Posts Tagged ‘watches’
Van Cleef & Arpels et la montre pour femme : l’histoire d’amour continue
Quatre ans après la création des Complications Poétiques, Van Cleef&Arpels a annoncé, lors d’une conférence de presse dans son fief de la Place Vendôme, trois nouvelles évolutions de cette gamme majeure pour le joailler.
L’esprit reste inchangé : proposer aux femmes une nouvelle approche du temps, véritablement conçue pour elles, qui ne soit pas une émanation d’une approche masculine. D’ailleurs, Laurent Picciotto, créateur de Chronopassion et ambassadeur de la collection, n’y va pas par quatre chemins : « Trop longtemps, la Suisse a été mysogine et macho ». Au moins, les choses sont dites.
Au départ, il y a la manière de concevoir le produit : on ne part pas de la technique, mais de l’idée créatrice, et l’on voit ensuite si elle est réalisable. « Tout commence donc au bureau de design », souligne Louis de Meckenheim, Directeur Marketing Horlogerie chez Van Cleef&Arpels. « La conception débute avec les designers joaillers, puis on se rapproche de concepteur du mouvement pour savoir ce qui est réalisable, et ce qui risque d’être problématique », souligne-t-il.
La marque propose donc des variations poétiques autour du temps, matérialisées par des montres pour lesquelles la technique pure est reléguée au second plan. L’amour, la féérie, Paris, le ciel étoilé, sont autant de variations des Complications Poétiques qui permettent à chaque femme d’appréhender le temps selon sa propre sensibilité. « D’ailleurs, il serait bien difficile de définir le profil type de nos clientes ; nosplus jeunes ont moins de 30 ans ! » , s’amuse-t-on chez la joailler. De même, « alors que nous pensions offrir aux femmes une expérience d’achat isolée, on s’aperçoit que certaines de nos clientes reviennent année après année pour découvrir quelles nouvelles variations autour du thème du temps nous avons imaginées pour elle ». Aujourd’hui, Van Cleef&Arpels propose une vingtaine de références de ses Complications Poétiques, éditées en moyenne chacune à 100 exemplaires par an.
Toutefois, que l’on ne s’y trompe pas : si la poésie dégagée par la montre reste ce qu’il y a de plus important, la technique n’est pas en reste. Un argument qui ne manquera pas de séduire le public masculin, bien souvent présent aux côtés de leur moitié pour l’achat des modèles les plus aboutis. Ainsi, la plupart des modèles présentés aujourd’hui, sur base ETA notamment, comportent des mouvements à rattrapante. A aiguille rattrapante ? Assurément, non. L’aiguille n’existe pas dans les Complications Poétiques. On parle de baguette magique, de papillons, d’étoiles, d’ailes de fée. Chez Van Cleef&Arpels, on ne regarde pas l’heure, on regarde le temps. Et ça n’a rien à voir.
« Nous avons voulu créer des montres qui accompagnent nos clientes dans l’évolution de leur vision du temps », analyse Louis de Meckenheim, Directeur Marketing Horlogerie. « A 30 ans, on n’a pas le même rapport au temps qu’à 60 ans. Nous avons donc conçu nos modèles de façon à ce qu’ils puissent offrir différents niveau de lecture du temps, pour rester en harmonie permanente avec la vie de nos clientes ». La collection est donc pensée pour accompagner leur propriétaire tout au long de sa vie. Chaque cliente découvrira au fil du temps une foule de détails conçue par Van Cleef&Arpels : du rubis qui ne se dévoile qu’une fois par an un certain jour de mai, en passant par les vibrations des papillons des secondes, ou au fugace baiser des amoureux, chaque montre recèle un nombre infini de détails qui se dévoileront au fil du temps.
En conclusion
Difficile de ne pas adhérer à la présentation faite par Van Cleef&Arpels de ses Complications Poétiques 2010. C’est aujourd’hui une collection mature, d’une exécution remarquable et d’une cohérence sans faille. La marque tire le meilleur parti à la fois de son ADN joailler et horloger. Chaque pièce propose un univers poétique inédit, subtil, d’une élégance rare, et est dotée d’une vraie personnalité propre, tout en s’intégrant avec harmonie dans une collection complète. A se demander pourquoi la montre pour femme n’a pas toujours été pensée comme cela… .
What do you think? Leave a comment. | Filed under Brands In Focus, Exclusives and Previews, New This Week
Weird Watch Wednesday: Chopard L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon
In a highly competitive market, such as the luxury watch industry, participants need to evolve constantly, trying new things and finding new ways to get the upper hand on their competitors. Sometimes these new concepts are beautifully executed and work out well and sometimes they just fail dismally. Fortunately for high-end luxury watchmaker Chopard their latest creation, to be presented at Basel World later this month, sits firmly in the first category.
A Podium Finish
Exquisitely different from anything the brand has attempted before, this new piece only serves to reaffirm Chopard’s impressive capabilities as a watchmaker. True to the brand’s motor racing themed heritage, the shape and design of new Engine One Tourbillon is reticent of an engine block. In fact, almost everything about this new piece has been inspired by motor racing in some way or another.
The manually wound L.U.C 1TRM tourbillon calibre is COSC-certified and has been made completely in-house by Chopard and specially shaped to fit within the unique case. It is equipped with a 60-hour power reserve and is mounted within the case on shock-absorbing blocks much like a race car engine. Three lever-arms inserted into the middle of the case hold it in place and ensure absolute stability.
As the name suggests the piece features a tourbillon complication, which is exposed on the stunningly simplistic dial, sitting just below the power reserve indicator. The tourbillon cage completes one revolution every 60 seconds and the bridge has been beautifully skeletonized, maximizing the visual appeal of this highly desirable novelty.
Subtle Yet Distinctive
The distinctive case is crafted from titanium and measures 35.4mm in width by 44.4mm in length. Showcasing a striking combination of polished and brushed surfaces, the sides of the piece reveal contrasting brushed flanks and strongly curved lugs, creating a case that is both aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortably fitting. Adding to that comfort is a hand-sewn black alligator strap with a titanium buckle, a welcome change from the rubber straps many luxury brands have been favoring on their high-end sports pieces.
A quick look at the dial and you could be forgiven for thinking you had just opened the bonnet of an expensive sports car. The satin central section and vertically striated outer sections work together to create the impression of engine rocker covers and provide a very unique look without cluttering or over-complicating the dial. The power reserve indicator sits on a slightly elevated area at 12 o’clock, looking every bit the gas-gauge it has been designed to emulate.
As a an added touch the hour markers and indices are located directly on the shaped sapphire crystal, as opposed to the dial which is the more common practice, and this in turn creates an appealing three-dimensional effect while at the same improving the overall legibility of the exceptionally refined dial.
As the brand is celebrating its 150th birthday this year, the L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon will be offered in a limited production of just 150 pieces and the price is expected to be in excess of $100,000.
The Final Word
There are many things to love about this new piece from Chopard. Its original design, the fact the movement is made completely in-house, the adherence to the brand’s racing heritage, the list goes on. But what truly impresses us, however, is the fact that the brand has been willing to try something bold and different and has really pulled it off.
This watch doesn’t need to use cheap tricks and bright colors to stand out, it is its simplicity that makes it truly distinctive.
Hublot and Depeche Mode Raise Over $600,000 For Teenage Cancer Trust!
Mr Biver with the members of Depeche Mode – © Hublot
It’s always great to see big companies giving back and no one does it quite like luxury watch manufacturer Hublot. Lead by their charismatic CEO, Jean Claude-Biver, an industry legend in his own right well known for his generosity, the brand teamed up with rock ‘n’ roll superstars Depeche Mode to raise money for teenagers with cancer. And raise money they did, combining their efforts to generate over a staggering US$620,000! What’s even more amazing is that they were able to raise this much money in the space of just a few short months!
Fighting For Good
Back in December 2009 Hublot and Depeche Mode pledged their support to the Teenage Cancer Trust which provides support services to teenagers with cancer in the areas of special care, research, family support and specialized diagnoses. A very worthy cause we are sure you will agree!
In order to maximize the amounts of funds raised, the two partners devised and executed a series of events which would prove to be hugely successful.
First, Hublot announced the creation of twelve exclusive boxes each containing twelve exclusive Big Bangs, designed in conjunction with Depeche Mode, with each one displaying one of the group’s iconic album covers on the dial. As an added touch each box also included vinyl and digital versions of the album, a framed gold CD and signed photos. Amid much fanfare these unique pieces were then sold at a special auction that ran from the 6th to the 24th of February.
The special edition Depeche Mode Big Bangs – © Hublot
It didn’t stop there, however. A charity concert was hosted by the group on the 17th of February at the Royal Albert Hall in London. Fans from all around the globe flocked in to show their support, selling out the concert in just 40 minutes! Following the concert was a VIP reception hosted by Hublot where attendees could purchase raffle tickets for their chance to win a Big Bang Zirconium. Much like the concert tickets, these sold out in minutes.
All in all, this resulted in the two partners raising in excess of $US620,000 for the Teenage Cancer Trust!
Hublot CEO, Jean-Claude Biver, was ecstatic with the outcome saying;
“This joint project has proven to be a tremendous success! The result is amazing and we are so proud to have been part of this historical charity event. Depeche Mode have committed themselves with such enthusiasm to this project! It has been a humbling experience to join them on this journey. They are fans of Hublot and I am proud to associate our brand with their music and for a cause as important as the Teenage Cancer Trust…when you are passionate and successful in what you do, you should share and give to those less fortunate! This is exactly what Depeche Mode has done and I am proud that Hublot could help them achieve this. ”
Jean-Claude Biver signing the cheque for over $US620,000 – © Hublot
The Final Word
What more can be said, this is simply an amazing outcome! Two superstars have come together to combine their unique talents and leverage their global popularity to help raise not only funds but also awareness of those less fortunate or who are dealing with extremely difficult conditions. This is an occasion to be applauded resoundingly and at the same time held up as an example to others.
Hopefully the incredible success Hublot and Depeche Mode have achieved will inspire other luxury manufacturers around the world to take up the fight also, and pool their considerable resources towards making a positive difference in the world.
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