Posts Tagged ‘basel’
Weird Watch Wednesday: The Rebellion Predator
It’s unique and aggressive styling make the newest timepiece from novice watchmaker Rebellion our feature piece for this week. Aptly named the Predator, this latest creation represents Rebellion’s first attempt at a timepiece in a round case whilst still staying true to their automobile racing roots. Conceived in collaboration with the highly regarded, international watch designer Eric Giroud, this latest offering presents a truly memorable looking timepiece.
Racing Heritage
Like all of Rebellion’s previous timepieces, the Predator takes many of its technical and design cues from the automobile racing industry. Many examples of this can be readily found in both the case and dial composition; the brake discs, the pedals, the push rod shaped bridges connecting the chronograph counters to the dial all combine to give the watch an authentic racing feel. Even the sub-dials themselves are reminiscent of gauges in a high-performance race car.
The case itself constructed using a sandwich of superimposed layers which are available in various materials, including combinations of red gold, steel and ceramic, giving the wearer a number of options when it comes to choosing a more personalized timepiece. The base of the case is a honeycomb design which provides a rigid but at the same time lightweight construction.
To really distinguish the piece from competitors (as if it wasn’t enough already!) the bezel is attached by eight distinctive screws custom made by Rebellion and prominently featuring the brand’s logo on their heads.
Technically Adept
Like all good race cars, however, the Predator is more than just a pretty face. Animated by an automatic RE-1 calibre with a 50-hour power reserve this new piece makes the formidable technical mastery of the double sectorial seconds hand at 9 o’clock seem easy. If you take a closer look at the dial you will see that the shorter hand indicates 0 to 30 seconds, with the longer one taking over for 30 to 60 seconds.
Whilst certainly not a high-end complication by any means, it is still a very cool novelty and only serves to add to the authentic racing feel of the piece.
Also offered in a time-only version with three hands and date, as well as a mono-pusher chronograph, the new Predator is presented on a black rubber strap with a red gold, ceramic or steel patented folding clasp, depending on your choice of case materials.
The Predator will be limited in its production and once it is formally announced at Basel World is expected to sell at somewhere between CHF20,000 (US$18,500) – CHF50,000 (US$46,500).
The Final Word
This newest piece from Rebellion certainly won’t suit all tastes. However, for those interested in something with a very distinctive look and the technical credentials to match the Predator definitely warrants a second look. Giroud has designed a piece that stays true to the brand’s race car inspired ethos, incorporating functionality and form within a solidly constructed case.
You may never get behind the wheel of a race car but you will certainly look the part.
What do you think? Leave a comment. | Filed under BaselWorld 2010, Weird Watch Wednesday
Bremont To Release Limited Edition Supermarine At Basel World 2010
Last year we told you about the release of British watch maker Bremont’s inaugural dive watch, the Supermarine 500. Highly praised for combining the functionality required from a dive watch with the classic characteristics of a dress watch, the Supermarine 500 was a great success. To commemorate and follow up0 the first model’s outstanding performance, the company will be presenting the Limited Edition ‘Supermarine Descent’ at Basel World this year.
What’s New
The Supermarine Descent retains all the classic style cues and practicality of its namesake, however, the case has been treated with a sleek black DLC coating which contrasts superbly with the generously applied green superluminvoa highlights. This actually looks and feels like a watch that a professional marine or commando would wear.
Like the original the Descent has been designed and built using Bremont’s unique Trip-Tick three piece case construction which gives it a water resistance depth of 500m or 1660ft whilst at the same allowing it to retain the classic curved profile of the 42mm case design, a design feature which received high-praise in the Supermarine 500.
Other than the aesthetic enhancements the Descent retains all the strong functional characteristics of its predecessor, including Bremont’s rigorously tested ‘anti-shock’ movement mount which has been designed to help protect the movement against large shocks. The movement is also housed inside an Anti-Magnetic faraday cage to protect the balance, balance spring and escapement from any effects of magnetization.
Limited to 407 pieces – the top speed achieved by George Stainforth in 1931 in the Supermarine S6B Schneider Trophy Seaplane from which the watch takes its name – the recommended retail price will be £3,195 (approximately US$5,000) and we daresay will be available for purchase from Jura Watches after its official release at Basel.
The Final Word
In reality this new limited edition from Bremont is simply a very minor modification of the original but it looks so cool that we just don’t care. More importantly though Bremont has not done what so many other brands do and created a limited edition model which looks similar to the original but cost three times as much. The limited edition Descent will only cost you £200 (US$315) more than the original, which we think is very reasonable for a high-quality DLC coating.
We were big fans of the original Supermarine 500 and believe that the new limited edition Descent will be just as successful.
Corum Releases Two New Golden Bridges In Preparation for Baselworld 2010
In anticipation for the Baselworld 2010 fair in March, Corum releases two new Golden Bridge models. The new models, one of which is designed for women, celebrate the 30th anniversary of the original Corum Golden Bridge, slim, baguette movement. Six variations of the new Golden Bridge 2010 for men will be produced in limited editions of 33, 93, or 133 examples. A new dial was conceived for this prestigious timepiece.
The second model named Miss Golden Bridge introduces an all new case and will have a limited production of no more then 333 pieces per year, which is not surprising considering the naturally limiting labor-intensive manufacturing process of the CO113 Golden Bridge movements. Both models offer novel looks, but they stay true to the idea that the rare, in-house CO113 calibre movement must be the primary focus.
The Golden Bridge 2010 will be encased in the well known 34 by 51mm tonneau-shaped case, fitted with sapphire crystal windows on every facet. The difference lies inside the case. The dial is placed behind the movement and it is cut out to allow for a view of the mechanism from the case-back. Alpha hour markers are applied to the dial that is engraved with a sunburst pattern. This decoration alludes to stage curtains with the movement as the primary player. This is a subtle message symbolizing the celebration of the mechanism’s anniversary.
Six distinct variations of the Corum Golden Bridge 2010 will be released this year using red gold, white gold, or platinum for the case combined with either the black, solid yellow gold, or dark grey version of the dial (pictured above).
The Miss Golden Bridge is unique thanks to its case. The new case is slim and the strap lugs are removed to give the impression that the black glossy band is integrated. The strap is easily interchangeable, however. The new design retains all the major features of the basic Golden Bridge models with the four sapphire crystals offering a unimpeded view of the CO113 calibre. Diamond-studded variations of the Miss Golden Bridge merge haute joaillerie with haute horlogerie. Four variations are available in rose or white gold and with or without the 90, hand-set diamonds. Corum will never produce more then a total of 333 each year.
The Golden Bridge is a source of pride and an important milestone for Corum. It symbolizes the company’s goal to distinguish itself from others with visionary designs and superlative watchmaking. The Miss Golden Bridge and the GB 2010 display amazing craftsmanship without being overly extravagant, therefore upholding the simplicity and subtlety of the thin, baguette movement to which they pay tribute.
Marco is a Corum specialist at Matt Baily.
Vacheron Constantin Malte Moon Phase and Power Reserve
Makers of arguably some of the most beautiful watches in the world, I am rarely (if ever) disappointed by Swiss masters Vacheron Constantin. The latest piece to catch my eye is the Malte Moon Phase and Power-Reserve. A very distinctive looking piece that combines the Marque’s traditional style and technical complexity with an exceptional level of legibility and unique appeal to create an instant classic.
A Brief History Lesson
For those of you that may be new to the world of high-end watch making it is worthwhile touching on Vacheron Constantin’s history so that you appreciate just who we are dealing with here. As the loyal guardian of an unbroken Genevan watchmaking tradition since 1755, Vacheron Constantin has an exceptional heritage that represents an inexhaustible source of inspiration for its contemporary creations such as this new Malte model. In 1889, the Geneva-based manufacturer produced its very first wristwatches and commenced on a journey of stylistic exploration.
Subtle Yet Shapely
Presented in a tonneau or “barrel” shape case, this is a style that was first explored by Vacheron Constantin back in 1912. Throughout the years this unique case design has seen several variations to its basic shape, at times elongated, curved, embellished or pared down according to the inspiration of the moment. This is the true genius of a Vacheron Constantin timepiece, the subtlety with which the brand shapes its pieces, at times almost imperceptible to the casual observer and at the same time mind blowing to the seasoned enthusiast.
A contemporary expression of the brand’s inimitable artistic sensitivity, the Malte line was born with the third millennium in a reinterpretation of the tonneau shape. Be warned though, the case size is very generous at 39mm x 49mm and as such will not suit all wrists. Yet it is this same size that allows for the outstanding legibility of the borderline complex dial.
Believe me though, with a dial this stunning, you will want to be able to fully appreciate even the finest of touches. Beautifully adorned with five different finishes, the level of highly skilled craftsmanship involved would be almost unthinkable from any one else. The inner zone features a silvered, finely hand-guilloché “Clous de Paris” or hobnail motif. The outer zone is decorated with a vertical satin-brushed finish, also silvered.
The minute circle, the power-reserve display as well as the inscriptions Vacheron Constantin Genève and Swiss Made are all transferred, while the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock is circular satin-brushed. And finally, the minute-circle and power-reserve zones are screen-printed in white.
As the finishing touch on a wonderfully subdued dial the moon-phase display presents an intelligent blend of technology and expertise, composed of a disc with a galvanized base and a moon face in 18-carat white gold or pink gold depending on the model. The extremely broad dial ensuring user-friendly readability is punctuated by nine hour-markers, two Roman numerals and a Maltese cross, all in 18-carat white or pink gold, depending on the version.
Keeping It In-House
Animating this refined masterpiece is the manual-winding 1410 calibre developed and manufactured entirely in-house by Vacheron Constantin. In recognition of its heritage it bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, an indication reserved exclusively for movements stemming from the finest Geneva workshops, and graced with exceptionally careful hand-crafted finishing.
In addition to hour and minute hands, the Calibre 1410 drives a precision moon-phase display which will not require any setting for more than 100 years and an indication of the over 40-hour power reserve. This 22-jewel manual-winding movement oscillates at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Available in a choice of 18-carat white gold or 5N pink gold, the satin-brushed case-back is secured by screws. The dial is protected by a glareproofed cambered sapphire crystal and is fitted with a square-scale alligator-leather strap in black for the white gold model and chestnut brown for the rose gold model – both equipped with a gold folding clasp matching the case colour.
The Final Word
In case you didn’t glean this from the above I am very big admirer of Vacheron Constantin and their stunning creations. The Malte Moon Phase presents a very attractive option for a discerning individual who is seeking a high-quality piece from a very well-respected watch maker that offers a level of moderate complication without going over the top.
The appeal of this watch is both in its subtlety and its legibility, as well as the exceptional craftsmanship it exhibits. This is a timeless piece that will be passed down through the generations.
For more information see Vacheron Constantin’s official website.
Weird Watch Wednesday: Concord’s C1 Quantum Gravity
This week’s watch provides us with an excellent example of taking things one step too far. Or in the case of the Concord C1 Quantum Gravity, several steps too far. I am a huge supporter of pushing boundaries in high-end watch design and challenging conventional thinking, especially when it is done successfully. Think MB&F’s HM No.2.2 or Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps’ Sequential One. However, to me the C1 Quantum Gravity is the answer to a question no one asked.
Defying Gravity (And Good Taste)
Before I launch any further into this article I just want to clarify that I do not in anyway dispute the technical genius involved in the creation of this timepiece. The concept of itself is truly unique and ambitious to say the least. Designed to be provocative and defiant, this new species of watch supposedly lives time as if it were an experiment, a source of stimulation. The question is, who is Concord defying? Good taste perhaps?
As advanced and complex as this piece is, the simple fact is that I would not wear it. It is large, unattractive and seems as though it has had as many high-end complications shoved in, excuse my crassness, wherever they will fit. Yes, it does feature a ground-breaking aerial bi-axial tourbillon mechanism and a vertical power reserve but I ask you, what is brains without beauty?
I would put forth the argument here (and please if you disagree do tell me below in the comments section) that the C1 Quantum Gravity has committed the cardinal sin of forsaking design and aesthetics in the name of technical complexity. Watch making is a form of artwork as much as it is a form of engineering, the two must be married and blended together as one to form a finished piece of mechanically brilliant art. You simply cannot have one without the other.
The Final Word
It is undeniable that the C1 Quantum Gravity has crossed over into a new realm of watch making altogether and perhaps this is where my issue lays. Maybe the fault is not with the visionaries at the C Lab Series but rather with me, as a purist watch lover. Maybe I have not yet evolved to a point where I am ready, nay capable of accepting and understanding this piece. Or maybe the C1 Quantum Gravity has just moved too far away from the roots of traditional watch making to be considered in the same category of other high-end horological masterpieces.
After all, boundaries can only be pushed so far before they are irreversibly broken.
|
|
search the watch lounge
enter your email to get updates in your inbox
Latest Comments
- Chris: The lugs, the lugs, the lugs. Bremont did an amazing job designing this watch, especially...
- Cliff: I already have one of these. I like it. Built like a tank, and almost as big! So I had to...
- Ramsay Taplin: It looks like a watch Vicky Pollard might wear. http://www.littlerbritain.c...
New This Week
- Looking for the latest posts on The Watch Lounge?
- The 'New This Week' Category features all the posts published for the week from Sunday through to Saturday
- Its refreshed every Sunday to make it easy to quickly find the latest stories that have been published.
So to see what's new on The Watch Lounge this week just click here!