Posts Tagged ‘Chronograph’
How To Move Forwards While Looking Backwards – Innovation In The Watch Industry Part.4
In Part.3 we looked at how young watch-maker Romain Jerome is attempting to turn a concept into an icon, with the on-going development of their DNA of Famous Legends series. Today, we turn our attention to another, far more established brand who has already achieved all that and so much more. The challenges they face are somewhat different yet overcoming them are just as integral to the brands continued success.
The question is, how can you be innovative and forward-looking when so much of your brand’s identity is so inherently linked to one particular series ?
The Icon
It’s fair to say that when most people (well watch people anyway) think of Audemars-Piguet, they think of the Royal Oak series. To such an extent some might argue, that it almost seems like the other references live in the shadow of their famous big brother. Rest assured though that these other magnificent pieces, such as the Jules Audemars or the Millenary, are alive and well, and continue to reflect the sublime expertise of this highly respected Manufacture.
Nonetheless though, is it possible that the Royal Oak in someway inhibits the brand’s ability to grow, its ability to create and attract new interest? Arnaud Vidal, General Manager of Audemars Piguet France certainly doesn’t think so:
“Without any hesitation, no. The Royal Oak is for us and for our clients an iconic product and it’s important to remember, from a market perspective, that some brands struggle all their life to be associated with an iconic product. We, we have it, and our clients are very attached to it.”
Developing Not Just Creating
Certainly no arguments here, but what impact does this have on innovation? Especially when you consider that more than 50% of the brand’s revenue comes from one single model, what incentive is there to be developing new models? However, as Vidal rightly points out, innovation isn’t just about developing new models. It also involves developing the models you already have:
“Even at the unique scale of the Royal Oak and its declensions Royal Oak Offshore, we are in constant innovation, following three different axis : materials, finishing, and complications.”
Indeed Audemars Piguet owns one of the most powerful and productive R&D departments in the industry (Renaud et Papi) and it utilizes this facility to great effect. A perfect example of what Mr. Vidal is talking about is the Millenary Carbon, which features a case made from a combination of aluminium, steel, nickel, and forged carbon (the last of which is the equivalent of more than 100 kilometres of compressed carbon fibers!)
On the complications side, Audemars-Piguet also demonstrates their know-how, for instance with a superb tourbillon and a double cylinder which ensures 12 days of regulated autonomy.
Still though, this Millenary Carbon is a limited edition, a tactic which is becoming increasingly common in the industry and in this context makes us question whether the brand is relying on the Royal Oak for its core business and then creating limited editions to generate buzz for the brand?
Although many would consider this a commercially sensitive topic Vidal does not shy away and answers us without any ambiguity:
“No, and for four reasons. The first one is that we don’t need limited editions in our product range, as we unveil around thirty new items per year, amongst which limited editions are just a part.
The second reason is that our limited editions are designed as a special attention, a thanks for our closest customers. As a proof, each limited edition is almost completely sold out even before we produce it.
The third reason is that we don’t markup our limited editions, except, of course, with the potential additions we made to the standard version and that could impact the final price.
Last but not least, the fourth reason is that the limited edition concept, often seen as a sales booster, is on the contrary, for us, a constraint; we are a traditional manufacture with limited production (editor’s note: 25.000 units / year), and each limited edition that we make requires the use of our production tools and consequently slows down the production of our standard models.”
The Final Word
It seems that unlike some of the other brands we have looked at so far, Audemars-Piguet invests in innovation (at least in part) as a way of rewarding its loyal customers. Arguably a key difference here is that AP is a very established and well-respected brand and therefore isn’t as concerned with proving its merit as a watch-maker.
Regardless though, the knowledge and expertise gained from these special editions still flows down to the standard range, ensuring the company continues to produce innovative timepieces of the highest quality.
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Weird Watch Wednesday: Chronoswiss Grand Opus DLC
This week’s piece provides not only a visual feast for the eyes but, unlike many of the other watches that feature in this category, it is also quite wearable. The latest evolution of the well-regarded Grand Opus chronograph series, created by Swiss watch maker Chronoswiss, this new piece effectively charters this traditionally conservative brand into new, darker territory.
Hence the name: Black Magic.
A New Look For An Old Favorite
Presented at this year’s Basel World, this new piece was an instant hit with us. For a start it looks sensational, with the selective use of color providing just the right level of contrast on the dial and ensuring that legibility isn’t sacrificed in the name of aesthetic appeal.
Well, as least as much as it is possible to do with a skeleton dial, the designs of which nearly always present issues with readability.
Still, if you are in the market for a skeleton dial you really cannot go past Chronoswiss when it comes to main-stream producers. They produce arguably some of the best skeleton dials available in the price range they compete in and this has been acknowledged previously with awards and the like. The attention to detail is impeccable and the finished result really is quite amazing.
The original Grand Opus in Rose Gold
Crossing Over To The Dark Side
In order to create and cross over to the “dark side” with these timepieces, Chronoswiss employed an innovative coating that goes by the name Dianoir®. Whilst this is a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating, what sets the Black Magic apart is that unlike many other brands which simply use DLC coatings that are already commercially available, Chronoswiss invested in and developed its own original, patented process.
Using a pulsating ray of light, a plasma is created in a vacuum environment that is aimed at the substrate to be coated. Thus, a much higher amount of diamond is created that produces more than double the hardness of the coating, which you will really appreciate the first time you drop it.
Not only is the DLC casing incredibly robust, however, it is also very aesthetically pleasing both in the look and the feel. Moreover, it completely changes the appearance of this classic model, taking it from a vintage motor car to mean machine ready for action. It looks aggressive without being overpowering and provides a totally new perspective into the inside of the solid 39-part black case for the observer.
As you would expect the model still maintains the classic Chronoswiss characteristics, such as a fluted screw-down bezel, screw-down polished case back in addition to a solid metal ognion-style crown and screw-in lugs with patented Autobloc System. The hands are painted bright red and/or luminous white.
As a guide for pricing, the original Grand Opus Chronograph in red gold is available for $19,500, so I would expect this to come in at probably just a little under that.
The Final Word
Undeniably DLC coatings and black-out watches are in high-fashion at the moment in the luxury watch industry and so it comes as no surprise really that Chronoswiss have released this new Black Magic model. What really appeals to us, however, is how this coating has really changed the whole look and feel, and as a result the personality, of this previously classical timepiece.
The Black Magic is edgy and cool, whilst still retaining an exceptionally high-level of craftsmanship and finishing which you would expect in a much more expensive watch. It certainly won’t suit everyone’s tastes but we applaud the brand for making, what is for them, a bold move in a new direction.
Classic And Classy – The New Longines Column-Wheel Chronograph
We tend not to cover mainstream brands too often here on The Watch Lounge. It’s not that we don’t like them, indeed we admire many of their exceptional pieces, it’s just that we feel there are already a number of great sites out there that do a more than a sufficient job of covering these brands, like Perpetuelle, FratelloWatches and Ablogtoread. However, when we saw this stunning, stylish new piece from Longines we simply could not help ourselves. So enjoy!
Classic Style
Scheduled to be officially launched as part of Longine’s new collection at Basel World this year, the new Column-Wheel Chronograph exhibits all the characteristics an instant classic should. Subtle and refined in its style the dial looks superb and is clear and uncluttered, just as a chronograph should be. Presented in muted tones that provide just the right level of contrast, this new piece is an absolute pleasure to behold.
The polished stainless steel case is perfectly sized at 39mm, and also is available in rose gold. The brown alligator strap with buckle ensures this piece is both elegant and versatile. This is a watch that can be worn in the boardroom, on your yacht or even on the golf course, the choice is yours.
However, it’s not just timeless looks that this piece has going for it.
Technically Astute
At its heart beats the very exclusive L688.2 column-wheel chronograph movement launched in 2009. Mandated and financed by Longines, ETA developed this exclusive new automatic column-wheel movement for a wrist chronograph, designed to provide an exceptional degree of user comfort without comprising on accuracy or reliability.
For those of you who are after something a little sportier, there is also the Column-Wheel Sports Chronograph (pictured above) presented in a slightly larger 41mm stainless steel case with a black or grey ceramic bezel. Powered by the same movement, the Sports version is offered on your choice of rubber or steel bands.
No word on pricing as yet but expect it to be between $2,000 – $4,000.
The Final Word
Although Longines gives you two choices here the clear winner in our eyes is the classic Column-Wheel Chronograph. It is an exceptionally well-made timepiece and its distinguished yet refined style will ensure it’s never out of place on your wrist, regardless of the occasion. Plus it has the technical credentials to back up its classic good looks.
This is definitely one for the collection.
Hublot Big Bang Tutti Frutti – Who Said Classy Can’t Be Colorful?
As you are all no doubt aware Basel World will be upon us in a matter of weeks, with the world’s best watch and jewellery brands coming together in Switzerland to unveil their latest creations. We’ve covered a few of the ones that have really caught our fancy so far and will continue to do so in the lead up to the show. To date though, the focus has predominantly been on men’s watches and so we thought it was high time we brought you a ladies’ watch, and what a striking piece it is! Gentleman, you would be well advised not to let your wives or girlfriends read this.
You have been warned.
Colorful and Bold
Scheduled to be presented at Basel World this year, the new Big Bang Steel Tutti Frutti from Swiss watch maker Hublot is nothing short of stunning. Bold and colorful without being overwhelming, this latest piece exudes an exotic sense of style and power. At the same time the color-scheme is resolutely feminine, lending a touch of softness to this piece not always seen in oversized ladies’ models.
Presented on a pink alligator strap, the case is made of stainless steel with satin-finished endpieces. The beautifully simplistic fine mother of pearl dial is surrounded by 48 baguette-cut pink sapphires, providing the perfect blend of elegance and attitude and ensuring that this is a timepiece that will grab attention.
As we touched on before it is slightly large for a ladies piece at 41mm but there has been a growing trend toward women wearing 40 – 42mm men’s watches over the last year or two and we think given its bold design it is actually perfectly sized.
Powered by a mechanical automatic winding Hublot Calibre HUB4300 movement with chronograph function, this piece is not only attractive but also sophisticated and practical. Highly desirable qualities in any context!
The Final Word
Certainly this new piece from uber popular watch maker Hublot is not for everyone tastes and we daresay that it would take a certain kind of individual to pull it off. However, that’s exactly who its been designed for; strong, confident women who are looking for a distinctive way to express their own sense of style.
Unlike other ladies’ pieces we’ve seen in the past, the Big Bang Tutti Frutti combines a sense of sportiness and attitude with a touch of elegance, whilst all the time remaining absolutely feminine.
We love it! The question is, do you?
Weird Watch Wednesday: The Concord C1 Code Chronograph
This week’s piece from Swiss watch maker Concord is certainly unique but we’re not really sure if that’s a good thing. Over the last few years the luxury brand has built a reputation for pushing the envelope when it comes to design, in large part thanks to the marketing ingenuity of former President Vincent Perriard, who is now working his magic over at Techno Marine as the global CEO. However, this latest piece, the C1 Code Chronograph seems to lack that spirit of innovation, replacing it instead with cheap gimmicks.
Under the guiding hand of Mr Perriard Concord produced the C1 Chronograph, a watch which attracted a great deal of fanfare and was well-known for being as loved as it was hated. Admirers extolled its innovative and unique design while critics said it was clunky and unattractive. Regardless of what you think, it cannot be denied that the C1 series well and truly put Concord back on the map.
As such its not surprising then that the brand would want to create further variations of this successful base model in order to maintain interest in the brand and continue to drive sales. Having said that though, this latest version due to be officially launched at Basel World next month, seems to lack the creativity and boldness of its predecessors.
Essentially what we have here is a Concord C1 Chronograph with mathematical equations engraved into the sapphire crystal. The reasons for this are rather vague as there is no direct link that we can see between Concord and mathematics, although we do appreciate that watch making is certainly a very precise art.
To us, it seems that the designers over at Concord just got lazy.
Fellow watch enthusiast Kyle over at Perpetuelle recently gave his thoughts on this rather unusual choice of dial “decoration” saying:
“…while the engraving of an algebraic formula/cryptic mathematical equation directly into the crystal of the watch is novel, it seems to make the (already busy) dial hard to read and I wonder what is the real allure of this for a potential buyer? I see none.”
We tend to agree.
From our point of view there is no added value to the consumer and legibility (arguably the most important aspect of a watch) is further reduced. To be honest, we would be surprised if even mathematicians found this to be an attractive timepiece, although undoubtedly it would draw some attention.
The concept of engraving on the sapphire crystal on the other hand though is undeniably cool, and it will certainly be interesting to see what other (perhaps more innovative?) brands will come up with. Who knows, perhaps we’ll see a watch with the entire dial engraved on the sapphire crystal? Admittedly unlikely, but you never know!
The Final Word
While we think Concord have got it half right by trying something a little different, in our eyes they have missed the mark somewhat. Perhaps this is yet another example of a concept not transferring as envisioned from the drawing board to design reality? Whether it was their intention or not, this new model simply comes across as a poorly disguised attempt to exploit a previously successful model which we don’t think will fool seasoned consumers.
Yes it is unusual but not really in a good way.
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Latest Comments
- Nick Orloff: Beautiful piece, regrettably a little (?) out of my price range. I’d love to...
- Olivier Muller: Thanks, BMW
Stay tuned ! - Jack: Looks like a really nice watch for the price!