Author Archive: Olivier Muller

Olivier Muller is half Swiss, half French, and has been raised in the world of haute horlogerie & luxury watches right from the cradle. He now works in Public Relations in Paris.

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When Art Meets Time – Three People, Three Stories

| December 8, 2011 | Reply

Stéphanie Guglielmetti

They may not know how to measure time, but they are the best at capturing it. A painter, an artist, and a designer: we talk to three up-and-coming talents to explore the relationships between art and time.

“It was not something I had considered at all. One day, I was painting a dashboard that was part of a bigger painting, and I realized I took a particular pleasure in drawing the dial, index and hands. Just to give it a try, afterwards, I painted a Monaco. Since then, I never stopped painting watches”.

Didier Vallé

Didier Vallé’s casual rendition of how he decided to become a watch painter alludes to the fact that it was simply a matter of coincidence, but I would suggest that the inherent similarities between his work and watches ensured that one day the hand of fate would intercede on his behalf; the love of precision, excellence, handcrafting, and major attention to minor details.

At just 26, Quentin Carnaille is already aspiring to follow in the footsteps of some of watch-making’s most visionary pioneers. Not a watch-maker in any sense of the word, Carnaille is a designer who sees opportunities for artistic expression in all aspects of horology. Like the incredible master watchmaker Beat Haldimann, he created a small watch that doesn’t show the time. For those looking for something slightly more practical he has created a series of horoligical cuff-links.

Although young and very much at beginning of his journey, this is one designer who seeks to think about the concepts time and how we measure it at a more intellectual level. He offered an interesting analysis of the life-cycle of time which gives an insight into his thought process: “4500 years ago, man created the sundial, which lasted 3900 years. Then, clepsydras appeared, and lasted 3300 years. Mechanical clocks were created in the XIIth century and lasted 600 ans. Pockets watches, 400 years, wrist watches, 100 years, quartz watches, a few decades, and finally some new technologies last only a few months”. That is why Carnailles has sees it as his job to stop the effects of time on watches – by deconstructing them. After all a deconstructed watch is no longer a timepiece at all and therefore can never age.

Quentin Carnaille

Freezing Time
Artists and watch-makers constantly walk in opposite directions: the former seek to capture the essence of time by freezing it while the latter develop incredible movements to illustrate and measure how time flies. Stéphanie Guglielmetti, artist and designer, goes to the end of both process and then merges them together: she deconstructs watches, takes their parts, and then gives them a second life through artistic mobiles.

“Watches have always been part of my life. I grew up in the Jura mountains, worked for many watch brands, but as a designer, I always felt free to re-interpret them in my own way. I like going against strictness”.

In her creations, all parts come from used movements; “They’ve already had a first life”, explains Guglielmetti. “I exposed them on a white background, as if these old black-painted parts were immersed into a life, as if the shadow of the past melt into the present. At this point, what I do is like calligraphy. I try to get rid of all parasites and intrusive elements that light carries along with itself, to focus only on pure black and white, on past and present”.

With her bright smile, her kindness and her simplicity, it’s hard to resist Stéphanie Guglielmetti’s charm. She almost sounded suprised that 70% of her creations were sold in a few days when she exhibited them in a small gallery in Paris a few months ago. But believe me, it’s only just the beginning. You can check out her latest news at http://www.stephanie-guglielmetti.com

Stéphanie Guglielmetti Mur du Temps

A Tribute to George Daniels: Creator Of The Co-Axial Movement (VIDEO)

| October 25, 2011 | 2 Replies

Georges Daniels – 19 August 1926 – 21 October 2011 - © Omega

Each time an old man dies, it’s a library that burns” – African proverb by Ahmadou Hampathe Ba.

George Daniels built his reputation restoring and repairing the exceptional creations of Abraham Louis Breguet and, like his predecessor had a century before him, made it his life’s work to constantly search for ways to improve watchmaking. During his legendary career spanning 42 years he created 37 different watches completely by himself, excluding prototypes, with each designed as a way to test new ideas, new processes. Whilst most manufacturers focus on registering new patents and developing new materials, Daniels was more concerned with generating new ideas and then finding ways to implement them.

His most notable invention, the now well-known co-axial escapement, was simply too ahead of its time for the watchmaking industry when he first created it back in the 1970s. It’s not common knowledge but Daniels actually struck out with Rolex and Jaeger-LeCoultre first before Omega agreed to buy the new technology. It’s hard not to imagine that the fate of either of those manufactures could have been changed significantly if they had given Daniel’s escapement the credit it deserved. (Editor’s Note: Although fortunately both brands are still doing exceptionally well.)

Although Daniels left this world a highly respected, watch-making legend, his beginnings were incredibly humble.

“We were really scruffy gutter kids.”

These words from Daniels are indicative of the impoverished household in which he grew up, sharing what little possessions he had with his 8 brothers and sisters as the world struggled through the Great Depression. His first experience with watches came at the tender age of six when he discovered a watch in the house. According to Daniels he didn’t know who it belonged to, but as far as he was concerned it was fair game to open it up with a bread knife and examine its contents. Although it wasn’t functioning the movement he discovered inside still had all the potential qualities of the complexity of a watch, which he found very intriguing.

As time went on and Daniels grew older, the opportunities to work increased and as a consequence so did his level of remuneration. He had his own money now, not a lot mind you but maybe just enough to buy his first few broken watches to repair, but this was 1944 and fate had other plans for Daniels. Like every other healthy young man his age at the time, he was conscripted into the British Army.

“For the first time in my life I had a bed to myself”, said Daniels.

Unperturbed by this interruption however Daniels pursued his passion for watch-making and watch repairs, using his time as an enlisted man to start honing his skills:

After finishing his service in the armed forces Daniels made his way back into mainstream society, eager to continue the development of his horological endeavors. Of course at this stage he only saw himself as a watch repairer, the idea of becoming a world famous watch-maker too outrageous to even warrant a second thought. As time went on and he honed his skills working on a variety of different timepieces it became clear that he was in possession of an extraordinary talent, one that would enable him to transcend the world of watch repair.

Breguet, the most celebrated watchmaker…

but not the greatest“. That’s what history tends to forget explains Daniels, “Everything necessary for the creation of a precision watch had been done. I had to surpass him ».

In 1968 the quartz movement (excuse the pun) was already well under way and makers of mechanical watches the world over were holding their heads in despair. However Daniels found inspiration in this new innovation, it gave him another reason to make his own watch: “My plan was to build a watch the could outwit the quartz watch. And when I was satisfied (with the watch I made), there was always another nutcase like me waiting to buy it “.

One of these so-called ‘nutcases’ was his friend Sam Clutton. He bought the first Daniels watch for 1200 £ in 1969. In the 90’s, the last one Daniels made sold for 200’000 £.

Georges Daniels – © Clockmakers

It’s all about perfection

Of course, Daniels is known above all for his ability to make a watch from scratch – literally – including the tools themselves. Perfection was the goal he constantly aspired too, and in spite of his technical brilliance he never overlooked the importance of aesthetics in watchmaking: ”The beauty of a watch is geometric and aesthetic and about timekeeping “, he said. Of course CNC had no place in his creations, as he put it he liked to use “primitive tools. There was no point in changing them. I used lathed, files, pliers, wirecutters, screwdrivers, hammers, saws. Everything by hand. AutoCAD does not understand elegance “.

“I outdid Breguet”

When Omega bought his co-axial escapement, Daniels showed the world that his invention was as simple as it was necessary: “My idea was that the co-axial had to keep better time than any other mechanical escapement or quartz watch, and it does. The co-axial utilizes the last of the remaining unused principles in the impulsion of the escapement. Watchmakers may have to work five hundred years to find a better escapement“.

There is one thing for sure, Mr Daniels: even in 500 years, we will remember your work, your passion, your devotion and your invaluable contribution to the watch world.

Thank you Sir.

Original story by Olivier Müller – Quotes from the excellent book of Michael Clerizo, “Masters of contemporary watchmaking” that you can order here.

Only Watch 2011 – Strange Days In Monaco

| October 4, 2011 | 4 Replies

Patek Philippe Only Watch

Editor’s Note: One thing we really pride ourselves here on TWL is independence. We have worked hard to assemble a team of well-informed contributors from all around the globe and from all different backgrounds and sometimes this means that we don’t always agree on certain points. To ensure that our coveted independence is preserved however I will always publish the thoughts and opinions of my learned colleagues, even if they are contradictory to my own, to ensure that our readers can be as well-informed as possible to make their own decisions.

This is one such occasion and I really encourage anyone reading the following article to leave their thoughts about its contents in the comments section below. 

It would seem that the sun-beams of market recovery have not reached all shores just yet. On September 23rd, the 4th edition of the biennial charity auction ONLY WATCH closed with a result of EUR 4,563,000. This may sound like an outstanding result on the face of things, but a closer look at the details of the auction definitely shows that the market has not quite returned to the heady excess of pre-GFC times, at least not this year anyway.

An interesting exercise is to compare the final price of each watch with its initial estimate, known well before the commencement of the auction. Of course these estimates are simply just that; estimates and no one can truly say for certain what will happen on auction day. However, undoubtedly some of those “in the know” would have been predicting that more than a few of these exquisite pieces would far exceed their initial appraisals.

In the end though, the results were in my opinion somewhat disappointing. Admittedly it is hard to draw any solid market conclusions as the final outcome is dependent on a number of factors, including the line-up of watches and the performance of the auctioneers on the night. However, the figures speak for themselves. More than 60% of the watches were sold under their estimate. In the mean, all watches sold at 2.9% under and if we exclude the rather large outlier of the Patek Philippe ref. 3939 (pictured above), whose final price was a staggering +155% above its estimate, that number jumps up to 6.8 % under estimate.

Van Cleef & Arpels Only Watch 2011
The stunning Van Cleef & Arpel “From the Earth to the Moon” Piece Unique sold for EUR 215,000!

The second observation that can be made is that apart from the Patek Philippe, many of the other well-known brands came in well below their initial estimates: Audemars Piguet (-5%), MB&F (-15%), Zenith (-27%), Harry Winston (-29%), De Bethune (-36%).

On the contrary, some of the brands which are seldom seen in auctions performed well and truly above and beyond their expected potential: Bernhard Lederer (+20%), Frédérique Constant (+46%), Van Cleef & Arpels (+72%).

One thing is for sure though; there were definitely some interesting deals to be had by savvy collectors in Monaco this year.

For the full price list please click here.

The Entries And How They Performed Relative To Their Estimates:

Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars : – 5%

Bell & Ross BR01 Casino : – 40%

Blancpain Villeret : – 24 %

Bernhard Lederer Gagarin Tourbillon : + 20%

Bovet Amadeo Dragon & Phoenix : – 65 %

Breguet Grande Comlication : + 20 %

Celcius X VI II : + 50%

Chanel J12 Marine : + 20%

Chaumet Dandy Arty : – 64 %

Chopard L.U.C. Engine One : – 42 %

Corum Golden Bridge : – 20%.

Cyrus Klepcys : – 22,5%

De Bethune DB25 08 01 1297 : – 36%

de La Cour Mourinho City Ego : – 62%

DeWitt Concept watch No. 3 XWatch : – 3%

Franck Muller Crazy Hours : +47%

Frederique Constant Family Set of Four : + 46%

Girard-Perregaux “WW.TC” Titanium Oxide : – 17%

Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer : – 7,5%

Harry Winston Midnight GMT Tourbillon : – 29%

Hermes Arceau Le Temps Suspendu : – 23%

Hublot Oceanographic 4000 :- 6%

Ikepod Hour Glass : + 15%

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Monaco : – 8,5%

Laurent Ferrier Prototype : + 17%

Louis Vuitton Tambour Diving II Chronograph : – 48%

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Roue Carée Seconde. + 10%

MB&F HM4 Thunderbolt Flying Panda : –  15%

Montblanc Coll. Villeret 1958 Vintage Pulsograph. : –  33%

Patek Philippe Ref. 3939 : + 155%

Piaget Altiplano Skeleton : + 80%

Richard Mille RM 027 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal : +  2%

Romain Jerome Rock the Rock DNA :  0% – sold for expected price

TAG Heuer Monaco Mikrograph 1/100th : – 27%

Ulysse Nardin Freak Diavolo. +43%

Urwerk UR103 Phoenix : + 31%

Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art : -10%

Van Cleef & Arpels Poetic Complication : + 72% plus cher

Vulcain Skeleton Cricket : – 67%

Zenith Set of 2 Captain Chronograph : - 27%

Gerald Genta – Who Will Remember?

| August 23, 2011 | 9 Replies

Dear Manufactures,

It has been all over the web these past few days: much-loved watch designer Gerald Genta sadly passed away on August 16th aged 80. There is no need to recall here how he contributed to the design of some of the most iconic watches of this past third of a century, from the Royal Oak of Audemars Piguet, to the Nautilus de Patek Philippe, through to the Ingenieur of IWC and Omega’s Constellation.

Humble and modest witnesses of the inexorable flow of the watchmaking life, many journalists dedicated some articles to this amazing man and his contribution. And there was no doubt that your brands, which owes him an incredible part of your current business, would give him a vibrant farewell and last goodbye.

But you did not.

As this article is published (things may change), none of you decided that Genta’s death was worth a few words. Not a single press release, not a single word on your homepage, nothing. Yes, Lebron James’ first visit to China as an ambassador is newsworthy, but surely so is this? The watchmaking industry lost one of its greatest designers, a man whom without many of you would not be where you are today if he had not stepped into your office one day, and yet it seems it’s just business as usual.

To be honest this was somewhat disappointing if not a bit shocking for us here at The Watch Lounge, with our very modest contribution to the world of watchmaking and its related news. We have always been strong believers in the strength of human creation, will and vision and constantly seek to re-enforce how important the people behind the watches are, like here or here. And whilst we think this especially important for small brands that do not have the same marketing capacities as their larger counterparts, we think it is even more important to show you that ‘references’ in a catalogue first started life as simple sketches.

Dear Manufacturers, you continue to enchant us with your mind-blowing creations each and every day, and we thank you for that. But the complete lack of ‘in memoriam’ words for Gerald Genta from you is a real shame…

We will always remember what this great man has contributed, but will you?

80, and still young: report from the Reverso Anniversary

| July 5, 2011 | Reply

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
© Jaeger-LeCoultre

There was an undeniable Reverso vibe in Paris this past week. It was a mix of elegance, prestige, with a touch of celebration. It’s something you’ve seen a hundred times before, and still there is something new to discover each and every time.

Iconic Birthday
Like all luxury manufacturers, the watchmaking industry only counts a very limited number of true iconic watches: the Royal Oak by Audermars Piguet, the Rolex Submariner, the Reverso from Jaeger-LeCoultre, and a few others that will make die-hard watch-nerds comment on this article.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Where it happened : Ecole Nationale des Beaux-Arts, Paris, France – © Jaeger-LeCoultre

So what is an iconic watch? Well first and foremost, its a piece that never ages, regardless of the passing years, a piece that sets trends as opposed to following them. And this is exactly what Jaeger-LeCoultre’s phenomenally successful Reverso collection has been doing ever since it was launched, eighty years ago. And so to celebrate this on-going success the brand threw a birthday party bash in Paris that would put the likes of a fellow geriatric like Hugh Hefner to shame.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
The Reverso Case of movements – © The Watch Lounge

Showing the timeless appeal of the Reverso collection party goers ranged in age from 17 to 77, and included a number of celebs such as Clive Owen, Adrian Brody, Diane Krueger and Catherine Deneuve who were all on hand to celebrate the milestone.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Clive Owen Adrian Brody
Clive Owen & Adrian Brody – © Jaeger-LeCoultre

But no one had any misconceptions about who the real stars were on the day – the watches themselves. The Sentier-based manufacture displayed an unbelievable collection of 80 Reversos, ranging from the 1931 classics to the latest Gyro-Tourbillons. Although each piece had its own distinct personality the one thing these iconic pieces all shared in common was the fact that you could still wear any one of them as if they had just been created the day before (with the possible exception of some of mid-eighties pieces – but that is a personal opinion only).

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
80 Reversos to celebrate each of the 80 years – © Jaeger-LeCoultre

March 4, 1931, 1:15 PM
Although she is now 80 years old, the Reverso still looked and felt like a young lady celebrating her birthday and at the end of the night 800 people gathered in the beautiful Ecole Nationale des Beaux-Arts de Paris to blow out the candles. A fitting location really as it was here, in Paris, that the very first patent for a “wristwatch which can slide on its base and flip over on itself” was recorded, on March 4th 1931, at 1:15 PM.

This was the second event hosted by Jaeger-LeCoultre to celebrate the Reverso anniversary, after the first ‘dry-run’ event was held a few months ago in the birthplace of Polo; Argentina. Fortunately for us however it was during the Paris event that the brand launched this gorgeous limited edition new enameled Reverso: the Grande Reverso Email (limited to just 25 pieces).

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Email Bleu
New Reverso Email Bleu – © Jaeger-LeCoultre

Champagne 2.0
The event was, indeed, a great success, although one might suggest that there was a little bit too much “looking back”, and not enough “looking ahead” to what the next 80 years might hold. This came as a bit of a surprise really as Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the few ‘big’ brands in the luxury watch industry that has fully embraced the forward-thinking ideas of social media and moved to engage in more meaningful ways on-line with all its stakeholders.

Fortunately we managed to have an insightful chat over a couple of glasses of Champagne with Cécile Tinchant, the 2.0 lady behind the digital identity of the brand. Things go fast now. CEO Jérôme Lambert is open to new technologies and the path Jaeger-LeCoultre chose to take a few years ago has shown itself to be relevant, thoughtful, and in perfect harmony with the brand’s core values.

The Reverso collection will continue to have significant role to play in this brave new digital world and whilst we would have been delighted to hear more about what the future might hold for this iconic timepiece that night, we are sure this is going to be an exciting new chapter of the Jaeger-LeCoultre story.

And we will be there to witness it.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Here’s how it started… – © The Watch Lounge

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
…and how it ended… – © The Watch Lounge