Posts Tagged ‘Watch’
Weird Watch Wednesday: AK Geneve’s HMS Automatic Warp
This week’s watch comes from one of my favorite out of the box watch designers, Arny Kapshitzer, and his brand AK Geneve. First announced in 2008 you only have to take one look at the HMS Automatic Warp watch to realize what makes it unique. Yet it is so much more complex than that. That the designer had a possibly unhealthy obsession with a certain popular Sci-Fi series from the 1960s is obvious. What isn’t so apparent at first look is the level of complexity and ingenuity that this watch represents. Admittedly you won’t hit warp speed wearing this piece but you certainly will break a few boundaries.
Melding Wrist And Watch
As I’ve already mentioned Arny was quite taken with the Star Trek series, hence the name and also the reason why he chose to give the case of his watch a shuttle shape, conveying the notion of aerodynamic speed. Emphasizing this concept of streamlined movement the elongated case has been designed to form an extension of the arm, creating a kind of synergy between wearer and watch not normally seen in a watch of this size.
To reflect the fact that the arm is always slimmer at the wrist joint, the watch has been engineered to be thicker on the crown side. A small detail perhaps but this remarkable design works to guide the lines of the watch so that it fits more snugly with the shape of the arm. This, of itself is rather unusual as most watches are designed to sit on top of the wrist, whereas the HMS Automatic is designed to meld with the wrist.
Keeping this sleek design firmly strapped to your wrist is a custom made bracelet formulated from perfluorinated, hypoallergenic rubber that resists all acids. Yes, it is more expensive but it also much more reliable over time than the vast majority of rubbers currently available. Displaying his design genius even in the smallest of details Kapshitzer created a clasp that is recessed into the inner surface of the bracelet so as not to injure or impede the wrist of the wearer.
Mission Control
Undoubtedly though, it is the dial that has really caught your attention. Keeping with the watch’s overall sci-fi theme it resembles something out of a spaceship mission control panel. Located directly in the line of sight of the wearer a cut-away metal piece reveals the jumping hours and minutes on two superimposed discs. The seconds are displayed at 3 o’clock on a cylinder linked directly to the crown with 9 o’clock forming the tail of the “spaceship”.
Flying Into The Future
Not only is the design of the case very futuristic its construction is also quite out of this world. Whilst it is not readily apparent simply by looking at the watch, the middle piece is made entirely of compressed carbon fibre. This serves several purposes, making the watch not only highly shock resistant but also exceptionally light. Composed of 15 different pieces, each one has been lovingly screwed on, using a total of 34 screws. The crown also consists of 20 individual pieces, all of which serve a purpose.
Not Quite Warp Speed
Powering the AK HMS Automatic is the Time Engine 001, a relatively basic automatic movement which has been created in collaboration with Concepto. However, as one expects from such a unique piece attention to detail and the use of exotic materials is almost standard. Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, the oscillating weight is made of iridium alloy with a carbon-fibre plate. The telescopic crown is directly linked to the movement, and is not screw-on but instead has a bayonet fitting and is mounted on a titanium shock-absorber.
The Final Word
It is no secret that this watch will not suit everyone’s taste but it is highly doubtful that that was ever the intention of the designer. I think what you need to take away from this piece is the incredible attention to detail and the demonstration of what is possible. Complex but at the same time simplistic this is something that has been designed, much like the ship it was modeled off, to be used not just admired. Besides, whether you’re a fan of Star Trek or not it is very difficult to deny the sci-fi ‘coolness’ factor of this watch!
Arny is currently in the process of manufacturing the HMS Automatic and has been putting up a series of pictures of the different stages on his Facebook page. Well worth a look!
1 Excellent Comment | Filed under Wow Watch Wednesday
An Evening With Peter Speake-Marin
The Swiss town of Rolle, whilst quite pretty, is certainly not on any tourist trail. In fact, if I recall correctly the last time I came through here it was simply an attempt to avoid the blocked motorway. So when I found myself driving through this sleepy, picturesque town on a lovely autumn evening it all seemed a bit surreal. Then again, I was on my way to meet master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin, so really I couldn’t imagine wanting to be anywhere else!
We have organized to meet up over a couple of beers in a disconcertingly odd “English” pub. When I arrive I am pleasantly surprised to see that Peter is in the company of two other gentleman who turn out to be ex-colleagues from Renaud et Papi (the infamous subsidiary of Audemars Piguet) who now make complications under contract. It seems I truly am in the presence of watch royalty this evening.
Considered by many to be a rising star of the horological world, Speake-Marin’s conservatively styled range belies the love and care that he lavishes upon each and every one of them. Recently he gained considerable publicity, first for venturing around the world to promote his watches and then, in a rather sad turn of events, for getting car-jacked in San Francisco for his stock (please see here for details. If you know or hear anything please contact Peter Speake-Marin immediately). Thankfully unharmed, the attack and subsequent loss does not seem to have dimmed his enthusiasm for his products or his vision.
As distressing as this experience was, it also served to demonstrate the level of dedication and passion required to be a successful independent watchmaker, characteristics for which Speake-Marin is well known. Others would be forgiven for being frozen with fear when confronted by an angry assailant, but not Peter. His first reaction to being dragged out of his car was to lean back in and try to grab the bag containing his precious pieces. Now the police will tell you that this is certainly not the right thing to do in this situation, as you may well find yourself face-to-face with a knife or worse, a gun. However, when your job is your life it’s not hard to see why he tried anyway.
As a foreigner in the Swiss dominated industry Peter has had to work extra hard to forge his reputation for high-quality watch-making. The relaxed, modest way he recounts his watch-making journey belies his exceptional pedigree. Studying watch making at Hackney College in London was an accident, restoring and servicing vintage watches for Somlo’s in Piccadilly just a case of being in the right place at the right time and working at “Renaud et Papi” just another job. But talking with his two former R. et P. colleagues it is very clear the esteem in which he is held. Here is a man who knows who he is and where he is going.
The astronomical rise of Peter’s profile in the world of high-end watchmaking cannot be attributed solely to a simple string of good fortune, not by any stretch of the imagination. This is someone who found their calling and with careful thought, a little bit of luck and an exceptional amount of hard work, carved out a successful career. It was only logical that the next step in his journey be the formation and running of his own company.
Speake-Marin’s early model watches were based on a highly modified ETA 2824, perhaps a somewhat overlooked but nonetheless worthy caliber. Whilst this may have not been ideal, Speake-Marin’s time repairing vintage watches taught him that timepieces must last and one way to ensure this was to use a trusted base and then upgrade the movement with his own modifications.
The compromise was well worth it though. The use of the ETA movement allowed him the time and the money to complete his own caliber, the SM2, which would be used as the foundation for all future creations. The good news is that this really is just the beginning and he has already planned out his strategy for several future versions.
As has been the hallmark of his career, Peter’s timing is impeccable. In these times of financial constraint there has been a marked move away from the relentless bright gold and diamonds ever present over the last few years and Speake-Marin’s watches seem ideally placed to take advantage of this. The classic style of his watches coupled with the curved lugs give a nice tight fit on your wrist and a good chunky feel without the unpleasant sensation of walking around with a lead weight attached to your arm. Unlike some other brands which I won’t mention here!!
However when it comes down to it, it is the attention to detail that really takes your breath away. From the unique rotor, visible through the sapphire exhibition back, to the tiny but superbly executed blue-steeled screw that hold the brilliantly enameled dial in place. Any of these subtle touches would be reason enough to purchase one of these amazing watches. Add to this the fact that Peter Speake-Marin is destined to be one of the great watchmakers of this century, and you soon see it’s really not that hard of a choice to make!
To find out more about this amazing man and his creations check out his official website.
Bremont And Norton Motorbikes: A Winning Combination
*Image courtesy of PuristsPro
Following on from their successful partnership with Martin-Baker, British watch maker Bremont recently teamed up with another iconic British brand, Norton Motorcycles, to produce a stunning limited edition chronograph. Created to celebrate the return of Norton to British soil after a long absence the piece exemplifies Bremont’s classic style and passion for engineering.
Return Of A Legend
Norton was first established in 1898 and quickly grew into a world-wide recognized motorcycle brand renowned for its racing bikes. Sadly, however, the era of the vintage Norton motorcycle ended about 1977 with the demise of the British motorcycle industry.
That was until recently, when the 2009 Festival of Speed held in July this year saw the return home of the quintessentially British brand, after a successful repatriation of the famous marque from its previous American owners, by CEO Stuart Garner.
It’s All About Timing
Given their exceptional reputation for precision watchmaking Bremont was the easy choice for the Official Timing Partner for the 2009 Festival of Speed. Fortuitously this coincided perfectly with the re-launch of Norton who were looking for a watch brand that shared their passion for engineering and embodied a strong sense of British heritage.
Bremont is well known for its high standard of quality and manufacture and has always had a strong focus on the use of the finest of British engineering which according to Mr. Garner makes them a natural fit for Norton;
“Bremont have the same standards of quality and manufacture that Norton have held dear for many years, we look forward to an exciting partnership of two exclusive and quality driven British brands.”
Bremont’s Co-founder Nick English couldn’t agree more commenting that;
“with our personal interest in vintage motorcycles combined with our backgrounds heavily influenced by aviation, it is an absolute delight to be working with Norton.”
*Image courtesy of PuristsPro
Racing Style
The watch itself is understated in Bremont’s classic English fashion and heavily features the iconic styling of the Norton motorbikes. As you would expect from a racing watch it is fitted with a chronograph function with sub dials at 3 and 9 o’clock and a date window at 6 o’clock. Encapsulated within a 43mm stainless steel case the piece is finished with a beautiful leather strap.
Limited to only 200 pieces, each Bremont Norton chronograph mechanical watch is hand crafted at the Bremont workshop in Switzerland and will retail for £3,850 (inc vat).
The Final Word
This latest partnership between Bremont and Norton further cements the ongoing commitment to the revival of British manufacturing, and to great effect. Once again brothers Nick and Giles English have delivered an exceptional, limited edition timepiece which remains true to their brand and their vision and exemplifies their dedication to high quality, precision engineering.
Just like the bikes they proudly represent, this watch is destined to become a collector’s item.
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