Posts Tagged ‘Geneva’
Hublot and Depeche Mode Raise Over $600,000 For Teenage Cancer Trust!
Mr Biver with the members of Depeche Mode – © Hublot
It’s always great to see big companies giving back and no one does it quite like luxury watch manufacturer Hublot. Lead by their charismatic CEO, Jean Claude-Biver, an industry legend in his own right well known for his generosity, the brand teamed up with rock ‘n’ roll superstars Depeche Mode to raise money for teenagers with cancer. And raise money they did, combining their efforts to generate over a staggering US$620,000! What’s even more amazing is that they were able to raise this much money in the space of just a few short months!
Fighting For Good
Back in December 2009 Hublot and Depeche Mode pledged their support to the Teenage Cancer Trust which provides support services to teenagers with cancer in the areas of special care, research, family support and specialized diagnoses. A very worthy cause we are sure you will agree!
In order to maximize the amounts of funds raised, the two partners devised and executed a series of events which would prove to be hugely successful.
First, Hublot announced the creation of twelve exclusive boxes each containing twelve exclusive Big Bangs, designed in conjunction with Depeche Mode, with each one displaying one of the group’s iconic album covers on the dial. As an added touch each box also included vinyl and digital versions of the album, a framed gold CD and signed photos. Amid much fanfare these unique pieces were then sold at a special auction that ran from the 6th to the 24th of February.
The special edition Depeche Mode Big Bangs – © Hublot
It didn’t stop there, however. A charity concert was hosted by the group on the 17th of February at the Royal Albert Hall in London. Fans from all around the globe flocked in to show their support, selling out the concert in just 40 minutes! Following the concert was a VIP reception hosted by Hublot where attendees could purchase raffle tickets for their chance to win a Big Bang Zirconium. Much like the concert tickets, these sold out in minutes.
All in all, this resulted in the two partners raising in excess of $US620,000 for the Teenage Cancer Trust!
Hublot CEO, Jean-Claude Biver, was ecstatic with the outcome saying;
“This joint project has proven to be a tremendous success! The result is amazing and we are so proud to have been part of this historical charity event. Depeche Mode have committed themselves with such enthusiasm to this project! It has been a humbling experience to join them on this journey. They are fans of Hublot and I am proud to associate our brand with their music and for a cause as important as the Teenage Cancer Trust…when you are passionate and successful in what you do, you should share and give to those less fortunate! This is exactly what Depeche Mode has done and I am proud that Hublot could help them achieve this. ”
Jean-Claude Biver signing the cheque for over $US620,000 – © Hublot
The Final Word
What more can be said, this is simply an amazing outcome! Two superstars have come together to combine their unique talents and leverage their global popularity to help raise not only funds but also awareness of those less fortunate or who are dealing with extremely difficult conditions. This is an occasion to be applauded resoundingly and at the same time held up as an example to others.
Hopefully the incredible success Hublot and Depeche Mode have achieved will inspire other luxury manufacturers around the world to take up the fight also, and pool their considerable resources towards making a positive difference in the world.
1 Excellent Comment | Filed under New This Week, Watch News
Une Journée Avec Les Maîtres du Temps
C’est un fait avéré que cette semaine à Genève fut le théâtre d’une foule pressante et d’une bonne part de stress. Manquer un rendez-vous n’est pas envisageable, et c’est donc d’autant plus appréciable que d’avoir l’opportunité de se poser confortablement dans un fauteuil et d’avoir quelqu’un qui vous présente une succession de montres d’exception dans une atmosphère calme et détendue.
C’est donc avec un plaisir non feint que j’ai pris place dans le luxueux hôtel Beau Rivage, sis au centre de Genève, à proximité du lac.
Maitres du Temps
Comme vous le savez probablement, nous sommes ici de grands admirateurs des Maitres du Temps, et saisissons toute opportunité de passer du temps avec cet Atelier très en vue. Si vous avez manqué notre édition spéciale sur cette marque unique, rendez-vous ici !
Fruit de la collaboration des plus grands maîtres horlogers de ce monde, Maîtres de Temps s’est donné pour mission de développer de nouveaux concepts et de les mettre en œuvre dans de nouvelles solutions de manière harmonieuse. Chaque montre fait l’objet d’un « Chapitre » dédié au sein d’une même histoire, et tandis qu’il y a des éléments communs, il persiste des différences significatives entre la « Chapitre Un » et la « Chapitre Deux ».
Les projets eux-mêmes sont totalement innovants dans la manière dont les montres sont créées. Traditionnellement, le mouvement est crée, puis son boîtier est assemblé autour. C’est du bon sens commercial, car cela permet de créer une grande variété de styles différents sur la base du même mouvement, et de ventiler les coûts de développement sur une gamme complète.
Toutefois, cela conduit nécessairement à des compromis tant esthétiques que fonctionnels, ce qui n’était pas acceptable pour les Maîtres du Temps. Ainsi, suivant leur optique, le mouvement et le design sont conjointement élaborés, de sorte qu’aucune fonction ni aucun effet de style ne pâtisse d’un élément sur l’autre.
Chapitre 1
Produite en 2008 grâce au mariage des talents de Christophe Claret et de Peter Speake-Marin, la « Chapitre 1 » est une montre de haut vol. La première chose que l’on remarque est le poids considérable du boitier. Une manière de s’en départir est de préférer la version titane plutôt que la version en or rose ou blanc. C’est ainsi beaucoup plus léger, et vous pourrez penser à la difficulté d’expliquer une finition miroir sur du titane !
Au poignet, le boîtier légèrement incurvé la rend très confortable, malgré le poids des versions or. Le boîtier est haut, mais les bords sont biseautés de telle manière qu’un bord de manche ne pourra pas s’y prendre.
La « Chapitre 1 » est une collection unique de complications : chronographe à un seul poussoir, tourbillon, indicateur de phases de jour et de nuit, rétro GMT et date. Le plus délicat fut de rendre l’ensemble lisible ; et c’est ici un succès garanti lorsque l’on la compare à d’autres chronographes à multiples complications.
Les rouleaux d’indicateurs de phases de jour et de lune sont, de prime abord, d’un joli rendu, mais ils sont surtout d’une rare complexité. La phase de lune est en réalité un rouleau avec une lune blanche imprimée, qui se développe au sein d’un manchon bleu statique – je ne peux imaginer combien le calcul de tolérance a dû être complexe.
Le rouleau d’indicateur semble plus simple – simplement le jour de la semaine imprimé dessus, non ? En fait, non : il faut d’abord que le rouleau se déplace horizontalement à 90° pour transmettre l’énergie aux rouleaux, avec tout ce que cela comporte de frictions de pièces et d’énergie requise.
Par ailleurs, les rouleaux ne basculent pas automatiquement à minuit. Le changement s’étale sur 30 mn, entre 23h40 et 00h10. C’est un peu comme si un compromis se mettait en place dans le mécanisme, et ce mouvement a dû lui aussi requérir d’interminables sessions de travail.
Et alors que l’on pensait avoir tout vu, il y en a encore ! La cerise sur le gâteau provient de la forme de la boîte de présentation en chêne d’Amériques, au sein de laquelle est livrée la montre, ainsi que la magnifique mallette en cuir qui contient cette boîte. Lorsque j’ai vu tout cela, je me suis approché de ma carte de crédit – qui requiert aussi le dépôt d’une caution pour s’offrir au finale cette fabuleuse montre, boîte et mallette, non ? (J’espère que ma femme ne lit pas ça !).
Chapitre 2
Le modèle le plus récent des Maitres du Temps, “Chapitre 2″, possède un coffrage de même type que la « Chapitre 1 », mais qui en réalité s’avère être assez différent. Nos deux collaborateurs sont cette fois Peter Speake-Marin et Daniel Roth, qui avaient pour exigence de fabriquer la montre de poignet à triple calendrier la plus lisible du marché. Le pari est si bien réussi que l’on peut lire l’heure sur la montre d’une personne située à l’autre bout de la pièce.
La « Chapitre 2 » ne reprend pas le tourbillon, mais gagne un mouvement automatique et conserve les deux rouleaux (cette fois avec jour et mois). Elle possède de fines, brillantes aiguilles en or ciselé, de petites secondes ainsi qu’un large guichet de date à deux disques, situé à midi, qui complète parfaitement l’ensemble. Sans jeu de mots aucun, voilà qui me parle.
Plus légère que la « Chapitre 1 », elle semble davantage destinée au port quotidien. Le mouvement automatique est donné pour 40h d’autonomie, mais en réalité il est légèrement plus performant, en raison de la qualité d’assemblage et des tolérances utilisées.
Comme avec la plupart de ces montres haut-de-gamme, ce sont les petites touches qui les rendent exceptionnelles. La spirale en or 22-carats est gravée d’un superbe panier guilloche, en rien comparable à tout ce que l’on a pu voir précédemment.
C’est le fruit du travail d’un graveur à la retraite, connaissance de Daniel Roth, qui a réussi à le convaincre d’une aide de dernière minute, seulement trois jours avant qu’il ne faille évacuer ses outils de travail. Tout est dans le timing !
A l’instar de la « Chapitre 1 », cette montre possède deux rouleaux, mais c’est ici le seul point commun. Les rouleaux et la date sont à présent instantanés, ce qui signifie que la montre doit avoir emmagasiné suffisamment d’énergie dans la journée pour mouvoir toutes ces fonctions en même temps – un rendez-vous nocturne, en quelque sorte.
Pourtant, alors même que ce défi est levé, les rouleaux continuent d’être problématiques. Ainsi, plutôt que de choisir une surface gravée trop légèrement, le jour et le mois sont gravés en profondeur puis emplis de blanc, ce qui est, d’autant que je connaisse bien le sujet, une opération très délicate.
En conclusion
Par dessus tout, j’ai longtemps cherché à obtenir ce rendez-vous avec les Maîtres du Temps, et je ne pas été déçu. Une telle collaboration pourrait supposer certains conflits et compromis, conduisant à un résultat décevant. Mais ici, tout au contraire, quel que soit le problème qui a surgi durant la conception, il a conduit à une solution encore meilleure. Les défis techniques ont dût être, à n’en pas douter, d’une extrême difficulté, mais les montres arborent au final un design cohérent, un fonctionnement harmonieux, et sont dotées d’une présentation incroyable.
Si vous avez établi une liste des montres de vos rêves, celles-ci devraient en faire parti.
Traduit de l’anglais par Olivier Muller – olivier@thewatchlounge.com
An Afternoon With Maitres Du Temps
It’s true that this week in Geneva is a huge rush and comes with its fair share of stress. Missing an appointment isn’t an option, so it is nice when the opportunity comes along to sit in a nice comfy chair and have someone show you a series of fantastic watches in a quiet and relaxed atmosphere.
So it is with high anticipation that I take my seat in the very swanky Beau Rivage hotel, which is situated in the centre of Geneva next to the lake.
Maitres du Temps
As you would no doubt be aware, we are very big fans of Maitres du Temps and look forward to every opportunity we get to interact with this highly regarded Atelier. If you missed our in-depth special on this unique brand make sure you read it here!
Resulting from the collaboration of some of the greatest watchmakers alive, Maitres du Temps is tasked with bringing together their ideas and fusing them into a seamless solution. Each watch is expressed as a separate “Chapter” in an on-going story and while there are common elements, significant differences exist between the available “Chapter One” and “Chapter Two”.
The projects themselves were also ground-breaking in the manner in which the watches were created. Traditionally the movement is created and then the watch case is fitted around it; this makes great commercial sense because it means you can create a range of case styles that use the same movement and spread the development cost across the whole range.
However, this inevitably leads to design and functional compromises being made, which was not something that was to be contemplated by the “Maitres du Temps”. Instead the movement and case were designed in tandem so that neither form nor function suffers at the hand of the other.
Chapter 1
Released in 2008 combining the skills of Christophe Claret and Peter Speake-Marin, the Chapter 1 is a very serious watch. The first thing that strikes you is the considerable weight of the case. The way to get around this is to choose the titanium version rather than the white or rose gold. It is much lighter – and think of the fun you’ll have explaining how difficult it is to put a mirror finish on titanium.
On the wrist, the slightly curved case makes it extremely comfortable, despite the weight of the gold versions. The case is high, but the sculptured sides means that a shirt cuff is unlikely to catch on the side and become annoying.
The Chapter 1 is a unique collection of complications: mono pusher chronograph, tourbillon, day and moon phase rollers, retrograde GMT and retrograde date. The challenge is to make all of this functionality readable; it certainly has to be considered a success in this area, especially when contrasted with other multi-complication chronographs.
The moon phase and day rollers are at first sight a nice touch but they are also much more complex. The moon phase is in fact a roller with the white moon element applied to it, which revolves inside a blue static sleeve – I can’t imagine how complex the tolerances are to build them.
The day roller is easy, right – that’s just the day of the week printed on a roller? Well no, actually: first you have to move the horizontal movement of a watch movement through 90 degrees to power the rollers with all the attendant friction and power expense that that entails.
Also, the rollers do not instantaneously switch at midnight; in fact the change takes about 30 minutes from 23:40 until 00:10. It all looks as if there’s a bit of a compromise going on somewhere – there must have been some very long and complicated meetings to work that out.
Just when you think you have seen it all, however, there is still more! The icing on the cake comes in the form of the blond American Oak wood presentation box in which the watch comes, and the magnificent leather briefcase that the box is stored in. When I saw these I started reaching for my credit card – who needs the deposit on a house when you can have a fabulous watch, box and briefcase? (I hope my wife doesn’t read this!)
Chapter 2
The most recent model from Maitres du Temps, “Chapter 2″, has a similar tonneau case to “Chapter 1″ but actually is very different. The collaborators this time round are Peter Speake-Marin and Daniel Roth, who were aiming to produce the most readable triple calendar wristwatch on the market. It is said that it is so clear that you can tell the time on someone else’s watch from across the room.
The “Chapter 2″ does away with the tourbillon but gains an automatic movement and retains the two rollers (now with day and month). It has bright, diamond cut, solid gold hands, small seconds and a two-disc big date indicator at the 12 o’clock position, which finishes off the watch very nicely. Now this really speaks (no pun intended) to me.
Lighter than the “Chapter 1″, this seems more like an everyday watch and a little bit more wearable. The automatic movement is rated at 40 hours, but in reality lasts a bit longer than that a result of the quality and engineering tolerances used.
As with many high-end watches, it is the little touches that really set it apart. The 22K solid-gold winding rotor has a beautiful basket weave pattern (panier guilloche) engraved upon it, and is unlike anything I have seen before.
It turns out that this is the result of using the skills of a retired master engraver known to Daniel Roth, who was persuaded to help them out only three days before he was due to dispose of all his tools. Talk about good timing.
Like the “Chapter 1″, this watch has two rollers, but the similarities end there. The rollers and big date are now instantaneous, so now the watch has to store enough energy during the day to move all of the date functions at the same time – sounds like more late-night meetings.
Even when this issue was resolved though, the rollers continued to challenge the makers. So rather than opting for cheaper surface printing, the day and month lettering is deeply engraved and then in-filled with white in what, I am reliably informed, is a very difficult process.
The Final Word
Overall I had been looking forward to this meeting with Maitres du Temps for some time and I was not disappointed. Collaborations run the inherent risk of conflict and compromise, leading to a potentially disappointing outcome. It is a testament to those involved that whatever issues came up during the design phases have only enhanced the end result. The technical problems faced were, I am sure, considerable, but the watches have coherent designs, operate smoothly and look incredible.
If you are compiling a dream watch collection these should be on the list.
SIHH 2010: A Day In Review
New Release: IWC Portugese Yacht Club Chronograph
Back at SIHH 2010 again today and looking forward to the many exciting discoveries that still await. It promises to be a rewarding day and so without any further delay, let’s get into it! First up is the classically understated International Watch Company.
IWC
This year’s theme – there’s a different one every year – is Sea Navigation. The presentation room is decorated as a seascape, with an evening sky as the stars come out. Regrettably the seats are uncomfortable textured plastic and the room is too small for the number of Press that has turned up. This seems to be a recurring theme this week.
The presentation is focused on the “Portuguese” range and the new models that complement those already released. I think the most successful model is the Yacht Club Chronograph. The contrast between the black face and the red sweep seconds is excellent and even better “in the flesh”. It’s best to steer clear of the rose gold version though, as in my opinion the mixture of colors doesn’t really work – go for the white gold version.
My favorite though is the Portuguese Minute Repeater. Originally released in 2009,it has had a bit of a facelift: at 44mm it is slightly bigger, and the small seconds has moved to the 6 o’clock position, but it retains what I think is the nicest chime of any repeater made today. With the silver dial, this time I would go with the rose gold version over the platinum.
Pure Elegance: IWC Portuguese Minute Repeater
Both watches are limited to 500 pieces in each metal. After a couple of lean years for IWC models these additions are a welcome return to form.
Piaget
Piaget made headlines late last year when the company rented the most expensive real estate in the UK, taking part of the existing Bulgari store at 169 New Bond Street.
It seemed like it was about time to check them out.
Of course Piaget is rightly famous for its jewelry, but the big focus of the presentation was its Altiplano Automatic ultra-thin watches.
Absolute Refinement: The Piaget Altiplano Automatic
The dial is aggressively plain, with baton markers for the numbers – two batons at the quarters and single batons for the rest – with small seconds at the 5 o’clock position. But it is the movement that is astounding: the new Piaget Calibre 1208P is only 2.35mm thick, with the automatic micro-rotor on board the movement in 22K gold.
The case is scarcely much thicker at 5.25mm, but it does have a sizeable 43mm diameter, so although it’s based on a 1960s design it has a very modern appearance.
This looks destined to become a classic.
Van-Cleef and Arpels
A presentation from VC&A is not everybody’s idea of fun, but personally it is one of my favorite appointments of the week. Being male and middle-aged I doubt that I am their target audience, unless I am looking to buy a present for my wife!
The Charms range is a little bit smaller this year, but that’s pretty much the only difference. The enamel dials with butterfly motifs and a special series showing California landscapes are fantastic pieces of work, but they weren’t the stars of the show.
The really fantastic model is “Le Pont des Amoureux”; it evokes a late-night meeting between two lovers on a bridge in Paris. The lovers are seen in silhouette, crafted in white enamel against a dark blue ground. They start at opposite ends of the bridge, the lady on the left with her umbrella indicating the hours and the gentleman on the right the minutes.
Using a Jaeger La Coultre retrograde movement the lovers gradually move towards each other until they meet at midnight.
Poetic Complications: Van Cleef & Arpels Pon des Amoureux
This is an exquisite piece of workmanship and absolutely beautiful – one of these for my wife’s birthday would certainly make her very happy.
The Final Word
While the remnants of the economic crisis remain, the outlook at this year’s SIHH was a much more positive, prices remain competitive and ranges more moderate than ultra-high end. SIHH remains a well run, well attended and interesting exhibition, roll on next year, but first, Basel!
Weird Watch Wednesday: The Greubel Forsey Effect (Live From SIHH 2010)
Tourbillon 24 Secondes in platinum with gold dial – Image courtesy of Greubel Forsey
Perhaps the hottest ticket in town this year at SIHH 2010 is an interview with Stephen Forsey. The co-founder of Greubel Forsey is a busy man and its not hard to see why when you look at the mind blowing pieces his company has created. But early on Tuesday morning I was able to spend a short time with him to talk about the latest products and look back over the last few hectic years.
While it has been my pleasure to interview only a relatively small number of independent watchmakers, they appear to have a number of common traits and Stephen does certainly seem to fit the mould. Without exception they are driven individuals, which is not surprising when you think about the amount of work and dedication it takes to make and launch your own watch.
This drive is allied to a passion for doing what they do, which understandably to some may appear almost like an obsession, however, manufacturers such as this one cannot be dismissed merely as a business. It involves so much more than just that.
Built On A Solid Foundation
Stephen has an engineering background and following a stint at the Hackney School of Horology in the late 1980s, he started out with the modest ambition of creating a few clocks that people might buy to order and make him a little bit of money. But this was the 1980s: the industry was in crises and quartz movements heralded the prospect of the demise of the mechanical watch-making business, so like many graduate watchmakers he hunkered down in someone else’s company. For Stephen this was Asprey’s in London.
The 1990s saw the return of interest in the mechanical watch, and the layoffs of the 1980s had left the Swiss watch industry with a problem – a lack of talented watchmakers. These companies scored the globe looking for talent to fill their ateliers; when Stephen landed at Renaud et Papi there were 15 different nationalities working there, and watch making was no longer a preserve of the Swiss.
In retrospect the remarkable thing about the members of this group at Renaud et Papi was what they did next. At the end of the 1990s the group began to disperse; with a common purpose, Stephen Forsey and Robert Greubel decided their future lay in creating the watches they wanted to make together. They believed that contrary to the thoughts of some other makers, not everything had been done and that innovation should be their focus.
Tourbillon 24 Secondes in platinum with black dial – Image © Ian Skellern 2010
Talking Shop
Gruebel Forsey is attending SIHH for the first time thanks in part to a 20 per cent investment by Richemont, which has also enabled Greubel Forsey to expand its workforce to nearly 100 spread over Greubel Forsey and its sister company CompliTime.
Stephen was kind enough to spend some time showing me his latest watches and, as I said yesterday, the quality is stunning and photos don’t do them justice, no matter how good they are.
Our discussions turned to how this quality is achieved and by way of an example Stephen explained how all of the screws used in his watches are made in-house. This means that the screws are made by a dedicated artisan, who is able to ensure that they are completely clean, all swarf is removed and there are no chemical residues to spoil the blueing process.
If the company is willing to go to these lengths for the screws, just imagine what it will do for the rest of the watch.
The Final Word
With the company continuing to grow and some excellent people coming on board, it looks like Stephen will be able to step back a bit from the endless rounds of PR and focus on the development of new technologies.
In my humble I think we have a lot more to look forward to from Greubel Forsey over the coming years. Now isn’t that an exciting thought!
Tourbillon 24 Secondes in platinum with black dial – Image © Ian Skellern 2010
Spec Sheet:
And just to really get your motors running, here are the specifications of the amazing Tourbillon 24 Secondes shown above:
Platinum case with lateral window, available in either a black or gold dial
Tourbillon 24 Secondes
Mechanical hand-wound movement, Calibre GF 01
Tourbillon 24 Secondes, 24-second Tourbillon rotation indicator, seconds indicator and power-reserve indicator.
Patented Movement
• Complete movement: 280 parts
• Tourbillon cage: 88 parts
• Weight of the cage: 0.39 g
Number of jewels 36
Olive-domed jewels in gold chatons
Power reserve 72 hours
Barrels Rapid rotating twin barrels (1 Turn in 3.2 hours) one of which equipped with a slipping spring so as to avoid excess tension
Balance wheel Free sprung balance with white gold mean-time screws (10 mm diameter)
Frequency 21’600 vibrations/hour
Balance spring
• Phillips terminal curve
• Geneva-style stud
Main Plates Spotted and snailed palladium-finished nickel silver
Bridges
• Hand bevelled, frosted and spotted palladium-finished nickel silver “Greubel Forsey” gold nameplate,
relief-engraved gold plate with the number of the timepiece
• Steel black mirror-polished and beveled Tourbillon bridge
• Black PVD-coated titanium platform under the Tourbillon and mirror-polished backdrop Gearing
• Involute circle profile
• Tangential inclined gear with profiled teeth, on fixed wheel and escape wheel pinion Tourbillon cage
• Inclined at a 25° angle, 24-second rotation
• Cage pillars in Avional
• Titanium cage bridges
• Gold counterweight
Displays
• Hours and minutes
• Small second sector
• 72-hour power reserve on a sector
• 24-second Tourbillon rotation indicator at 8 o’clock
Case
• Platinum with asymmetrical convex sapphire crystal
• Transparent back with asymmetrical convex sapphire crystal
• Lateral window with shaped sapphire crystal
• Raised engraving of the name of the Invention on a hand-punched background
• Gold security screws
• Polished bezel and centre band with hand-finished straight graining
• Hand-engraved individual number
Case dimensions
• Diameter: 43.5 mm
• Thickness: 16.11 mm
Water resistance of the case 3 atm – 30 m – 100 ft
Crown Platinum with engraved and black lacquered GF logo
Dial
• Gold dials
• Gold appliques
• Gold display sectors
• Applied gold logo
Hands
• Hours and minutes with Superluminova, small seconds and power-reserve in gold
• 24-second double-tipped hand, black anodised aluminium
Strap Hand-sewn black, brown and dark blue, alligator leather with gold folding clasp, hand-embossed with the Greubel Forsey initials
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