Posts Tagged ‘diamonds’
Weird Watch Wednesday: Corum Golden Tourbillon Panoramique Grey Sapphire
Undeniably 2009 has been a very innovative and successful year over at Corum. The brand launched their second in-house movement and a number of novelties, including the very unique Ti-Bridge series. So it is fitting then that one of their latest creations is the focal point for our last Weird Watch Wednesday entry for 2009, a category that celebrates the unusual, the innovative and the downright crazy!
A Clear Work Of Genius
Since 2007 a key characteristic of Corum novelties has been the reinterpretation of transparency. The Ti-Bridge series is an excellent example of this as it has no dial to speak of. Thanks to its clever design when you look through the front of the watch, all you see is the movement, the hour and minutes hands, the bottom plates and the triangle casing clamps.
Well now the brand has stepped up this creativity and craftsmanship to another level again, with the creation of the Golden Tourbillon Panoramique with grey PVD coated sapphire crystals.
First introduced in 2007 this latest incarnation of the Golden Tourbillon Panoramique is deceptively complex. Even at first glance the level of difficulty involved in constructing a piece of this caliber is immediately obvious. However, what makes this timepiece truly special is the fact that the mainplate and the three bridges are made of sapphire crystal, a very delicate and brittle material.
The level of expertise and precision required in the fabrication and shaping of synthetic sapphire crystal is immense and the high probability of breakage during the manufacturing stage makes this an extremely time consuming process. Thus it is important to take this into consideration in order to appreciate the exceptional level of craftsmanship involved in the creation of this watch.
As a result a truly unique visual effect is created by the slightly grey color of the sapphire crystal, which partly reveals the mystery of the conception and accentuates the strength of the timepiece. This stunning piece of aesthetic trickery is almost overpowered, however, by the 309 diamonds set in the white gold Tonneau-shaped case that surrounds the movement.
This is truly a dedication to decadence.
In Full View
The movement is a mechanical hand-wound Corum 382 based upon LaJoux Perret 7951 and features a tourbillion complication. Beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour the timepiece offers an impressive 90 hour power reserve when fully wound. Each movement is assembled and adjusted over a period of three weeks, before being cased up and comprised of 168 individual parts. To ensure the wearer can fully appreciate the mechanical complexity of this piece four sapphire crystal glasses offer the maximum view of this stunning movement.
Given the high-level of complexity involved in the creation of these pieces they are only available in a Limited Edition of 5 pieces.
The Final Word
The Golden Tourbillon Panoramique with grey PVD coated sapphire crystals is indicative of what can be achieved when money is no barrier. Yes it is unusual for a manufacturer to produce a limited run of only 5 watches but at the same time it is very exciting to see that even the bigger brands have not lost sight of the true watchmaking spirit of innovation and creativity. Sure this piece is not practical and the price tag is likely to rival that of a Super Car but that’s not the point. It’s an expression of artistic vision and craftsmanship to the highest degree possible and for that, I say thank you.
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Abingdon Ladies Aviation Watches
It is not often that you see a top quality Pilot’s watch designed specifically for women and when you consider that only about 6% of pilots in the USA are women this is arguably not really that surprising. However, that doesn’t mean it’s right. Fortunately for female pilots the world over last year one of their fellow colleagues stepped up to address this shortcoming and introduced two watches into the market designed specifically for professional female pilots.
The Starting Point?
Abingdon Watches. located in sunny Santa Monica, California was founded by female pilot Chelsea “Juice” Welch after an insightful roundtable dinner conversation between a mix of female pilots and airplane mechanics. The topic of discussion? The lack of good quality aviator watches designed specifically for women.
Not only was it important for the watch to be equipped with all the functionality required by a professional pilot but the watch also needed to display a chic sense of feminine style to differentiate it from the male dominated market.
The outcome is two stunning models: Jackie and Amelia designed to suit the professional female pilot of today. Both watches feature all of the tools a pilot needs, including a Zulu time conversion function, E6B flight computer, chronograph, anti-glare overlay, and luminous hands for visibility in the dark cockpit.
Pictured above on the left: Amelia – with E6B functions, Zulu time conversion and easy to read date window. Finished off with a stainless steel case, super luminous hands and water resistant to 50 metres. Priced from US$250.
On the right: Jackie – with mother of pearl facade, accented with faux diamonds inlaid in a rotating bezel. With chronograph, date, E6B function, super luminous hands and water resistant to 50 metres. Priced from $US400.
The Final Word
Its really good to see that there are watch companies out there that are starting to take notice of professional female consumers in the market. The Abingdon watches may not suit all female pilots but nonetheless its nice to know that at least the option is out there.
Check out more at Abingdon Watches.
The Watch Lounge Speaks With Alon Ben-Joseph, CEO of ACE Jewelers
I was very fortunate this week to be able to chat with Alon Ben-Joseph, the CEO of Amsterdam based Ace Jewelers. Specializing in watches and jewelry from some of the best known brands in the world the company is owned and operated by the Ben-Joseph family and is comprised of three different jewelry stores and an online eBoutique. Alon himself first became active in the family company in 1998 after successfully obtaining his Bachelors degree in New York. He then completed his Masters degree in Business Economics at the University of Amsterdam.
Today he talks to The Watch Lounge about Ace’s sales philosophy, the challenges the company faces and what the future holds.
TWL: Ace Jewelers is well known for being innovative and modern. How do you ensure you keep ahead of the the constantly changing trends in wrist fashion?
ACE: As a self-confessed watch freak and ambassador of watch brands (through our three retail and online eBoutique) I am committed to being on the front line of watch fashion. In order to achieve this we attend all the major watch fairs, read all the leading trade & consumer magazines, read leading blogs such as yours and even visit the brands in Switzerland. Over time we have also forged strong relationships with some of the brands we stock, to the point where we can now even give some input regarding their brand strategy and direction.
As an entrepreneur and advisor to consumers, I want to add value and give our customers what they really want. That’s why ACE puts in so much effort to stay on top of the constantly changing trends in wrist fashion!
TWL: True to its spirit of innovation the company was the first Dutch luxury jeweler in The Netherlands to open an eBoutique and this was largely driven by your efforts. What was your motivation in setting up the online store and what challenges have you faced along the way?
ACE: To put it simply, we truly believe in eCommerce. We launched our first website in 1998, but until last year never offered online purchase possibilities. In 2008 we identified this gap in the market and founded our fourth store: Ace Online. Although we are located in Amsterdam, we service many returning international customers and they literally demanded an eBoutique from us!
It was not easy though at first as all the watch and jewelry brands were opposed to the idea. Despite this we persevered and in 2008 we commenced our etail adventures and we haven’t looked back since. I think we can say that today there is a new wind starting to blow through the land of watches. Slowly but surely one brand after the other is coming to realize that eCommerce is not just a passing trend but rather a very real part of the future of watch retailing.
TWL: Since launching the official eBoutique in 2008 have you experienced an increase in international sales? Do you feel that this has helped grow your presence both in Europe and also the international market?
ACE: We want to emphasize that we are jewelers and our business is all about emotions. It is a common joke within our company that looking should not only be done with your eyes, but also with your hands. You need to touch the piece, see how it looks on you, listen to how it speaks to you. You cannot do this through the internet but that is fine because it was never our intention for Ace Online to replace our stores and this is still the case today. We truly believe they complement and help each other (in our industry – I can image this is not the case for every industry).
In recognition of this, therefore, we have adopted a new strategy, a cross-channel strategy where we have three physical retail stores, website(s) and most importantly a solid back-office that answers phone calls and instant messenger chats immediately, replies to e-mails within 24 hours and supports the sales teams in the stores. All our back office team members are trained in-house and also work in our stores. We don’t outsource anything!
I am very proud to say that we have noticed that this new strategy works very well for us. Not only are able to service our current (international) customers better we also attract many new customers (both nationally and internationally). To show our customers how much we appreciate their custom we send every order free of charge and therefore do not alienate a potential customer simply because of where they live. And, for orders outside the EU, we even send them tax-free!
TWL: The Global Financial Crisis has had a significant negative impact on the luxury watch industry over the past 18 months. How was Ace affected by the global financial crisis and what strategies did you put in place to help the company ride out the economic uncertainty?
ACE: As was to be expected we experienced a downturn in sales, but funnily enough it did not stop the sale of the more unique products we offer. What we have noticed is that many people got a reality check. Stocks, Bonds and Banks are not everything and why store your money at a bank and risk losing it all when you can use it to purchase watches that keep their value (or even go up in value over the course of time) and enjoy them daily in the mean time?!As such, we did not experience the same level of decline we saw other major groups undergo. On top of that our eCommerce activities continually help us create new business opportunities.
Besides, everything that goes up, must come down… And, visa versa. We have been in business for many decades, so this is not the first time we’ve experienced such volatile times and I’m sure it won’t be the last. Everything we do, we do with a long-term view, so we are confident we will become stronger from all of this.
TWL: What are the biggest challenges facing the company going forward? Do you have any plans for further growth within or outside of the Netherlands?
ACE: The biggest challenges are: lack of trained and skilled employees (solution: we run our own state-of-the-art in-house training programs); escalating criminality and violence (solution: our stores are like Fort Knox), Internet (solution: instead of fighting it, we’ve joined it!) and the power of economies of scale (solution: be a business partner for the brands, so they can’t go around you).
TWL: And finally, what watch are you wearing at the moment and why?
ACE: Most important question when interviewing a self-confessed watch freak, I also always want to know when I read an interview about someone else!
Currently I am at work and therefore I am suited up. When I suit up I love to wear one of my all time favorite watches: the IWC Portuguese Rattrapante. I have been in love with this watch since I was a kid and still enjoy it every time I wear it!
To find out more about Ace Jewelers and to check out their online eBoutique log on to Ace Jewelers.
Fighting Fakes: Part Two
In part two of my two-part special on counterfeit watches it is my goal to equip you with some valuable hints and tips on how to steer clear of imitators. Unfortunately the rapid progression in the design and manufacturing capabilities of the black market has meant that identifying a counterfeit watch has become far more difficult. However, there are some steps you can take as a consumer to protect yourself. Read on to learn more.
If you missed Part One you can read it here.
There’s fake and then there’s fake!
I think it’s fair to say that most people who buy a counterfeit watch do so with the knowledge that they are not purchasing the genuine article. However, what many consumers fail to realise is that there are two levels of counterfeit watch. The first is an extremely cheap imitation. The watch carries a luxury name but there’s no effort made to copy details of the real watch. Sellers assume a customer who pays $30 on a street corner must know it’s a fake and therefore must know that they’re not getting a “real bargain” on a $2000 watch.
A higher-quality fake is one designed to closely resemble the real product. It may incorporate real gold, diamonds and leather. It may have a case that bears a legitimate model number, but have other parts that are poor-quality substitutes. Such a watch will sell for hundreds or even thousands of dollars, and an uneducated buyer could take it to be genuine. However, it is of inferior quality, made with questionable parts and workmanship. Tips to avoid this situation:
- Only purchase your watch from an authorized dealer or from a trusted source (if you are purchasing second-hand.)
- Do your research. There is abundant information available on the internet on nearly every make and model of luxury watch. Make sure you know what the watch should be made of, the different dial variations, etc. Very often counterfeit watches of luxury brands will bear the same name and branding but the design will be unlike any the watchmaker has ever released.
- Make sure the watch comes with a valid warranty. Even if you are buying online many re-sellers will offer 1 – 2 year warranties.
- If it’s too good to be true it probably is. If there is a highly limited edition watch going for an unbelievable price chances are it’s probably fake. Again though, do your research. There are genuine bargains to be found online and you don’t want to miss out.
Genuine Fakes
Another emerging trend is the practice of misleadingly representing inexpensive watches as if they were fine luxury timepieces. They are sold under their own brand name, so they are not fakes of another company’s brand. But their products are of modest to staggeringly cheap manufacture and have none of the merits of the fine, expensive brands they allude to. The typical scam on these are a combination of:
- An impressive Swiss, German or European sounding name.
- An impressive “retail price” or “RRP” (recommended retail price).
- Fancy verbiage that sounds like what a luxury watch brand would say.
- Impressive comparisons of features to those of “other” luxury timepieces.
- A special price you can buy it for that is incredibly below the retail price.
The deception here is that claimed retail price is a complete lie. These watches sell regularly at prices that are a trivial fraction–often as much as 70-95% off–of their claimed retail value. How can they sell them so cheap? Simple, they are cheap watches. Ones made to be profitably sold in the lower price range of their actual asking price. Any perception that these luxury impostors are even remotely worth their advertised retail price is nothing more than pure marketing bravado and intentional deception. So be aware of big discounts on seemingly ‘high-end’ brands that you’ve never actually heard of before.
The Final Word
The above is only a microcosm of the information that is available on the internet to help you protect yourself from counterfeiters. However, the onus is on you to do your research and be aware of the potential pitfalls of not buying from an authorized dealer. Having said that, as I mentioned before there are plenty of good bargains out there so arm yourself with as much information as possible and make the judgement call.
Does anyone else have any additional hints and tips or experiences with counterfeit watches that they would like to share with other readers?
Fighting Fakes: Two-Part Special
The global spread of counterfeit watches is an issue that plagues watchmakers, retailers, enthusiasts and everyday consumers alike. Given the sheer magnitude of fakes flooding the markets the best defence available to protect yourself is knowledge. In this two-part special I will explore in detail what constitutes a counterfeit, how its effecting the industry and what’s been done about it. In part two I will provide some valuable hints and tips on how to steer clear of imitators.
What Are They?
Per Wikipedia, a counterfeit watch is an illegal copy of an authentic watch bearing the name of its brand and according to estimates by the Swiss Customs Service, there are some 30 to 40 million counterfeit watches put into circulation each year. The profitability of this black market industry is huge and seemingly endless, with one estimate putting the profit margin at $10 per dollar invested, about equal to profits of the illicit drug trade (and well below the profits of legitimate watch makers). This is truly a global business with numerous links to organised crime and a distribution network to die for!
Where Do They Come From?
So who’s making all these fakes? Swiss Customs estimates that 40% of counterfeit watches come from China, but counterfeits are produced elsewhere, even in the USA. You may remember the story from a few years ago now of authorities arresting a Florida woman for operating a counterfeit watch business. Her rented storage unit held almost 2,000 brand-name fake watches, with a total estimated retail value of $8.5 million. This is one of literally thousands of stories just like it and only serves to illustrate how wide-spread this issue has become.
The scary thing though is that in many countries possessing such a watch is not illegal. Even in Switzerland, where somewhat surprisingly, private persons are allowed to keep one counterfeit watch per person at the most, provided they import it personally into Switzerland. The maker and sellers of the replicas are usually in violation of the legal copyrights on the original manufacturer’s copyrights and trademarks, however, this rarely gives the latter much comfort.
What’s Been Done About It?
Why don’t the big brands do something about it I hear you ask? Well the fact is they do, however, with limited to no success. As with any facet of organised crime, tracing the problem back to the source is incredibly difficult, nigh impossible! Further to this, distribution of counterfeit watches is so widely spread now that it is simply pointless trying to address it without international co-operation between the appropriate authorities. This aspect is improving, however, it is a long way of being at the level required.
Another argument often put forth is that anyone who wants a $1,000 to $20,000+ watch and will settle for a $100 fake of it was not a serious buyer. They either would never have bought the real thing, or will toy with the fake and eventually return to their original desire and buy a real one after the brand-name image makes them feel good, but the fake itself disappoints. So while these products do infringe on the name brands, they don’t really hurt sales, therefore manufacturers do not have a financial incentive to aggressively pursue them. They tend to do enough that they can prove in any court cases that do arise that they have enforced their trademarks. But more than that is profitless to them.
There is some merit to this argument, however, consider this: globally, counterfeit watches are estimated to cost the Swiss watch industry more than $600 million per year. The claim that there is no harm done to sales is simply not true, as we all have seen or heard of countless examples where people will settle for a fake for any number of reasons, lack of education, taste, etc.
The Final Word
In my opinion, the big brands need to do more. No so much in pursuing the purveyors of these cheap imitations, but in educating and reminding consumers why they choose (have chosen) to buy a luxury watch in the first place. I’m fairly certain that no one here has bought a luxury watch solely because of the brand name or the way it looked. Consumers demand quality and they need to know they are going to get it. Watchmakers and retailers alike should be aware of this and act accordingly. Too often the significance of this is overlooked and can seriously impede the whole buying experience.
Make sure you tune in tomorrow for Part.2 on avoiding purchasing a fake watch.
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