into the ownership of the family, who envisaged a promising market in the manufacture and marketing of ship’s clocks and ship’s clock systems – hence the name ‘Nautische Instrumente Mühle-Glashütte’.

The production of high-precision wrist-watches was added later. This decision proved extremely successful – in fact, so much so that this branch of business has turned into Mühle-Glashütte’s core business. Today Nautische Instrumente Mühle-Glashütte has been in business for over ten years.

In my opinion the value of this heritage cannot be discounted, you are not just buying a watch, you are buying a story.

Now, back to the actual watch itself. As the name suggests the Teutonia features a big date display just under 12 o’clock, as well as a seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock similar to the Dunhill Classic. The watch is also powered by a reputable (albeit modified) Swiss Automatic Movement, the Mühle ETA 2892-A2.

As far as aesthetics go the Teutonia and the Classic are very similar. Mühle-Glashütte’s offering at 41mm is slightly larger than Dunhill’s 38mm, but still well within the realms of respectable sizing for a watch of this style. Both pieces feature beautifully finished dials, polished stainless steel cases and attractive leather straps.

Here’s the kicker, though. The Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia Big Date will only set you back $3,140 from Gnomon Watches.

Yes, arguably the Dunhill Classic does feature the more highly prized Calibre 896 from JLC but for the money they are asking you could actually just buy a very similar styled Jaeger Le-Coultre, which in my opinion would be a far better option.

The Final Word
The purpose of this article was not so much to single out Dunhill for criticism but rather to bring to your attention the fact that there a number of exceptional watch makers out there, who may not presently be on your radar, but definitely should be. I have personally dealt with Gnomon Watches several times before and the only thing I would rate higher than their service (which is outstanding by the way) is their surprisingly unique selection of brands.

Remember, just because you’ve never heard of a brand before doesn’t mean that it’s not worth a second look. You never know what you might discover when you look past the big marketing budgets.

*Note: This article was written without the endorsement or express request of Gnomon Watches. All views expressed above are my own.

Makers of arguably some of the most beautiful watches in the world, I am rarely (if ever) disappointed by Swiss masters Vacheron Constantin. The latest piece to catch my eye is the Malte Moon Phase and Power-Reserve. A very distinctive looking piece that combines the Marque’s traditional style and technical complexity with an exceptional level of legibility and unique appeal to create an instant classic.

A Brief History Lesson
For those of you that may be new to the world of high-end watch making it is worthwhile touching on Vacheron Constantin’s history so that you appreciate just who we are dealing with here. As the loyal guardian of an unbroken Genevan watchmaking tradition since 1755, Vacheron Constantin has an exceptional heritage that represents an inexhaustible source of inspiration for its contemporary creations such as this new Malte model. In 1889, the Geneva-based manufacturer produced its very first wristwatches and commenced on a journey of stylistic exploration.

Subtle Yet Shapely
Presented in a tonneau or “barrel” shape case, this is a style that was first explored by Vacheron Constantin back in 1912. Throughout the years this unique case design has seen several variations to its basic shape, at times elongated, curved, embellished or pared down according to the inspiration of the moment. This is the true genius of a Vacheron Constantin timepiece, the subtlety with which the brand shapes its pieces, at times almost imperceptible to the casual observer and at the same time mind blowing to the seasoned enthusiast.

A contemporary expression of the brand’s inimitable artistic sensitivity, the Malte line was born with the third millennium in a reinterpretation of the tonneau shape. Be warned though, the case size is very generous at 39mm x 49mm and as such will not suit all wrists. Yet it is this same size that allows for the outstanding legibility of the borderline complex dial.

Believe me though, with a dial this stunning, you will want to be able to fully appreciate even the finest of touches. Beautifully adorned with five different finishes, the level of highly skilled craftsmanship involved would be almost unthinkable from any one else. The inner zone features a silvered, finely hand-guilloché “Clous de Paris” or hobnail motif. The outer zone is decorated with a vertical satin-brushed finish, also silvered.

The minute circle, the power-reserve display as well as the inscriptions Vacheron Constantin Genève and Swiss Made are all transferred, while the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock is circular satin-brushed. And finally, the minute-circle and power-reserve zones are screen-printed in white.

As the finishing touch on a wonderfully subdued dial the moon-phase display presents an intelligent blend of technology and expertise, composed of a disc with a galvanized base and a moon face in 18-carat white gold or pink gold depending on the model. The extremely broad dial ensuring user-friendly readability is punctuated by nine hour-markers, two Roman numerals and a Maltese cross, all in 18-carat white or pink gold, depending on the version.

Keeping It In-House
Animating this refined masterpiece is the manual-winding 1410 calibre developed and manufactured entirely in-house by Vacheron Constantin. In recognition of its heritage it bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, an indication reserved exclusively for movements stemming from the finest Geneva workshops, and graced with exceptionally careful hand-crafted finishing.

In addition to hour and minute hands, the Calibre 1410 drives a precision moon-phase display which will not require any setting for more than 100 years and an indication of the over 40-hour power reserve. This 22-jewel manual-winding movement oscillates at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Available in a choice of 18-carat white gold or 5N pink gold, the satin-brushed case-back is secured by screws. The dial is protected by a glareproofed cambered sapphire crystal and is fitted with a square-scale alligator-leather strap in black for the white gold model and chestnut brown for the rose gold model – both equipped with a gold folding clasp matching the case colour.

The Final Word
In case you didn’t glean this from the above I am very big admirer of Vacheron Constantin and their stunning creations. The Malte Moon Phase presents a very attractive option for a discerning individual who is seeking a high-quality piece from a very well-respected watch maker that offers a level of moderate complication without going over the top.

The appeal of this watch is both in its subtlety and its legibility, as well as the exceptional craftsmanship it exhibits. This is a timeless piece that will be passed down through the generations.

For more information see Vacheron Constantin’s official website.

This week’s watch comes from one of my favorite out of the box watch designers, Arny Kapshitzer, and his brand AK Geneve. First announced in 2008 you only have to take one look at the HMS Automatic Warp watch to realize what makes it unique. Yet it is so much more complex than that. That the designer had a possibly unhealthy obsession with a certain popular Sci-Fi series from the 1960s is obvious. What isn’t so apparent at first look is the level of complexity and ingenuity that this watch represents. Admittedly you won’t hit warp speed wearing this piece but you certainly will break a few boundaries.

Melding Wrist And Watch
As I’ve already mentioned Arny was quite taken with the Star Trek series, hence the name and also the reason why he chose to give the case of his watch a shuttle shape, conveying the notion of aerodynamic speed. Emphasizing this concept of streamlined movement the elongated case has been designed to form an extension of the arm, creating a kind of synergy between wearer and watch not normally seen in a watch of this size.

To reflect the fact that the arm is always slimmer at the wrist joint, the watch has been engineered to be thicker on the crown side. A small detail perhaps but this remarkable design works to guide the lines of the watch so that it fits more snugly with the shape of the arm. This, of itself is rather unusual as most watches are designed to sit on top of the wrist, whereas the HMS Automatic is designed to meld with the wrist.

Keeping this sleek design firmly strapped to your wrist is a custom made bracelet formulated from perfluorinated, hypoallergenic rubber that resists all acids. Yes, it is more expensive but it also much more reliable over time than the vast majority of rubbers currently available. Displaying his design genius even in the smallest of details Kapshitzer created a clasp that is recessed into the inner surface of the bracelet so as not to injure or impede the wrist of the wearer.

Mission Control
Undoubtedly though, it is the dial that has really caught your attention. Keeping with the watch’s overall sci-fi theme it resembles something out of a spaceship mission control panel. Located directly in the line of sight of the wearer a cut-away metal piece reveals the jumping hours and minutes on two superimposed discs. The seconds are displayed at 3 o’clock on a cylinder linked directly to the crown with 9 o’clock forming the tail of the “spaceship”.

Flying Into The Future
Not only is the design of the case very futuristic its construction is also quite out of this world. Whilst it is not readily apparent simply by looking at the watch, the middle piece is made entirely of compressed carbon fibre. This serves several purposes, making the watch not only highly shock resistant but also exceptionally light. Composed of 15 different pieces, each one has been lovingly screwed on, using a total of 34 screws. The crown also consists of 20 individual pieces, all of which serve a purpose.

Not Quite Warp Speed
Powering the AK HMS Automatic is the Time Engine 001, a relatively basic automatic movement which has been created in collaboration with Concepto. However, as one expects from such a unique piece attention to detail and the use of exotic materials is almost standard. Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, the oscillating weight is made of iridium alloy with a carbon-fibre plate. The telescopic crown is directly linked to the movement, and is not screw-on but instead has a bayonet fitting and is mounted on a titanium shock-absorber.

The Final Word
It is no secret that this watch will not suit everyone’s taste but it is highly doubtful that that was ever the intention of the designer. I think what you need to take away from this piece is the incredible attention to detail and the demonstration of what is possible. Complex but at the same time simplistic this is something that has been designed, much like the ship it was modeled off, to be used not just admired. Besides, whether you’re a fan of Star Trek or not it is very difficult to deny the sci-fi ‘coolness’ factor of this watch!

Arny is currently in the process of manufacturing the HMS Automatic and has been putting up a series of pictures of the different stages on his Facebook page. Well worth a look!

The Swiss town of Rolle, whilst quite pretty, is certainly not on any tourist trail. In fact, if I recall correctly the last time I came through here it was simply an attempt to avoid the blocked motorway. So when I found myself driving through this sleepy, picturesque town on a lovely autumn evening it all seemed a bit surreal. Then again, I was on my way to meet master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin, so really I couldn’t imagine wanting to be anywhere else!

We have organized to meet up over a couple of beers in a disconcertingly odd “English” pub. When I arrive I am pleasantly surprised to see that Peter is in the company of two other gentleman who turn out to be ex-colleagues from Renaud et Papi (the infamous subsidiary of Audemars Piguet) who now make complications under contract. It seems I truly am in the presence of watch royalty this evening.

Considered by many to be a rising star of the horological world, Speake-Marin’s conservatively styled range belies the love and care that he lavishes upon each and every one of them. Recently he gained considerable publicity, first for venturing around the world to promote his watches and then, in a rather sad turn of events, for getting car-jacked in San Francisco for his stock (please see here for details. If you know or hear anything please contact Peter Speake-Marin immediately). Thankfully unharmed, the attack and subsequent loss does not seem to have dimmed his enthusiasm for his products or his vision.

As distressing as this experience was, it also served to demonstrate the level of dedication and passion required to be a successful independent watchmaker, characteristics for which Speake-Marin is well known. Others would be forgiven for being frozen with fear when confronted by an angry assailant, but not Peter. His first reaction to being dragged out of his car was to lean back in and try to grab the bag containing his precious pieces. Now the police will tell you that this is certainly not the right thing to do in this situation, as you may well find yourself face-to-face with a knife or worse, a gun. However, when your job is your life it’s not hard to see why he tried anyway.

As a foreigner in the Swiss dominated industry Peter has had to work extra hard to forge his reputation for high-quality watch-making. The relaxed, modest way he recounts his watch-making journey belies his exceptional pedigree. Studying watch making at Hackney College in London was an accident, restoring and servicing vintage watches for Somlo’s in Piccadilly just a case of being in the right place at the right time and working at “Renaud et Papi” just another job. But talking with his two former R. et P. colleagues it is very clear the esteem in which he is held. Here is a man who knows who he is and where he is going.

The astronomical rise of Peter’s profile in the world of high-end watchmaking cannot be attributed solely to a simple string of good fortune, not by any stretch of the imagination. This is someone who found their calling and with careful thought, a little bit of luck and an exceptional amount of hard work, carved out a successful career. It was only logical that the next step in his journey be the formation and running of his own company.

Speake-Marin’s early model watches were based on a highly modified ETA 2824, perhaps a somewhat overlooked but nonetheless worthy caliber. Whilst this may have not been ideal, Speake-Marin’s time repairing vintage watches taught him that timepieces must last and one way to ensure this was to use a trusted base and then upgrade the movement with his own modifications.
The compromise was well worth it though. The use of the ETA movement allowed him the time and the money to complete his own caliber, the SM2, which would be used as the foundation for all future creations. The good news is that this really is just the beginning and he has already planned out his strategy for several future versions.

As has been the hallmark of his career, Peter’s timing is impeccable. In these times of financial constraint there has been a marked move away from the relentless bright gold and diamonds ever present over the last few years and Speake-Marin’s watches seem ideally placed to take advantage of this. The classic style of his watches coupled with the curved lugs give a nice tight fit on your wrist and a good chunky feel without the unpleasant sensation of walking around with a lead weight attached to your arm. Unlike some other brands which I won’t mention here!!

However when it comes down to it, it is the attention to detail that really takes your breath away. From the unique rotor, visible through the sapphire exhibition back, to the tiny but superbly executed blue-steeled screw that hold the brilliantly enameled dial in place. Any of these subtle touches would be reason enough to purchase one of these amazing watches. Add to this the fact that Peter Speake-Marin is destined to be one of the great watchmakers of this century, and you soon see it’s really not that hard of a choice to make!

To find out more about this amazing man and his creations check out his official website.

Passionate. Brilliant. Exceptional. These are just some of the words that come to mind when you think of Denis Giguet, the highly successful founder of Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps. At the young age of 39 this incredibly driven French Engineer has already enjoyed a very successful corporate career, first with Rolex and then with Harry Winston Watches where as Head of Production he was closely involved with the highly acclaimed Opus series (from 1 to 6). He then went on to found his own consultancy practice in Geneva where he helped leading brands to realize their own technical goals whilst developing his own ideas and creating his own exciting watch brand.

Today he talks to us about the journey he has been on with Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps and the creation of the truly unique Sequential One, granting us a rare insight into the mind of a horological genius.

TWL: You have had the opportunity to work for several strongly regarded brands throughout your career such as Rolex and Harry Winston. What lessons have you learnt from these highly successful companies that you now apply in your own company?

DG: Where do I start ? Both Rolex and Harry Winston are top companies to work for. Rolex taught me the science of watchmaking combined with high volume manufacturing precision. Rolex are not market leaders for nothing and I retain a huge respect for their stunning watches.

At Harry Winston I was responsible for production of the famous Opus series, Models 1 to 6. Here I had to manage the relationship between challenging, genius designers and a large supply chain in the Swiss mountains. This experience at Harry Winston was invaluable because it taught me how to work effectively and at what is regarded as speed in the world of high horology.

Using this knowledge I was able to design, develop and produce the first prototype of Sequential One in 14 months.

TWL: What inspired you to found MCT Watches and create the Sequential One, a truly unique timepiece?

DG: My grandfather had a very old pocket watch. It was very simple but sometimes, he let me touch this fantastic watch. Fantastic because I was about 10 years old and it was marvelous to open all the covers ; the double back and the face. Discovering the old mechanism on this pocket watch was certainly a big influence behind my later decision to study mechanics and material design.

TWL: The Sequential One was the first watch to be created under the MCT Watches brand. How important was it to you to release a truly exceptional watch to really announce the arrival of an exceptional new independent watchmaker?

DG: Launching a new brand is very high risk and in the current climate that risk is greatly exaggerated. If new watches are not exceptional in their own way, the brand is unlikley to survive for long. For me it was important to design and produce a watch that would be the first of it’s kind, with our own movement. I have to ask others to judge if it is truely exceptional. I am gratified that there has been so much interest in the watch and a strong order book in year1.

TWL: Do you feel that the success of the Sequential One has helped establish MCT Watches as one of the dynamic, new faces of watch-making emerging in Switzerland?

DG: I know that I am enjoying the whole journey I am on. My watches will always make a statement and dynamic visual displays featuring a big hour indication will continue to be part of our DNA. There are a number of exciting young Swiss brands emerging and I hope the media and collectors will count MCT amongst them.

TWL: The Jumping Sequential Hour movement that animates the Sequential One is exceptionally complex and unique. Why was it so important for you to have your own in-house movement and what challenges did you face in engineering this movement?

DG: I believe that for pure authenticity a watch brand must use its own movements. The movement is the heart and essence of any luxury timepiece S1 has 471 component parts with a unique display and movement. The engineering process was extremely complex particularly as I had to think about design with a view to later industrialization, i.e production.

TWL: The Sequential One’s appeal lies not only in complexity but also in its unique design and aesthetic appeal. How long did you, in conjunction with Eirc Giroud, spend designing the watch on paper before you began to move to the production stage?

DG: We spent about 3 months in the detailed design stage but we continued during the whole development project to work on the design. Some production constraints forced us to change the design and sometimes offered us new and fantastic opportunities to improve the design.

TWL: What were the key challenges you faced in bringing your design concept to reality? Did you need to make changes to your original plans in order to make design feasible?

DG: We had to persuade every person involved to think differently to make sure sure they understood my concept and guarantee project cohesion.

I made changes to my original plans because I kept seeing new ways to achieve my aim but that is the beauty of a project like this. It is sometimes tempting to put everything into one watch but i also had to curb my enthusiasm and desire to ensure that we could complete the project on time. But this has given me so many ideas for future designs.

TWL: You have said that the visual displays on your watches will always feature a large and distinctive Hour indicator. Why is that? Is it purely for ease of reading or is this also part of MCT’s visual branding?

DG: A beautiful watch has to create emotion. Every watch I create has to be emotional for me personally. For example, at the beginning of my creation of S1, I wanted to show the time like it has never been shown before -the display of the indication of the hour is the biggest in the world. This is to make the watch essentially easy to read but it will be part of our ongoing DNA too.

I have used a sequence of different moving parts to display the hour but it is also very important that the technology I use can be recognized by connoisseurs as high horology. Before creating S1, I oversaw many complicated watch developments particularly for Harry Winston : OPUS 1-6 and the ‘tourbillon glissière’. The caractéristiques of all of these watches are a combination of design, innovation and tradition.

TWL: What does the future hold for MCT and when can we expect another breathtaking and mind altering timepiece like the Sequential One?

DG: I am of course working on developments for S1. Plus, I must continue to create fascinating new watches. I am working to develop the base of a new movement (don’t forget that at MCT we have our own movement which is very unusual for a small company). Expect exciting news when we attend the Geneva Time Exhibition in January 2010.

For me personally, I am learning to combine watchmaking with business which is a tough challenge. I realize that I must combine my passion and creativity with the reality of managing and building my own watch brand.

A few months ago Swiss engineer and inventor Ernst Benz announced the introduction of four new limited edition models in the Great Circle Chronoscope Instrument Series. Big and bold the new dial and set of hands has been designed to be reminiscent of the original precision aircraft instrumentation produced by Ernst Benz himself back in the 1960s and 70s. Although the original concept is over thirty years old, the end result is actually quite appealing.

Big And Beautiful
Ernst Benz is known for making big watches and this new release is no exception. Available only in their trademark 47mm size these watches have been designed to be easy to read, as you would expect from a purpose built aviation watch. You also have the choice of two different dials; matte black as featured in the original aircraft version and designed primarily for legibility or alternatively a carbon fibre mesh finish.

The numerals and hands are finished in either white or orange and are coated with luminescent for legibility. The latter color has special significance as or orange is used specifically in aviation for attention. The hands were designed to be exactly like the needles of the gauges of Benz’s original aircraft instruments, and for this release, custom black calendar disks were produced to complement the finish of the dial printed in corresponding colors to match either the white or orange numerals.

As is all the rage at the moment, especially with oversized pilots watches, the case has received the black PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) treatment to ensure it is non-reflective and to further resemble the finish of an aircraft cockpit panel.

Like all Ernst Benz watches this new line has been designed and manufactured in Switzerland. The pieces feature an exhibition back so that you can view the custom rotor for the movement. This new signature EB rotor has been cut out with the EB symbol flagged by wings so as to give the appearance that the rotor is almost flying as it spins. For this series, the rotor has been coated in black PVD to match the finish of the case.

The Final Word
I love the design of these new limited edition pieces from Ernst Benz but the oversized 47mm dial means they are simply impractical for every day wear, at least for most people. Having said that the simple and uncluttered dials of these stunning pieces will make them very appealing to professional pilots and other professionals who require a hard-wearing watch that is highly legible, even under the most stressful conditions.

We can only hope that Ernst Benz decides to release a reduced size model for us earthly bound mortals. 42mm would suit me just fine!

Swiss watch brand Cimier has recently announced the release of two stunning new pieces, each limited to a run of 200 only. The pieces are dedicated to the Cimier brand ambassadors Tanja Frieden, for the ladies and Jorg Stiel, for the gentlemen. As a rather pleasant change of pace both Tanja and Jorg were given the opportunity to be actively involved in the design of the watches and the end results are quite impressive.

Petite Seconde Venom (Pictured Above)
For a former footballer I must say that Jörg Stiel has done an excellent job with his input on this piece. For those of you not familiar with Mr Stiel he was formerly the goalkeeper for the Swiss National Team and also for Mönchengladbach, one of the most traditional clubs in Germany’s Bundesliga

I personally am not terribly experienced with Cimier as a brand but I do know what I like, and the new Petite Seconde Venom is it. A simple dial that still catches the eye, clean lines and just a touch of colour to set things off nicely.

As the name suggests there is something undeniably reptilian about this piece, an appeal that is only further enhanced by the stunning yellow genuine python leather strap. Even still, this watch will warm the heart of even the most cold blooded of critics. Powering this highly limited edition is a blackened and decorated Unitas 6497 hand wound movement.

Seven Seas Arctica
At the complete opposite end of the spectrum we find Tanja Frieden’s take on timekeeping, the ice cold Seven Seas Artica, a stunning piece that takes is design cues from the blue skies and white snow of the Swiss Alps. The watch’s theme is really quite fitting given that Tanja is Switzerland’s young and upcoming snowboard star and so successfully capture the personality of the ambassador it is dedicated to.

The watch dial is quite busy but still relatively easy to read thanks to the contrasting colors used and to reflect Tanja’s involvement in sport the watch features a chronograph function. For the final touches each case back carries her signature and steel bezel is adorned with 12 sparkling black zircons.

The Final Word
I must say that I am quite taken with the Petite Seconde Venom, its simplistic aethetiscs really appeal to me and I feel that it’s a watch I could wear on a regular basis.

The Seven Seas Artica is a little bit to childish for me but perhaps this more accurately reflects the youth of the ambassador it is dedicated too. Nonetheless it is still a fine looking watch and would certainly look good on the wrist of any snow bunny!

*Here’s the full sized photo of the Petite Seconde Venom so you can see that stunning yellow genuine python leather strap.

The name Chaumet is synonymous both with luxury and innovation. The brand is renowned for its collaboration with master watchmakers to create truly stunning and unique timepieces. In their most recent foray the luxury brand has partnered with one of the world’s most celebrated contemporary designer watchmakers Marc Alfieri to introduce their latest complication, the appropriately named Tourbillon Marc Alfieri.

Bold And Beautiful
This new watch represents an ethos shared by both jeweler and designer, ‘be bold’. The company claims that the piece was designed with four key objectives in mind: the quest for the exceptional, the affirmation of powerful designs, complete design freedom and an uncompromising approach to watchmaking.

I’m not so sure if they have achieved all of that but the end result is an undeniably stunning yet subtle piece. The watch is presented in Chaumet’s trademark subdued codes and colours; a smooth black dial is complemented by the black titanium case with white gold highlights. The azure blue finishing provides a nice contrast to what is a rather busy dial and accentuates the diamond setting around the tourbillion carriage.

Powering this unique collaboration is a manual-winding mechanical movement, caliber TM 01, tourbillion which features a carbon-fibre main plate and an X-shaped bridge in blue PVD for a macroscopic vision of carbon fibre.

There is a single push-button and single counter fly-back chronograph, second time zone, day/night indicator of second time zone, vertical indicator of power reserve and a vertical accuracy indicator (“trust index”)

The watch is presented with two straps, one in alligator skin and the other in a high-tech fabric and comes in a numbered presentation case.

The Final Word
The watch almost has a sort of sporty feel to it which is rather unusual in my opinion given that only someone of excessive wealth would have the nerve to wear such a watch for sporting occasions. However, given the caliber of the piece and its highly limited production of only 12 pieces I would suggest excessive wealth is a prerequisite to purchase.

No doubt a stunning collaboration, this piece whilst in its own right impressive simply does not suit my tastes.

How about you?