Posts Tagged ‘Watch’
A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk – Winner Of The 2009 L’Aiguille d’Or
At the start of this week we reported to you live (in a manner of speaking) from the Grand Prix D’Horlogerie held annually in Geneva. A night filled with glitz and glamor, it is a hugely important evening on the, largely Swiss dominated, watch-maker calendar. As such it provided the perfect setting for the historic moment that was about to unfold. For the first time in the event’s storied history, the prestigious “L’Aiguille d’Or” (“Golden Hand”) award was presented to a luxury watch brand from outside of Switzerland. To some this defies belief but then again, if you’re even remotely familiar with German brand A Lange & Sohne it’s not really that hard to believe at all.
The Stuff Of Champions
So what does it take to win the top award at the Grand Prix D’Horlogerie you ask? Allow me to introduce you to the Lange Zeitwerk, a timepiece that will lull you into a false sense of security with it’s simplistic style and in the same instance completely change your perception of horology with its groundbreaking mechanical mastery. Starting to get the picture?
Indication Of The Times
German companies are renowned for their innovation and refined, practical designs and A Lange & Sohne is no exception. To the casual observer it is not immediately obvious what all the fuss is about regarding the new Zeitwerk and this to me is a significant part of its appeal. In a time when many other brands seem to be focusing on creating ever more complex ways to display the time Sohne has asked, in typical German fashion, how can we make it more simple?
The result: what is possibly the first truly mechanical alternative to the indication of time without the use of rotating hands. Visually stunning and remarkably unambiguous, this new piece represents what can be achieved when a brand focuses on the absolute core elements of a watch. Available in a gold or platinum case and using an uncluttered and clever dial design this watch has been designed to be read with just a quick glance at your wrist. Yet with its smooth lines and fine attention to detail good luck trying to tear your eyes away!
Intricately Simple
However, don’t let the seemingly unassuming appearance of this piece fool you. Beneath the aesthetically pleasing exterior beats the heart of a truly extraordinary movement, the manufacture calibre L043.1. The first thing you notice about this movement is that it features a jumping numerals mechanism for hours and minutes, with the time displayed on two minute discs and a large hour ring. Precisely once a minute, a constant-force escapement generates the necessary switching impulse to propel the minute discs forward as required.
As a special touch the disc switching action is optimized to allow an attentive listener to acoustically distinguish between a single minute advance (which occurs a staggering 1416 times a day) and a collective progression of all three at the full hour (24 times a day).
As you might imagine it takes a huge amount of force to power this complex movement, especially when all three discs need to be simultaneously advanced at each full hour. To achieve this feat the pioneering Germans took the time-honored (no pun intended) principle of wind/unwind function of the mainspring barrel and literally turned it on its head. As the mainspring relaxes, the barrel rotates in the minimized-friction bearing.
Conversely, the mainspring barrel bearing with the higher friction rating is involved while the watch is being wound. As a consequence, a slightly greater effort is required when winding the watch but in return, more of the energy stored in the mainspring remains available for powering the movement.
A constant-force escapement between the barrel wheel and the balance
It doesn’t stop there, though. The company has also created a constant-force escapement which is positioned between the barrel wheel and the balance. This patent-pending mechanism has two crucial functions. On the one hand, it generates the switching steps for the instantaneous jumps of the hour and minute displays, using the strike-train principle with a warning followed by drop-and-release, often found in striking clocks. Never before has a mechanism such as this one been incorporated into a wristwatch, although unfortunately a cuckoo does not pop out to announce the changing of the hour. This intricate constant-force escapement also works to drive the balance with nearly uniform power during the entire autonomy period and thus enhances the rate stability of the movement.
The Final Word
A Lange & Sohne continue to impress me with their thoughtful and innovative creations. In a time where many other brands seem to have lost sight of what the real purpose of a wristwatch is this German pioneer maintains their focus on the basics and creates pieces that are both highly desirable and highly practicable. As such, it was with great pleasure that I first heard about their incredible success at the Grand Prix D’Horlogerie. After all, I could not think of a more fitting brand to be awarded the exalted “L’Aiguille d’Or” for the first time outside of Switzerland.
Could you?
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Weird Watch Wednesday: The Parmigiani Toric Tourbillon
Image courtesy of TimeZone’s archives.
As a longtime fan of all things Parmigiani, I have always taken extra effort to follow the brand, and have been lucky enough to see its watches in person on two occasions. Independently owned and fiercely innovative, Parmigiani have spared no expense to secure itself and its reputation as a true Manufacture. The brand offers simple hand wound watches as well as exceptionally complex pieces.
In order to secure a position at the apex of Haute Horlogerie, Parmigiani have taken two major steps to become vertically integrated and to achieve high standards of quality in its products. In 2000, the company purchased a micro-mechanical engineering company and then spent the next five years setting it up.
The result is the ability of the company to produce its own complete Swiss Lever escapements. The escapement is the regulating organ of a mechanical watch, and is thus responsible for a watch’s timekeeping. The ‘tics and tocs’, so to speak, of a mechanical watch are due to the actions of the escapement.
In 2005, the company created its own criterion for performance and quality in its watches, called the Fleurier Quality Foundation. Parmigiani watches are subjected to many exhaustive tests with the end result always producing outstanding quality!
The Toric Tourbillon is without question a supreme aesthetic achievement. In production since at least as far back as 2004 and currently in production in different permutations, my favorite is pf000383 which is cased in rose gold. The case is 40mm in diameter which in humble opinion is just right! The hands are heat blued steel and the hour and minute hands are in the Javelot style. Bluing steel hands is its own specialty and to achieve the correct consistent color is a challenge. The result in this case is beyond compare. The movement is calibre 121/2, which is wound by hand and is capable of running for 75 hours between windings.
An even more complex variation, the Toric Westminister (above) was designed to reproduce the movement and chime of the famous Westminster Abbey clock – on a much smaller scale, of course!
Known as one of the most difficult complications in Haute Horlogerie, the tourbillon is actually a form of escapement. In a tourbillon, the entire escapement of the watch is itself held inside a “cage” and connected to the rest of the watch in such a way so as to allow the cage to revolve while the watch is in operation. In theory this revolving escapement will mitigate gravity’s influence on the watch and allow it to be more accurate.
Theory is theory and in practice it takes huge amounts of time and effort to produce such a mechanism and it takes even more effort to optimize its performance. As such, in today’s world, the tourbillon is usually not that much more functional in terms of accuracy than other more conventional designs!
In this case, the tourbillon is so pleasing to view in operation, and the overall timepiece is so well finished I feel it is without equal among tourbillons. In fact, this watch does without a dial completely, using indexes on the inner bezel to aid in reading off the time. The level of hand finishing required to make such a watch is top notch, and the end result is breathtaking!!
So, why then is this a weird watch? For some bizarre reason it seems to fly under the radar of collectors of tourbillons whereas in reality it should be the first one they acquire!
Rolex Daytona Series 2 and 3 by Project X Designs
Admittedly I am not the biggest Rolex fan and to be perfectly honest there are a number of other brands out there that I would probably be more inclined towards. Having said that, the Rolex Daytona has always, and will always have, a special place in my heart and hopefully one day on my wrist! As such I cannot deny that my curiosity was piqued then when I heard about Project X Design’s take on this timeless classic.
Project X Designs
In a similar vein to Bamford & Sons, Projext X Designs offers both bespoke and limited edition watches, with the latter being created in highly limited runs of just 24 watches which will not be repeated once sold out. Most recently the company has released the Series 2 and 3 Limited Edition Rolex Daytonas which will soon be followed by the release of the Series 2 and 3 Limited Edition Submariners (apparently Series 1 is quite popular with Mr Bond himself Daniel Craig, although he’s supposed to be an Omega man, but that’s another story entirely!).
Series 2
Highly reflective of current trends the Series 2 (pictured above) appears to be the more customized of the two editions, having received the full PVD treatment. I must admit it is quite a stunning piece, if lacking somewhat in creativity, and the red highlights provide an excellent contrast. The rear has also been fitted with a sapphire exhibition case back so that the wearer can peer in at the inner workings of the superb Rolex movement.
Series 3
Series 3 is somewhat a more subdued affair and non-enthusiasts may be forgiven for not realizing that this is a customized piece. Whilst it also looks quite nice with its monochrome design, brushed case finish, carbon coated bezel and white chronograph hand vaguely reminisce of the iconic ‘Paul Newman’ Rolex Daytonas of the 1970s, in my opinion you’re better of with Series 2. The reason being that if you are going to go the extra effort and pay the additional cost to acquire a limited edition piece you might as well get one that people realize has actually been customized! Otherwise you’re better investing in an original.
The Final Word
As far as customized Rolexes go these two are certainly quite nice. They have maintained enough of the watch’s original character that they are easily recognizable and the quality of the work is excellent. Personally I probably would not wear either simply because I am still not convinced about paying a premium for a customized luxury watch you have already paid a premium for in its original form and because I feel that I feel these pieces lose a certain amount of credibility once they are customized.
Nonetheless, I can still recognise and appreciate the quality of the finish on these pieces although I do wonder what it does to the re-sale value?
For more information check out the official website.
Weird Watch Wednesday – The Black Belt Watch
A new watch has been introduced into the market specifically to honor the achievements of black belt martial artists, aptly named the Black Belt Watch. Apparently this new piece has been designed to recognize the achievements of martial artists who have reached the peak of their chosen art. Forgive my ignorance, but I thought that was what the actual belt itself was for? Regardless, the Black Belt Watch is this week’s weird watch and for good reason.
Are They Serious?
Firstly, I’d just like to state that I have the upmost respect for those who have shown the skill and dedication required to achieve black belt status in their chosen martial art. That said, this new watch concept is quite possibly one of the most ridiculous things I have heard in a long time.
Next we will see watches designed exclusively for hairdressers who have reached the pinnacle of their profession. Certainly nothing against hairdressers here but you the see point I am trying to make.
The grading systems that exist within most forms of martial arts have been passed down through generation after generation. There is no way a simple watch such as this one could even seek to pay sufficient homage to this incredible history. Add to this the fact that this is possibly the most unattractive watch I have ever laid my eyes on and you understand my misgivings.
The Watch Itself
Precious little information is available on the official website about the watch other than that it was “imagined, designed and manufactured by the best watchmakers”. This in itself makes very skeptical, as I am quite confident that the best watchmakers in the world could not produce a monstrosity such as this. The site indicates that the watch is powered by a self-winding mechanical high-end movement entirely manufactured in Switzerland. I am going to go out on a limb here and suggest that this is a ETA movement of some description.
The case is stainless steel with satin-finished and highly resistant PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) coating. The bezel is also steel and has been sandblasted and stamped with polished Kanji characters. Featuring prominently across the dial (there is no mistaking what this watch represents!) is an engraved “Black Belt” which is stamped with its emblematic representation. As a final touch the background’s pattern emulates the fabric used for kimonos and the hands have been designed to replicate a Shinai, the sword used for practice in Kendo.
The Final Word
The Black Belt Watch has failed to impress me in any way, shape or form. It seems that little thought has gone into the creative design of the piece and it is more than likely just another Swiss Made watch powered by a simple ETA movement and certainly not worth the 3,000CHF price tag that comes attached with it. The only redeeming factor of this watch is that a percentage of sales will be donated to the No Difference program that aims to grant young people with a handicap, the chance to realize their passion for a martial art.
Having said that, as the watch is only being offered exclusively to black belt holders, of which I am not one, none of the above really matters I guess. Would I buy one if I did hold a black belt in some form of martial arts?
Would you!?
Sneak Peek: New Panerai Radiomir P.999 42mm Pink Gold (PAM00336)
Panerai, in a pre-SIHH announcement, have produced that rarest of watch moments, a new calibre. Whilst retaining the standard military look of a Panerai the new hand wound movement is only 3.4mm high and this, combined with a slightly smaller case at 42mm, makes this a lighter watch than many previous Panerai models.
In the technical side the new calibre has 19 jewels, a 60 hour power reserve, 154 components and a frequency of 3Hz or 21,600 beats per hour. This movement is planned to be used in other, as yet un-announced models in the Historic Collection. More news on this next week? Let’s wait and see.
In pink gold the overall look is classy and clean with the minimalist look we have come to expect, and the satin finish, rather than a highly polished one, is a welcome change. Though waterproof to 100m I don’t think anything this classy or expensive is going anywhere near the sea, but you never know people do the strangest things.
Panerai is not known for it’s complications and this watch doesn’t stray very far from the norm, with just a perpetually moving seconds hand, which is probably just as well as some of the more compicated Panerai’s are a little bit suspect style wise.
Limited to 500 pieces and part of Panerai’s Historic collection it comes on a dark brown alligator strap with a pink gold pin buckle. With a limited run I don’t think you’ll see many of these on people’s wrists, and if it takes your fancy I would suggest getting the deposit down now.
I have been lucky enough to be invited along to the Panerai presentation in Switzerland next week, so stay tuned for further updates!
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Latest Comments
- Nick Orloff: Beautiful piece, regrettably a little (?) out of my price range. I’d love to...
- Olivier Muller: Thanks, BMW
Stay tuned ! - Jack: Looks like a really nice watch for the price!