Tag: counterfeit

Wow Watch Wednesday: The Perpetual Flying Tourbillon

| December 16, 2009 | 10 Replies

Perpetual Flying Tourbillon

I’ve selected this week’s watch to demonstrate the value of equipping yourself with the right knowledge before you go out and make that all important purchase. In the course of my daily travels across the internet I chanced across this rather innocuous company that purports to offer what is renowned as highly complex, and therefore expensive, complication for a seemingly impossible price.

As near as I can tell the company is called Perpetual and they produce watches complete with an exhibition flying tourbillon complication. I almost forgot to mention, these watches retail for less than US$1,000.

If this doesn’t even sound slightly ridiculous to you than you owe it to yourself to read on!

The Flying Tourbillon
You may recall that last week’s “Weird Watch Wednesday” feature watch was also equipped with a variation of the humble tourbillon created by Louis Breguet. As such, I won’t go into too much detail about the history of the tourbillon again. Essentially what you need to know is that rather than being supported by a bridge, or cock, at both the top and bottom, it is cantilevered, being only supported from one side. Whilst there is no real technical advantage to this, the visual appeal of the flying tourbillon in motion is simply stunning.

Some of the more famous brands to incoporate flying tourbillons are Cartier with their Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon, Ulysse Nardin with their “Royal Blue” Mystery Tourbillon and more recently Glashütte with the Original Senator Meissen Tourbillon. The point I am trying to illustrate here is that such is the complexity of the Flying Tourbillon complication that generally speaking it is only ever attempted by and limited to master watchmakers. And this is adequately reflected in the prices, which generally start from six figures and up.

Perpetual Flying Tourbillon

The Perpetual “Flying Tourbillon”
Thus this brings us to the supposed “Flying Tourbillon” models from Perpetual. I think it should be fairly clear by this stage based on what we’ve just learnt above, that these watches should not be taken at face value. Just looking at the finishing on the dial above it seems abundantly obvious to me that this manufacturer certainly does not have the skills required to produce a complication as technically advanced as the flying tourbillon.

The website tries to compensate for this by saying that watch movements are purchased directly from a “first class specialist movement maker”, although no indication is actually given to the location or merit of this particular producer. Confusingly though, the site then goes on to say that design, assembly and most importantly, fine-tuning of the movements and other parts is carried out by their own experienced watchmakers.

But didn’t they just say they buy their watch movements from a third party?

The list of discrepancies goes on and on and this is yet another excellent example of the type of “genuine fakes” we discussed in our two-part special on counterfeit watches. Its not a replica as such, as it is not a cheap re-production of another watch, rather it is holding itself out to be a genuine, stand-alone brand. The site even features a nice video to show the movement in action!

The Final Word
I am certainly no expert on high-end watch complications and there are plenty of people out there who are far more qualified than I to pass judgment on these timepieces (perhaps they would care to comment?) but this seems like a very clear cut case to me. Quite simply put, you get what you pay for. The above is not a genuine flying tourbillon complication and quite frankly, to purchase and wear this watch would be a crime against good taste.

Hopefully you have learnt something from reading this article and perhaps will think twice the next time you see that “luxury timepiece” on the internet for next to nix!

Fighting Fakes: Part Two

| September 15, 2009 | 1 Reply

replica watches

In part two of my two-part special on counterfeit watches it is my goal to equip you with some valuable hints and tips on how to steer clear of imitators. Unfortunately the rapid progression in the design and manufacturing capabilities of the black market has meant that identifying a counterfeit watch has become far more difficult. However, there are some steps you can take as a consumer to protect yourself. Read on to learn more.

If you missed Part One you can read it here.

There’s fake and then there’s fake!
I think it’s fair to say that most people who buy a counterfeit watch do so with the knowledge that they are not purchasing the genuine article. However, what many consumers fail to realise is that there are two levels of counterfeit watch. The first is an extremely cheap imitation. The watch carries a luxury name but there’s no effort made to copy details of the real watch. Sellers assume a customer who pays $30 on a street corner must know it’s a fake and therefore must know that they’re not getting a “real bargain” on a $2000 watch.

A higher-quality fake is one designed to closely resemble the real product. It may incorporate real gold, diamonds and leather. It may have a case that bears a legitimate model number, but have other parts that are poor-quality substitutes. Such a watch will sell for hundreds or even thousands of dollars, and an uneducated buyer could take it to be genuine. However, it is of inferior quality, made with questionable parts and workmanship. Tips to avoid this situation:

  • Only purchase your watch from an authorized dealer or from a trusted source (if you are purchasing second-hand.)
  • Do your research. There is abundant information available on the internet on nearly every make and model of luxury watch. Make sure you know what the watch should be made of, the different dial variations, etc. Very often counterfeit watches of luxury brands will bear the same name and branding but the design will be unlike any the watchmaker has ever released.
  • Make sure the watch comes with a valid warranty. Even if you are buying online many re-sellers will offer 1 – 2 year warranties.
  • If it’s too good to be true it probably is. If there is a highly limited edition watch going for an unbelievable price chances are it’s probably fake. Again though, do your research. There are genuine bargains to be found online and you don’t want to miss out.

Genuine Fakes
Another emerging trend is the practice of misleadingly representing inexpensive watches as if they were fine luxury timepieces. They are sold under their own brand name, so they are not fakes of another company’s brand. But their products are of modest to staggeringly cheap manufacture and have none of the merits of the fine, expensive brands they allude to. The typical scam on these are a combination of:

  • An impressive Swiss, German or European sounding name.
  • An impressive “retail price” or “RRP” (recommended retail price).
  • Fancy verbiage that sounds like what a luxury watch brand would say.
  • Impressive comparisons of features to those of “other” luxury timepieces.
  • A special price you can buy it for that is incredibly below the retail price.

The deception here is that claimed retail price is a complete lie. These watches sell regularly at prices that are a trivial fraction–often as much as 70-95% off–of their claimed retail value. How can they sell them so cheap? Simple, they are cheap watches. Ones made to be profitably sold in the lower price range of their actual asking price. Any perception that these luxury impostors are even remotely worth their advertised retail price is nothing more than pure marketing bravado and intentional deception. So be aware of big discounts on seemingly ‘high-end’ brands that you’ve never actually heard of before.

The Final Word
The above is only a microcosm of the information that is available on the internet to help you protect yourself from counterfeiters. However, the onus is on you to do your research and be aware of the potential pitfalls of not buying from an authorized dealer. Having said that, as I mentioned before there are plenty of good bargains out there so arm yourself with as much information as possible and make the judgement call.

Does anyone else have any additional hints and tips or experiences with counterfeit watches that they would like to share with other readers?

Fighting Fakes: Two-Part Special

| September 14, 2009 | 1 Reply

replica watches

The global spread of counterfeit watches is an issue that plagues watchmakers, retailers, enthusiasts and everyday consumers alike. Given the sheer magnitude of fakes flooding the markets the best defence available to protect yourself is knowledge. In this two-part special I will explore in detail what constitutes a counterfeit, how its effecting the industry and what’s been done about it. In part two I will provide some valuable hints and tips on how to steer clear of imitators.

What Are They?
Per Wikipedia, a counterfeit watch is an illegal copy of an authentic watch bearing the name of its brand and according to estimates by the Swiss Customs Service, there are some 30 to 40 million counterfeit watches put into circulation each year. The profitability of this black market industry is huge and seemingly endless, with one estimate putting the profit margin at $10 per dollar invested, about equal to profits of the illicit drug trade (and well below the profits of legitimate watch makers). This is truly a global business with numerous links to organised crime and a distribution network to die for!

Where Do They Come From?
So who’s making all these fakes? Swiss Customs estimates that 40% of counterfeit watches come from China, but counterfeits are produced elsewhere, even in the USA. You may remember the story from a few years ago now of authorities arresting a Florida woman for operating a counterfeit watch business. Her rented storage unit held almost 2,000 brand-name fake watches, with a total estimated retail value of $8.5 million. This is one of literally thousands of stories just like it and only serves to illustrate how wide-spread this issue has become.

The scary thing though is that in many countries possessing such a watch is not illegal. Even in Switzerland, where somewhat surprisingly, private persons are allowed to keep one counterfeit watch per person at the most, provided they import it personally into Switzerland. The maker and sellers of the replicas are usually in violation of the legal copyrights on the original manufacturer’s copyrights and trademarks, however, this rarely gives the latter much comfort.

What’s Been Done About It?
Why don’t the big brands do something about it I hear you ask? Well the fact is they do, however, with limited to no success. As with any facet of organised crime, tracing the problem back to the source is incredibly difficult, nigh impossible! Further to this, distribution of counterfeit watches is so widely spread now that it is simply pointless trying to address it without international co-operation between the appropriate authorities. This aspect is improving, however, it is a long way of being at the level required.

Another argument often put forth is that anyone who wants a $1,000 to $20,000+ watch and will settle for a $100 fake of it was not a serious buyer. They either would never have bought the real thing, or will toy with the fake and eventually return to their original desire and buy a real one after the brand-name image makes them feel good, but the fake itself disappoints. So while these products do infringe on the name brands, they don’t really hurt sales, therefore manufacturers do not have a financial incentive to aggressively pursue them. They tend to do enough that they can prove in any court cases that do arise that they have enforced their trademarks. But more than that is profitless to them.

There is some merit to this argument, however, consider this: globally, counterfeit watches are estimated to cost the Swiss watch industry more than $600 million per year. The claim that there is no harm done to sales is simply not true, as we all have seen or heard of countless examples where people will settle for a fake for any number of reasons, lack of education, taste, etc.

The Final Word
In my opinion, the big brands need to do more. No so much in pursuing the purveyors of these cheap imitations, but in educating and reminding consumers why they choose (have chosen) to buy a luxury watch in the first place. I’m fairly certain that no one here has bought a luxury watch solely because of the brand name or the way it looked. Consumers demand quality and they need to know they are going to get it. Watchmakers and retailers alike should be aware of this and act accordingly. Too often the significance of this is overlooked and can seriously impede the whole buying experience.

Make sure you tune in tomorrow for Part.2 on avoiding purchasing a fake watch.