Posts Tagged ‘Swiss’
An Evening With Peter Speake-Marin
The Swiss town of Rolle, whilst quite pretty, is certainly not on any tourist trail. In fact, if I recall correctly the last time I came through here it was simply an attempt to avoid the blocked motorway. So when I found myself driving through this sleepy, picturesque town on a lovely autumn evening it all seemed a bit surreal. Then again, I was on my way to meet master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin, so really I couldn’t imagine wanting to be anywhere else!
We have organized to meet up over a couple of beers in a disconcertingly odd “English” pub. When I arrive I am pleasantly surprised to see that Peter is in the company of two other gentleman who turn out to be ex-colleagues from Renaud et Papi (the infamous subsidiary of Audemars Piguet) who now make complications under contract. It seems I truly am in the presence of watch royalty this evening.
Considered by many to be a rising star of the horological world, Speake-Marin’s conservatively styled range belies the love and care that he lavishes upon each and every one of them. Recently he gained considerable publicity, first for venturing around the world to promote his watches and then, in a rather sad turn of events, for getting car-jacked in San Francisco for his stock (please see here for details. If you know or hear anything please contact Peter Speake-Marin immediately). Thankfully unharmed, the attack and subsequent loss does not seem to have dimmed his enthusiasm for his products or his vision.
As distressing as this experience was, it also served to demonstrate the level of dedication and passion required to be a successful independent watchmaker, characteristics for which Speake-Marin is well known. Others would be forgiven for being frozen with fear when confronted by an angry assailant, but not Peter. His first reaction to being dragged out of his car was to lean back in and try to grab the bag containing his precious pieces. Now the police will tell you that this is certainly not the right thing to do in this situation, as you may well find yourself face-to-face with a knife or worse, a gun. However, when your job is your life it’s not hard to see why he tried anyway.
As a foreigner in the Swiss dominated industry Peter has had to work extra hard to forge his reputation for high-quality watch-making. The relaxed, modest way he recounts his watch-making journey belies his exceptional pedigree. Studying watch making at Hackney College in London was an accident, restoring and servicing vintage watches for Somlo’s in Piccadilly just a case of being in the right place at the right time and working at “Renaud et Papi” just another job. But talking with his two former R. et P. colleagues it is very clear the esteem in which he is held. Here is a man who knows who he is and where he is going.
The astronomical rise of Peter’s profile in the world of high-end watchmaking cannot be attributed solely to a simple string of good fortune, not by any stretch of the imagination. This is someone who found their calling and with careful thought, a little bit of luck and an exceptional amount of hard work, carved out a successful career. It was only logical that the next step in his journey be the formation and running of his own company.
Speake-Marin’s early model watches were based on a highly modified ETA 2824, perhaps a somewhat overlooked but nonetheless worthy caliber. Whilst this may have not been ideal, Speake-Marin’s time repairing vintage watches taught him that timepieces must last and one way to ensure this was to use a trusted base and then upgrade the movement with his own modifications.
The compromise was well worth it though. The use of the ETA movement allowed him the time and the money to complete his own caliber, the SM2, which would be used as the foundation for all future creations. The good news is that this really is just the beginning and he has already planned out his strategy for several future versions.
As has been the hallmark of his career, Peter’s timing is impeccable. In these times of financial constraint there has been a marked move away from the relentless bright gold and diamonds ever present over the last few years and Speake-Marin’s watches seem ideally placed to take advantage of this. The classic style of his watches coupled with the curved lugs give a nice tight fit on your wrist and a good chunky feel without the unpleasant sensation of walking around with a lead weight attached to your arm. Unlike some other brands which I won’t mention here!!
However when it comes down to it, it is the attention to detail that really takes your breath away. From the unique rotor, visible through the sapphire exhibition back, to the tiny but superbly executed blue-steeled screw that hold the brilliantly enameled dial in place. Any of these subtle touches would be reason enough to purchase one of these amazing watches. Add to this the fact that Peter Speake-Marin is destined to be one of the great watchmakers of this century, and you soon see it’s really not that hard of a choice to make!
To find out more about this amazing man and his creations check out his official website.
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Interview With Denis Giguet, Founder Of Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps
Passionate. Brilliant. Exceptional. These are just some of the words that come to mind when you think of Denis Giguet, the highly successful founder of Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps. At the young age of 39 this incredibly driven French Engineer has already enjoyed a very successful corporate career, first with Rolex and then with Harry Winston Watches where as Head of Production he was closely involved with the highly acclaimed Opus series (from 1 to 6). He then went on to found his own consultancy practice in Geneva where he helped leading brands to realize their own technical goals whilst developing his own ideas and creating his own exciting watch brand.
Today he talks to us about the journey he has been on with Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps and the creation of the truly unique Sequential One, granting us a rare insight into the mind of a horological genius.
TWL: You have had the opportunity to work for several strongly regarded brands throughout your career such as Rolex and Harry Winston. What lessons have you learnt from these highly successful companies that you now apply in your own company?
DG: Where do I start ? Both Rolex and Harry Winston are top companies to work for. Rolex taught me the science of watchmaking combined with high volume manufacturing precision. Rolex are not market leaders for nothing and I retain a huge respect for their stunning watches.
At Harry Winston I was responsible for production of the famous Opus series, Models 1 to 6. Here I had to manage the relationship between challenging, genius designers and a large supply chain in the Swiss mountains. This experience at Harry Winston was invaluable because it taught me how to work effectively and at what is regarded as speed in the world of high horology.
Using this knowledge I was able to design, develop and produce the first prototype of Sequential One in 14 months.
TWL: What inspired you to found MCT Watches and create the Sequential One, a truly unique timepiece?
DG: My grandfather had a very old pocket watch. It was very simple but sometimes, he let me touch this fantastic watch. Fantastic because I was about 10 years old and it was marvelous to open all the covers ; the double back and the face. Discovering the old mechanism on this pocket watch was certainly a big influence behind my later decision to study mechanics and material design.
TWL: The Sequential One was the first watch to be created under the MCT Watches brand. How important was it to you to release a truly exceptional watch to really announce the arrival of an exceptional new independent watchmaker?
DG: Launching a new brand is very high risk and in the current climate that risk is greatly exaggerated. If new watches are not exceptional in their own way, the brand is unlikley to survive for long. For me it was important to design and produce a watch that would be the first of it’s kind, with our own movement. I have to ask others to judge if it is truely exceptional. I am gratified that there has been so much interest in the watch and a strong order book in year1.
TWL: Do you feel that the success of the Sequential One has helped establish MCT Watches as one of the dynamic, new faces of watch-making emerging in Switzerland?
DG: I know that I am enjoying the whole journey I am on. My watches will always make a statement and dynamic visual displays featuring a big hour indication will continue to be part of our DNA. There are a number of exciting young Swiss brands emerging and I hope the media and collectors will count MCT amongst them.
TWL: The Jumping Sequential Hour movement that animates the Sequential One is exceptionally complex and unique. Why was it so important for you to have your own in-house movement and what challenges did you face in engineering this movement?
DG: I believe that for pure authenticity a watch brand must use its own movements. The movement is the heart and essence of any luxury timepiece S1 has 471 component parts with a unique display and movement. The engineering process was extremely complex particularly as I had to think about design with a view to later industrialization, i.e production.
TWL: The Sequential One’s appeal lies not only in complexity but also in its unique design and aesthetic appeal. How long did you, in conjunction with Eirc Giroud, spend designing the watch on paper before you began to move to the production stage?
DG: We spent about 3 months in the detailed design stage but we continued during the whole development project to work on the design. Some production constraints forced us to change the design and sometimes offered us new and fantastic opportunities to improve the design.
TWL: What were the key challenges you faced in bringing your design concept to reality? Did you need to make changes to your original plans in order to make design feasible?
DG: We had to persuade every person involved to think differently to make sure sure they understood my concept and guarantee project cohesion.
I made changes to my original plans because I kept seeing new ways to achieve my aim but that is the beauty of a project like this. It is sometimes tempting to put everything into one watch but i also had to curb my enthusiasm and desire to ensure that we could complete the project on time. But this has given me so many ideas for future designs.
TWL: You have said that the visual displays on your watches will always feature a large and distinctive Hour indicator. Why is that? Is it purely for ease of reading or is this also part of MCT’s visual branding?
DG: A beautiful watch has to create emotion. Every watch I create has to be emotional for me personally. For example, at the beginning of my creation of S1, I wanted to show the time like it has never been shown before -the display of the indication of the hour is the biggest in the world. This is to make the watch essentially easy to read but it will be part of our ongoing DNA too.
I have used a sequence of different moving parts to display the hour but it is also very important that the technology I use can be recognized by connoisseurs as high horology. Before creating S1, I oversaw many complicated watch developments particularly for Harry Winston : OPUS 1-6 and the ‘tourbillon glissière’. The caractéristiques of all of these watches are a combination of design, innovation and tradition.
TWL: What does the future hold for MCT and when can we expect another breathtaking and mind altering timepiece like the Sequential One?
DG: I am of course working on developments for S1. Plus, I must continue to create fascinating new watches. I am working to develop the base of a new movement (don’t forget that at MCT we have our own movement which is very unusual for a small company). Expect exciting news when we attend the Geneva Time Exhibition in January 2010.
For me personally, I am learning to combine watchmaking with business which is a tough challenge. I realize that I must combine my passion and creativity with the reality of managing and building my own watch brand.
Ernst Benz Great Circle Chronoscope Instrument Series Limited Edition
A few months ago Swiss engineer and inventor Ernst Benz announced the introduction of four new limited edition models in the Great Circle Chronoscope Instrument Series. Big and bold the new dial and set of hands has been designed to be reminiscent of the original precision aircraft instrumentation produced by Ernst Benz himself back in the 1960s and 70s. Although the original concept is over thirty years old, the end result is actually quite appealing.
Big And Beautiful
Ernst Benz is known for making big watches and this new release is no exception. Available only in their trademark 47mm size these watches have been designed to be easy to read, as you would expect from a purpose built aviation watch. You also have the choice of two different dials; matte black as featured in the original aircraft version and designed primarily for legibility or alternatively a carbon fibre mesh finish.
The numerals and hands are finished in either white or orange and are coated with luminescent for legibility. The latter color has special significance as or orange is used specifically in aviation for attention. The hands were designed to be exactly like the needles of the gauges of Benz’s original aircraft instruments, and for this release, custom black calendar disks were produced to complement the finish of the dial printed in corresponding colors to match either the white or orange numerals.
As is all the rage at the moment, especially with oversized pilots watches, the case has received the black PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) treatment to ensure it is non-reflective and to further resemble the finish of an aircraft cockpit panel.
Like all Ernst Benz watches this new line has been designed and manufactured in Switzerland. The pieces feature an exhibition back so that you can view the custom rotor for the movement. This new signature EB rotor has been cut out with the EB symbol flagged by wings so as to give the appearance that the rotor is almost flying as it spins. For this series, the rotor has been coated in black PVD to match the finish of the case.
The Final Word
I love the design of these new limited edition pieces from Ernst Benz but the oversized 47mm dial means they are simply impractical for every day wear, at least for most people. Having said that the simple and uncluttered dials of these stunning pieces will make them very appealing to professional pilots and other professionals who require a hard-wearing watch that is highly legible, even under the most stressful conditions.
We can only hope that Ernst Benz decides to release a reduced size model for us earthly bound mortals. 42mm would suit me just fine!
Cimier Announces Two New Limited Edition Watches
Swiss watch brand Cimier has recently announced the release of two stunning new pieces, each limited to a run of 200 only. The pieces are dedicated to the Cimier brand ambassadors Tanja Frieden, for the ladies and Jorg Stiel, for the gentlemen. As a rather pleasant change of pace both Tanja and Jorg were given the opportunity to be actively involved in the design of the watches and the end results are quite impressive.
Petite Seconde Venom (Pictured Above)
For a former footballer I must say that Jörg Stiel has done an excellent job with his input on this piece. For those of you not familiar with Mr Stiel he was formerly the goalkeeper for the Swiss National Team and also for Mönchengladbach, one of the most traditional clubs in Germany’s Bundesliga
I personally am not terribly experienced with Cimier as a brand but I do know what I like, and the new Petite Seconde Venom is it. A simple dial that still catches the eye, clean lines and just a touch of colour to set things off nicely.
As the name suggests there is something undeniably reptilian about this piece, an appeal that is only further enhanced by the stunning yellow genuine python leather strap. Even still, this watch will warm the heart of even the most cold blooded of critics. Powering this highly limited edition is a blackened and decorated Unitas 6497 hand wound movement.
Seven Seas Arctica
At the complete opposite end of the spectrum we find Tanja Frieden’s take on timekeeping, the ice cold Seven Seas Artica, a stunning piece that takes is design cues from the blue skies and white snow of the Swiss Alps. The watch’s theme is really quite fitting given that Tanja is Switzerland’s young and upcoming snowboard star and so successfully capture the personality of the ambassador it is dedicated to.
The watch dial is quite busy but still relatively easy to read thanks to the contrasting colors used and to reflect Tanja’s involvement in sport the watch features a chronograph function. For the final touches each case back carries her signature and steel bezel is adorned with 12 sparkling black zircons.
The Final Word
I must say that I am quite taken with the Petite Seconde Venom, its simplistic aethetiscs really appeal to me and I feel that it’s a watch I could wear on a regular basis.
The Seven Seas Artica is a little bit to childish for me but perhaps this more accurately reflects the youth of the ambassador it is dedicated too. Nonetheless it is still a fine looking watch and would certainly look good on the wrist of any snow bunny!
*Here’s the full sized photo of the Petite Seconde Venom so you can see that stunning yellow genuine python leather strap.
New Collaboration: Chaumet Marc Alfieri Tourbillon
The name Chaumet is synonymous both with luxury and innovation. The brand is renowned for its collaboration with master watchmakers to create truly stunning and unique timepieces. In their most recent foray the luxury brand has partnered with one of the world’s most celebrated contemporary designer watchmakers Marc Alfieri to introduce their latest complication, the appropriately named Tourbillon Marc Alfieri.
Bold And Beautiful
This new watch represents an ethos shared by both jeweler and designer, ‘be bold’. The company claims that the piece was designed with four key objectives in mind: the quest for the exceptional, the affirmation of powerful designs, complete design freedom and an uncompromising approach to watchmaking.
I’m not so sure if they have achieved all of that but the end result is an undeniably stunning yet subtle piece. The watch is presented in Chaumet’s trademark subdued codes and colours; a smooth black dial is complemented by the black titanium case with white gold highlights. The azure blue finishing provides a nice contrast to what is a rather busy dial and accentuates the diamond setting around the tourbillion carriage.
Powering this unique collaboration is a manual-winding mechanical movement, caliber TM 01, tourbillion which features a carbon-fibre main plate and an X-shaped bridge in blue PVD for a macroscopic vision of carbon fibre.
There is a single push-button and single counter fly-back chronograph, second time zone, day/night indicator of second time zone, vertical indicator of power reserve and a vertical accuracy indicator (“trust index”)
The watch is presented with two straps, one in alligator skin and the other in a high-tech fabric and comes in a numbered presentation case.
The Final Word
The watch almost has a sort of sporty feel to it which is rather unusual in my opinion given that only someone of excessive wealth would have the nerve to wear such a watch for sporting occasions. However, given the caliber of the piece and its highly limited production of only 12 pieces I would suggest excessive wealth is a prerequisite to purchase.
No doubt a stunning collaboration, this piece whilst in its own right impressive simply does not suit my tastes.
How about you?
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