The Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture
When considering the relationship between luxury and value, points of view tend to disagree. This is because these two concepts are somewhat contradictory. In light of Tom Mulraney’s article about the real value of tourbillon watches, I find it suiting to take a closer look at a watch that claims to offer both luxury and value. It will also be very interesting to hear the insightful opinion of The Watch Lounge readers in regards to this watch, which is the Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture.
Alpina is very dedicated to providing the best possible value for the high quality and appeal of luxury products. Because of this, I believe that this underestimated, modern company still has a lot of growth ahead of it. Tourbillon timepieces, while very visible in the watch media, are still quite rare in terms of units produced. Most models presented by companies other then the established giants, are often limited to tiny lots.
In the case of the Extreme Tourbillon, for instance, only 18 of each variation will be produced. The precision required to manufacture the numerous components of the tourbillon cage is the source of both the rarity and prestige associated with this complication. A closer look at Alpina’s AL-980 calibre Tourbillon movement will put these components in evidence.
The AL-980 calibre is comprised of 188 parts. Its purpose is to offer accuracy, impressive Swiss manufacturing, and – of course – the complex tourbillon mechanism at a price lower then the competition’s. This proprietary mechanism is an extensively modified version of Alpina’s original manufacture calibre, the AL 950. It retains the AL-950′s automatic winding mechanics and the regulator hour configuration.
One of the main aspects of the new AL-980, is that is equipped with a silicium escapement wheel and lever. The advantages of this material are now well known by many watch enthusiasts. Its light weight creates less friction than traditional substances and allows for a more precise measurement of time. The viscosity of the escapement also allows it to run properly without lubrication, virtually eliminating the need for regular servicing. The tourbillon cage itself is made of 80 parts showing how intricate even a basic version of this complication can be.
The tourbillon is an impressive complication. It is easy to see why watches that are equipped with it, often exhibit it through the dial. This is so on the Extreme Tourbillon Regulator, who’s dial is “skeletonized” to showcase the mesmerizing combination of rotation and oscillation. The dial’s low contrast further highlights the individually numbered “tourb.” The markings on the multilevel dial are black and the applied steel hour markers and hands are darkened with the PVD process. The 48mm case is sporty and modern. It offers a relatively low profile and curved lugs, which are joined to a soft rubber strap for a comfortable fit. The black bezel is made of ceramic while the black case is made of titanium and coated with diamond like carbon (DLC). All Extreme Tourbillon regulators offer a peek at the ingenious movement via see-through, exhibition backs.
The Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator represents a new category of tourbillon watches. These timepieces offer all the quality and precision expected of Swiss manufacturing with a price that reflects their actual value without the Tourbillon Club surcharge. The Extreme Tourbillon offers the simplest and most robust form of the “whirlwind” mechanism and packages it in a modern, sporty case.
Only 18 copies of each of the two versions will be manufactured reflecting the naturally limiting precision and time required to build them. With a price tag that hovers around the $50,000 mark, the AL-980BC5AE9 and AL-980BCT5AE9 Extreme Tourbillon Regulators represent the rare balance between luxury and value.
Have Alpina got it right? Tell us what you think below!
Marco is a specialist of Alpina watches at Matt Baily.
Category: Watch Reviews
About the Author (Author Profile)
Marco runs the website for the Montreal watch boutique / lounge, Matt Baily. He has access to watches and insider information from some of the world’s leading young companies.Subscribe
If you enjoyed this article, subscribe to receive more just like it.
I have to say this is a very well written article but personally I’m not really sold on this piece. I think Alpina make some good quality watches, like their diving series, but this new offering confuses me a little as I don’t really see them as a brand operating in this segment. However, that’s just my opinion and I could be completely off!
A very good read regardless
Seriously? A modern-design regulateur? What next? A turbo sundial?
No sir, I didn’t like it.
Well….interesting….till the 4 last lines !
Yes, it seems quite nice, but why not create a Tourbillon based watch similar to this, in volume numbers that we can all enjoy for a reasonable price? Limited edition copies of 18 only are great for exceptional collectors who can afford the $50,000 price tag, but what about us other mere mortal watch enthusiasts who would like to enjoy this technology? Why does this have to be in an exception, elitist club only? A bit dumb really…
I love the interaction on this site! Awesome.
Tom: Many companies are delving into this segment. It is like it has become a rite of passage of sorts. Hublot, Concord, Bell & Ross are three other brands that come to mind that didn’t have any complicated pieces (I think) before they jumped into tourbillons. I think the sport tourbillon is very established in the market today, and Alpina just happens to offer one that is less expensive then many others. We will just have to wait to see if Alpina took the initiative too soon. According to them, however, their first version of the Tourbillon did very well. This is the watch: http://www.alpina-watches.com/en/watch/AL-980BBT5FBAE6.htm
Rob and Oliver: I’m not a watch maker, but those I talked to all revere the tourbillon mechanism. While there is a lot of hype around it, it actually IS a very complicated mechanism to manufacture. Mass production methods are not applicable. Proof is Chinese tourbillons. If you ever see an inexpensive, Chinese Tourbillon live, then you will know what I mean. The current methods that are capable to manufacture the tourb’s components are still slow and expensive. I have seen how high-quality rings are made and it gave me a new appreciation for the CNC machine. It takes over twelve hours to carve the WAX model of one ring. Imagine carving out dozens of parts, out of various metals and materials, with much higher precision requirements. I’m not sure if it would take twelve hours for each part, but you get the point. With Alpina’s Tourb and others that will certainly be released at Basel by other companies, the “Club Charge” HAS been removed. A tourbillon for less then $90K was unheard of up to a few years ago.
” The viscosity of the escapement also allows it to run properly without lubrication, virtually eliminating the need for regular servicing.”
How much of the escapement is silicium? Is it just the pallet fork and escape wheel or more? Regardless, even though certain parts of the escapement may not need service as frequently, the rest of the watch should still be taken care of. Dirty and dry pivots are not happy pivots, and people may take the above to mean that the watch itself can go longer without servicing which more than likely is not the case.
Tourbillon is the one of the most complicated horology creations . It need high expertise level and mass production is not recommended. It took almost three years of research and development to create the Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture by a historical watch company like Alpina which is involved in all stages of Watch Production, from initial design to final assembly and quality control.
Real watch Collectors always love the art of watch making , not the cost. Tourbillon is not a simple timepiece but an artistic and technological marvel. So it is more precious. I am sure that, Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture will be a valuable addition to a watch collectors reserve.