Posts Tagged ‘Watch’
De Bethune DB 25 Sport Watch – Take A Closer Look
Some said it simply wasn’t possible to make a high-end, superbly crafted and highly practical sport’s watch. Swiss watchmaker De Bethune said otherwise. And lucky for us they did because the DB 25 sports watch the company has created is simply stunning. However, as you’ll soon find out, it’s not just about good looks this is a high-end sports watch that has been designed to be worn.
The De Bethune Story
Don’t be too surprised if you haven’t heard of De Bethune before but definitely be disappointed. This young company has managed the amazing feat of producing some of the most outstanding pieces the industry has seen of recent times (such as their truly remarkable ‘Dream’ watches) whilst still managing to fly relatively under the radar in mainstream watch media.
Why this is the case I have no idea, however, take my advice and have a closer look at this amazing watch-maker (you can start by checking out their website: www.debethune.ch).
When you consider who is behind De Bethune, however, it is not hard then to understand the company’s ability to demonstrate sheer creative brilliance and highly innovative thinking. The brainchild of two highly respected industry veterans, De Bethune was founded in 2002 by Denis Flageollet and David Zanetta. The former has spent his career creating watches and mechanical calibers and is credited with creating over 120 exceptional timepieces while the latter has built a world-class reputation for his unparalleled knowledge of historical watch-making, spending a considerable amount of his career as a consultant to some of the world’s most prestigious watch collections.
Ever since the company’s formation the two have worked together to successfully create timepieces that blend traditional watch-making with highly-innovative thinking and simply transcend all expectations.
The DB 25 sport watch we have for you today is no exception
Re-defining The Sport Watch
The DB 25 is not a traditional sport watch in any sense of the word. For starters it looks far too delicate and expensive. Yet its elegant simplicity belies the piece’s robust design and technical superiority. For example, the 44mm case and lugs are machined from a single solid block of gold rather than soldered. This process, while more demanding (and expensive) to manufacture ensures greater strength and seamless design ensuring the piece not only looks amazing but is also comfortable to wear.
Similarly the hand guilloched dial, available in blued titanium or silvered, is crafted with absolute precision and provides the wearer with a stunningly attractive piece that is uncluttered and easy to read. The trademark power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock helps you keep an eye on the impressive energy storage capacity of 6 days, although given that this is an automatic movement its purpose is arguably more visual appeal than practical application. Still, we’re not complaining!
What really impresses us about this piece, however, is what’s inside.
The OB2024 automatic movement is comprised of 274 components and has been finely finished with all steel parts either being hand beveled or hand polished. The automatic winding rotor is crafted from platinum for maximum winding efficiency and pivots on oil-free low-friction ceramic bearings. Acknowledging that this is a sports watch the rotor is protected by a central anti-shock system comprising four spring arms and 12 jewels.
The balance is a made from titanium (high strength/lightness ratio) and platinum (high mass). Four titanium arms support four titanium inertia blocks shaped like streamlined torpedoes to create a class leading inertia/mass ratio. A free-sprung balance spring with the De Bethune flat terminal curve ensures superb isochronism, high shock resistance and reduced movement height. Double self-adjusting mainspring barrels supporting their springs between six ruby friction-reducing bars ensure the impressive 6 day power reserve is maintained.
Finished off on an alligator leather strap with tang buckle the DB 25 is available in either red gold or white gold and will cost you somewhere between $45,000 – $50,000.
The Final Word
The DB 25 is yet another breathtaking example of why De Bethune deserves, nay, demands your attention. The watch-maker’s attention to detail and adherence to the traditional principals of watch-making is evident in every piece and yet at the same time there is a constant focus on moving forward and innovating.
This perfect blend has led to the creation of some of the most superb timepieces you will ever see. So do yourself a favor and have a closer look: www.debethune.ch or jump on their brand new Facebook Page.
1 Excellent Comment | Filed under New This Week, Watch Reviews
The Corum Admiral’s Cup Deep Hull 48 – Bold Is Beautiful
As an industry observer it is always enjoyable to see a once strong brand surge back on the scene after a period of relative inactivity. Corum is such a brand, seeming almost dormant for a while and then out of nowhere surprising us (quite pleasantly we might say) in 2009, demanding our attention with the launch of their second in-house movement and a number of novelties, including variations of the very unique Ti-Bridge series.
In 2010 the brand has continued to build on this momentum introducing two new Golden Bridge pieces as well as a special edition deep sea diving watch, the Admiral’s Cup Deep Hull 48, which we have to say is absolutely superb.
Still, those familiar with the brand know to expect nothing less.
A Brief History
For those of you not so well acquainted with Corum, it’s important to know a little of their history to truly appreciate the brand’s most admired characteristics. Founded in 1955 in the spiritual home of watch-making, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Corum was created by a young and talented watch-maker by the name of Rene Bannwart. After having worked for several other prestigious brands he decided it was time for him to establish his own identity as a watch-maker. To do this he enlisted the help of his uncle, Gaston Ries and together the two set about building a brand that was unlike any other.
The goal was simple, Corum wanted to be positioned at the forefront of Swiss watch-making, pioneering new concepts in design and expression. Perhaps the burning ambition the two men shared is best illustrated by the brand’s emblem, a key pointing skywards. Not only is this indicative of the brand’s pioneering and innovative spirit, but also their desire to conquer new territories and quite simply put, become the masters of time.
Yet, it wasn’t until 1966 when Jean-Rene Bannwart, Rene’s son, joined the company that the brand’s identity as we know it today was truly established. He is credited with creating the models which were to become Corum’s trademark, especially the topic of today’s post and arguably Corum’s most recognised series, the Admiral Cup.
Many years later highly successful entrepreneur and philanthropist Severin Wunderman purchased the Corum brand and when questioned about his plans for the future, he replied;
“Making watches that meet the criteria of savoir faire and aesthetics with the daring approach that has always characterized Corum.”
And certainly it would seem that he has achieved that goal. Today Corum has grown from small private label watch factory into an internationally acclaimed brand, infamous for its unique sense of style.
Which brings us to the focus of this article.
The Admiral’s Cup Deep Hull 48
2010 marks the 50th anniversary of the birth of Corum’s yacht-inspired Admiral’s Cup series and so to celebrate this special occasion the brand unveiled a special limited edition model designed for the requirements of deep-sea diving. Aptly named the Deep Hull 48, this new piece will be produced in a limited series of two versions – one in titanium, and the other in black PVD titanium.
Without a doubt the new Deep Hull is a striking watch, not least of all thanks to its imposing 48mm diameter. Yet its bold style is also one of its most attractive qualities. This is distinctly a Corum timepiece, the trademark masculinity of the Admiral Cup design is unmistakable and it somehow manages the neat feat of being unique without appearing too unusual or over the top.
From a practical point of the view the Deep Hull embodies everything one expects from a top quality dive watch. Functionality takes centre stage and has not been compromised in any way for the sake of aesthetics. The clean, uncluttered dial is easy to read and has received more than ample luminescent treatment ensuring it remains highly visible under water.
And trust us you’re going to need all the luminosity you can get where you’re going.
The Deep Hull is rated to an impressive 1,000m of water resistance (we’re told it gets pretty dark down there) and as you would expect is equipped with a fully functioning automatic helium escape valve (what is this?) and unidirectional rotating elapsed time bezel.
Powering this mighty beast is a self-winding mechanical movement, the Corum CO947, which has obtained COSC certification and is therefore officially a chronometer. (Not sure what that means? Read all about it here.) The mechanism allows rapid adjustments to the day and date indications via the crown, and it also features a hacking seconds function to enable exact setting with a time signal. Power reserve of the barrel is 42 hours.
Available in a limited production of 500 pieces in titanium and just 155 examples in black PVD-finished titanium, all models are fitted with a 24mm rubber strap bearing the Corum signature and a wide titanium prong buckle.
The Final Word
We absolutely love this piece for what it is; bold, unforgiving and resolutely masculine. The Deep Hull 48 represents all the exceptional qualities Corum has come to be so well known for and we can say with confidence that this is truly a timepiece that has been designed to be worn, not just admired. Instantly recognizable thanks to its unique style and trademark design the Deep Hull 48 is a not so subtle reminder of what this great brand is truly capable of.
We’ve certainly been converted!
How To Move Forwards While Looking Backwards – Innovation In The Watch Industry Part.4
In Part.3 we looked at how young watch-maker Romain Jerome is attempting to turn a concept into an icon, with the on-going development of their DNA of Famous Legends series. Today, we turn our attention to another, far more established brand who has already achieved all that and so much more. The challenges they face are somewhat different yet overcoming them are just as integral to the brands continued success.
The question is, how can you be innovative and forward-looking when so much of your brand’s identity is so inherently linked to one particular series ?
The Icon
It’s fair to say that when most people (well watch people anyway) think of Audemars-Piguet, they think of the Royal Oak series. To such an extent some might argue, that it almost seems like the other references live in the shadow of their famous big brother. Rest assured though that these other magnificent pieces, such as the Jules Audemars or the Millenary, are alive and well, and continue to reflect the sublime expertise of this highly respected Manufacture.
Nonetheless though, is it possible that the Royal Oak in someway inhibits the brand’s ability to grow, its ability to create and attract new interest? Arnaud Vidal, General Manager of Audemars Piguet France certainly doesn’t think so:
“Without any hesitation, no. The Royal Oak is for us and for our clients an iconic product and it’s important to remember, from a market perspective, that some brands struggle all their life to be associated with an iconic product. We, we have it, and our clients are very attached to it.”
Developing Not Just Creating
Certainly no arguments here, but what impact does this have on innovation? Especially when you consider that more than 50% of the brand’s revenue comes from one single model, what incentive is there to be developing new models? However, as Vidal rightly points out, innovation isn’t just about developing new models. It also involves developing the models you already have:
“Even at the unique scale of the Royal Oak and its declensions Royal Oak Offshore, we are in constant innovation, following three different axis : materials, finishing, and complications.”
Indeed Audemars Piguet owns one of the most powerful and productive R&D departments in the industry (Renaud et Papi) and it utilizes this facility to great effect. A perfect example of what Mr. Vidal is talking about is the Millenary Carbon, which features a case made from a combination of aluminium, steel, nickel, and forged carbon (the last of which is the equivalent of more than 100 kilometres of compressed carbon fibers!)
On the complications side, Audemars-Piguet also demonstrates their know-how, for instance with a superb tourbillon and a double cylinder which ensures 12 days of regulated autonomy.
Still though, this Millenary Carbon is a limited edition, a tactic which is becoming increasingly common in the industry and in this context makes us question whether the brand is relying on the Royal Oak for its core business and then creating limited editions to generate buzz for the brand?
Although many would consider this a commercially sensitive topic Vidal does not shy away and answers us without any ambiguity:
“No, and for four reasons. The first one is that we don’t need limited editions in our product range, as we unveil around thirty new items per year, amongst which limited editions are just a part.
The second reason is that our limited editions are designed as a special attention, a thanks for our closest customers. As a proof, each limited edition is almost completely sold out even before we produce it.
The third reason is that we don’t markup our limited editions, except, of course, with the potential additions we made to the standard version and that could impact the final price.
Last but not least, the fourth reason is that the limited edition concept, often seen as a sales booster, is on the contrary, for us, a constraint; we are a traditional manufacture with limited production (editor’s note: 25.000 units / year), and each limited edition that we make requires the use of our production tools and consequently slows down the production of our standard models.”
The Final Word
It seems that unlike some of the other brands we have looked at so far, Audemars-Piguet invests in innovation (at least in part) as a way of rewarding its loyal customers. Arguably a key difference here is that AP is a very established and well-respected brand and therefore isn’t as concerned with proving its merit as a watch-maker.
Regardless though, the knowledge and expertise gained from these special editions still flows down to the standard range, ensuring the company continues to produce innovative timepieces of the highest quality.
On The Wrist Review: The Tyndall By Xetum
A few months ago we told you about a new and highly original brand called Xetum. Based in the United States the young company introduced their first collection of timepieces late last year. Recently we were lucky enough to get our hands on one of their cool new timepieces known as the Tyndall and let’s just say we were pretty impressed.
A Unique Style
Although all the watches are made in Switzerland they are designed in San Francisco where the company is headquartered. This means that the sources of inspiration and influence are completely different from say those of a European based designer, and it shows.
Decidedly minimalist the Tyndall’s key strength lays in its simplicity. The dial is attractive and easy to read, and although it is very basic the effective use of contrasting colors means that it still draws attention. From our experience on the wrist this funky looking piece drew a number of compliments from envious admirers not to mention stares of disbelief when they heard the price (just US$1,395).
The stylish stainless steel case is perfectly sized at 40mm making it suitable to wear as a dress watch or for more casual occasions. The uncluttered dial also makes it appear slightly larger than it is and means the wearer can read the time with just a quick glance at their wrist, although given its eye-catching appearance you may find it harder than you think to drag your eyes away.
On the reverse side of the watch the exhibition case back reveals the timepiece’s beating heart, a Swiss ETA 2895-2 movement. Whilst by no means a complicated or specialized movement, it is accurate and reliable and for this price that’s more than you can ask for.
Whilst looking at the back side of the Tyndall you’ll also notice that it has been designed without lugs and so the naturally tanned leather strap attaches directly to the case, ensuring a snug fit on the wrist. As an extra finishing touch the underside of the leather strap features a unique, and eco-friendly, Italian cork lining and the clasp is a push-button butterfly deployment that is signed with the Xetum logo.
The Final Word
Xetum have come out with a very solid offering for their first collection delivering a timepiece that is both stylish and well made, not to mention well-priced. The design is simple but at the same time distinctive and the quality of the piece is evident from the moment you take it out the box.
Overall we were very impressed and certainly recommend the Tyndall if you’re looking for a timepiece that is reasonably priced and highly versatile.
For more information check out www.xetum.com
A Closer Look At The “Palace” From Jean Dunand
During SIHH I was able to meet up with the representatives of Jean Dunand at a hotel outside the main venue. Now I like their watches, I think their “Toubillion Orbital” movement is very interesting, but while I admire the technical achievement of the dials and their use of a whole range of techniques from enamel and lacquer through to natural stones, they just don’t do it for me.
However over the last 10 days or so a teaser campaign has been on-going on Twitter and Facebook. Allusions to mechanical workings and architecture along with teaser photos have been the order of the day and have become more and more exciting. Well last week I had the fantastic opportunity to see the MB&F “Thunderbolt” machine and this week I am in the right place to see the new mechanical masterpiece from Jean Dunand.
The watch takes its cues from the “Art Deco” period having a pronounced architectural theme. The watch is called “The Palace” and by any measure is a big, and I mean BIG, watch. To all intents and purposes square, it is an assembly of mechanical complications presented in a masterpiece of a case.
So let’s start with the case, each corner is marked with representations of the feet of the Eiffel Tower, the sides arch towards the face with the space under the arch being filled with sapphire crystal to allow you to see the inner workings. The case is a mixture of titanium and gold, the titanium both frosted and polished with gold strands mimicking the lattice work of the Eiffel Tower’ś structure.
Technically the movement is a single button chronograph, but truthfully that doesn’t do it justice. At first glance it looks like the steel structure of a skyscaper; different layers, pillars and pulleys that entice you in to look closer. In fact is it much more complicated than that, down the side are two indicators, the right side is the power reserve and the left is the GMT indicator. This is set by a button on the edge of the case marked “GMT” so you aren’t in any doubt.
Both of these indicators are set pierced beams, unusually these are powered by a chain, yes really a chain, which is assembled in-house and each one takes five full eight hour days to put together, now that’s what I call dedication.
The GMT indicator has a further complication because while the power reserve just goes up and down the GMT has 1 – 12 on one edge and 13 -24 on the other, it points to the right during the morning and then flips to the left for the afternoon, I like that.
Perhaps the biggest reservation I have is the size, as I said at the beginning it’s big, though not as heavy as you might think, the use of titanium and other exotic materials keeps it as svelte as possible. But there is no getting away from the size, perhaps the closest thing is the Richard Mille pocket watch, but that is a brute, and heavy. I did ask if they had considered making a pocket version and I wasn’t laughed off so it remains a possibility so keep an eye out.
The watch will be available around September or October depending on any last minute changes that might be needed, prices to be announced, but likely to be high as will be demand. If you are in the market this should be a serious contender for your money.
I am pleased to say here is a Jean Dunand watch I can really get excited about.
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Latest Comments
- Nick Orloff: Beautiful piece, regrettably a little (?) out of my price range. I’d love to...
- Olivier Muller: Thanks, BMW
Stay tuned ! - Jack: Looks like a really nice watch for the price!