Think of one of the most unique, innovative and just down-right cool timepieces you have ever seen and then imagine it dressed in all black. That’s exactly what super exclusive luxury watch-maker Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps (MCT) have done and the result, the all new Sequential One All Black, is nothing short of superb.

In fact, quite frankly, we think this is one of the most sophisticated and seductive timepieces we’ve ever seen. However, don’t take our word for it, read on and judge for yourselves.

MCT Watches
If you’re not familiar with MCT Watches then you have most certainly been missing out. Comprised of an extremely talented team of watch-makers led by their pioneering founder Denis Giguet, MCT’s first creation, the highly acclaimed Sequential One, became an instant hit with collector’s and connoisseurs the world over.

And it’s not hard to see why.

The Sequential One is a complex masterpiece where each function is based on a combination of elements rotating on three dimensional axes, at different speeds and moments. It is more complicated than a tourbillion and each timepiece takes many days to assemble in MCT’s Geneva Atelier.

Conceived by Giguet and then designed in conjunction with another very famous player in the industry, watch designer extraordinaire Eric Giroud (read our exclusive interview with him here) the Sequential One represented the culmination of everything Giguet had learned during his time as the Head of Production at Harry Winston, overseeing the production of the famous Opus series (1 – 6).

A self-confessed passionate student of the last 200 years of Swiss high horology Giguet says he has a great respect for the watches made by his peers but at the same time acknowledges his ever present desire to create his own vision.

“I aim to ‘change the face of time’ by using new and quite unique movements and visual displays, always featuring a large and distinctive Hour indicator” he explains. “Many expensive watches have appeared with weird and wonderful designs but they often have very little functionality. Our customers tell us that they now want to buy “real” watches, not pure objects of fantasy.”

Even still, we can’t help but think there is something distinctively magical about this latest offering. Perhaps even…Black Magic?

The All Black Treatment
Available from June this year as a very special limited production model of just 20 pieces a year worldwide, we predict the Sequential One All Black will be an even bigger success with collectors than the original model.

Don’t believe us?

Well, the first 10 pieces for 2010 have already been pre-sold, so if you are considering adding one of these exceptional timepieces to your collection our advice would be not to wait too long. If you’re not yet convinced, read on and we think you might change your mind.

As you can see the distinctive case has received a carbon black DLC treatment using Gold as the base metal, resulting in an elegantly sculpted, sophisticated timepiece without compare. The black alligator leather strap, complete with dynamic red stitching, ensures that the Sequential One All Black fits snugly to your wrist, held in place by the unique MCT gold deployment buckle which is presented in a mix of gold and gold with black DLC treatment.

Just like the original model the stunning dial display comprises over-sized Hour numerals on 12 prism faces and a jumping, sapphire crystal dial, which combines with a single gold hand to indicate the Minutes. However, in this limited edition the prism faces have received a special dark coating which may seem like a minor detail but it really makes the large numerals stand out in contrast.

On the rear of the watch a sapphire exhibition case-back allows for unobstructed views of the breathtaking in-house designed and assembled movement which has been coated with Black DLC and contrasts superbly with the gold highlights.

It’s important to take a moment here to fully appreciate the significance of an in-house designed and assembled movement as it is rare these days that companies design such complex masterpieces themselves, preferring instead to outsource this task. However, for Giguet, this was never an option;

“The starting point for me in designing Sequential One was to develop and build an exclusive in-house MCT movement which we have called the ‘Jumping Sequential Hour’. It is rare for Swiss watch brands to have their own movement but for me it is a pre-requisite for any authentic, high horology company.”

As such, whilst some external suppliers were utilized to machine some of the parts required, the design and assembly process as well as quality-control testing was performed in-house by Denis and MCT’s own team of watchmakers, comprising head watch-maker Jérome Marcu, Baptiste Guye and Alexandre Bonnet. Therefore, for those fortunate enough to own one of these outstanding machines, they will have the peace of mind knowing that all servicing will also be conducted in-house by Jerôme and his highly trained team.

The Final Word
It is not often that we see limited edition re-imaginings of original models that really capture our imagination and cause us to re-examine everything we thought about their original incarnations. The MB&F HM 3 ‘The Frog’ is such a timepiece, as is the Urwerk UR-CC1 Black Cobra. Now, we have a third watch to add to this extremely exclusive list, the Sequential One All Black.

Never could we have imagined that MCT could do anything to this masterful timepiece to make us desire it any more than we already did (which was a lot for the record!) and yet they have. Not by making it more complicated or fancy, but instead by refining it and allowing its ever present elegance and sophistication to truly shine through.

What ever form of magic is at play here, black or otherwise, we have most certainly fallen under its enchanting spell.

To learn more visit MCT’s official website – www.mctwatches.com

Well, it’s the finale of our special series on the Origins of Legends, where we’ve featured the original sketches of some of the best known (and unknown) brands in the world. It’s been quite a journey of artistic and intellectual enlightenment and as it draws to an end we are proud to present to you our final set of sketches from one our personal favorites. MB&F.

In just a few short years MB&F, lead by their truly inspirational founder Maximilian Büsser, have developed a cult following around the world for their unique, bold designs that continually challenge the commonly accepted conventions of watch-making. In this final series of sketches we focus on all three MB&F models presented to date, with a special focus on HM No.1, as after all, that is where it all began.

Be warned though, there are a lot of images, so you may want to take a moment to ensure there will be no distractions for the next few minutes (hours?) before you proceed.

Enjoy!

Those of you with a keen attention to detail may notice that the logo “B&F” appears in some of the original sketches of HM No.1. Although it’s a little known fact, this was actually the originally proposed name – Büsser & Friends. We think Max and his team made the right decision adding in the ‘M’, what do you think?

HM No.1

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

HM No.2

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

HM No.3

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

©MB&F

We sincerely hope you’ve enjoyed our special insight on the Origin of Legends. If you missed the earlier articles please see here for Part 1, Part 2 and http://thewatchlounge.com/the-origin-of-legends-%E2%80%93-the-sketch-book-series-part-3/.

This article is also available in French. Please click here.

Welcome to Part.2 of our special insight on the origins of some the world’s most amazing watches. If you missed Part.1 be sure to check it out here. Today we present to you the original sketches of two exceptional pieces; the DualTow by Christophe Claret and the Jules Audemars by Audemars Piguet. Looking at these images (the first set especially) it really is hard to believe just how superb the final results are!

However, as they say, the creative process isn’t always pretty but it’s the results that count.

Christophe Claret – The DualTow

©Christophe Claret

©Christophe Claret

©Christophe Claret

Audemars Piguet – Jules Audemars

©Audemars Piguet

©Audemars Piguet

©Audemars Piguet

In keeping with The Watch Lounge’s tradition of “Wow Watch Wednesday” the sketches to be published tomorrow in Part.3 of this multi-part series will be something a little out of the ordinary which we think you’re going to enjoy!

This article is also available in French. Please click here.

If you’re anything like us than at on at least one occasion you’ve looked at the exceptional timepiece on your wrist and wondered where it all began. We think you’ll agree that watch-making is as much about practical application as it is about aesthetical beauty, with the best examples achieving a stunning blend of both. And so it is then that the design of a fine timepiece is almost, if not as important as the tiny engine that beats within it.

As we sometimes find ourselves fortunate enough to share the precious time of the world’s great watchmakers through the year, we had the tremendous opportunity on several occasions to see some of the very first sketches of their creations.

Some confessed they are very bad draftsmen while others told us that they were always innately skilled in the design of beautiful watches. Some never draw without proper pens and a clear space, while some express their creative mind on the corner of tablecloths, or even on post-its, with the very first pen they find sketching as fast as they can, before The Big Idea flies away (Editor’s note: For anyone who has been fortunate enough to dine with the exceptionally talented Roland Iten you will know all to well that he falls into the latter category, drawing the most amazing sketches all over any surface, including the table!)

Still, we recognize that there is only so much that can be said with words and so we are not going to write long paragraphs about all these beautiful sketches which, in the end, speak for themselves.

We won’t tell you that Ludovic Ballouard always has a notebook by his side, where he scribbles down ideas that only he can decipher; or that Jean-Claude Biver, as he draws, already has a rough idea of what the final product will look like; that Christophe Claret elucidated in just a few minutes the core essence of the amazing Dual Tow; that Jaeger Le Coultre draws sketches that are so perfect that they almost compete with automated software design.

Instead, we will just let you enjoy these beautiful pieces over the coming week. Make sure you check each day to discover where it all began and to learn just a little more about the timepieces you know and love (and maybe even some you’re meeting for the first time!)

Montblanc Metamorphosis

©Montblanc

©Montblanc

©Montblanc

©Montblanc

©Montblanc

Ludovic Ballouard – Upside Down Watch

©Ludovic Ballouard

©Ludovic Ballouard

©Ludovic Ballouard

©Ludovic Ballouard

©Wai Shan Lam

©Wai Shan Lam

Linde Werdelin – The One

©Linde Werdelin

©Linde Werdelin

Be sure to check back tomorrow as we bring you Part.2 of the Sketch Book Series!

Finland has long been known for its contributions to industrial design and handicrafts, and indeed their architecture is famous around the world (in the right circles anyway), but watch-making? Not quite. In fact, historically speaking the only notable time-telling devices Finland has been responsible for creating have come attached to Nokia cell-phones. That was until Stepan Sarpaneva returned to his country of birth after spending several years studying and working in Switzerland for companies like Piaget, Parmigiani, Vianney Halter and Christophe Claret.

With his latest creation, the Sarpaneva Korona K0, Stepan shows us once again that there is more than one country in the EU capable of producing exceptional, high quality and above all, original timepieces.

A Different Perspective
One of the great things about Stepan is that he is not Swiss and so his reference points and design influences are completely different. Don’t get us wrong, we are absolutely enamoured with Swiss made watches and Swiss watch-makers (heck, we’ve pretty much built a website dedicated to spreading their message)  but the simple fact is that this means that his bold creations are often unlike any of the other pieces you regularly see gracing these very pages. This does not necessarily mean they are better or worse, just simply that they are different.

The Korona K0 is no exception. Even at first glance it appears at once familiar and yet simulataneously so unlike anything you’ve seen before. The design is daring and bold but at the same time evenly tempered, in typical Finnish fashion. Still, understated or not, the exceptional quality and craftsmanship Sarpaneva is so well known for is obvious in every aspect of this new timepiece.

© Guy Lucas De Peslouan

The trade-mark spider-web like black diamond coated stainless steel dial features Superluminova indexes and the 46mm case is crafted from Grade 2 Titanium and rated to 200m water resistance with a subdued matte finish that only serves to further enhance the subtle use of color on the inner-rotating bezel.

Even just the shape of the case itself is different enough to draw your attention without being offensive and gives off a decidedly rugged, sporty vibe complemented by the rubber strap. Yet, at the same time you get the distinct impression that it would look just as at home in the board room as it would on the sports field.

What really makes this piece special though is the concept of integration. You see, Stepan has been clever enough to modify the mainplate in the Soprod A10 calibre automatic movement to incorporate the function of rotating the internal bezel. Whereas as most watches with internal rotating bezels require two crowns (one to set the time and the other to rotate the bezel) the stainless steel, diamond coated Imperial Blue timer ring on this piece is manually adjustable by moving the bajonette screw-down crown to the first position.

Very practical but also very cool.

No word on pricing as yet with availability scheduled to be sometime in 2011.

© Guy Lucas De Peslouan

The Final Word
Sometimes different can be very bad, and sometimes it can be very good. To date Stepan Sarpaneva’s unique creations have always belonged to the second category and judging by the new Korona K0 he intends to continue this trend. We can’t help but be impressed by his bold design choices and clever integration of functionality, producing timepieces that are both highly attractive and at the same time extremely practical.

Then again, he is from Finland.

To find out more visit the official website – www.sarpanevawatches.com

Yesterday we published Part.1 of an exclusive interview with Mr Christophe Claret, Founder and Owner of Christophe Claret SA, creators of the some of the world’s most complicated timepieces. In Part.1 Claret talked quite openly about his company and how they are fairing through the financial crisis, as well as his vision for the future of his company.

Today, in Part.2 we shift the focus to the DualTow, a superb timepiece created by Claret and released under the company’s brand name in 2009 to celebrate their 20th anniversary.

BaselWorld 2010 saw the return of the DualTow, in the form of an all black, highly attractive version aptly named the Night Eagle. Scheduled to be produced in a limited production of just 68 pieces, the sophisticated design allows for maximum viewing pleasure of the highly complicated movement housed within.

And believe us, you are going to want to see as much as possible!

As one would expect from such an accomplished brand the DualTow features several complications, including one patented innovation. Time is displayed on two rubber belts and the complex movement features a single-pusher planetary-gear chronograph with 12-hour, 60-minute and 60-second chronograph counters complete with striking mechanism that causes a gong to chime each time you press the chronograph pusher. As is standard on most high-end timepieces the DualTow also features a stunning flying tourbillon.

Priced at over half a million dollars, the DualTow truly showcased to the world what Claret is capable of and allowed him to well and truly step into the limelight. Fortunately, he was also willing to share some thoughts on this exceptional piece with us

Read on to find out what he had to say.

The all-black Claret DualTow Night Eagle

TWL: Let’s talk about the Dual Tow. How long did it take to make, from the very first sketch to the first unit?

CC: I can’t tell you that, it’s confidential, but I can tell you that we worked very hard and fast, way faster than the usual 3 to 4 years of development required for a new model, which is a standard in the industry…

TWL: Was there anything you learnt from the work you deliver every day for your clients that you incorporated into the Dual Tow?

CC: No, in fact, nothing we did not really know already… Sometimes our clients have specific requests that might not be, in my opinion, a good idea. On some occasions, I let them know my feeling, even if I’m not supposed to! And I must admit that most of the time, considering the final result, they should have listened to me!

TWL: What challenges did you face in perfecting the use of the belts to display the time?

CC: They are in rubber, on which we all have a good knowledge. The challenge was to guarantee that it would last decades. We tested if for a simulated 60 year period, without any problem.

TWL: What were the greatest technical challenges you faced in making this movement a reality?

CC: Clearly the differential chronograph – 12-hour, 60-minute and 60-second chronograph counters with operating mode indicators of the chronograph.

TWL: Does the final design resemble what you first imagined in your mind or has it changed dramatically from concept to reality?

CC: Yes, completely. We have issued a book on the genesis of the Dual Tow. If you look at the first sketches you will see that they are very similar to the final piece.

Original copy of one the very first sketches of the DualTow – Amazing!

TWL: What is next for Claret?

CC: First, our objective is to sell all the Dual Tow.

TWL: How many have you sold so far amongst the 68 units scheduled?

CC: 17. We plan to produce 22 units per year, which implies a complete production process for this model of around 3 years.

Then our second objective is to produce one novelty per year. Not sure if we’ll begin right from 2011, but we should be able to stick to the plan once the crisis is behind us.

On a day to day basis, I am trying to run the business whilst keeping all my staff of experts. I decided to introduce a reduced working week at the beginning of May so now my staff do not come into work on Fridays. Orders decreased this year, so I had to reduce our production pace and draw cash from our reserves, but so far, we’re safe! I’m reasonably confident we will achieve our goals.

TWL : Joyeux anniversaire, M. Claret !

CC : Merci ! 20 ans d’existence, que nous avons fêté avec la Dual Tow. Mais nous n’en sommes pas arrivés ici en un seul jour. Après les 10 premières années où nous étions une petite entreprise, nous avons passé les cinq années suivantes, de 2000 à 2005, à construire la marque et a constituer nos réserves financières. Ensuite, de 2005 jusqu’à présent, ce fut l’ère du développement, avec notamment de gros investissements dans notre outil de production. Nous étions 35 en 2005. Nous sommes à présent 105.

TWL :Comment se porte la manufacture, aujourd’hui ?

CC : Bien ! Nous avons 18 clients permanents pour lesquels nous produisons des mouvements tout au long de l’année. Nous en avons perdu quelques un durant la crise, mais je suis assez confiant sur le fait que de nouveaux clients se présenteront assez rapidement.

Pour nos clients actuels, nous tavaillons simultanément sur 40 mouvements différents. Dans le même temps, nous créons 5 nouveaux mouvements par an – notre record fut une fois de créer 8 nouveaux mouvements dans la même année ! Actuellement notre production est de 400 unités par an, pour un chiffre d’affaires de l’ordre de 20 millions CHF en 2009.

TWL :Combien de mouvements ont vu le jour chez vous jusqu’à présent ?

CC : Environ 64.

TWL : Comment sont-ils nés ?

CC : Nous avons un département Design / R&D qui comporte une dizaine de personnes (lorsque la moyenne du secteur pour une entreprise de cette taille est de 3 à 4 personnes, NDLR). Je suis d’abord horloger avant d’être manager, je suis donc très impliqué dans tout le processus de création.

Jusqu’en 2009, nous produisions des mouvements sur commande de nos clients. Mais depuis cette année, nous créons nos propres mouvements, sans commande particulière. Nous les présentons ensuite à nos clients, qui les découvrent alors une fois au stade de la finition. Nous avons actuellement 5 mouvements en cours d’élaboration, 2 à 3 seront présentés à nos clients, le reste réservé à notre propre production.

Jean Dunand Shabaka by Christophe Claret © Christope Claret SA

TWL : C’est un pari sur l’avenir. Avez-vous la garantie que vos clients achèteront ces nouveaux mouvements sans en avoir vu les plans auparavant ?

CC : Non, aucune garantie. Mais cela fait plus de 20 ans que je fais ce métier, et je travaille simultanément pour plus de 18 clients de la marque Christophe Claret ; j’ai donc une idée assez précise de la direction dans laquelle évolue le marché…!

TWL : A propos du marché, comment analysez-vous la crise, ou la sortie de crise ?

CC : Nous n’en sommes pas encore sortis, mais nous sommes sur la bonne voie. Pour la traverser, certaines entreprises se sont repliées sur leurs modèles phares. D’autres ont réduit leur production. En ce qui me concerne, j’ai mis l’accent sur l’outil de production. Ce sera un élément déterminant lorsque nous serons sortis de crise. Par un jeu d’ajustement du marché, des fournisseurs vont probablement disparaître, et lorsqu’il va falloir de nouveau fournir des mouvements aux clients, seules les entreprises capables de répondre très rapidement pourront tirer leur épingle du jeu – en somme, celles qui ont déjà l’outil de production intégré chez elles.

De surcroît, disposer de notre propre appareil de production nous garantit notre indépendance.

TWL : Vous êtes très impliqué dans la gestion de l’appareil de production.

CC : Totalement. C’est déterminant pour l’entreprise. Nous avons passé des mois, des années à mettre au point nos propres machines, notamment pour la découpe de matériaux comme l’or ou le titane. C’est un long travail de co-développement avec des entreprises comme BC Technologies ou Biwi.

© Christope Claret SA

TWL : Au final, les machines sont donc brevetées Christophe Claret ?

CC : Non, ou seulement sur les quelques innovations clés développées spécifiquement pour nos propres besoins. Mais ce n’est pas dans l’intérêt du marché de breveter l’innovation.

TWL : Mais avec cette ouverture à vos concurrents, vous leur permettez d’acquérir les machines qui les placeront au même niveau d’exécution que vous, non ?

CC : Vous savez, quand nos concurrents les achètent, c’est déjà une bonne chose pour l’entreprise qui les fabrique, et donc pour le marché en général. C’est notre manière de voir les choses.

De plus, vous savez, quand ils achètent ces machines que nous avons co-développées, cela signifie qu’elles sont déjà en production chez nous depuis des mois ou des années ! Je sais que des entreprises comme Rolex, Patek Philippe, ou Greubel Forsey en ont acheté. Rolex en a acquis 30, Greubel Forsey, une. C’est une chose d’acquérir du matériel de si haute précision, c’en est une autre que de savoir le faire fonctionner !

TWL : Votre objectif est-il de parvenir à 100% de maitrise d’ouvrage dans la réalisation du produit ?

CC : Non, 80-85% est un ratio satisfaisant. Il faut laisser les fournisseurs stratégiques vivre. C’est important pour le marché qu’ils perdurent. Ce n’est pas dans notre propre intérêt d’être totalement intégrés. C’est une question d’éthique que de continuer à commander sur le long terme à des fournisseurs fidèles et compétents.

© Christope Claret SA

TWL : Votre entreprise croît très rapidement. Certains observateurs estiment que les universités peuvent former environ 50 horlogers de haut vol par an, alors que le marché en requiert environ 10 fois plus. Comment résolvez-vous cette équation ?

CC : Nous avons établis des passerelles avec les universités du monde entier. Nous sommes très actifs sur ce sujet. Nous envoyons nos propres experts à travers le monde, pour nous présenter, pour recruter des stagiaires. Parfois, ils reviennent même avec un ou deux employés en plus !

TWL : L’indépendance est primordiale, pour vous ?

CC : Oui. Nous réalisons 80% de notre production chez nous. Je suis le seul actionnaire de Christophe Claret SA. Je ne me repose sur aucune banque, je n’ai le soutien d’aucun fonds. Je gère l’entreprise sur ses fonds propres uniquement. L’entreprise traverse la crise avec ses propres réserves.

TWL : Qui sont de quel ordre…?

CC : Nous avons environ deux ans d’autonomie devant nous. Mais j’espère que nous n’aurons pas à les utiliser !

TWL : Quelle est votre analyse à ce sujet ?

CC : J’ai beaucoup appris de la crise de 1998. En ce qui concerne la crise actuelle, j’entrevois une embellie d’ici deux ans. A l’horizon 2015, nous devrions avoir retrouvé le niveau du marché de 2006-2007.

TWL : Ne pensez-vous pas que l’émergence de l’Asie puisse bousculer ces prévisions ?

CC : Il y a deux Asie pour nous. La première est l’Asie cliente. Les millionnaires chinois sont de plus en plus nombreux, c’est un fait – et même si pour nous, petite entreprise, c’est un marché difficile à pénétrer.

La seconde, c’est l’Asie concurrente. Oui, la Chine a présenté récemment ses premiers tourbillons, mais je ne suis pas vraiment inquiet (sourire entendu…). Le tourbillon est leur première complication, et la plus haut-de-gamme. Chez Christophe Claret, c’est la base commune de tous nos modèles…

Indépendamment de cela, n’oublions pas que les Etats-Unis, une fois sortis de la crise, seront de retour sur le marché du luxe, avec le potentiel que cela peut représenter. Et à la fois Christophe Claret SA et la Dual Tow sont déjà présents sur place.

Ever wondered how some of your favorite, high-end boutiques select which brands they will stock in their exclusive stores? We certainly did and so to find out we sought the insight of one of the most well-known characters in the industry, Laurent Picciotto, Founder and Proprietor of the iconic Parisian boutique, Chronopassion.

Laurent was kind enough to explain to us in his own words the personal process he goes through every time he selects a new brand.

Please note this article is also available in French. Please click here.

Laurent Picciotto – Choosing New Brands For Chronopassion
Above all it’s a question of conviction. You can only really know whether a choice is good or bad either too early, or too late. As far as I’m concerned, my choices are made based upon a mix of the emotions elicited by the watches, and the intimate knowledge I have of our customers, who already have well established tastes.

If we are talking about an institutional (mainstream) brand, then it’s always possible to get information on the circuit of resellers. Nonetheless, this information can sometimes be misleading as a particular watch that has sold very well one place may never achieve any success at Chronopassion, especially because we offer such a highly selective, specialist range. For example, we have twice bowed to the insistent requests from Cartier to enter our selection. And twice, with 15 years in between, we had to stop because our clients were not interested in this brand, even though it is clear that Cartier is well sold all over the world and remains a brand with no equivalent.

It’s all about what I call the client formula. For example, we record incredible performances on some niche brands, such as Urwerk, whereas at the same time, our colleagues, even if they are also highly specialized, are unable to achieve the same results. It’s a complex alchemy.

Urwerk CC1

One thing is clear though; there is no miracle recipe in the art of selecting brands.

Moreover, what is right today may become wrong tomorrow, and sometimes within an incredibly short period of time. That’s the reason why, sometimes, we have had to drop some brands which have performed very well in the past but for whatever reason have now fallen out of favor with our clients.

For me, niche brand or not, I think the choice has to be driven emotionally by the design, the quality, and what really makes the watch different. In a certain way, these pieces have to evoke astonishment from both the amateur and the connoisseur alike, resonating on multiple levels of sophistication and understanding.

The people behind the brand also play a major role. It’s always better if there is empathy, if the brand’s vision is clear and if its organization is efficient. But once again, it’s a long-term process, sometimes we have good surprises…and sometimes we have bad.

For example, take the three latest choices I have made.

Glashütte Original Senator Diary

Glashütte Original
I discovered this brand, and worked on building a steel collection in order to create a reasonable range of technical pieces for amateurs at an affordable price. The constant will of technical innovation is particularly noticeable on the “Diary” watch, which allows the wearer to schedule an alarm up to 30 days in advance; similarly, the seconds reset which can be found on some of their models utilizes a step-by-step minutes positioning movement, in order to have the big seconds indicator perfectly align with the minutes index at the top.

The collections are deeply consistent, sober but efficient, and bring something really new to what we had already seen before.

Zenith El Primero Foudroyante 1/10th Chronograph

Zenith
After a great deal of work to reducing a range of over 600 references, M. Dufour has done a great job of redesigning and innovating, in order to take the brand where it was expected to be. The tenth of a second chronograph complication is testament to this as are the more simple and classic pieces which look like they come straight from Sinatra’s Las Vegas, exhibiting a very efficient and attractive neo-vintage look.

Ulysse Nardin Moonstruck

Ulysse Nardin
It’s not a brand, it’s a legend. Previously we worked with them for 10 years, until 2000 when we stopped for business reasons. Nonetheless, I kept on visiting the team booth in Basel every year, always smart in their way of designing very stylish and technical pieces, such as the perpetual calendar “El Toro”, or the “Moonstruck”, which has no equivalent on the market and now…we work with them again!

The Final Word
We’ll have to talk again in the future to really know if these choices have been good or not. I assume they’re all good in one way or another, in so far as all these pieces are really wonderful watches. Nevertheless, to make this concrete they must translate into successful sales because there are no ingenious or exceptional watches that remain unsold – if there are, than there is a real problem! But that’s the topic of another discussion…

Laurent Picciotto is the Founder and Proprietor of the Chronopassion Boutique in Paris. Visit their official website for more information – www.chronopassion.fr

Last month we told you about a brand new timepiece created by luxury watch-maker Richard Mille for superstar tennis player Rafael Nadal. What makes this piece truly special (besides the $500k+ price tag) is that Nadal will actually wear it for every single match he plays, not just at charity events or for press conferences.

Official Debut
Earlier this week the all new RM 027 Tourbillon made it’s official debut on court at the 2010 Roland Gaross Tournament and judging by the look on Rafa’s face he could not be happier with his new watch even going as far as to say:

“It is an honor for me that someone like Richard has chosen me as one of his ambassadors. I know that he has worked very hard to be able to create this very special watch. I am honored and I am sure it will be a special and successful partnership.”

All indications so far suggest that he’s right, with the announcement of this incredible new partnership creating a huge buzz all over the internet. We were even asked for our thoughts by the New York Times!

Whilst Rafa may be very humble about being selected as an ambassador, this would seem to be a very intelligent move by Richard Mille. The luxury watch industry is highly competitive and so it is a constant battle to attract the attention (and the bank accounts) of your target market, regardless of what you have created in the past.

This piece may not be for everybody but it does showcase the extraordinary talents of Mr. Mille and in doing so gives a stunning endorsement to the other pieces in his collection. In addition, this bold move has created a huge buzz both in the industry itself as well as among the general population, generating invaluable publicity for the brand.

Although some of this can be attributed to the hefty price tag of $525,000 attached to the highly limited edition of just 50 pieces, the real hype relates to the fact that Rafa is actually willing to wear the watch during games. As any tennis enthusiast will tell you any perceptible shift in weight can really throw off a player’s whole technique.

To combat this Mille has created what is quite possibly the most expensive watch ever made without the use of traditional precious metals like gold or platinum. The RM 027 RN is one of the lightest tourbillion watches ever designed and weighs in at a meager 20g (including the strap). To make this possible the movement base-plate is crafted from titanium and LITAL alloy and the case is a special composite, containing large amounts of carbon.

The Final Word
Regardless of your personal opinions on the design or materials used, it has to be acknowledged that the fact that Mille was able to create such a delicate mechanism that is robust enough to be worn on the wrist of one the most active athletes in the world (and function reliably!) is truly remarkable.

Will it sell more watches though? Only time will tell.



Hi, my name is Michael Wyden, I’m 22 years old and I live in the heartland of watch-making, which is Switzerland of course! I have always had a strong interest in mechanical things and so it is no surprise that I LOVE mechanical timepieces!

The most recent addition to my modest collection (so far!) is my Breitling Navitimer World. I have always liked big aviator watches and Breitling had exactly the right size for me at 46mm. Although it’s a bit too big for daily wear I love bringing it out for special occasions as people always compliment it and ask questions.

Sometimes I also bring out my Omega Pocket watch from 1967. It was Grandpa’s favorite watch, and now I wear and appreciate it with pride.

For daily wear though I can’t go past my Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Chronometer. I love wearing it! She’s not too small and not too big, and is very light (for stainless steel) and comfortable.

In short: she’s the perfect everyday watch!

Would you like to see your favorite piece (or collection) featured on The Watch Lounge? Will then send us an email now!