Wow Watch Wednesday: Chanel and High Watchmaking? Oui
In the business of haute couture, Chanel is an indisputable leader known for trendsetting designs using the finest materials and expert craftsmanship. Credited with introducing the little black dress and tweed skirt to high society, the house of Chanel certainly knows how to put together an outfit for any occasion. However, haute horlogerie demands more than just superb looks and fine materials.
Would dear Coco Chanel, the grande dame of sartorial style, trust the creation of one of her hats or signature scents to a five star chef or Formula 1 driver? Je ne pense pas.
The Expert Touch
I say leave the high watchmaking to the qualified professionals. Otherwise, your timepieces won’t even rank an upturned nose from connoisseurs. Apparently, Chanel took that advice. They partnered with renowned complications master Giulio Papi of Renaud and Papi (which is part of Audemars Piguet), on a movement for its J12 collection in 2008.
The J12 models had already made a splash for their fresh use of high-tech ceramic in the case and bracelet. The upgrade to thoroughbred mechanics with the J12 Calibre 3125, based upon Audemars Piguet’s 3120 movement, allowed aficionados of design and horology to stand shoulder to shoulder in appreciation.
Once again enlisting the talents of Renaud and Papi, Chanel expands the J12 line to include the Rétrograde Mystérieuse, a clever integration of the playful retrograde function that would make Coco herself cock an appreciative eyebrow.
The manual winding calibre RMT-10, developed by Renaud and Papi exclusively for Chanel in celebration of the J12’s 10th anniversary, contains a power reserve of 10 days when fully wound. The Rétrograde Mystérieuse mechanism is a delight to see in action that needs to be seen to be believed!
There’s a wonderful symbolism of playing with time as the retrograde function kicks in when the long minutes hand hits the obstacle of the retractable crown, located at 3 o’clock. While the minutes hand reverses its trajectory to swing counterclockwise round to the 4 o’clock position, an aperture at 6 o’clock marks off the minutes from 11 to 19, at which time the retrograde hand has finished its journey and picks up the minutes again at 20.
I would’ve preferred the timepiece without the tourbillon function, though the choice to place it opposite the retractable crown at 9 o’clock works aesthetically. Sometimes I think that the newer players to haute horlogerie feel they must introduce a tourbillon function to be taken seriously. With practically every company featuring one in their high-end watches, I’m a bit fatigued by the complication.
The Final Word
The design of the Rétrograde Mystérieuse and the execution of the retrograde function is enough to capture my attention. In a certain way, the tourbillon seems unnecessary here, like adding a bow to an already lovely cocktail dress. Nonetheless, I’m willing to forgive in this instance and recommend Chanel release a version without the tourbillon.
Limited to an edition of 10 in both 18k pink and white gold, the Rétrograde Mystérieuse is a blend of advanced technology and Chanel’s trademark elegant sophistication that definitely earns them a seat at the haute horlogerie table.
Category: Wow Watch Wednesday
Odd, but sharp, I like it!
Mmmm…fascinating indeed, even if I’m not a huge fan of the brilliant aspect of the ceramic. I would have preferred something less glossy, maybe in the Hublot way.
Hi Olivier,
You might not like the gloss of the ceramic, but remember, Chanel pioneered the use of this material in watches with the J12. A different case material would’ve disappointed fans and somehow not been true to the model’s identity. And, perhaps the wink of the gloss will garner the attention of new members to the brand — a choice that wily coquette Coco would’ve found quite delightful, I think.
The J12 Retrograde was on of my favourite watches at Baselworld this year. Its the perfect woman’s watch. Being able to turn back the clock every hour!!
A shout out to Carol, who obviously has great taste!
Hi Meehna,
I understand your point, but I don’t think that Coco’s fans are just passive trend followers. I would have suggested something more innovative.
Yes, Chanel pioneered the use of ceramic.
And that’s exactly why I would have gone one step further now. Innovation & tradition is not a just good match. It’s the key for outstanding concepts. See Jean Dunand, and the great review by our friend RJ. I’m not a fan (at all) of JD watches, but I must admit these pieces are mind blowing.
But on the contrary, yes, indeed, my dear, I must say that Jean Dunand doesn’t have to deal with such an impressive heritage as Chanel !
He he, this comments section will be very interesting from now on !
A bientôt
[...] dial. Great technology that makes it possible but just like the Hermes Arceau Temps Suspendu, and Chanel J12 Tourbillon Retrograde Mysterieuse it’s more inpractical than truly adding something to the [...]