Posts Tagged ‘Watch’
Behold: The Phoenix 10.1, By A. Favre & fils
When you represent 10 generations of watchmakers it is more than understandable that you may feel a little pressure. However, if he does, Laurent Favre does not show it. Instead, he gives us a timepiece of exceptional quality and refinement; the utterly unique Phoenix 10.1.
Representing the culmination of nearly three centuries of watch-making know how, the Phoenix will both deceive you with its simplistic design and at the same time delight you with its hidden complexities.
Keeping It In The Family
Laurent can trace his watch-making heritage all the way back to 1718 thanks to an official document saved in the Neuchâtel State Archives. This document is in fact a contract between Abraham Favre and the master watchmaker Daniel Gagnebin, in which Gagnebin committed to teach Favre the profession of watch-making to the extent of his knowledge for a period of three years, thus marking the beginning of the Favre watch-making history.
Over the ensuing centuries the Favre name has continued remained involved in watch-making in one capacity or another. Now, after a lifetime of grooming Laurent has become the 10th generation of Favre’s to heed the watch-making call. Although centuries of knowledge flow through his veins, Laurent wisely chose to spend the first years of his career learning the industry, working as the Head of Communication and later on as the Head of Product Development for a well-known Swiss brand.
Once he felt he had learnt all that he needed to, he was ready to step out and design his first piece under the A. Favre & fils’ name.
The result?
The Phoenix 10.1. A gorgeous timepiece that showcases Favre’s remarkable abilities both as a watch-maker and a product designer.
The Phoenix 10.1
Quite obviously the first thing you notice when you look at the Phoenix is that one quarter of the dial is dedicated to the date display. Called the Quantième à Grand Affichage Rotatif, this big date display is an original and patented development designed in-house by Favre. The purpose of this unique system is to optimize the number of components, therefore increasing reliability, by reducing the number of moving parts to the minimum: in this case, just two.
Not only is it supremely easy to read, it is also completely unlike anything you will find on another timepiece, ensuring that your watch stands out from the crowd for all the right reasons.
However, whilst the large date display may be the most obvious example of what makes this piece special, it is by no means the only one. To illustrate, the seemingly simplistic 41mm case is actually quite a complex assembly designed based on the principles of the Golden Ratio (φ) and the Golden Number (7) from the Pythagorean School. Unfortunately it is too difficult to explain these concepts in detail, however, the brand’s website contains an excellent series of diagrams which will walk you through the process.
Housed within the 18k white gold or Palladium 150 case and visible through the sapphire case back is a superb, manual-wind in-house calibre DB 1334/1 HENRY (a tribute to Henry A. Favre, 8th generation of the Favre watchmakers) beating at 28,000 variations per hour. A combination of modern technology and centuries of watch-making history, the exceptionally well-made movement is treated to a number of traditional finishing techniques including; chamfering, drawing, circular graining, sinks entirely done by hand, and a “Rayons de la Gloire” (Rays of Glory) machine finish on the bridges.
Parallel twin barrels with direct depth offer up to 84 hours of power reserve when fully wound, with a power reserve indicator visible through the sapphire case-back.
The Final Word
Although the Phoenix 10.1 is an exceptional timepiece, what truly makes it attractive is its relative anonymity. So far the piece has received limited coverage in watch media, although everything that has been written is, not surprisingly, very positive. As such, this represents a unique opportunity for you to acquire a piece that will not only be the envy of your peers but also truly showcase your credentials as a fine timepiece connoisseur.
Be warned though, it won’t take long before this piece becomes a big hit.
To find out more visit the brand’s official website at: www.afavrefils.com
What do you think? Leave a comment. | Filed under Exclusives and Previews, New This Week, Watch Reviews
How Does A Minute Repeater Work?
The Minute Repeater complication (such as the one in the Jean Dunand Grande Complication we featured last week) is widely considered to be the most complex and challenging of all complications, presenting a true test of skill for master watchmakers seeking to reach the pinnacle of their craft. But just why is that? What is it about the Minute Repeater complication that makes it so…well, complicated?
Well, who better to answer that question than two master watch-makers themselves?
Brothers Tim and Bart Grönefeld cemented their reputations as master watchmakers with the introduction of the Grönefeld GTM-06 Tourbillon Minute Repeater (pictured above in platinum), the most complicated wristwatch ever created in the Netherlands. Four years in the making the piece features a tourbillon movement as well as a minute repeater complication.
As such, they are more than qualified to explain the detailed intricacies of this most technical of complications and fortunately for us (and you) they have been thoughtful enough to do so. In a detailed article posted to their Facebook page, complete with illustrations, you will learn exactly how a minute repeater works using snails, racks, levers and cams.
The article is comprehensive without being overpowering and is most certainly deserving of five minutes of your precious time. So, if you would like to expand your knowledge of Haute Horology then simply click here and read on.
And don’t forget to share this excellent resource with your fellow enthusiasts, they’ll definitely thank you for it!
Hublot Unveils New FIFA World Cup Watch!
Recently we told you about the exciting new partnership between Swiss watch-maker Hublot and the FIFA World Cup (if you missed it you can read all about it here plus check out our exclusive interview with Hublot CEO JC Biver here.) Now Hublot has released the first images of the inaugural, official FIFA World Cup Watch.
Take a look and let us know what you think!
Classic Fusion Between Sport And Luxury
Presented in Hublot’s newly introduced “Classic Fusion” case, the watch is fashioned almost entirely from 18ct pink gold and is luxuriously understated. Keeping with the monotone theme the satin-finished matching pink gold dial features a subtle tone-on-tone drawing of the prestigious FIFA World Cup Trophy at 6 o’clock.
A larger illustration of the world’s most prestigious sports prize is also engraved on the watch’s solid gold case-back, hiding the automatic winding HUB1112 movement from view.
Available in a limited number of just 100 numbered pieces the very first Hublot World Cup watch will be presented on an adjustable black Alligator Gummy strap.
The Final Word
To be honest at first we were a little surprised at just how simple and understated the all new Hublot World Cup timepiece is. However, now that we’ve had a little time to reflect on it we’re really starting to understand and appreciate its appeal, which much like the World Cup itself, is global. The classic design is timeless and at the same time all encompassing, providing the perfect blend of sport and luxury.
Although it may not suit our tastes completely we do think it is a very good first timepiece to celebrate the World Cup.
The question is; what do you think?
My Watch: Laurens W. Floyd, Jr., custom Sarpaneva Korona Red Gold
My name is Laurens W. Floyd, Jr. and I am retired CFP and general partner of Edward Jones. I am a collector and currently own Maurice Lacroix, Breitling, Rolex, A. Lange and Sohne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Perrelet, Hublot, Dornbluth & Sohn, Meistersinger, and Peter Speake-Marin pieces in addition to my favorite watch, a custom Sarpaneva Korona Red Gold.
I fell in love with the Korona the minute I saw it. I went to Stepan Sarpaneva’s workshop one Sunday in June and instantly knew I had to own one!
Over the next three months, Stepan and I took the Korona RG and customized the watch by adding steel indices to the front of the watch instead of black gold, had the rear skeletonized in blue gold instead of black, and had a special serial number engraved on the rear…all of these are different than the standard model.
I wore the watch to dinner the other night. No one saw it (I do not think!) as it was under my shirt sleeve and jacket sleeve but I knew it was there and I knew it was special.
I love this watch. It is comfortable to wear, not too heavy, and fits well under a shirt sleeve. In summary it is the perfect watch to wear when you “dress up”, it is unusual, and makes me feel very special.
Who Wants To Look Amazing? Introducing The Benzinger Boutique Collection
A while ago we introduced you to the truly exceptional, one-of-a-kind Minute Repeater 2 timepiece from master craftsmen Grieb & Benzinger Platinum. Now, it gives us great pleasure to announce the all new Benzinger Boutique Collection, a unique combination of pure beauty and intricate craftsmanship designed to completely enthrall the wearer.
Think we’re exaggerating? Read on and decide for yourself.
The Benzinger Boutique Collection
Offered in white gold, pink gold and steel on request these stunning new timepieces are mostly based on manually wound movements from Unitas and showcase the extraordinary talents of Jochen Benzinger and Georg Bartkowiak. Characterized by hand-skeletonized movements, genuine hand-guilloché dials and technical modifications such as the striking position of the hour and minute displays above the dial, the Boutique Collection represents a superb combination of traditional craftsmanship and modern design.
We’ve picked out some of our favorites which we think you’re going to love too. First up is the aptly named and extremely desirable ‘Beauty and the Beast’ Collection:
The White Dragon (Beauty):
White mother-of-pearl dial, hand-created and applied dragon, white leather strap, diamond bezel, 18K White gold case, 42 mm, movement set with pavé diamonds, €32.500,00.
The Black Dragon (Beast):
Black sterling silver dial, hand-created and applied dragon, black hand-sewn alligator leather strap, 18K White gold case, 42 mm, oignon-style crown, hand-skeletonized, hand-engraved and hand-guilloché movement with flame-blued screws; black and gold finish, €20,500.
However, if you are a true connoisseur of skeletonized dials than you cannot go past the phenomenal Fancy Blossom collection. Presented in three different variations (Cherry Blossom, Coffee Blossom and Ice Blossom) these are no longer timepieces, they are superb works of art!
The Coffee Blossom
Movement completely skeletonized, engraved and engine-turned by hand, 18K White gold case with leather strap, 42 mm, diamond bezel, €25.500,00
The Final Word
It seems like more and more we are seeing a return to the traditional values of exceptional craftmanship, quality and individuality in the watch industry as high-end consumers continue to raise their expectations and demand highly-customized, unique pieces.
Whilst the new Boutique collection is designed to be more accessible (relatively speaking) than the Grieb & Benzinger Platinum series, you can be almost guaranteed you will not see a similar piece on anyone’s else wrist given the highly limited production numbers (approximately 100 pieces a year maximum). Beautifully executed, every piece in the collection demonstrates the standard of quality and attention to detail that Benzinger are renowned for.
Plus gentleman if you treat yourself to a Black Dragon and your lovely partner to a White Dragon everybody wins. Same goes for you too ladies!
If you would like to know more get on to the official Benzinger Boutique website: www.benzinger-boutique.com
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- Nick Orloff: Beautiful piece, regrettably a little (?) out of my price range. I’d love to...
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Stay tuned ! - Jack: Looks like a really nice watch for the price!